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NEW ARTICLE: One of Europe’s best routes by Jack Geldard

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 Michael Ryan 08 Jun 2007
"Dietrich Hasse, the main driving force behind the first ascent of the Brandler-Hasse route (known then simply as ‘The Directissima’) scanned carefully every inch of the face when he climbed the Comici route. It was this knowledge of the lines of weaknesses that gave him the courage to start out on his wild journey upwards that was to yield one of Europe’s best and most sought after prizes."


so writes Jack Geldard in his description of the Brandler-Hasse - F7a+/E5, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites complete with photo-diagram, route description and approach details.

Read and view this article here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=459
 Tyler 08 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

that's very good
 Alun 08 Jun 2007
In reply to Tyler:
> that's very good

Agreed. More like this would be lovely!
 Moacs 09 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Excellent.

I can dream....

J
mac_climb 09 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: What kind of nutter free climbs that?
 sutty 09 Jun 2007
In reply to mac_climb:

This one soloed it;

http://www.huberbuam.de/archiv/e_index.htm

Scroll down for pictures
 abarro81 09 Jun 2007
In reply to mac_climb: somebody who's good at climbing.
 abarro81 09 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: cool article, more please!
 Jamie B 09 Jun 2007
In reply to mac_climb:

> What kind of nutter free climbs that?

Are you perhaps confusing free-climbing with solo climbing?

 Enty 09 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Awesome, and in the realms of do-ability for the slightly above average punter.
I know a few Burnley tick-list's that that is on for July!!!

The Ent
 IanJackson 09 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Great Article. Amazing route, i watched a team on Brandler Hasse last summer. they looked like flies stuck on glass. There's nothing to describe the blankness of this face. The easiest way up is E2/3 and that's going up the chimneys and cracks on the right.

Its that steep people bass jump of the ringband.

Keep them coming mate!

Ian.

 IanJackson 09 Jun 2007
In reply to Jamie B.: Looking up at that face makes me feel sick with fear.

You are a nutter to free climb it.

One day!
OP Michael Ryan 09 Jun 2007
In reply to IanJackson:

Folks.

Big thank you to Jack, who wrote and illustrated the article....and did the route!

It's great when we get sent quality stuff, and there has been quite a few recently.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/

Much appreciated.

Ents......did Rad/Jerry/Terry/Dave do the BH?

Mick
 Jamie B 10 Jun 2007
In reply to IanJackson:

You are also confusing free climbing with solo climbing.

I am indeed a nutter, but not one who will free the Brandler-Hasse any day soon.
 abarro81 10 Jun 2007
In reply to IanJackson: if it's 7a+ and E5 then its gonna be reasonably safe, so ability rather than boldness would surely be the limiting factor for most people...
 IanJackson 11 Jun 2007
In reply to Jamie B.: oh am i...
In reply to IanJackson:
Well, we can all dream I suppose, brilliant photos and story, but for your average weekend punter like me, the good news is that this part of the Dolomites is rich in via ferrata routes, with fixed gear to cover the vertical bits and some spectacular exposures. Happy memories of sun-kissed days and incredibly fast ascents. And a nice little walk around these three spectacular spires, they look even more awesome in the flesh.

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