UKC

Has anyone climbed here?
What's it like?

In reply to Alex Purser:
dont know, but i got into problems years back with a gun a the rangers.
was accused of being a wallaby poacher!!!!

In reply to Alex Purser: small venue , not alot of routes tho. did the fantom and the hvs to the left of it and had a good evening there. well worth a visit. nice crag away from the crowds (most probably be the only one there)

In reply to Alex Purser:

Been once (years ago). Good, quite, fun for a day.

In reply to Alex Purser:

Only been for a flying visit but its well worth a trip and I will certainly be back when the latest BMC guidebook work stops dragging me elsewhere. Some of the grading is stiff: especially watch out for 'The Gape' its one of the peaks hardest VS sandbags. Check our views on the 'guides' section on our website (on my profile).

Thanks for replies. I'll be going for a bit of evening bouldering/soloing and it's sounding like a nice little venue.

Offwidth - Thanks for the reminder about your site. It's a brilliant resource but runs super duper slow on my computer (26400bps internet). I'll look at it on a mate's computer.

Anyone else got any route suggestions?

In reply to Alex Purser:

Gradbach is my new local crag...10 mins walk, its a great place, definately worth a days visit!!!

The bouldering/soloing is great, the yawning stone rocks, some nice easy stuff and a few hard problems too.
The gape is a nice VS(not too much of a sandbag!!) sense of doubt to the right at E2 looks good although I've not tried it yet

Theres a few worthwhile Severes/Hard Severes if you're climbing at that grade, names escape me at the minute; and an HVS, Johns Arete I think.

...and of course The Phantom, E4 5c, not gona try that til the autumn when its cooled down and I've had a summer to get strong again!!

Best thing about the place you're highly unlikely to see anyone else and theres great views across the valley.

Although the heather has been burnt back recently so its very ashy and dusty if the wind gets up!!

HTH

Phil

In reply to Peakphil:

To clarify my position on the Gape: the line shown in the topo in the new Roaches guide is close to E2 for all but giants or those with a huge ape index (even then a tough HVS). As far as I can tell the route may well have started up Sense of Doubt and traversed left midway, almost to Chockstone Crack, before moving up.

In reply to Peakphil:
not climbed here but run past it on several occasions and it looks interesting and it's always lonely. Open access country now so should be no prob. with going to the crag. Never sure how open access applies to climbing so if challenged (unlikely)plead ignorance (before being shot).

In reply to Peakphil: Saw that heather from the skyline ridge yesterday. Can't say i've got a vast knowledge of heather management. why is it burnt???

In reply to Offwidth:

What I've done is to start almost up sense of doubt on the low steep juggy bits and then move left where sense of doubt becomes hard (5c), then continue up the face???

Its short, theres good cams in the halfway slot; gaining the face may be hard 4c (but not quite 5a I dont think), then theres good holds up the face.

I think its a hard VS but no more....although I will go and do it this week just to check

There is a fine line between hard VS and easy HVS, try this and Baldstones Arete (HVS 4c) to compare, although the run-out on BA is what gets it HVS; you're on a deck nearing teh top as opposed to just a big fall on the Gape.

Nice climb though

HTH

Phil

In reply to Peakphil:

The topo line in the new guide takes the tricky start left of S.O.D. and then contines in a fairly direct line: try it! I agree the line you describe is around the VS/HVS border and is probably the orignal line. Both lines are excellent.

In reply to Offwidth:

I'll try it this week
....as long as the weather holds...not a great forecast!!

Phil

In reply to Offwidth:

You're right about this.

The Gape has nothing to do with VS 4c in any form.

The line in the guide is complete bollox, getting over the roof would be horrendous.

Even starting up SOD, then moving left onto the front face and climbing that direct to finish is still E0 5b or thereabouts, there is no way the move to get stood in the break is anything less unless you're deformed in some way. It is a good E0 5b though.

SOD is similar nonsense, it's hardly related to a usual E2 5c.

Other than that it's a nice enough crag.

In reply to Col Allott:

It's either due to a) a careless fag end and unintentional or b) and much more likely..intentionally burned off to get rid of the old heather and allow nice tasty new shoots to grow for the young grouse to feed on...to fatten them up so we can then shoot them and have something worth eating!

DID I TEACH YOU NOTHING!!!

In reply to Chris.Allott: excellent. by the end of summer i'll be up there on the grassy knol.