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Condolences to his Wife and Family...he will be missed. Cheers to a life well led!
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=270833&f=0&b...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=270833&f=0&b...
In reply to dtripp: From rockandice:
Tuesday 24th October, 2006 Posted By: Admin
Free-climbing pioneer Todd Skinner was killed yesterday, October 23, while descending fixed ropes on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. Details of the accident are incomplete, but it appears that he and his partner Jim Hewitt were working on a free route on the 1,200-foot monolith.
Skinner, with some 300 ascents, mostly all-free, in 26 countries, was arguably the most accomplished rock climber of the generation that marked the birth of sport climbing. Most notably, he was the first to free El Cap, via the Salathe Wall (VI 5.13b), with his longtime partner, Paul Piana, in 1988. Although their ascent marked El Cap’s first free climb (Lynn Hill wouldn’t free the Nose until 1994) it was controversial at the time because the duo applied sport and siege tactics to what was then considered a traditional wall. Skinner was also the first to free Half Dome's Direct Northwest Face, and helped put Hueco Tanks on the map, with his numerous hard free ascents including When Legends Die (5.13b), at the time one of America's hardest sport routes.
Today, Skinner is heralded as a pioneer for showing climbers worldwide the free potential of big walls, and how strength and determination can overcome adversity.
Information on the accident will follow as we receive it, but Skinner and his partner, Jim Hewitt, were descending the route Jesus Built My Hot Rod, and were several hundred feet above the base when the accident occurred. Allegedly, Skinner went first, and suddenly fell; his rappel device and locking carabiner remained on the rope.
Skinner, of Lander, Wyoming, is survived by his wife Amy, son Jake, and daughters Hannah and Sarah.
A memorial will be held this Saturday at the Sinks Canyon Center, in Sinks Canyon, at 3 p.m. All climbers are welcome, as they always have been in Todd and Amy's home.
Tuesday 24th October, 2006 Posted By: Admin
Free-climbing pioneer Todd Skinner was killed yesterday, October 23, while descending fixed ropes on the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. Details of the accident are incomplete, but it appears that he and his partner Jim Hewitt were working on a free route on the 1,200-foot monolith.
Skinner, with some 300 ascents, mostly all-free, in 26 countries, was arguably the most accomplished rock climber of the generation that marked the birth of sport climbing. Most notably, he was the first to free El Cap, via the Salathe Wall (VI 5.13b), with his longtime partner, Paul Piana, in 1988. Although their ascent marked El Cap’s first free climb (Lynn Hill wouldn’t free the Nose until 1994) it was controversial at the time because the duo applied sport and siege tactics to what was then considered a traditional wall. Skinner was also the first to free Half Dome's Direct Northwest Face, and helped put Hueco Tanks on the map, with his numerous hard free ascents including When Legends Die (5.13b), at the time one of America's hardest sport routes.
Today, Skinner is heralded as a pioneer for showing climbers worldwide the free potential of big walls, and how strength and determination can overcome adversity.
Information on the accident will follow as we receive it, but Skinner and his partner, Jim Hewitt, were descending the route Jesus Built My Hot Rod, and were several hundred feet above the base when the accident occurred. Allegedly, Skinner went first, and suddenly fell; his rappel device and locking carabiner remained on the rope.
Skinner, of Lander, Wyoming, is survived by his wife Amy, son Jake, and daughters Hannah and Sarah.
A memorial will be held this Saturday at the Sinks Canyon Center, in Sinks Canyon, at 3 p.m. All climbers are welcome, as they always have been in Todd and Amy's home.
In reply to hillman:
Cheers hillman for sourcing that.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
If you don't know much about Todd, or even if you do...
http://www.toddskinner.com/
"Why was Skinner carrying a waffle iron, two croquet balls and a years supply of prophylatics?"
From 'On The Edge' number five, Craig Smith describing Todd Skinners tactics to wind up the notorious Ranger Bob at Hueco Tanks, Texas
Cheers hillman for sourcing that.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
If you don't know much about Todd, or even if you do...
http://www.toddskinner.com/
"Why was Skinner carrying a waffle iron, two croquet balls and a years supply of prophylatics?"
From 'On The Edge' number five, Craig Smith describing Todd Skinners tactics to wind up the notorious Ranger Bob at Hueco Tanks, Texas
In reply to dtripp:
Sympathies to all who knew him - certainly an inspiration to me and mates. He led the way and will be missed.
Sympathies to all who knew him - certainly an inspiration to me and mates. He led the way and will be missed.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Todd, silly bugger. Remembering those El Paso days. You will be missed. Deeply sorry to Amy and your kids.
Paul Pritch.
Todd, silly bugger. Remembering those El Paso days. You will be missed. Deeply sorry to Amy and your kids.
Paul Pritch.
In reply to dtripp: Sad sad news indeed!
Yeah another sad day.... we hung out with him a bit in the Valley in 1988 when they were working on the Salathe.
From all the kiwis who knew him then....you had a great life and were quite inspiational
From all the kiwis who knew him then....you had a great life and were quite inspiational
In reply :
That's shocking news. Met Todd once and thought he was a nice bloke and judging by his feats, an inspration. My sympathies to his family and friends.
That's shocking news. Met Todd once and thought he was a nice bloke and judging by his feats, an inspration. My sympathies to his family and friends.
In reply to David Simmonite: Tragic, condolences to Amy and all his family and friends, as all these things are, a sad loss to the climbing community (do we have one, I think we do).
All climbing accidents are sad, as are most deaths, but when it is someone as significant to us as Todd it is particularly poingnant to many.
All climbing accidents are sad, as are most deaths, but when it is someone as significant to us as Todd it is particularly poingnant to many.
In reply to Al Evans:
Sad to hear, another experienced climber making a simple mistake and getting killed.
Sad to hear, another experienced climber making a simple mistake and getting killed.
In reply to jkarran:
Reading about his and Piana's free ascent of El Cap in a coffee table book many years ago was one of the first times I remember getting psyched about climbing from a book. That picture of them lying on the ledge looking so relaxed...
A very sad day.
MattH
Reading about his and Piana's free ascent of El Cap in a coffee table book many years ago was one of the first times I remember getting psyched about climbing from a book. That picture of them lying on the ledge looking so relaxed...
A very sad day.
MattH
In reply to MattH: I remember going to a lecture by Paul Piana after their first free ascent of the Salathe Wall. He told the story of how when they finally reached the top they decided to throw away all their uneaten foodstuff in celebration. A climber 3000 feet below was struck on the shoulder by a carrot, and turned up in the local bar that evening angrily searching for the person that had thrown it.
For all the flawed ethics, Free Salathe was truly groundbreaking and pointed the way to what has been an explosion in free-climbing standards on big walls. Todd could not have left a finer memorial.
Jeez. I can't believe that one of my earliest inspirations has passed on.
Very sad day for his family, friends, and climbing world.
May his memory live on though his achievements.
Very sad day for his family, friends, and climbing world.
May his memory live on though his achievements.
Super sad news.
I climbed with Todd alot in the mid '80's. He was such a great person to hang out with and to climb with. He taught me so much about climbing and life in general.
Even though I'd not seen him for years, he was never far from my thoughts. He was ahead of the times there is no doubt. A true visionary.
RIP
Craig
I climbed with Todd alot in the mid '80's. He was such a great person to hang out with and to climb with. He taught me so much about climbing and life in general.
Even though I'd not seen him for years, he was never far from my thoughts. He was ahead of the times there is no doubt. A true visionary.
RIP
Craig
In reply to dtripp: Had the very good fortune to travel and climb with Todd in the late eighties . Todd was the most up beat enthusiastic and straightforward partner you could wish for . Have an abundance of fond memories particularly long days in Eldorado Canyon and the infamous quancet hut at Hueco . Also was made very welcome at his parents ranch in Wyoming where we made up for months of undernourishment by dining on giant elk steaks ! A great character he will be sorely missed by many .
In reply to sutty:
Eh? Do we know anything about the accident yet, other than it happened while he was descending? Let's wait and see before we suggest he made a 'simple mistake'.
Eh? Do we know anything about the accident yet, other than it happened while he was descending? Let's wait and see before we suggest he made a 'simple mistake'.
In reply to Dom Orsler: I think the comment stems from the belay device and Krab still being on the rope..
In reply to IainRUK:
Hmm. I suppose so, but I thought it might, perhaps, be a little premature.
Poor wife and kids.
Hmm. I suppose so, but I thought it might, perhaps, be a little premature.
Poor wife and kids.
In reply to Dom Orsler:
I think another thread for the reason why, that is the reason I said no more.
I think another thread for the reason why, that is the reason I said no more.
In reply to sutty: You introduced the subject of why, not me. Yes - do it on another thread, I think.
I was really saddened to hear the news earlier on today. My thoughts go out to Amy and the kids.
I had the great priviledge to know and climb with Todd during the early to mid-90's, at Lander and at Hueco, and contributed to making this one of the best periods in my life.
Todd always had a word of encouragement for anyone struggling,and would often demonstrate umpteen different theories on ways to do a problem, not all of them useful. Todd used to get as much pleasure out of helping someone else achieve their goals (climbing or otherwise) as he did in his own achievements, something very rare in climbing.
Out of all the people I have climbed with, Todd was the most influential, and gave me my direction. He was a larger than life character, and for me as a Brit, exciting to be with.
Thanks for the memories
Good on you, Todd.
I had the great priviledge to know and climb with Todd during the early to mid-90's, at Lander and at Hueco, and contributed to making this one of the best periods in my life.
Todd always had a word of encouragement for anyone struggling,and would often demonstrate umpteen different theories on ways to do a problem, not all of them useful. Todd used to get as much pleasure out of helping someone else achieve their goals (climbing or otherwise) as he did in his own achievements, something very rare in climbing.
Out of all the people I have climbed with, Todd was the most influential, and gave me my direction. He was a larger than life character, and for me as a Brit, exciting to be with.
Thanks for the memories
Good on you, Todd.
In reply to dtripp: Article in the Times today. Says his harness may have broken. Surely not?
In reply to Richard Bradley:
The San Fransisco Chronicle reports that his belay loop broke.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2006/10/26/CLIMBER.TMP
Another sad, sad abseiling accident. My thoughts go to people who knew and loved him. He was an influence and inspiration for so many.
The San Fransisco Chronicle reports that his belay loop broke.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2006/10/26/CLIMBER.TMP
Another sad, sad abseiling accident. My thoughts go to people who knew and loved him. He was an influence and inspiration for so many.
In reply to duncan:
"It's really affecting the climbing community because harness failure is pretty unusual -- it is not supposed to happen," said Ken Yager, president and founder of Yosemite Climbing Association. "It's gotten people thinking about their old harnesses now. I know I'm going to go out and buy a new one."
that certainly does give pause for thought....
"It's really affecting the climbing community because harness failure is pretty unusual -- it is not supposed to happen," said Ken Yager, president and founder of Yosemite Climbing Association. "It's gotten people thinking about their old harnesses now. I know I'm going to go out and buy a new one."
that certainly does give pause for thought....
In reply to Enoch Root: Yep.
In reply to Enoch Root: Sounds pretty off, but when I read the article my first thought was 'I hope the harness was old/battered'. I think it would seriously affect my/and other peoples trust in harnesses if a new/seemingly good harness, just snapped. Hopefully new harnesses don't just break.
I've just bought a new one recently too.
I've just bought a new one recently too.
In reply to dtripp: A very sad loss. Todd was a great guy and climber. I was fortunate to climb with him in the 80's. My hero. My thoughts go to all his friends and family. I cannot say enough words. The world is a sadder place without Todd. He is one of the legends.
Mark Leach
Mark Leach
went to have a look at his website but all of the pictures from the website are down . Maybe to stop peaple seeeing which harnesses he was wearing in the pics
In reply to winter_burn:
Thought I'd post some stories, there's lots of them from the Supertopo website:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=270833&tn=0&...
It's a long thread.
Author:
Bob Palais
Trad climber
From: UT I got an email this morning from John Ackerly, and this was some of my reply, with some editing and addenda:
---------------------
Hi John,
God I hate emails whose subject lines are a friend's name.
I first met him when he was the caretaker at the quonset hut at hueco before it was reoccupied, on my first trip with Chuck Wheeler in 1986 and told some hilarious stories at night - I was Just thinking of his describing his attempt to pronounce "Ou est Buoux?" where is Buoux? in french "Ou eh Beuuuuuuuuuu? To which the Frenchman replied, "Are you looking for Bukes?" (Which is surprisingly how it is pronounced...) Later, constant ethics debates over Scrabble at an apartment he and John Sherman rented - the hold that broke off the last great Mushroom boulder problem - glue it back? (Sherman launched it into the distance to try to prevent this...) And the mutual affection between Todd and the family that ran the quonset hut in later years, Pete and Queta Zavala, some great Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners there. Stayed at his A-frame house the last time I was there with Sam Tingey about 5 years ago, same scene, lots of hilarious stories, training, and motivation.
I had my first Tibet table at an AAC meeting in Las Vegas in 87, he was going to Everest, with his dad's Wyoming expedition to free-climb the 2nd step, and I said he should be aware of and help the Tibetans, because it was a situation like the American Indians (referring to cultural/literal genocide...) and he said, "But Bob, I'm a Cowboy!" with such a big grin I could only give a weak combination amused and horrified stare. It was the Cowboys on Everest expedition, and Todd ended up not going and did the Salathe instead, or else it was the accident at the end when the summit belay anchor boulder rolled and they were saved after a long fall and broken bones by one afterthought backup piece. (A previous post reminds me I was also lucky enough to be in Boulder to see that first show at Neptune's, where they credited Gary for his `sponsorship'. To get enough Poptarts and krazy glue for their flappers to finish.) From an email from a friend I was looking back at last night before I heard the news: "Also got lots of micro-info on the various Salathe free ascents. Jim (Herson) is a fan of Todd/Paul and points out various flaws in the Huber and
other ascents."
Well, then there was the connection with Galen, the Lotus Flower trip, with stuffed Grizzly Bear shenanigans photos making it into Galen's slide shows, and they always were grateful Galen was there for the off-width. Some free Grade VI in the Winds with Todd, Paul, Tim Toula, Galen - Mt. Hooker? And I think Galen did photos on Direct NW Face of Half Dome. Todd had become a highly regarded fun motivational speaker. I saw him and Paul and Amy and Heidi up at Wild Iris a few times in the last decade up in Lander, always warm, funny and hospitable. I'm sure some other episodes will come to mind as well. (I think the last time I may have seen them was waving/honking as we were both driving up I-80 toward Evanston a couple of years ago.) I first heard of him from a mutual friend Mark Sonnenfeld when Todd living in a teepee near Devil's Tower and they and Steve Hong and Beth Wald were putting in some classic routes there, and Todd was also getting to the Needles in S.D. Oh, and even before the Salathe, he shared some notoriety in the Valley with Alan Watts for working and doing the Stigma!
--------
Well, what has already been posted says it all - Todd was a great human being who not only inspired a lot of us with his visionary ahead of his time ascents, but also actively helped many of us in our own efforts with his kindness, wisdom, hospitality, and humor. It is fortunate and inevitable that his spirit lives on.
Bob
Thought I'd post some stories, there's lots of them from the Supertopo website:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=270833&tn=0&...
It's a long thread.
Author:
Bob Palais
Trad climber
From: UT I got an email this morning from John Ackerly, and this was some of my reply, with some editing and addenda:
---------------------
Hi John,
God I hate emails whose subject lines are a friend's name.
I first met him when he was the caretaker at the quonset hut at hueco before it was reoccupied, on my first trip with Chuck Wheeler in 1986 and told some hilarious stories at night - I was Just thinking of his describing his attempt to pronounce "Ou est Buoux?" where is Buoux? in french "Ou eh Beuuuuuuuuuu? To which the Frenchman replied, "Are you looking for Bukes?" (Which is surprisingly how it is pronounced...) Later, constant ethics debates over Scrabble at an apartment he and John Sherman rented - the hold that broke off the last great Mushroom boulder problem - glue it back? (Sherman launched it into the distance to try to prevent this...) And the mutual affection between Todd and the family that ran the quonset hut in later years, Pete and Queta Zavala, some great Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners there. Stayed at his A-frame house the last time I was there with Sam Tingey about 5 years ago, same scene, lots of hilarious stories, training, and motivation.
I had my first Tibet table at an AAC meeting in Las Vegas in 87, he was going to Everest, with his dad's Wyoming expedition to free-climb the 2nd step, and I said he should be aware of and help the Tibetans, because it was a situation like the American Indians (referring to cultural/literal genocide...) and he said, "But Bob, I'm a Cowboy!" with such a big grin I could only give a weak combination amused and horrified stare. It was the Cowboys on Everest expedition, and Todd ended up not going and did the Salathe instead, or else it was the accident at the end when the summit belay anchor boulder rolled and they were saved after a long fall and broken bones by one afterthought backup piece. (A previous post reminds me I was also lucky enough to be in Boulder to see that first show at Neptune's, where they credited Gary for his `sponsorship'. To get enough Poptarts and krazy glue for their flappers to finish.) From an email from a friend I was looking back at last night before I heard the news: "Also got lots of micro-info on the various Salathe free ascents. Jim (Herson) is a fan of Todd/Paul and points out various flaws in the Huber and
other ascents."
Well, then there was the connection with Galen, the Lotus Flower trip, with stuffed Grizzly Bear shenanigans photos making it into Galen's slide shows, and they always were grateful Galen was there for the off-width. Some free Grade VI in the Winds with Todd, Paul, Tim Toula, Galen - Mt. Hooker? And I think Galen did photos on Direct NW Face of Half Dome. Todd had become a highly regarded fun motivational speaker. I saw him and Paul and Amy and Heidi up at Wild Iris a few times in the last decade up in Lander, always warm, funny and hospitable. I'm sure some other episodes will come to mind as well. (I think the last time I may have seen them was waving/honking as we were both driving up I-80 toward Evanston a couple of years ago.) I first heard of him from a mutual friend Mark Sonnenfeld when Todd living in a teepee near Devil's Tower and they and Steve Hong and Beth Wald were putting in some classic routes there, and Todd was also getting to the Needles in S.D. Oh, and even before the Salathe, he shared some notoriety in the Valley with Alan Watts for working and doing the Stigma!
--------
Well, what has already been posted says it all - Todd was a great human being who not only inspired a lot of us with his visionary ahead of his time ascents, but also actively helped many of us in our own efforts with his kindness, wisdom, hospitality, and humor. It is fortunate and inevitable that his spirit lives on.
Bob
Author:
Michael Kennedy
Social climber
From: Carbondale, Colorado Sad, sad news.
Todd was not only the most psyched but also one of the the most generous climbers I've known. When we were in the Needles of South Dakota many years ago he and Paul Piana showed us around, got us onto routes we'd really enjoy, and generally played the host. Hayden was 2 years old at the time, not yet climbing but very much digging the whole camping scene, scrambling around in the dirt, and bouldering on little slabs.
One afternoon, Todd and Paul came by and led the three of us on a magical mystery tour through the spires, ending up at one of their favorite secret spots, the Orc Cave. They'd come by earlier to set the whole thing up, so when we crawled inside the cave was festooned with bones and spider webs and arrowheads, and lit by candles. Hayden wasn't quite sure what to think of it, but Todd and Paul's enthusiasm and infectious energy won him over and he was soon fully into their fantastic stories about orcs and goblins and battles. How many of us would have done so much just to delight a friend's child?
Heartfelt sympathy to Amy, his kids, and his many friends around the world.
Michael, Julie, and Hayden Kennedy
Michael Kennedy
Social climber
From: Carbondale, Colorado Sad, sad news.
Todd was not only the most psyched but also one of the the most generous climbers I've known. When we were in the Needles of South Dakota many years ago he and Paul Piana showed us around, got us onto routes we'd really enjoy, and generally played the host. Hayden was 2 years old at the time, not yet climbing but very much digging the whole camping scene, scrambling around in the dirt, and bouldering on little slabs.
One afternoon, Todd and Paul came by and led the three of us on a magical mystery tour through the spires, ending up at one of their favorite secret spots, the Orc Cave. They'd come by earlier to set the whole thing up, so when we crawled inside the cave was festooned with bones and spider webs and arrowheads, and lit by candles. Hayden wasn't quite sure what to think of it, but Todd and Paul's enthusiasm and infectious energy won him over and he was soon fully into their fantastic stories about orcs and goblins and battles. How many of us would have done so much just to delight a friend's child?
Heartfelt sympathy to Amy, his kids, and his many friends around the world.
Michael, Julie, and Hayden Kennedy
Author:
Largo
Sport climber
From: Venice, Ca F@#$ing Hell, I was really hoping this was a troll. The Tower is so steep I can't picture what Todd ever hit that would or could have killed him. Warner, can you kindly tell us what the hell happened?
Just last month Todd e-mailed me. He always seemed invincible--so much stoke and energy and such a positive attitude. And the guy had been everywhere, from Mali to Venezuela, and always had a great and epic tale to tell. He inspired many people.
Condolences to all of those he left behind. There's not likely to be another like Todd anytime soon.
JL
Largo
Sport climber
From: Venice, Ca F@#$ing Hell, I was really hoping this was a troll. The Tower is so steep I can't picture what Todd ever hit that would or could have killed him. Warner, can you kindly tell us what the hell happened?
Just last month Todd e-mailed me. He always seemed invincible--so much stoke and energy and such a positive attitude. And the guy had been everywhere, from Mali to Venezuela, and always had a great and epic tale to tell. He inspired many people.
Condolences to all of those he left behind. There's not likely to be another like Todd anytime soon.
JL
Michelle L. Escudero
climber
From: Lander, WY I know Todd as Hannah, Sarah, and Jakes' dad and Amy’s husband. People would say to me, “You know Todd Skinner?!” I’d reply, “Yea, he’s a Dad.” You know the guy that takes Jake up to the cabin for a boys' night out. The guy who brings a flower to Hannah after the ballet recital. The guy who feeds all kids junk food for dinner and plays wild games. The guy, through those damn pep talks, who gets us to work so absurdly hard to try and start a new pubic school here in Lander.
I have spent my fair share of nights under the stars and in the pouring rain for the need of what the wilderness has to give…so I know what it feels like to want to be some place so badly, work hard to get there, and focus on the goal. What I don’t understand is why did it have to be like this? Did it have to be either or? Is that what rad climbing is all about? Eventually, it catches up with you?
Last Friday Steve Bechtel showed me a bunch of pictures of Todd and him hunkered under a rock overhang waiting out a summer snowstorm in the Winds. Todd had that clown-like grin with the upturned end—Jake has that same grin. And, life was simple.
Now what? Be there for Amy. Share in the responsibility of raising their children. Take Jake to the cabin for a boy’s night out. And, remember the flower….
M. L. E.
climber
From: Lander, WY I know Todd as Hannah, Sarah, and Jakes' dad and Amy’s husband. People would say to me, “You know Todd Skinner?!” I’d reply, “Yea, he’s a Dad.” You know the guy that takes Jake up to the cabin for a boys' night out. The guy who brings a flower to Hannah after the ballet recital. The guy who feeds all kids junk food for dinner and plays wild games. The guy, through those damn pep talks, who gets us to work so absurdly hard to try and start a new pubic school here in Lander.
I have spent my fair share of nights under the stars and in the pouring rain for the need of what the wilderness has to give…so I know what it feels like to want to be some place so badly, work hard to get there, and focus on the goal. What I don’t understand is why did it have to be like this? Did it have to be either or? Is that what rad climbing is all about? Eventually, it catches up with you?
Last Friday Steve Bechtel showed me a bunch of pictures of Todd and him hunkered under a rock overhang waiting out a summer snowstorm in the Winds. Todd had that clown-like grin with the upturned end—Jake has that same grin. And, life was simple.
Now what? Be there for Amy. Share in the responsibility of raising their children. Take Jake to the cabin for a boy’s night out. And, remember the flower….
M. L. E.
Author:
Lezlie Lehmann
Trad climber
From: Van Nuys, Ca. It was June 1985. I had just turned 30. My boyfriend, Hans (now my husband of 18 years), our golden retriever, Tascha, and I were in the incubation stage of our year off from being working stiffs and we had just made our first climbing purchases: top roping tools and a single 150 meter rope and books, so we could teach ourselves to climb when we stopped in Index, Washington and saw a site that blew our minds - there was Todd at least 200 ft above ground, free soloing what looked like a freakishly steep featureless face - we were so naive; M&Ms without the helmets but still; I thought I was looking at a demented God, and a beautiful one at that with his golden hair falling all over his face and his pink tank top and baggy short pants rolled up at the cuffs, just dancing like Baryshnikov up that impossible looking line. I literally held my breath till he sailed over to a fixed rope and rappelled down.
His barely white beat up ol VW bus was parked next to our '82 Toyota shortbed with a cabover camper on top and I was frying up bacon for BLT sandwiches when he ambled through the parking lot unfazed and grinnning at us through the camper door with his signature "Ain't life grand?" smile. If I was entranced seeing him free solo, I was totally captivated by his charm and impish smile and his friendliness. The first thing I ever said to Todd Skinner was, "Would you like a BLT?" When he finished licking the mayonnaise off his taped fingers, he woke his then partner, Beth Wald, from a nap and she belayed him on "City Park," Todd's then pet project and of course the hardest climb that had not yet gone free, which of course made it all the more alluring to Todd, who would not be deterred, even by greasy holds that had been made so by jealous local climbers who were not happy about this Wyoming "Cowboy," hornin' in on "their so-called territory." Todd wasn't even fazed by it.
From that point on, Todd took us under his protective wing; he so admired that we had cut loose from society's noose for an entire year that he made a point of always letting us know where he'd be hangin' his resoles next so we could meet up with him, which we did faithfully for the rest of that year, all the way through the Spring of '86. And it was, without a doubt, a history-making year because Todd Rocked the Climbing Community with a shake-up make-over unlike any it had known before. ALong with a small but faithfully devoted crew, headed up by Paul Piana and Beth Wald, and Bill Hatcher, against some fierce and sometimes brutally dangerous controversy, Todd turned the trad tide upside down and created a new wave form he called, "Sport Climbing;" by raising the difficulty level of climbing from the top down, and protecting a seemingly impossible line in advance of climbing it, he made the impossible possible, and safer to boot. And even though Hans and never did embrace Sport climbing over trad, we loved and admired Todd for his gumption, his passion, his grace, his incomparable wit and his unparalleled kindness.
Every morning I wake up and the first thing I see is Todd freeing the Salathe and Paul belaying him inside a tent on a ledge below. On his outstretched red-clad right arm he wrote on this framed poster, "Hans & Lezlie- Climb Wildly."
We were in Yosemite this past weekend and I actually thought I saw Todd climbing above the Nose on El Cap, as I was viewing climbers from a telescope in the meadow 1500' below - we didn't actually know Todd was there; had we known, we would have surely scouted around till we found him; just to say "Howdy" and see him smile again. I am devastated that this beloved and loving man is gone, though his star will glint like the light in his baby blues on and on and on. Todd Skinner will be loved and cherished and remembered for all time - of this I have no doubt- for he is legendary and there will never be another Todd- the Best of the Best. My heart is full, and aching Amy, for you, for Todd, for your children, your family & friends, and for all of us who are Blessed to have been graced by Todd's Great Big Beingness. His spirit is Vast and will influence and inspire us to be passionate and true to our own paths.
May you be bouyed by the wings of his protective love where ever he flies tonight and ever more---
Lezlie Lehmann
Lezlie Lehmann
Trad climber
From: Van Nuys, Ca. It was June 1985. I had just turned 30. My boyfriend, Hans (now my husband of 18 years), our golden retriever, Tascha, and I were in the incubation stage of our year off from being working stiffs and we had just made our first climbing purchases: top roping tools and a single 150 meter rope and books, so we could teach ourselves to climb when we stopped in Index, Washington and saw a site that blew our minds - there was Todd at least 200 ft above ground, free soloing what looked like a freakishly steep featureless face - we were so naive; M&Ms without the helmets but still; I thought I was looking at a demented God, and a beautiful one at that with his golden hair falling all over his face and his pink tank top and baggy short pants rolled up at the cuffs, just dancing like Baryshnikov up that impossible looking line. I literally held my breath till he sailed over to a fixed rope and rappelled down.
His barely white beat up ol VW bus was parked next to our '82 Toyota shortbed with a cabover camper on top and I was frying up bacon for BLT sandwiches when he ambled through the parking lot unfazed and grinnning at us through the camper door with his signature "Ain't life grand?" smile. If I was entranced seeing him free solo, I was totally captivated by his charm and impish smile and his friendliness. The first thing I ever said to Todd Skinner was, "Would you like a BLT?" When he finished licking the mayonnaise off his taped fingers, he woke his then partner, Beth Wald, from a nap and she belayed him on "City Park," Todd's then pet project and of course the hardest climb that had not yet gone free, which of course made it all the more alluring to Todd, who would not be deterred, even by greasy holds that had been made so by jealous local climbers who were not happy about this Wyoming "Cowboy," hornin' in on "their so-called territory." Todd wasn't even fazed by it.
From that point on, Todd took us under his protective wing; he so admired that we had cut loose from society's noose for an entire year that he made a point of always letting us know where he'd be hangin' his resoles next so we could meet up with him, which we did faithfully for the rest of that year, all the way through the Spring of '86. And it was, without a doubt, a history-making year because Todd Rocked the Climbing Community with a shake-up make-over unlike any it had known before. ALong with a small but faithfully devoted crew, headed up by Paul Piana and Beth Wald, and Bill Hatcher, against some fierce and sometimes brutally dangerous controversy, Todd turned the trad tide upside down and created a new wave form he called, "Sport Climbing;" by raising the difficulty level of climbing from the top down, and protecting a seemingly impossible line in advance of climbing it, he made the impossible possible, and safer to boot. And even though Hans and never did embrace Sport climbing over trad, we loved and admired Todd for his gumption, his passion, his grace, his incomparable wit and his unparalleled kindness.
Every morning I wake up and the first thing I see is Todd freeing the Salathe and Paul belaying him inside a tent on a ledge below. On his outstretched red-clad right arm he wrote on this framed poster, "Hans & Lezlie- Climb Wildly."
We were in Yosemite this past weekend and I actually thought I saw Todd climbing above the Nose on El Cap, as I was viewing climbers from a telescope in the meadow 1500' below - we didn't actually know Todd was there; had we known, we would have surely scouted around till we found him; just to say "Howdy" and see him smile again. I am devastated that this beloved and loving man is gone, though his star will glint like the light in his baby blues on and on and on. Todd Skinner will be loved and cherished and remembered for all time - of this I have no doubt- for he is legendary and there will never be another Todd- the Best of the Best. My heart is full, and aching Amy, for you, for Todd, for your children, your family & friends, and for all of us who are Blessed to have been graced by Todd's Great Big Beingness. His spirit is Vast and will influence and inspire us to be passionate and true to our own paths.
May you be bouyed by the wings of his protective love where ever he flies tonight and ever more---
Lezlie Lehmann
In reply to dtripp:
Very, very sad and upsetting news. I had the great fortune to spend most of the winter of 1987 with Todd, Craig, Jim, Steve and assorted others in Hueco followed by spring in Smith Rocks. An inspiration to all, Todd showed how being modest, motivated and a kind person gets you a long way in this life. A true gent who has left a lasting memory with many people, myself included.
RIP
Sean
Very, very sad and upsetting news. I had the great fortune to spend most of the winter of 1987 with Todd, Craig, Jim, Steve and assorted others in Hueco followed by spring in Smith Rocks. An inspiration to all, Todd showed how being modest, motivated and a kind person gets you a long way in this life. A true gent who has left a lasting memory with many people, myself included.
RIP
Sean
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