UKC

A bunch of keen Peak Limestone climbers have got together and set up the Peak Bolt Fund. Their aim is to establish a fund which can be used to help re-equip routes across the Peak area. The fund will be for re-equiping only, so you can rest assured your money will not be used for retro-bolting or people's personal new routing.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Alan James - UKC:
you can rest assured your money will not be used for retro-bolting or people's personal new routing.

Just like the Yorkshire Bolts Fund?

In reply to Alan James - UKC: Oh I would have really loved to have seen 'Peaks Bolt Fund Established'

In reply to Steve Crowe: Steve I'm aware of the criticism the YBF has recieved for using funds for retro-bolting and new routing. That's why i've taken pains to state from the outset that the PBF is not to be used in this way. As long as I have charge of the gear it will not be let out for either purpose. If friends ask me for stuff to do new routing, I would probably lend them my tatty old drill and sell them some PBF bolts at a slight profit to the fund.

In reply to Boy:
Bloody hell, who in Yorkshire used YBF money to do their own routes?

The Ent

In reply to Enty: Sorry Enty, come to think of it i've heard people complain about the retro bolting but not new routing. I have absolutely no idea if YBF money is used for that.
For what it's worth I think the YBG has done a great job in Yorshire and are part of the inspiration for our peak effort.

In reply to Boy:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=72

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Like I said, I know the YBF has got some stick for retro-bolting, but the PBF wont be doing any so it's not an issue.

In reply to Boy:

This organisation www.safeclimbing.org/.......American Safe Climbing Association is also an inspiration. Greg Barnes is the main chap there, although Chris MacNamara set it up.

They say that,

"The ASCA returns classic climbing routes to their original danger level by replacing deteriorating old fixed anchors, usually bolts, with modern camouflaged gear. We do not add bolts to make climbs "safer." Climbing is inherently extremely dangerous. "

But still come in for much criticism (some hazy retro-bolting episodes, unavoidable I think). I think they have replaced over 4,000 bolts.

Make sure you have a game plan and are re-equipping lower grade routes as much as you are 8a+ etc

I for one will be donating your sterling efforts despite the fact I won't be climbing many of the routes down there in the PeakS (but would like to).

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Yeah, it's obviously a bit of a minefield we are stepping into. All we can do is tread carefully.
Cheers for the pledge!

In reply to Boy:

Would be nice to know a scale of costs...

e.g

£xxx will replace a bolt

£xxx will replace a lower-off station

£xxx will feed a village of rebolters for a year

you know that sort of thing.

In reply to ChrisJD: As yet we are not decided on what type/s of bolt to use, who will be supplying and therefore can't state the cost. I'll be happy to give approximate cost when I have the info.
From my own bolting experience, assuming we use 12mm stainless fixings as standard i'd give the following probably wildly inaccurate guesses.
1 resin bolt + resin £4-6
1 expansion bolt + hanger £4.50-6
Chain lower off based on 2 expansion bolts + hangers, two maillons (one small one medium) plus some chain £15-20
Take those figures with a bucket of salt