UKC

I've set myself the goal of getting off this plateau and getting my first E2 done and dusted by the 1st August. Suggestions on routes appreciated...

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):
If you own a couple of monster cams, Elder crack is Ace...

In reply to Gary (Vindicta): Regent Street

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):
Suggestions on routes appreciated...

Shibboleth, True Finish in Glencoe and Torro on Ben Nevis.

In reply to blanchie14c:

How monster are we talking for Elder?

Springbank is reputedly near the bottom of the grade - though my foot popped when I was *that* close to the crucial handhold and so I've blown the onsight

Steve (in the same boat)

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):

Here you go, start at the bottom and work your way up but leave out Ferdinand and Flytrap on your way past!

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/upload/members/NWR%20Graded%20List.pdf

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):

number 4's the biggest baddest ones! If you can even borrow some for the day maybe?
My partner, Lozzer, lead it with 2 x number 3 (1 HB and 1 Camalot) and they were too small. The top half then had to be lead with no gear, an amazing lead! However, Brown didn't have cams did he? i understand there was a chockstone used back then though.
'The big issue' that John Dunne film, shows the climb and the cams and 'big John' defying gravity when he floats up it!

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):

One that you are personally inspired by and are prepared to accept the challenge (regardless of grade).

In reply to Gary (Vindicta): the two i've onsited....

Redex at Raven Threshwaite

Asphasia - Sargent Crag slabs

I'm going for as many as i can this year....

Particually inspired by

Saxon
Equus
Left Wall
Strand

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):

Pillar Front at Eastby

In reply to Gary (Vindicta): Scoop Wall, Stoney. (Probably the best and most memorable E2 I've done.)

In reply to Steve Ramsden: or if you want an easy(ish) tick - Black Wall Eliminate, Almscliffe. 5c boulder problem start into an E1. (or HVS if you've got a bit of stamina and can jam)

In reply to Steve Ramsden: *i mean almscliff. must stop doing that

In reply to Gary (Vindicta): Almost any in Pembroke are a soft touch!

In reply to Steve Ramsden: Yeh, Scoop Wall is ok, mainly because its mega protected, Dead Banana Crack is harder and I think thats only E1, the easiest E3 at Stoney used to be Boat Pushers Wall but I dont know what its graded these days?

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):

If in Lancs:
Golden Tower at Anglezarke Quarry. Brilliant climb, not too tough (although steep) and with good gear.
Whilst there do First Finale E2, a good steep climb with gear and not high in the grade (might be E1 in some books?).

If in Yorks:
bold - Pillar Front, Eastby; Short Circuit, Ilkley
quarried - Scar, Baildon (a really good route; don't pick Moria which is harder)
steep - Black Wall Eliminate, Almscliff

Peak:
Brown's Eliminate, Froggatt (safe on crux)
Argus, Stanage (funky little arete) + apparently Pot Black (not done)
Wuthering, Stanage (really not bad, poss safer for leader + is good gear)
The Original Route, Rivelin Needle (v good, safe)

No doubt many many others, tick that lot and you'll have done some belters though.

In reply to match: Wuthering is hard if you are small.

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):
The only E2+'s i have done have probably been soft-touches:

Kayak at Curbar (E2 5b?) is soft but a bit ballsy (HVS imho)

Tip off at Caley (E2 5b) i thought was fair at E2 when on it but in hindsight is prob E1.

Acme wall a Brimham gets E3 6a.. or V3.. It's not that bad with a decent spotter!

I'd set yourself the goal of something like Left Wall.. i think that's probably my aim for the coming year.

Matt

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Good quality list there.

Gilette Direct - Neckband
The Bug Craig Toiladh
Diabaeg Pillar
Esk Buttress
Mandarin - Houghton (if clean and accessible
The Thing/SS Special - Grochan
Hardd

So many

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):

the steeple shelter stone

Left wall the chromlech

the Strand Upper tier

Quietus stanage

Darius high tor

The Quartz Icicle - Fly Trap

Aura and Mothers Little Helper

Rigor Mortis > Castle Rock of Triermain


some of my favoured routes... at this grade...

In reply to Mattyk: Kayak is ok if you have a mat (I didnt)

In reply to Ian McNeill: Quietus is not a soft touch, its just well protected but desperate, I will agree with all the rest, but I have never done Quietus 'clean'. You must be wierd if you find Quietus a soft touch, I think its 6a and desperate. It must be how I do it? Something like 6 times and never easy.

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):

Ear Crag Buttress has got to be one of the best grit E2's.

In reply to Al Evans: Even when i begged for a mat.. my kind mates insisted that they needed it to lie on and take photographs..i think a mat misses the point of the route. its just one 'fluttery' move and then as much gear as you can carry into a massive break!

I don't think the OP mentioned what sort of routes they preferred? Looking at my list of E numbers 1's,2's and 3's i think the list is made up almost exclusively of bold or technical slabs. Obviously some people prefer more gear and therefore harder or more sustained climbing for their E points..

In reply to Mattyk: Errrr Quietus is not a bold and fluttery slab, and Kayak is totally height dependent.

In reply to Al Evans: Quietus.. it's an upside down slab..

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):

Get fit, ignore gritstone nothing routes like Kayak (E1 anyway) and go and do something like out of the blue at lower sharpnose. Safe (apart from a little bit at the bottom) and steady. Prob low in the grade if you train on climbing walls

In reply to Gary (Vindicta): 1)Rat Race-Craig Gogarth: rather complex but a mini epic of a climb if you want a challenge. 2) Left Wall-Dinas Cromlech:short and sharp on an awsome crag.

In reply to richard kirby:


Possibly - where is it? Never heard of the crag let alone the route!


Chris

In reply to necromancer85: kayak is not E1 if you are less than 5'6"

In reply to Tyler:


and take with very pinch of salt - Vector has hard moves in several places, whilst Pincushion (top of list) has short, admittedly hard, crux - the rest is but a stroll.

In reply to Gary (Vindicta): The five best E2 s in England and Wales are as follows.

Saxon
Equus
Left Wall
Strand
Aura

FACT!!!!!!!

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):

Commander Energy.

In reply to Tyler: There seems to be some grade creep in this list: Mur y Niwl now HVS? And Llithrig now E1?

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Sorry, that should be Earl Crag Buttress, Yorkshire....not ear crag!!!

In reply to richard kirby:

Or even Earl Buttress maybe?


Chris

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):

The Bug - Tollaidh crags?
The Pillar - Diabeg

Most VS's in the County

In reply to Chris Craggs:

< blatant thread hijack; 'pologies to OP >

Just nebbing at yer blog. The sun did bleedin' come out on Friday - just as we headed home! Grr... Some good new routes at Alcalali, need a bit of a brush up though (and one's got a couple of bolts in the wrong place.) Rumour has it that you're in-situ in Denia. Is this an urban myth?

Mick

In reply to Al Evans:

I know, I barely clear 5'6! Had to do a dynamic launch to the left arete, not the easiest of moves when you're coming out of a full-on bridge!

Nevertheless, the leader has a toprope for that move, it's ok if you're 'normal' height, and the front face is easy and has good gear.

Tip off at Caley is a very soft E2, prob only E1 if you lead it and slap the gear in the break to protect the next couple of moves. Good solo, feels airy!

Kayak is nails if you can't reach any of the holds. I can't

In reply to match:

Also, MGC at Shepherds (Borrowdale) is stunningly-well protected and not too bad, couple of stiff moves by gear. Stays dry in the rain, for a bit at least, so good day-salvaging route.

In reply to match:

I can recommend MGC too.
Was my first E2 and felt steep but safe.

Also done Tip Off which felt bold and delicate, depends on your climbing style which one you prefer.

In reply to tmg:

I think Llithrig has pretty much always been E1 free.

Where's that in your profile picture?

In reply to Jus:


probably the best E2 you'll ever do....

In reply to EricpAndrew:


Hmmm, not a real line, unbalanced, disjointed, bottom half near easy ground . . . 1-star route.

In reply to Coel Hellier: everyone is entitled to their opinion,

the bottom half is kind of squezed in i'll admit, but holds the technical crux wich is thought provoking and good at e2.

then there is no better feeling than stepping off that flake at the top into a beautiful layback that "works"

my 2 cents

In reply to Tyler:
Yes E1 5c without the pendulum. Maybe the free vversion is E2 now

Amorican.

In reply to tmg:

But much less entertaining

In reply to EricpAndrew:

That mantel on to the flake followed by the most sweet sweet layback moves on the exposed rounded arete is unforgettable experience.

What's below doesn't matter! (and it's still pretty good!)

In reply to Jus: quite

utterly awsome at e2

In reply to match: Kayak is a classic version of a route that deserves two grades, P o P if you are tall, desperate if not. I thought it was worth E3, but I can guess that if you are about 2 inches taller than me its HVS.

In reply to Al Evans:
Don't get me started on Kayak.....

In reply to Mick Ward:



Yes the sun did come out as soon as yourself (and Alan + Mick) left the Blanca - its been warm if a little windy since. Did some of the new routes at Alacalali with Binky when he was here - very good we thought.
Here in Denia for another six weeks, then heading for home via Ariege - Sherri has to be back at school striaght after Easter!

Chris

In reply to Al Evans:
Too late you already have

The crux for Kayak comes higher up for tall people than it does for shorties. Just because tall people will find one move easier, doesn't mean they will also find the rest of the route easier.

(For the record I decided to back off it, succesfully downclimbed what you would consider the crux, but then slipped and fell the rest of the way)

In reply to Gary (Vindicta):
You could have a storming day at Lawrencefield/Millstone at E2:
Billy Whiz
Regent Street
Knightsbridge
and Erb
That is quite a good afternoon!