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NEW ARTICLE: Taxus - Introduction to Winter Climbing

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 JoH - Editor 13 Nov 2006
"A few grade I/II routes under my belt and I felt ready for anything. That was until I found myself halfway up Taxus, tied to a knife-blade piton and ice screw..."

Pete Etheridge takes us up this classic winter route.

Read more - http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=244
 Doug 13 Nov 2006
In reply to JoH - Editor: brings back memories of a day out with between exams & the start of the christmas holidays back in 1980. I think I was climbing with Neil Morrison (probably the first winter route we climbed together) along with Ian Duckworth & Pete Bilsborough. My memories have a move around a chockstone on the first pitch as the hardest move but I guess that banks out later in the season, the direct finish was the first time I'd climbed anything so long on water ice & the final pitch up to the summit was technically easy but seemed very insecure with no gear. Somewhere still have a photo of the sunset from the summit

 net 13 Nov 2006
In reply to JoH - Editor: Nice one Pete! Sounds an ace route.
hebe 13 Nov 2006
In reply to JoH - Editor:

ooh pete youve got me all excited!!!!!!
DeadSquirrel 13 Nov 2006
In reply to Doug:
> My memories have a move around a chockstone on the first pitch as the hardest move but I guess that banks out later in the season,

It still was that day - the seasons seem to be getting later. The harder finish looked a lot thinner than when I did it before, so took the easy option this time!

Doughboy 17 Nov 2006
In reply to JoH - Editor:

Brilliant route that one, worth every star. We took a variant on the waterfall finish - a full 60mtr rope length traverse to the right above the waterfall, then up a near vertical and highly fluted wall, leading to a crap belay at the arete to the right of the true finish...was bloody scary with no gear but great fun.

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