UKC

Sure it has been asked before, but with the lighter sets available, what should I throw my hard earned wonga at?

In reply to Tree:

DMM 1-10, pretty colours too. But are great and are a really easy to place. Don't like the shape of wild country myself too blocky.

In reply to Tree:
what do you want then for are they your core set of nuts or an extra set you want for some reason.

The super light rocks are excelent and go in placements other nuts just dont (espeically in the flaring sideways position). I wouldn't want them as my only set of nuts though....

In reply to Tree:

I do like my old style DMM wallnuts but ratings are slightly low in the lower sizes. Old style rocks are very nice aswell and more "predictable" in the few times ive placed them, don't get stuck so much in gritstone. May start using the Rocks more.

Personally i wouldnt spend the extra god-knows how many on a lighter colourful set but then again I lug a good 5kg up with me on a 6m gritstone climb.

In reply to Tree:
wallnuts are 4 grams lighter per set than rocks, and I prefer the shape of them also.

In reply to Judd_IV: I agree, DMM wallnuts and maybe some peenuts. I find them easier to use and they seem easier to get out.

In reply to Tree:

just to be perverse, I can't get on with wallnuts and have two sets of WC nuts instead.

In reply to Tree:

Wallnuts are nice, but it depends on the rock type your climbing really. I prefer wallnuts on granite an ryholite, but wc rocks on limestone.

If you're doing longer stuff then a set of each is possibly the best idea.

Josh.

In reply to freelancer_85:

Oh, wallnuts can be an absolute bastard to get out though.

Josh.

In reply to freelancer_85:

Yeah wallnuts are a bastard to get out, just make sure you're leading

In reply to Reaver2k:

Or alternatively just give your partner your wc rocks, which tend to be very easy to get out.

Josh.

In reply to Tree:
Climb this month has a good article on wires.
I'm also pretty new to all this and I bought two sets of WC rocks....initially an 'old' set from some website and then a set of the nice new coloured ones.

I think that they are great and really easy to get out. Wallnuts are more techy and good for half placements and that but you dinnae need a lot of half placements on severes!

I would reckon that wallnuts are the most common crag-swag too, as they are pretty easy to get stuck.

In reply to Tree:

I got a set of pretty coloured DMM Walnuts 1-6, the older style 7-11.

and as a compliment to them, http://www.peaktoseaproducts.com/products.aspx?mcid=2&scid=17# (second pic down) which some people find really weird and horrible, but I find they go well with the DMM ones coz they're different and fit different placements.

In reply to Tree:

I think you just get used to using whatever you use the most.

I on balance I prefer WC rocks(1-10) but also carry the DMM odd numbers (1-9) which in total give a decent chance of having something suitable for any placement without oversizing my rack.

In reply to Tree:
Decide on cost or weight, the fact that different people swear by different brands makes me think it doesn't really matter (provided they're CE rated). I got WC nuts becasue they looked like a simpler shape so simpler to place when I was a beginner (now I've progressed to punter).

In reply to Tree:

Personally think DMM Wallnuts are very good; they seem to seat well, although can be a bit more stubborn to get out, but then that gives me a bit more security that they're less likely to come out once I'm above them. As far as cost is concerned I just can't see the sense in saving ten or twenty quid on what is essentially potential life protection. How long is it going to take for the extra cost to be forgotten about anyway? Then you've got the best pro. every time you get on the crag.

In reply to Mark Sheridan: Totally agree that cost is not an issue. Losing my new toys 'cos they jam is. I know most of the people I climb with prefer WC stuff.
cheers
Tree

In reply to Tree:

if you're losing lots of gear I'd be inclined to say that you either need a new second, or some practise putting it in properly

Josh.

In reply to Tree:

Wild Country Rocks. The size 11 Wallnut is useful, but the smaller Wallnuts can be a nightmare to get out and Rocks seem to fit a wider variety of placements.

In reply to freelancer_85:

hmmm. they can be expensive though!

In reply to md@r:
>.....when I was a beginner (now I've progressed to punter).

When does one progress to punter? I've been at it about 8 mths. I really want to be a punter!

In reply to Hay:

beginner is when you have to be taken climbing all the time.

punter is when you can lead things without someone holding your hand... but just can't lead very hard.

guess that makes me a punter lol!

In reply to nikinko:

I think I must be a punter too then.
Hurrah.

In reply to Tree: It makes bugger all difference. You will get used to the limitations of either set. Its only when you swop to something else that you notice what you don't like about the "swop" set. If you are used to rocks, buy rocks. Personally I prefer Wallnuts as I like them on Limestone as you can lock them into the knobbly cracks but on stone which has less knobbles like grit, I'd say rocks are probably better. The other thing you may want to do is wait for DMM to bring out their version of the HB offset. They are totally different to any other nuts, and fit where nothing else will, especially flares. They make a very insecure placement feel bomber. They should be out this summer...

In reply to Tree:

I own WC rocks (presumably what people are calling old style as they're not anodised) and they're fine. With hindsight I prefer the DMMs for their tapered sides. The best Nuts I have are HB offsets but they're out of production and better as a second set as the range is limited.

Basically what I'm saying is they're all good and it's down to personal choice. I wouldn't spend extra money on shiney colours though.

jk

In reply to Tree: I have to say I hate wallnuts with a passion. They are often difficult to get out but also sometimes just do not set how I want them to, getting stuck in awkward positions.

So for me now, it's rocks all the way.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Spot on. Superb kit and I completely agree with Stevo on this one

The second fall I took off Eastern Hammer (E3 6a) yesterday was onto a bomber Superligt 4 and I took three falls on a Superlight 5 on Warpath (E5 6a) earlier this month.

In both cases they were much more secure placements than standard Rocks/Wallnuts would have provided.

Four climbing parters this year have commented on how good they are and that they might consider adding some to their racks.