UKC

The late Wolfgang Gullich was truly a visionary climber. Repeats of his route, Action Direct, the world's first 9a sport route, are still newsworthy 15 years after Gullich's first ascent and still have not reached double figures.

Read more:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Rich Simpson on Action Direct,

"I believe the reason Action is still considered so hard is mostly due to the fact that, in this specific type of climbing, accompanied with years of hard work and preparation Wolfgang was substantially ahead of his time when climbing Action in 1990. So much so that climbers have only just begun to catch up and supersede Wolfgang's colossal effort.

Yes, in many styles, and general climbing ability Wolfgang was seen as a lesser to the likes of Moon, Moffatt and JB Tribout. But in this incredibly specific style, pulling hard on one fingered pockets with bad feet and simple sequences, Wolfgang quite simply shone beyond belief, and whilst shining, he found a climb that was made for him and suited his somewhat freakish ability perfectly. Albeit with a colossal amount of training and effort, he succeeded in a climb that was arguably 10 years ahead of time.

This theory, I believe was only recently proven when Action began to receive a significant amount of ascents from a variety of 'the pack' and in doing so was considered to be beneath the current cutting edge in difficulty. Action was climbed in 1990? And it wasn't until 2005 that it began to be a mere test piece rather than something right at the cutting edge. "

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6224.40.html

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Having perused the article this morning on Freakclimbing - one thing that sticks out from Kilian Fischhuber's interview;

'It is funny, so many people ask about the sequence. In fact, there are many possible ways. I once read that Wolfgang's way is not repeated and may never be. I am sure that the original way is possible too but why make it harder?

So Wolfgang leads even further because others such as Rich had to unlock the sequence in a different manner.

Top bloke (even if he was in Cliffhanger!) and is missed.

In reply to Glyn Jones:
From the Simpson interview on Freakclimbing:
Yes my sequence was the most "direct", I am the only person to have climbed the Wolfgang's sequence, it now seems that people got to the right in the middle: it is more moves but easier. For me I wanted to climb it the Wolfgang's way in the middle, it was very powerful and direct and probably harder, but for me it's better, it has history.

In reply to jon bassindale: Most 'direct' as in not the same as Wolfgangs?

If there are other ways of completing the route then it's still good because it's now getting traffic!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
sounds like there could be a new test-piece round the corner

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/frankenjura06/

In reply to vscott:

Yes, looks like it.

Just for the record, I believe the sequence i used on Action Directe was the same as Wolfgangs. Unless of course Glyn knows better.

In reply to Glyn Jones: what the f*ck do you know.. unless you've been on it, you can't possibly comment.

In reply to R Simpson: Sorry if I got it wrong, just going off the Kilian Fischhuber's comments and the other was a question. I wrote Most 'direct' as in not the same as Wolfgangs? asking for clarification. Thanks for correcting me.

In reply to cidersoak: I won't bother to reply to your comment

In reply to cidersoak:

Settle down now....deep breathes and some mint tea. Rich has spoken.

No problem. I also just read Kilians comments, and can see why you came to that assumption. But is dosent particuarly matter either way.

Cheers Rich

In reply to R Simpson: Top marks anyway Rich.