UKC

Have fancied trying some slate for a while, looking for some sane suggestions. Trad somewhere between VS and E1, preferably protectable. As for Sport stuff, f6a to 6b+ ish. Should be accesable from Liverpool area, around 2 to 3 hrs drive.

Fire away.

In reply to kipper12: theres alot of development being done at the moment in the llanberis slate quarrys and alot of routes are being made safer by the addition of bolts and rebolting. the usuall classics for a first trip to the quarrys are , fools gold E1, solstice and equinox both VS and the tad scary gnat attack E1/ f6a all in bus stop quarry in dinorwic. also there are some must do classics scatterd around the main quarry e.g- seamstress VS and seams the same HVS (no topropeing the E4 on the right hand side!! its getting polished!!) but a good thing to know is that anything below VS on slate is usually a chossy nightmare!
(make a £5 donation in V12 to the bolt fund and get a free slate guidebook)

happy climbing

In reply to IOAN D: Is slate as bad when wet as people say? is it pretty sheltered in the quarries at Llanberis?

In reply to kipper12: Slate is cracking, a bizarre place to climb. I'm from Llanberis originally and used to play around the quarries as a kid and there are some crazy places hidden away.

My sugestions would be Seamstress, Sms the same, Launch Pad, Mad Dogs of the west, mentil lentils and bella Lugosi is Dead. All pretty steady as slate goes.

I haven't climbed a Pex Hill but I understand it's good for the old crimps. If so it should stand you in good stead for the quarries.

In reply to kipper12:
Don't forget the Lakes too

Hodge Close is well worth a visit or two, and particulary Cathedral Quarry where Night of The Hot Pies is a classic in your grade preference

In reply to anthonyecc:

Slate when wet is a no-no.

In reply to Yorkspud:
I did some slate in a quarry in the lakes once in the rain, it was a bit like climbing glass

In reply to kevin stephens:

Good call. Heading to the Lakes is definitely recommended, the slate there is at least as good as Welsh stuff and perhaps more interesting and scenic to explore.

Hodge Close has a couple of cracking HVSs, Parrock Quarry has some pleasant sport routes, Cup and Lip is a great little route, Night Of The Hot Pies is excellent and the whole of Cathedral is impressive, Tilberthwaite Quarry is a very nice spot with some good short routes VS upwards, Blue Quarry has a few good sport routes, and Dalt is "okay"...

In reply to Fiend:

I pulled a large block off Cup an Lip, on the upper wall during the summer, there may be still some more loose stuff? I didn't look myself as I was making sure I still had all my fingers!

I prefer the Lakeland slate, but Parrock and Hodge Close Quarries always seems to be on the move! I won't be rushing back to Parrock Quarry.

In reply to kipper12: If you visit www.markreevesclimbing.com and click on the Safe Slate link at the top of the page you will get a list of all the rotues that have been re-bolted, along with some info on which are more sports climbs and which are like bolted trad.

My personal recommendations are for sport.
The deceptive Dyke - Looning the Tube area - F5
Peter Pan - Serengeti - F6a(+?)
Drowning Man - Cig-Arete Level - F6b

Bolted Trad
Loads around looning the tube
Launching Pad, Tower of Laughter - Dalis Hole both - E1 (two bolts to top)
Mentil Lentils - Vivian Quarry - HVS Bolts and wires
Psychotherapy - Vivian Quarry - E2 bolts and wires (it is a one move wonder right by bolt)