UKC Forums - NEW ARTICLE: Rookies on Lochnagar

NEW ARTICLE: Rookies on Lochnagar

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JoH - Editor 20 Nov 2006

"The snow soon became waist deep as we waded towards the first aid point. This was my first winter visit into the Coire, and as Alistair pointed out the classic routes, the names of Lochnagar pioneers – Patey and Brooker, Marshall, Tiso and the rest came to mind. At once it was clear why they, and many others, had been drawn here. "

Doug G recalls his first winter climbing trip to Lochnagar.

Read more - http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=269

Yanchik 20 Nov 2006

In reply to JoH - Editor:

Nice one Doug !

As I tell my fiancee, I might not get much climbed when I'm there, but if I'm not there, I certainly won't climb anything... (and I don't tell her how much fun it is trying )

Y

DougG 20 Nov 2006

In reply to Yanchik:

We unwittingly broke just about every rule in the book that day, I guess that's one way to learn however...

sandywilson 20 Nov 2006

In reply to DougG:

Trimming too much off your crampon straps! Been there, done that, got the scarred finger tips to proove it. I was also putting them on too late with no prospect of reversing without crampons on.

SonyaD 20 Nov 2006

In reply to DougG: Nice article Doug. I can remember last year, gearing up half way up a route. Was most unpleasant trying to get stuff sorted, whilst balanced precariously on a wee snowy ridge. Not something I'll ever do again! (I hope)

DougG 20 Nov 2006

In reply to lasonj and sandy:

Aye, it's always nice when you don't have to learn the hard way!

david henderson 20 Nov 2006

In reply to DougG: Thanks for the article. I had certainly my most memorable winter day in Lochnagar this year ,and climbing partner likewise. Its definately a place that makes an impression.

Fume Troll 20 Nov 2006

In reply to JoH - Editor: Good one Doug!

Cheers,

FT.

pierro 26 Nov 2006

In reply to JoH - Editor:

Doug

I've geared up on solid neve on No3 gully, too hard to dig a pit to stand in so was doing it all on our front points! couldn't get our harnesses on so had to do it with the rope tied round out waist, body belaying, great day.

john

DougG 30 Nov 2006

In reply to pierro:

Haha, great day just about sums it up John.

I wrote all that stuff not long after the climb itself. Every time I go back and look at it I realise how much poorer my life is now for not having so many days like that one, ones when you really live.

It's just a phase - for me it's a result of having 2 young kids - but there are times when it seems like quite a long one...