UKC

Is there competition to Orion Direct for it's length, line and location?

In reply to Norrie Muir: No, probably not.
Have you been somewhere interesting?

In reply to Norrie Muir:

A friend of mine who was a really good climber in the 80s (led Cream at Tremadoc within a year of starting climbing, and Right Wall I think a year later) said, when I met him again a few years later, that Orion Face Direct was the best winter route he'd ever done, but that it had been in v hard conditions. Apparently the last few hundred feet they were moving together 150 feet apart with their axes scarcely biting. He said he was so afraid he was crying! The next day they decided to take it easy and went and did Curving Ridge on the Buachaille.

In reply to Norrie Muir:

No.

North Wall Grooves would be my benchmark mixed V (you did have a good eye for a line).

Stuart

In reply to Norrie Muir:

No Norrie, the Orion Face Direct IS the best winter route in Scotland.
I did it in perfect conditions of styrofoam neve on a perfect bright blue day. One of the very best days I've had on the hill.
Grahame

In reply to Norrie Muir:

Nope I think Orion Direct IS the best winter line.

Cheers fur noo
George Mc

In reply to Norrie Muir:

NO - It's as good as it gets, as you first glimpse the face on the approach you know this climb is special, extraordinary in fact, the beauty of the line, the alpine ambience, you really loose your self up there, in that world of wild wind sculptured ice.

In reply to Norrie Muir:
No competition, the Orion is the best IMHO.

In reply to Norrie Muir: It is a great route, we had the whole face to ourselves.

In reply to Norrie Muir:

What do reckon for the IV Norrie?

The Curtain, Emerald Gully, No 6?

In reply to John Rushby:

The best IV in the Norries is The Message.. (Sorry couldn't resist)

In reply to John Rushby:
It is a grade I am not too familiar with, so start your own thread to get an an answer.

In reply to Norrie Muir:

Length - Well yes - there are longer routes on the Ben and on Meagaidh - 1959 Face Route for example (another Jimmy Marshall route - this time with Stenhouse and Haston). That wanders around a bit but so does Orion Indirect!

In terms of line I'd say Alan Kimber and Con Higgins route out of the basin (Astral Highway) is the true Orion 'Direct'. It may not be as classic but it is more direct and gives better climbing (and you get the added "bonus" of doing the mantrap on North East Buttress - which often seems to be the crux of an outing on The Orion Face!).

Nothing can really match the fantastic location and atmosphere of The Orion Face but for sheer climbing quality I would suggest many other Nevis grade V's are actually more interesting - Minus 2 Gully, Smith's Route or Point Five for that matter all have more exciting climbing on them.

I'm sure I've seen Orion Direct given V,4 in some guides which, in good conditions, is fair enough - In the same way Slav Route gets VI,5. Don't get me wrong - these are both brilliant routes in an awesome place but the climbing is obviously more about stamina and a cool head than technical excitement.....

....unless you are cutting steps of course - Now that would be technically exciting!

Aye, Rob.

In reply to John Rushby:
Best grade IV would be Route Major on Carn Etchachan, longish committing approach, route finding, good climbing, big route on a big cliff, and for me a glorious day with nobody else in the valleyt.

In reply to Exile:

Ah yes, I forgot that one, and to appease Norrie, one could lob in an ascent of The Chancer while there.

In reply to Rob Jarvis:
Con told me that he does not rate Astral Highway, nothing special about it. Still, what does he know.

In reply to Burnsie:


If the best is the one you've done - I'd have to agree!

In reply to Norrie Muir:


Alan told me he thought there was some great ice climbing on it....but to be fair he also said he was Con's 'rope boy' back then!

He also said that the real Orion direct was 'Journey into Space' (Again, Con and Alan's route) - which, for obvious reasons, don't see much traffic!

The route I've always wanted to do high on The Ben is 'Riders on the Storm' - looks brilliant intricate climbing....and an inspriring name! A mate and I stood at the bottom of it a few years ago when it was well icey but it was thawing like hell and we (probably wisely) bottled it!

In reply to Rob Jarvis:

Perhaps, "Orion face holds the best Grade V and V+ climbs in Scotland", is a more appropriate statement. I did another fine variation from the basin up some icy chimney and then corners and mixed climbing to get to below the Mantrap, cant remember the variation though...

In reply to Laubie: PS, what are the routes that leave the Left edge of the basin that climbs a variation of grooves to the Mantrap and NE butress. I forget the names...

In reply to Laubie:

Smith/Holt V4

In reply to Norrie Muir:

West Central Gully on Beinn Eighe
The Nose Direct on Sgurr an Fidhleir
Mitre Ridge on Beinn a Bhuird
Snoopy on Mainreachan (though not done it yet)
Tir an Og on Ladhar Bheinn (not done that one either!!!)

All are, IMHO, in a different league from Orion.

Orion's a bit of an an auld mannie's route Norrie

In reply to Norrie Muir:
I cant wait to get on this route! It looks and sounds brilliant!

In reply to Smelly Fox:
Orion Direct that is.

In reply to Wry Gob:

Nose Direct on the Fidhleir certainly looks mindboggling. Surely one of the powerful lines in Britain.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Certainly looks it! A friend of mine who did it a couple of years ago said it was great but bold at the top. They did Silver Tear and the nose in the same week as well as some other ultra classics.!

In reply to Wry Gob:

Well, you don't expect me to suggest a karriewhitchit's route, do you?

In reply to Gordon Stainforth: aye,the fiddlers nose must be one of the most impressive mountain features in the UK.

wry gob, tir na og is the best line (let alone grade V) in Scotland, keep a free space in your winter diary for that one

In reply to Norrie Muir:

yes, there is competition.

Poachers Fall - Liathach
The Dagger - Creagan a'Choire Etchachan
Mitre Ridge - Bheinn a Bhuird

In reply to Norrie Muir: Crest Route in the Coe is probably the best V Ive done, a modern mega classic and certainly no pushover, nearly every move is technical 6 on the crux pitch, but slots for hooks and wee doo-cots for yer feet everywhere, the variation pitch 3 up the wall is brilliant, very exposed and absorbing climbing.

North Wall Groove is good, but dont know why the postie rates it so highly, each to their own I suppose.

In reply to Norrie Muir: Bats Gash on Ben Lair looks amazing as well