UKC

JOHNNY LIVE ON ROCKTALK 6.30pm

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jude calvert-toulmin 14 Jun 2001
Please see Jonathan's johnny thread for background questions. Johnny will be answering questions on this thread at 6.30pm (we hope!) I've set up a new thread just for the benefit of those who haven't seen Jonathan's thread.
almost sane 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
eh, who is "Johnny"?
jude calvert-toulmin 14 Jun 2001
phew. he made it. he's having some pizza in the garden with Airlee and the kids at the mo OK?
andy r 14 Jun 2001
In reply to almost sane: id guess she means johnny dawes, as someone said it would be nice to see an interview of him
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
hello is there anybody out there?
In reply to andy r:

So what's the first question, how's it going to be asked, and how will we know it's JD answering?

OK: Ed Douglas's third initial is your password, JD - needed to prove your identity.

(That can be the first question, if you like.)

Charles
Graham 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:

Do you think Mark Edwards' achievements are under acknowledged?

G
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor: how the hell do i know that?!
andy r 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes: hey johnny

errr, right i guess your waiting for a question so...

are you still working that wizard ridge?? looked a little bit on the tricky side on hard grit! do you think it will go in the near future or is it a more long term thing?
Graham 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:

Do you believe John Dunne led Parthian Shot?

G
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Graham: i don't believe it, no.
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to andy r: I know the moves on it and my shoulder's injured and I'm limited by hum-drum day to day stuff. can't really get fit to do it.
andy r 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes: so is that a no full stop or a no for the mean time?
In reply to johnny dawes:

You mean he didn't initial every book at school? You didn't notice it? Blimey. First letter of the school then.

And: best route you didn't climb but someone else did.

Charles

Graham 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:

Mark Edwards? Hard done by, or a brat?

G
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
in reply to jon reed:

re "where are the holds on smoked salmon?"

the holds are in your body and only your imagination will get them out

(airlie, who is here to de-cheese johnny's answers, chokes "that's so heavily spread I can't de-cheese it")
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor: "U"

Careless Torque.
In reply to johnny dawes:

More questions than you can type replies to, I bet. It's like being on the end of a phone line with a big delay. Persevere though.

What do you think of this medium? Is there anything the Net can bring to climbing? Or vice-versa?

Charles
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Graham: I once went climbing with him and I was really out of condition and I was 11 stone, a stone and a half more than normal and he put me on something that was really dangerous for me, it was only E5 but really crumbly granite. But his Mum makes a really good breakfast.
john 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:

Johnny, you were saying about five years ago that we were going to see some really interesting things happening on grit with people bringing limestone finger strength on to it. Do you feel that's happened?

And, what are the rules for this hopping up routes business? Only one leg? The other knee? No elbows, I take it?
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Graham: it always strikes me as strange when you don't come across some of the well-known names on the crag.

airlie says "you're not come across him at stanage in the evening though are you johnny considering that he lives in Cornwall"

If he wanted to improve his climbing as much as possible and see how he's doing Wales, The Peak and The Lakes are really good places to climb and get an idea of what other climbers are doing. Having said that it's totally true that I don't go to the Lakes or Cornwall much , I'm Peak and Wales-centric cause the climbs there are my favourites.
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to john: the rules for hopping. OK. the rules are, just hop. no knees, flailing arms allowed. no elbows.

re your first question I feel limestone has increased power but grip is the precious commodity on these routes and to develop more grip as and when it's needed requires speeding up the unconscious I suppose. To do this you need to go on one my workshops.

(everyone in the room cracks up)

Before they go up in price.

Graham 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:

Why don't you believe John Dunne led Parthian Shot?

G

johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Graham: Gut reaction. Big gut reaction. Photos and description were at odds at the time. I don't know, he just didn't do the fu*&ing route. I can tell.
john 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:

Equilibrium. Big step forward or over-hyped?
Graham 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:

Thank you. I'm off climbing.

G
paul heathcote 14 Jun 2001
Johnny:

what do you reckon about Jerry M using Pof on grit

does it happen, does it matter??

PAUL

johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC editor: re: "More questions than you can type replies to, I bet. It's like being on the end of a phone line with a big delay. Persevere though.

What do you think of this medium? Is there anything the Net can bring to climbing? Or vice-versa?"

Climbers are an intelligent bunch but seem quite fearful. I wonder what climbers world-wide could achieve on a social level. The time is surely ripe to take control of organising everything so it's dead easy, cheap, and good fun. We have too much choice for the trees or whatever. The ideas I've got for my site are just waiting for me to get on with it.

johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to john: re Equilibrium. Big step forward or over-hyped?

Equilibrium I first tried in 1984. It is a very deceptive climb. Insecure but short and powerful.

Martin says "Bit like yourself Johnny"

For Neil to do it was very inspired. It's interesting that Ben who reckons he's really good hadn't got the balls to do the route even though it's only two moves if you're tall.

Airlie says "Killing three birds with one stone"

OP mark 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes: do you train for climbing or just climb to keep fit?
paul heathcote 14 Jun 2001
Johnny:

ever been surfing?

if not why not? i reckon you might have the balance

PAUL
john 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:

So which, say, three climbers out there at the moment do you find the most impressive?

 Mick Dewsbury 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:
You've been at the top of the ladder longer than most, so I was wondering if you can see the ceiling yet regarding the physically possible? Surely we must now be at the stage of cultivating sky-hook strength fingernails? I don't know, how does it look from where you are?
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to paul heathcote: with respect to Jerry M using Pof on grit.

The crags are looking terrible. I feel uncomfortable climbing at them these days.
I feel sorry that the enthusiasm I put into loving the crag has resulted in so more people climbing. There needs to be a greater respect for the rock. It is not Saturday Night Lager it is key to the door champagne.

Pof on grit is another example of putting ego in front of love. Pof doesn't work on grit anyway, yet in actual fact on holds which are already wearing away it would help to bind the rock. The trouble is I'm yet to meet anybody who isn't an occasional arse-hole. We all need to start loving the rock more. Every time you use a foothold if you care about the rock's patina being worn out you are more likely to stay in contact with the rock since you are caring both for yourself and the rock from which we came in any case.
Stu 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:What did the Cuntstable say to you in Trafalgar Sqr after you came down from Nelsons Colum?

Stu
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to paul heathcote: Went surfing at Hell's Mouth. The climbers I was with Noel Crane and Adam Wainwright picked a different wave. I followed the surfers and they told me when to paddle. Kept it straight and mantled 6B/C. Got it second try. Stood for a while, checked to see if my mates saw and fell off.
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to paul heathcote: I learnt to surf on the same surf board as Crispin Waddy, Adam Wainwright and Trevor Hodgson learnt on. A 6ft 6" victory.
paul heathcote 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:

nice one

Paul
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to john: re which three climbers:

Leo impresses me. Leo's efforts in Yosemite. El Cap with one fall and I suppose that amazing problem that Fred Nicole's just done that's on the back of the magazines seems really beautiful. It's an interesting question because I don't see anything that doesn't involve training or travelling. I don't see people doing new things by new techniques, there are no "Ollie's". The really magically difficult climbs will come when people can make holds at will without thinking it through and being there when the climbs are ready for them. Malcom Smith impresses me. He really loves it all. And doesn't waste fuel to achieve his satisfaction.
BrianT 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: Johnny, did you brush off Redheads painting from up on Cloggy's great wall. Lot of uncertainty re. what's happened to it.
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Stu: re trafalgar square.

We dropped a friend 3 and a half from the top and I was discussing it with the policeman. I then went on to discuss what a fantastic route it was. "Absolutely Fabulous" E7 6C 5a. The second pitch the crux. They said we were quicker than the previous lot. "We had to wait 4 hours for them". That was the bloke who got his rope got, Joe Simpson.
Alex 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:
Hi. Apologies if this is common knowledge to most people, but here goes...

What age were you when you first began climbing properly and
what kind of grades were you climbing in your first couple of years?

Thanks.
Kev Wynne 14 Jun 2001
Over the years you have been portrayed as an odd-ball. Is this an image that you have cynically cultivated - or are you just really weird?

Kev
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to BrianT: no, the Scottish twins did.
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Brian T. sorry not the Scottish twins, one of the South Wales twins.
BrianT 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes: You once knew an old school friend of mine; Craig Smith. Don't know if you knew him well, but don't suppose you have any idea what he's doing these days?
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Kev Wynne: I have problems with developing a consistent line of thought. People find me hard to follow (on and off the rock
. How weird would you say you were?
Philip 14 Jun 2001
Johnny, did you enjoy the piss up with Oxford Uni MC and are you up for another one next term? (I'm currently looking at the poster of Cloggy which you signed for Huw)
john 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:

This is kind of Jon R's question, but: when you look at End of the Affair today (top-roped, one way or another, by every man and his dog, headpointed over a winter by lots of people, etc.) do you feel sad? Or proud to have been responsible for something so popular? Or what?
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Mick Dewsbury:

When you can't hang on a hold but only just, it's possible to hang on the hold by using the process of jugification. If you swing your centre of gravity at the right time the hold can be made momentarily good enough. Really fast Crouching Tiger type movement can render any piece of rock into a contextual hold if rotational energy is used. Check-out the martial art of Bagua.

There are also tales of Tai-Chi masters who are able to make themselves very light. At times when I have been fully immersed I have been able to be much stronger than I am physically. I believe desire and familiarity with the crags's rhythms can untap super-normal performance. This is why I climb. To find out what I really am.
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to BrianT: Craig is lecturing at Manchester University in nutrition. We were full time buddies for a while. I remember one time he pointed out to me that he'd become pumped. Send him my love if you get in touch. The last time I talked to him I felt a little distant but he's special to me.
Kev Wynne 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes: Compared to you Mr Dawes, I'm as straight laced as a Sunday tea dance (mind you I hear from my nNan that they can get a bit racy).
By the way, on the Stone Monkey video when Bob D gave you loads of slack on offspring, and you nearly hit the deck - did you hit him? I've always wondered! I bet you did.

Kev
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Kev Wynne: No I didnt hit him which really is a sign of complete madness
 Mick Dewsbury 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:
Yes, certain Masters of the Arts believe weightlessness may be achieved through perfect balance. Did I detect these influences on your FA of Braille Trail?
Al Evans 14 Jun 2001
Johnny what did you think to the BRYCS, do you like Buffy, when are you going to get your web site updated?
The Men In White Coats 14 Jun 2001
What's the largest library you can't go in?

Who's watching who?
jude calvert-toulmin 14 Jun 2001
Johnny's just having a break and so am i, bloody exhausting typing this fast. Johnny and Mart are now intent on thrashing the kids at "Buccaneer", the pirate board game. and Paul Mitchell has arrived as well and needs a cuppa.

Johnny will be back at 9pm to answer more questions.

Stu 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: I know you love Grit and Wales, do you ever go to Spain/France and just climb for fun?

I saw the French 8B video with Ben and Jerry, was that the last time?

Stu
Kev Wynne 14 Jun 2001
Who do you think are the most influential people in the climbing world at the mo'. Please don't say some faceless money mongerer pulling the strings of a few famous cover boys and girls!

Kev
 Mick Dewsbury 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
Well don't forget to give Paul my love!...;0 )
(Typing this fast my a**e!)
BrianT 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes: I remember you saying in Stone Monkey that you were forced to kill a ladybird which was sitting on a crucial hold on the first ascent of Gaia, and that in the heightened state of awareness you were in at the time, it really upset you.
I fully understand what you meant by that but how far does consideration for the animals and plants which try and share the crag environment with us play a part in your attitude towards climbing. If you take time to explore the threads, you'll soon find evidence of a "birds get in the way and are a bloody pest" type of mentality, as if climbers have sole right to the rock. What's your take on that, in an unheightened state of mind?
Jamie B. 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:

The questions on the lips of all Rocktalk regulars:

Is top-roping OK on Foggatt slabs?

Is the SPA a true mark of competence?

Foot and Mouth: is it a conspiracy?

Are you having a go at my dog?

What's your favourite TV programme?


Thanks for gracing this crucible of climbing opinion and max respect for your inspiration and vision.

Jamie.
BrianT 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Jamie B.: And what's your favourite biscuit!!!
BrianT 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes: Cool. Nice lad, Craig. Still climb does he?
Becky 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Al Evans: Why don't u all just use msm?
It is about 10 times faster and is loads more convinent
john 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Jamie B.:

LOL

And Johnny, Jude, thanks for arranging this.
BrianT 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: Buccaneer! Ace game! Also recommended: "Exploration" (includes a climbing expedition!) and "Escape from Colditz"!
paul heathcote 14 Jun 2001
Johnny

like you i spent a bit of time at UEA Norwich, what do you think of Norfolk, HELL ON EARTH, or nice quiet place to get a way fromm it all??

PAUL
 Horse 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
Jude+Johnny

Just got to this looks great, I'll try and catch and be ready for the second installment at 9

Cheers

 Jacob Ram 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
Johnny,you have put up a few routes on southern sandstone.How do you find this as a climbing medium?
jude calvert-toulmin 14 Jun 2001
Johnny got thrashed at Buccanneer by my 10 year old daughter Jodie and has been refreshed by my home made peach and home made strawberry ice creams.
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
Spent a lot of time at Cliff Creek and Mud Bay, and trying to attack Jodie who had more firepower and hogged all the rum.
Laurie 14 Jun 2001
Id just like to take this opportunity to say that watching you climb was one of the reasons i started climbing, i cant even start to say how much respect i have for the routes you have climbed.

Anyway my question is, of all the many routes which you have put up through the years which did you find, a) the hardest, b) the most satisfying achievement, and c) your own personal all time favourite climb.

Cheers

Laurie
Dave Flanagan 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:

Hi Johnny

How many times in a year do you find yourself really (really) satisfied with your performance?
How often do you find yourself in the "zone"?
Do you know that its going to happen and what do you think influences it?

For me its about 5 times a year and seems a bit random...

Thanks Dave F
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to BrianT: My basic thing is that the environment is owned by the Peak Park. There were deer, loads of animals of all types there. Now it's being used for sheep. It's a glorified sheep farm and tourist trap in the dark peak. And the white peak is put over to open-cast mining. I once met a farmer who had sold his land to a miner and now there is no land there. I remember wallaby at The Roaches from the Victorian Zoo. They're dead too. Why can't we have more animals and plant lots of fruit trees?
dan evans 14 Jun 2001
question for johnny dawes
do you think climbing is art. and have you ever tryed hale bopp in fontainbleu and whats the hardest dyno you know of.


dan
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Jamie B.: Foot and Mouth:

they asked questions about how much wood was available 3 weeks before the f&m outbreak was announced.

fave tv programme: touring cars.

is top roping ok on frogatt: it's more fun to wait and solo it; it's possible to do them without your hands. artless great slab is a possible no-hands climb so maybe use your hands instead of a rope.
neil 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: hi johnny i just moved from sheffield, dont ask why, but im near the sand stone now i climb pretty hard at about 8a+ i heard you done some routes down here and my question is do you rate the sandstone as a venue and would you compair it to the peaks
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Laurie:
a) my longest link on wizard ridge 8C+
b) master's edge on the left with my right hand
c) my attempt on soloing the troll ryngen in Norway.

thanks for your kind words.
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to neil: I think you probably know which is my favourite crag. It would be good to buy it one day and only allow the very light and sensitive to climb it. Sandstone is the most exacting and challenging rock to climb in control. The rock's doing it's own dyno whilst you do yours.
Kev Wynne 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
Johnny,
Do you think that the History and heritage of climbing is important. Do you think that these things are being lost in the wake of Climbing wall culture.

Kev
Laurie 14 Jun 2001
Credit where credits due

Just one more

Just wondered what the rest of your climbing life holds for you, do you still get the same buzz from new routes, or are you just more bothered about enjoying yourself now, do u have any climbing or indeed mountaineering ambitions that you hope to achieve?

Laurie

Oh yes and why am i so crap? Lol
 Horse 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Laurie:

Johnny

At last got the Boss off the phone.

Does our climbing history and tradition matter in the modern world of walls and convenience climbing in the peak? Or is it just making the move or doing the route that matters?


neil 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: johny buy the way you inspired me to climb the way i do after seing stone monkey and best forgoten art well what can i say and watching your classes atthe edge you inspire me alot and no dought many others, have you any future projects and whens the next vid i need more insperation mate
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to dan evans: re: do you think climbing is art.

everything is expressing itself all the time. it is the timeliness of the expression and kindred spirit which is made obvious by the expression which determines the potency of the art, in my view. climbing is an experience of the moment where the moment rests on years of personal development and all time in developing the basis for the moment.

if rock had been designed by an artist his works would be priceless. slate has its own rhythm that smacks of the pressure involved in its making and limestone feels like a load of dead molluscs to climb and attracts the same

I have not tried hale bopp in font though i prefer mine of the same name at high rocks.

The hardest dyno i have done is in my imagination. As i go to sleep knowing what the move involves. it's complexity grows of it's own accord to satisfy me.
johnny dawes 14 Jun 2001
In reply to Laurie:

I'm really interested in developing my teaching to make it available globally. I intend to offer slabby pricing and moves to enable people to develop their own love of climbing more and to make sufficient money to develop a racing car built from vegetables. to do this i need to build a website better than rocktalk, please contact me to tell me what you would like on the site and how to afford to build it. goodnight. thank you all for your support.
Laurie 14 Jun 2001
Cheers for yur time

Cheers Jude for setting this up

Laurie
dan evans 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes: thanks for answering.
you should try halle bopp it's a really nice rock. whats the one you did like.

and 9b what do you think.

me and fred talked alot about you when we came to england last year

dan
 Michael Ryan 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:

i'm off surfing noW johnny. aNY ADVICE, THE BABY IS CRYING.

MICK

TARRARA
Stu 14 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: aS YOU MISSED SOME OUT!
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: I know you love Grit and Wales, do you ever go to Spain/France and just climb for fun?

I saw the French 8B video with Ben and Jerry, was that the last time?

Stu
BrianT 14 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes: I agree. It's like the farmers who say "we are the custodians of the land. What would happen to it if we weren't here anymore?" Well, nothing against the farmers per se, but what would happen (presuming the government bodies responsible didn't allow it to be sold for development) is that it'd revert to heath, scrub and forest, and a hell of a lot more wildlife would colonise it. The farmland may look pretty (in places) but the land left fallow would eventually look more so.
Michaelw 15 Jun 2001
In reply to johnny dawes:
didn't Boris Karloff go there too?
jude calvert-toulmin 15 Jun 2001
i just wanted to say thanx to everyone for joining in last night. it would've been a duffer if no-one had turned up to ask questions. johnny realised this morning that he'd only answered about half the questions but he was talking non-stop and i only type about 50 w.p.m so it was pretty full-on and knackering. but it was a top laugh so thanx again for joining in.

hey, charles arthur emailed me last night and said it's the first time that a rocktalk thread has been newsworthy and he's put a little news piece on the UKClimbing news page. Even the biscuit thread didn't get on that (johnny likes abbey crunch and digestives btw)
jct 16 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: well we are all set to do a JOHN DUNNE LIVE in a few weeks. If any other climbers want to do a live appearance and field questions from all over the world live on the net then email me. You have to be really famous though I won't blur my digits on the keyboard for anything less than a stack load of E numbers.

By the way, will somebody who knows him tell El Waddyo of Wales that he can do a rock 'n' surf one when he's next in Sheff if he fancies it. He won't get pizza though. He'll get sushi. I know how much he likes sticking fish in his gob from that Thailand photo many OTE issues ago
knackered wrist 17 Jun 2001
In reply to jct:

I don't think the Waddy's famous enough for this board Jude - he aint a cover boy (he should be though...phwoar!)
jude calvert-toulmin 17 Jun 2001
In reply to knackered wrist: very funny. are you gay? of course he's famous enough. not only for climbing, surfing and designing walls, but he has the extremely dubious honour of inspiring me to write my first article for OTE. which led to me coming to Rocktalk. which led to the interview on this thread. so basically, Crispin Waddy's a superstar (he's also a bit of a larf IMHO)(plus drop dead gorgeous) who are you anyway knackered wrist?
jude calvert-toulmin 17 Jun 2001
In reply to knackered wrist: as i said on the other thread, your email address is the one for ben and jerry's climbing wall. who are you? cause you're not ben or jerry.
max 19 Jun 2001
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: Jude, a friend told me about this interview, I was climbing in Italy so I missed it unfortunately, but what a flash of inspiration to set this up. I'm really gutted I missed it now. The climbing was great though!
Al Evans 19 Jun 2001
In reply to max:Max,you are so grovelly to JCT.
Al Evans 19 Jun 2001
In reply to max: Where did you go?
Jonathan 19 Jun 2001
In reply to Al Evans: Trying to get in JCT's knickers by the sounds of it
Al Evans 19 Jun 2001
In reply to Jonathan: You'll never know! LOL.
Jonathan 19 Jun 2001
In reply to Al Evans: On the other hand ...
jude calvert-toulmin 19 Jun 2001
In reply to Al Evans. Max is "grovelly" to me because he's met me and he thinks i'm a thoroughly top bit of totty. plus his girlfriend likes me, always the acid test. women who get the seal of approval from other women, and not only men, are the only women worth bothering about aren't they lucy, carolyn, jenny et al anyway, i love it when he grovels. continue at your own pace Max

Al, what do you mean, saying to Jonathan "you'll never know". He's coming over to Sheff in 16 days! Then he will know all the sordid details of my wildly extravagent star-studded lifestyle lol!

yeah right. washing up at the internet cafe. ah, but Johnny Dawes did pop in for a chinwag. he he he.

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