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Is there a grade beyond which you have no real desire to climb?
Personally, I'd like to be consistant at E1 rather than having to search out the soft touches which end up down graded to HVS. Sure, I'd climb an E2 if I thought it would go but I really don't feel any drive towards that grade.
Is there anyone who's got consistant at a grade and not wished to push onto the next? Perhaps VS would be a natural choice, but I'm curious if anyone feels the same about other grades.
Personally, I'd like to be consistant at E1 rather than having to search out the soft touches which end up down graded to HVS. Sure, I'd climb an E2 if I thought it would go but I really don't feel any drive towards that grade.
Is there anyone who's got consistant at a grade and not wished to push onto the next? Perhaps VS would be a natural choice, but I'm curious if anyone feels the same about other grades.
In reply to JLS: I'd be happy to be able to climb at the maximum grade I used to.
In reply to JLS: Considering how little I've climbed in the last 4 months, I'd be content with a mod.
In reply to JLS:
i think if I could grapple on sight at e3 5c, I would be able to rock up at most crags and get on with a good day out. Sandwich, cake, flask and good company, permitting.
i think if I could grapple on sight at e3 5c, I would be able to rock up at most crags and get on with a good day out. Sandwich, cake, flask and good company, permitting.
In reply to dave wearing:
ditto
> (In reply to JLS)
>
> V.S. will do nicely for me, interesting but not too "fill your pants."
>
> V.S. will do nicely for me, interesting but not too "fill your pants."
ditto
In reply to Al Evans:
When I started climbing again I was firmly of the opinion that 1- I would never get back to my previous best and 2- I didn't care if I did or not. However, a few months in and I don't feel like that any more (despite the fact that I now get injured easily - getting older is rubbish).
I'd like to say that getting back to my previous maximum grade would satisfy me but I know that if I do make it there I will want to climb harder.
> (In reply to JLS) I'd be happy to be able to climb at the maximum grade I used to.
When I started climbing again I was firmly of the opinion that 1- I would never get back to my previous best and 2- I didn't care if I did or not. However, a few months in and I don't feel like that any more (despite the fact that I now get injured easily - getting older is rubbish).
I'd like to say that getting back to my previous maximum grade would satisfy me but I know that if I do make it there I will want to climb harder.
In reply to JimR:
Only two?
I used to think that I'd be perfectly happy reaching VS. Then I realised that wasn't that hard really, and that there were loads of attractive-looking HVSs about.......
I'm sure this process will continue until my complete lack of talent catches up with me. I'm sure that even if I were ever to reach something like E6 onsight I'd still find a list of E7s to drool over...........
AJM
Only two?
I used to think that I'd be perfectly happy reaching VS. Then I realised that wasn't that hard really, and that there were loads of attractive-looking HVSs about.......
I'm sure this process will continue until my complete lack of talent catches up with me. I'm sure that even if I were ever to reach something like E6 onsight I'd still find a list of E7s to drool over...........
AJM
In reply to JLS:
7a
LOL!!!! like I'm ever going to get there, but I suppose I can dream (of a brain, body and mental attitude switch).
7a
LOL!!!! like I'm ever going to get there, but I suppose I can dream (of a brain, body and mental attitude switch).
In reply to AJM:
exactly .. its a moving target!
> (In reply to JimR)
>
> Only two?
>
> I used to think that I'd be perfectly happy reaching VS. Then I realised that wasn't that hard really, and that there were loads of attractive-looking HVSs about.......
>
> I'm sure this process will continue until my complete lack of talent catches up with me. I'm sure that even if I were ever to reach something like E6 onsight I'd still find a list of E7s to drool over...........
>
> AJM
>
> Only two?
>
> I used to think that I'd be perfectly happy reaching VS. Then I realised that wasn't that hard really, and that there were loads of attractive-looking HVSs about.......
>
> I'm sure this process will continue until my complete lack of talent catches up with me. I'm sure that even if I were ever to reach something like E6 onsight I'd still find a list of E7s to drool over...........
>
> AJM
exactly .. its a moving target!
In reply to JLS:
I reckon I would be content with one day being steady at UK 5c - ie. solid at E2 with the occasional E3.
There's a load of absolutely awesome looking aspirational climbs at E2/E3 it would be fantastic to one day get on.
The Moon, Quartz Icicle, T-Rex, Out Of The Blue, Dreadnought, The Rasp, Quietus, Swastika, Ichabod...
I suppose part of their attraction is that the thought of doing them right now seems pretty impossible, yet it's not unrealistic to aspire to one day doing them. E5 or E6 just seems like fantasy land though...
I reckon I would be content with one day being steady at UK 5c - ie. solid at E2 with the occasional E3.
There's a load of absolutely awesome looking aspirational climbs at E2/E3 it would be fantastic to one day get on.
The Moon, Quartz Icicle, T-Rex, Out Of The Blue, Dreadnought, The Rasp, Quietus, Swastika, Ichabod...
I suppose part of their attraction is that the thought of doing them right now seems pretty impossible, yet it's not unrealistic to aspire to one day doing them. E5 or E6 just seems like fantasy land though...
In reply to seagull: Seagull, at 32 I was still pushing my grade, many people don't even start until then. I'm talking about getting back to my old (very) best of E5 at my current age,just short of 60, after an enforced 18 month lay off. I think I have loads of scope there
In reply to Al Evans:
It's all relative! I've had over 10 years off climbing and certainly feel old. And although the feeling of being past it is becoming less and less I still know that I am - in my terms.
For you to get back to E5 and for me to finish off the 8c i nearly did 15 years ago are probably similarly difficult goals. But far from impossible with a bit of luck in the injury / health department.
Good luck!
It's all relative! I've had over 10 years off climbing and certainly feel old. And although the feeling of being past it is becoming less and less I still know that I am - in my terms.
For you to get back to E5 and for me to finish off the 8c i nearly did 15 years ago are probably similarly difficult goals. But far from impossible with a bit of luck in the injury / health department.
Good luck!
In reply to JLS:
I reckon being comfortable at E2 would mean there would always be a plethora of great climbs to do at any crag, however as I'm just about breaking into VS I'm thinking thats some way off....
I'd like to boulder at V6/7 too, and sport climb 7a comfortably, but of the three I'm closest to the bouldering which means the fact that I can't do 7a sport and wet myself on anything above VS highlights how much 'the fear' dominates my climbing!
I reckon being comfortable at E2 would mean there would always be a plethora of great climbs to do at any crag, however as I'm just about breaking into VS I'm thinking thats some way off....
I'd like to boulder at V6/7 too, and sport climb 7a comfortably, but of the three I'm closest to the bouldering which means the fact that I can't do 7a sport and wet myself on anything above VS highlights how much 'the fear' dominates my climbing!
In reply to Al Evans:
It is not the grade we want, it is being able to do the routes we want at any grade we are up to.
You get doing VS then see something at HVS or E1 you fancy and just go for it, sod the grade, it is the route that matters. If you want the route and are climbing within a grade of it 9 out of 10 times you can do it, even if it does seem hard.
It is not the grade we want, it is being able to do the routes we want at any grade we are up to.
You get doing VS then see something at HVS or E1 you fancy and just go for it, sod the grade, it is the route that matters. If you want the route and are climbing within a grade of it 9 out of 10 times you can do it, even if it does seem hard.
In reply to CJD:
I agree, I was going to say I'd be content at font 8A, but then I realised if I ever climbed font 8A i would want to try an 8A+ ...
> (In reply to JLS)
>
> whichever grade is one above what I'm currently managing
>
> whichever grade is one above what I'm currently managing
I agree, I was going to say I'd be content at font 8A, but then I realised if I ever climbed font 8A i would want to try an 8A+ ...
In reply to JLS:
In the short term I'd quite like to be able to lead severe on grit (if now is anything to go by I'd be able to lead harder than that on other rock types). I reckon being able to lead VS comfortably on most rock types would give you a really good scope of stuff to go at. I suspect that if I do ever get to that I'll want to push my grade more but, at the moment, that seems like a very big goal that will be hard to attain so I don't tend to think much beyond it.
In the short term I'd quite like to be able to lead severe on grit (if now is anything to go by I'd be able to lead harder than that on other rock types). I reckon being able to lead VS comfortably on most rock types would give you a really good scope of stuff to go at. I suspect that if I do ever get to that I'll want to push my grade more but, at the moment, that seems like a very big goal that will be hard to attain so I don't tend to think much beyond it.
In reply to JLS:
hmm... am currently leading E1-3ish i think if i can get solid on E3 and pushing E5 on a good day with the right route then ill be a happy man!
hmm... am currently leading E1-3ish i think if i can get solid on E3 and pushing E5 on a good day with the right route then ill be a happy man!
In reply to JLS:
Hard enough to be able to be capable of climbing all the routes on my wishlist, I suppose! E1/2 would be fine. Solid at VS so I could do VS mountain routes would be fab. Solid at HVS would be fantastic. Ehhhh be a while yet!!
Hard enough to be able to be capable of climbing all the routes on my wishlist, I suppose! E1/2 would be fine. Solid at VS so I could do VS mountain routes would be fab. Solid at HVS would be fantastic. Ehhhh be a while yet!!
In reply to JLS: Leading and moving up a grade has been a battle for me every step of the way, cos I'm such a scaredy cat. The thought of falling and hurting myself holds me back alot. When I first started climbing I thought I'd never be able to lead anything, but I really wanted to try and I did it. Then when I started leading I could never imagine leading beyond V.Diff cos it would just be too scary, but after a while I felt confident and comfortable enough on V.Diff to think about moving up. So my thing was that I could never imagine being good enough to lead to lead VS. But once reaching leading severe I knew that with patience, and taking my time thro the grades to build up my confidence that VS was possible. I did lead a few HS's and one VS before my injury put paid to climbing. And I still sorta feel that once I'm better and get fit again, and out climbing regularly, that once I get to the stage of leading VS comfortably that I'll be happy not going any further. Because there is a lifetime of venues and routes, mountain and single pitch at VS to keep me going. But having climbed for 2 and a bit years now, I reckon that when I do get comfortable at VS, I will more than likely want to try something harder, because there are so many inspiring routes out there.
In reply to JLS:
Realistically I probably wont ever be 'content' at a grade, the goalposts just keep moving.
Currently I'd like to be able to onsight reasonably reliably at E4. It's not an out of this world dream. Most importantly it would give me access to a huge number of quality E1/2/3 routes that are still a bit out of my league, routes where I'd want to have a little bit in reserve.
jk
jk
Realistically I probably wont ever be 'content' at a grade, the goalposts just keep moving.
Currently I'd like to be able to onsight reasonably reliably at E4. It's not an out of this world dream. Most importantly it would give me access to a huge number of quality E1/2/3 routes that are still a bit out of my league, routes where I'd want to have a little bit in reserve.
jk
jk
In reply to JLS: At least f9b, still a few months away from achieving that though.
In reply to CJD:
actually, I was talking about this the other day and I said that I'd like to be solid at VS. Any VS including Scottish VS. That'd mean capable at E2 then - ha ha!
but yeah, I'll stick with my original answer for now.
actually, I was talking about this the other day and I said that I'd like to be solid at VS. Any VS including Scottish VS. That'd mean capable at E2 then - ha ha!
but yeah, I'll stick with my original answer for now.
In reply to JLS:
The one that corresponds to a challenge I can do but is at my limit.
For anyone who seeks a challenge, I fail to see how it could be otherwise.
The one that corresponds to a challenge I can do but is at my limit.
For anyone who seeks a challenge, I fail to see how it could be otherwise.
In reply to CJD:
>"Any VS"
I think the best any of us can hope for is solid at 'most' VS... I've looked at a good few VS in the Peak and thought to myself, "I'll just have a look at that E1 over there instead."
>"Any VS"
I think the best any of us can hope for is solid at 'most' VS... I've looked at a good few VS in the Peak and thought to myself, "I'll just have a look at that E1 over there instead."
In reply to Fiend:
Yep. Can't imagine being content to stick at a level knowing that if I tried a bit harder I could reach a higher one.
And (and this is particularly true with bouldering) the harder problems / routes tend to be the best ones too. Not all the time obviously but in general.
Yep. Can't imagine being content to stick at a level knowing that if I tried a bit harder I could reach a higher one.
And (and this is particularly true with bouldering) the harder problems / routes tend to be the best ones too. Not all the time obviously but in general.
In reply to JLS:
I'd like to be solid at E2. That's about what I can manage when going well, I'm psyched up, and I'm on a route that suits me (i.e. not too steep or thuggy). It'd be great to be able to do that whatever the rock, the style, or situation. Seems there's so much classic stuff at that grade.
I'd like to be solid at E2. That's about what I can manage when going well, I'm psyched up, and I'm on a route that suits me (i.e. not too steep or thuggy). It'd be great to be able to do that whatever the rock, the style, or situation. Seems there's so much classic stuff at that grade.
In reply to Jimmy D:
Oh and if I were I don't think I'd be that bothered for pushing on above that. I just imagine beyond that it would all be too much effort and stress.
> (In reply to JLS)
>
> I'd like to be solid at E2.
>
> I'd like to be solid at E2.
Oh and if I were I don't think I'd be that bothered for pushing on above that. I just imagine beyond that it would all be too much effort and stress.
In reply to Fiend:
>"For anyone who seeks a challenge, I fail to see how it could be otherwise."
I want everything to be easy!
I get most satisfaction from effortless movement over rock, there comes a point when the pain of pulling hard out-weights the enjoyment of the climbing. Of course I'm generalising, I do pull at my limit but it's not to climb the next harder grade, it's just to make the grade I'm at easier.
>"For anyone who seeks a challenge, I fail to see how it could be otherwise."
I want everything to be easy!
I get most satisfaction from effortless movement over rock, there comes a point when the pain of pulling hard out-weights the enjoyment of the climbing. Of course I'm generalising, I do pull at my limit but it's not to climb the next harder grade, it's just to make the grade I'm at easier.
In reply to JLS:
Solid E2 would do me fine .Would mean I could lead through on E3s if I picked the pitches right .E2 opens up a whole world of classics .
I'm hoping if I retire early and try really hard and get close to that .I'd be damn chuffed if I managed that in my fifties.
Solid E2 would do me fine .Would mean I could lead through on E3s if I picked the pitches right .E2 opens up a whole world of classics .
I'm hoping if I retire early and try really hard and get close to that .I'd be damn chuffed if I managed that in my fifties.
In reply to JLS:
Onsight up to F6b and redpoint F6c(+ or even F7a) when on bolts, and the same tehcnicality when on natural protection (OS ~E2/E3 and RP E4). That would open up so many routes all around the world to climb...
At the moment, I'm happy if I can OS F5a and VS... Since my rebuilt knee doesn't like twisting and I can't really fall at the moment.
Onsight up to F6b and redpoint F6c(+ or even F7a) when on bolts, and the same tehcnicality when on natural protection (OS ~E2/E3 and RP E4). That would open up so many routes all around the world to climb...
At the moment, I'm happy if I can OS F5a and VS... Since my rebuilt knee doesn't like twisting and I can't really fall at the moment.
In reply to JLS:
I'm actually pretty happy being "happy at VS" since it means I have a whole load of brilliant mountain routes to go at (No idea why, but VS just seems great for mountains). Probably the next grade I would be content at would be E2 since there are a lot of E2s that I really really want to do.
I'm actually pretty happy being "happy at VS" since it means I have a whole load of brilliant mountain routes to go at (No idea why, but VS just seems great for mountains). Probably the next grade I would be content at would be E2 since there are a lot of E2s that I really really want to do.
In reply to JLS:
Definaltely solid at E2 would be perfect for me.
Shiboleth and Torro count as my upper aspirations (without drink fuelled egotistical nonsense!)
Definaltely solid at E2 would be perfect for me.
Shiboleth and Torro count as my upper aspirations (without drink fuelled egotistical nonsense!)
In reply to JLS:
If I could get back to leading E2 again I'd be happy. However due to injury and personal circumstances I haven't lead that for at least two years now. So I've been thinking that so long as I can climb HVS I should be satisfied as there are a lot of high quality HVSs out there.
But I also know really that I'm not really happy with that and I do want to climb E2. And if somehow I do get up to climbing E2 again, I'm sure I'll start thinking about E3s.
If I could get back to leading E2 again I'd be happy. However due to injury and personal circumstances I haven't lead that for at least two years now. So I've been thinking that so long as I can climb HVS I should be satisfied as there are a lot of high quality HVSs out there.
But I also know really that I'm not really happy with that and I do want to climb E2. And if somehow I do get up to climbing E2 again, I'm sure I'll start thinking about E3s.
In reply to JLS:
I guess I'd like to do something rather similar, i.e. get solid on E1/E2 when on trad. Sports the aim (read: dream) would be consistently on-sighting 6b/6b+ and bagging a 7a red-point.
Time scale, another couple of years if I manage to shake of a recurring shoulder niggle (just starting to break into HVS territory, yet to on-sight a 6a)
I guess I'd like to do something rather similar, i.e. get solid on E1/E2 when on trad. Sports the aim (read: dream) would be consistently on-sighting 6b/6b+ and bagging a 7a red-point.
Time scale, another couple of years if I manage to shake of a recurring shoulder niggle (just starting to break into HVS territory, yet to on-sight a 6a)
In reply to Dane:
Just checked your profile, you have done Pel, which is near the top of its grade. If you can do that sort of climbing comfortably then most HVS stuff will give you few problems, I have done easier HVS routes with less protection.
Just checked your profile, you have done Pel, which is near the top of its grade. If you can do that sort of climbing comfortably then most HVS stuff will give you few problems, I have done easier HVS routes with less protection.
In reply to JLS:
No great desire to lead harder than HVS, there are so many classics at that grade (and below). I have done a dozen E1s but I wouldn't rate my chances at better than 50/50 at that level... only failed on one HVS in the last 3 years and I'm quite happy with that. Lack of ambition? Probably.
No great desire to lead harder than HVS, there are so many classics at that grade (and below). I have done a dozen E1s but I wouldn't rate my chances at better than 50/50 at that level... only failed on one HVS in the last 3 years and I'm quite happy with that. Lack of ambition? Probably.
In reply to JLS: i will be content with font 8a
In reply to JLS:
I like climbing stuff that's hard for me so I don't know if I'd ever be content to be consistent at a certain grade unless I reached the limit of my ability to improve. But I hope that doesn't happen until I get good enough to do some of the routes on my wishlist, which optimistically has stuff up to the mid-extremes :-D
I like climbing stuff that's hard for me so I don't know if I'd ever be content to be consistent at a certain grade unless I reached the limit of my ability to improve. But I hope that doesn't happen until I get good enough to do some of the routes on my wishlist, which optimistically has stuff up to the mid-extremes :-D
In reply to JLS:
It's quite refreshing that you can post this sort of thing these days and noone says `It's not about the grades dude' which is obviously the point here.
For the record I want ot do safe E5s and not just the dangerous short bold ones, the really f*cking dangerous hard long intimidating ones too.
But I think I'm content as I am now.
It's quite refreshing that you can post this sort of thing these days and noone says `It's not about the grades dude' which is obviously the point here.
For the record I want ot do safe E5s and not just the dangerous short bold ones, the really f*cking dangerous hard long intimidating ones too.
But I think I'm content as I am now.
In reply to JLS:
Alpine long and proper TD would do for me, but then I might just think about the TD+ so it's like many people have said, the level I want to climb at is the one just above where I am at.
Alpine long and proper TD would do for me, but then I might just think about the TD+ so it's like many people have said, the level I want to climb at is the one just above where I am at.
In reply to JLS:
I tend to find that the tech grade is more important to me than the E numbers. Right now 5c feels hard but not uncomfortably or desperately so, 6a doesn't seem too far off (I can usually do the moves but not always first time) and although generally 6b still feels kind of desperate I reckon I'll get there.
Once you've cracked the tech moves and are physically fit enough to link them together for a whole route its largely head games with trad. Barring any major life changes like serious injury, starting a family or moving to somewhere there's no rock I reckon i'd be regularly leading E2 / E3 within a year or two and I'll be pleased to be climbing at that level. At the moment E4 seems a long way off but more just that I don't know how far out of reach it is than thinking i'll never get there.
Mostly I'll be happy as long as I'm challenging myself, but there's a competitive streak in me that definitely wants to be climbing harder than the average punter even if I'm not close to being best of the best.
I tend to find that the tech grade is more important to me than the E numbers. Right now 5c feels hard but not uncomfortably or desperately so, 6a doesn't seem too far off (I can usually do the moves but not always first time) and although generally 6b still feels kind of desperate I reckon I'll get there.
Once you've cracked the tech moves and are physically fit enough to link them together for a whole route its largely head games with trad. Barring any major life changes like serious injury, starting a family or moving to somewhere there's no rock I reckon i'd be regularly leading E2 / E3 within a year or two and I'll be pleased to be climbing at that level. At the moment E4 seems a long way off but more just that I don't know how far out of reach it is than thinking i'll never get there.
Mostly I'll be happy as long as I'm challenging myself, but there's a competitive streak in me that definitely wants to be climbing harder than the average punter even if I'm not close to being best of the best.
In reply to JLS:
by the end of the year I'd like to be happy on long lakes E2, and to have lead a good few E3s.
in the long term I'd like to be able to onsite E5.
by the end of the year I'd like to be happy on long lakes E2, and to have lead a good few E3s.
in the long term I'd like to be able to onsite E5.
In reply to beastofackworth:
Bet you wont be once you get there mate!
Font 8a is kind of a magic grade that most boulderers would be very happy to reach but I would wager that most (if not everyone) who has has wanted to do 8a+ etc etc.
> (In reply to JLS) i will be content with font 8a
Bet you wont be once you get there mate!
Font 8a is kind of a magic grade that most boulderers would be very happy to reach but I would wager that most (if not everyone) who has has wanted to do 8a+ etc etc.
In reply to JLS: i would like (at the moment) to be an E2 6C constant climber/ 7+ sport/ 7c indoors.
but this seems a little away yet.
but this seems a little away yet.
In reply to JLS:
I would like to get back to my pre Layla days of being okish leading vs, venturing onto some hvs & back seconding up to mid-extreme.Think its a long way off. Not enough time on t' rock any more.
No longer strong enough for the mid Es. Not got the head for leads.
Happy wi bimbling now
I would like to get back to my pre Layla days of being okish leading vs, venturing onto some hvs & back seconding up to mid-extreme.Think its a long way off. Not enough time on t' rock any more.
No longer strong enough for the mid Es. Not got the head for leads.
Happy wi bimbling now
In reply to JLS:
No real desire to push trad beyond HVS/ E1 as far as the adjectival grade goes, tech grade is a different matter.
Anything above 7b would be a massive achivement for me as far as sport goes, and I'm still a way away off that.
VS is the "best" grade. Its like a passport to bigger things. If you can climb VS anywhere, anytime, it opens up loads of possbilties.
No real desire to push trad beyond HVS/ E1 as far as the adjectival grade goes, tech grade is a different matter.
Anything above 7b would be a massive achivement for me as far as sport goes, and I'm still a way away off that.
VS is the "best" grade. Its like a passport to bigger things. If you can climb VS anywhere, anytime, it opens up loads of possbilties.
In reply to JLS:
E4.
Although the reason I climb isn't to reach E4.
> Is there a grade beyond which you have no real desire to climb?
E4.
Although the reason I climb isn't to reach E4.
In reply to cider nut:
>"E4"
You'll need to work on your Severes a bit first though. Perhaps few Vdiff leads might get your head in the right place.
>"E4"
You'll need to work on your Severes a bit first though. Perhaps few Vdiff leads might get your head in the right place.
In reply to cider nut:
For me, it's not that there is a grade I want to climb - it's more that there are specific lines that i want to climb.
The graidng system merely provides a guide as to what may or may not be possible for me at any one time.
I'm surprised that the OP says he has no real desire to push into E2 unless he thought a specific route would "go". Surely, if he spotted a perfect, beautiful line, with good gear etc, but knew it'd be really pushing it and he'd have maybe only a 20%-50% chance of success (depending on conditions/fitness etc), he'd want to try it... isn't that what it's about or am I missing something.
If we only climb things we think will "go" where's the fun? I personally like the uncertainty, the adventure of trying something that there is a good chance I can't do.
It's surely not about reching a particular grade and then bein content, unless we just want recognition from peers etc. Surely it's about climbing nice bits of rock and pushing our limits both phsyically and mentally?
For me, it's not that there is a grade I want to climb - it's more that there are specific lines that i want to climb.
The graidng system merely provides a guide as to what may or may not be possible for me at any one time.
I'm surprised that the OP says he has no real desire to push into E2 unless he thought a specific route would "go". Surely, if he spotted a perfect, beautiful line, with good gear etc, but knew it'd be really pushing it and he'd have maybe only a 20%-50% chance of success (depending on conditions/fitness etc), he'd want to try it... isn't that what it's about or am I missing something.
If we only climb things we think will "go" where's the fun? I personally like the uncertainty, the adventure of trying something that there is a good chance I can't do.
It's surely not about reching a particular grade and then bein content, unless we just want recognition from peers etc. Surely it's about climbing nice bits of rock and pushing our limits both phsyically and mentally?
In reply to 1234None:
I think plenty of people enjoy climbing well within their ability without the stress and physical strain of 'pushing' for a hard route. I know there's days (most) that I'm quite happy cruising up easy stuff without any stress.
In fact the main reason I'd like to be climbing E4 is so I'd be mostly cruising at E2 giving me stress free access to loads of great routes rather that scratching and shaking my way up them as I do now.
jk
> If we only climb things we think will "go" where's the fun? I personally like the uncertainty, the adventure of trying something that there is a good chance I can't do.
I think plenty of people enjoy climbing well within their ability without the stress and physical strain of 'pushing' for a hard route. I know there's days (most) that I'm quite happy cruising up easy stuff without any stress.
In fact the main reason I'd like to be climbing E4 is so I'd be mostly cruising at E2 giving me stress free access to loads of great routes rather that scratching and shaking my way up them as I do now.
jk
In reply to JLS:
E8 onsight, F8a onsight, F8c worked, font 8b worked. that'd do the job quite nicely, though no doubt if i got there i'd be wanting to push onto trying for F9a, E9 o/s...
E8 onsight, F8a onsight, F8c worked, font 8b worked. that'd do the job quite nicely, though no doubt if i got there i'd be wanting to push onto trying for F9a, E9 o/s...
In reply to JLS:
Just be happy to redpoint F8a before I hit 40 I reckon.
E6 would be nice but unless I seriously pull my trad finger out that aint never gonna happen.
Font 7b+ would be nice too but as soon as I got there I'd wanna do 7c then 7c+, 8a yadda yadda so when it comes to bouldering I think the answer's never!!
Just be happy to redpoint F8a before I hit 40 I reckon.
E6 would be nice but unless I seriously pull my trad finger out that aint never gonna happen.
Font 7b+ would be nice too but as soon as I got there I'd wanna do 7c then 7c+, 8a yadda yadda so when it comes to bouldering I think the answer's never!!
Has anyone who has posted managed to realise their technical bouldering grade (or very close) in thier lead climbing?
Flattening that disparity is the goal for me, and I thinks its mainly down to fitness (anerobic threshold) and mindset.
In reply to Duncan Disorderly:
Just corrected that for you :P
> E6 would be nice but unless I seriously pull my ethics finger out that aint never gonna happen.
Just corrected that for you :P
In reply to jkarran:
Yep, and my point was mainly that the Op was saying that he has no real aim to climb E2. I find that strange when being able to climb that grade opens up so many wonderful possibilities in terms of great lines/routes.
It just struck me as a bit strange to say "I'd only get on a route if i thohght I could do it". I'm not saying I push it all the time, but there are some routes I have tried and will try, because the route takes a striking line, has good moves etc etc, although conditions/my climbing on the day etc would need to be spot on for me to be in with a chance of success.
Each to his or her own, but whilst we all like to cruise sometimes, I personally get the biggest "buzz" from climbing things that I know are pushing the limit for me. I find it hard to believe that the same isn't true for most.
Yep, and my point was mainly that the Op was saying that he has no real aim to climb E2. I find that strange when being able to climb that grade opens up so many wonderful possibilities in terms of great lines/routes.
It just struck me as a bit strange to say "I'd only get on a route if i thohght I could do it". I'm not saying I push it all the time, but there are some routes I have tried and will try, because the route takes a striking line, has good moves etc etc, although conditions/my climbing on the day etc would need to be spot on for me to be in with a chance of success.
Each to his or her own, but whilst we all like to cruise sometimes, I personally get the biggest "buzz" from climbing things that I know are pushing the limit for me. I find it hard to believe that the same isn't true for most.
In reply to Burns:
Flashed bouldering... Yeah, pretty close, UK 6a.
Worked bouldering... hell no! My hardest problems take me 10s if not 100s of goes. I suppose I could put that effort into a sport route (if there were any here) but I just can't be arsed, I'd probably only get a measly 7a/+ for it anyway
jk
> Has anyone who has posted managed to realise their technical bouldering grade (or very close) in thier lead climbing?
> Flattening that disparity is the goal for me, and I thinks its mainly down to fitness (anerobic threshold) and mindset.
> Flattening that disparity is the goal for me, and I thinks its mainly down to fitness (anerobic threshold) and mindset.
Flashed bouldering... Yeah, pretty close, UK 6a.
Worked bouldering... hell no! My hardest problems take me 10s if not 100s of goes. I suppose I could put that effort into a sport route (if there were any here) but I just can't be arsed, I'd probably only get a measly 7a/+ for it anyway
jk
In reply to Fiend:
Arse! The only way I'm gonna climb E6 at the moment is by way of dubious ethical practices)
Arse! The only way I'm gonna climb E6 at the moment is by way of dubious ethical practices)
In reply to JLS:
Never been bothered above E4.
Bouldering's different. Its more incremental. So I'd say F7b would be a reasonable goal. Trouble is, there'd always be a specific F7b+ I'd want to play on etc.etc.
HD.
> Is there a grade beyond which you have no real desire to climb?
Never been bothered above E4.
Bouldering's different. Its more incremental. So I'd say F7b would be a reasonable goal. Trouble is, there'd always be a specific F7b+ I'd want to play on etc.etc.
HD.
In reply to Burns:
Yeah, but that's easy if you're talking Brit Tech grade for climbing. An E4 6b for example. How hard is the '6b' bit? V4, V5, V6, V7? They're all potentially 6b moves. Easy 6b, or hard 6b?
HD.
>
> Has anyone who has posted managed to realise their technical bouldering grade (or very close) in thier lead climbing?
> Has anyone who has posted managed to realise their technical bouldering grade (or very close) in thier lead climbing?
Yeah, but that's easy if you're talking Brit Tech grade for climbing. An E4 6b for example. How hard is the '6b' bit? V4, V5, V6, V7? They're all potentially 6b moves. Easy 6b, or hard 6b?
HD.
In reply to hugedyno: So true, I've done 6a on trad, but it was bottom end, so probably about V1/V2, but bouldered V6!
Best boulder problem I've onsighted indoors is V4, but did a V5 the other day second go.
I'm hopefully going to be able to puch the Trad grade if the
summer ever arrives!
I'd be happy with E5.
Best boulder problem I've onsighted indoors is V4, but did a V5 the other day second go.
I'm hopefully going to be able to puch the Trad grade if the
summer ever arrives!
I'd be happy with E5.
In reply to hugedyno:
How is bouldering more incremental thatn trad climbing? THey both follow linear scales and different problem or routes will work different strengths.
After reading your dieting and training posts in the past it would surprise me if you hadn't climbed F7b!
> (In reply to JLS)
> [...]
>
> Never been bothered above E4.
>
> Bouldering's different. Its more incremental. So I'd say F7b would be a reasonable goal. Trouble is, there'd always be a specific F7b+ I'd want to play on etc.etc.
>
> HD.
> [...]
>
> Never been bothered above E4.
>
> Bouldering's different. Its more incremental. So I'd say F7b would be a reasonable goal. Trouble is, there'd always be a specific F7b+ I'd want to play on etc.etc.
>
> HD.
How is bouldering more incremental thatn trad climbing? THey both follow linear scales and different problem or routes will work different strengths.
After reading your dieting and training posts in the past it would surprise me if you hadn't climbed F7b!
In reply to andy farnell:
>"The grade above my current grade. And then repeat the process."
Either Rhapsody’s going to get a lot of accents or there will be lot of malcontent climber's sulking about in the future.
It seems natural (bar the exceptional) that we all reach a peak of ability from which we decline with age. I wonder how those that are always striving to higher grades will deal with that decline? Will they give up climbing; perhaps find something new at which they can, due to their novice status, still improve? Or will their ambitions mellow and allow themselves to bumble along at ever decreasing standards?
>"The grade above my current grade. And then repeat the process."
Either Rhapsody’s going to get a lot of accents or there will be lot of malcontent climber's sulking about in the future.
It seems natural (bar the exceptional) that we all reach a peak of ability from which we decline with age. I wonder how those that are always striving to higher grades will deal with that decline? Will they give up climbing; perhaps find something new at which they can, due to their novice status, still improve? Or will their ambitions mellow and allow themselves to bumble along at ever decreasing standards?
In reply to JLS:
I'd like the head to climb Grade VI and maybe about E2 solidly, not just "on a rare good day". If I got/get back to that kind of grade though, guaranteed I would not be entirely satisfied and would be looking at the next grade up.
I'd like the head to climb Grade VI and maybe about E2 solidly, not just "on a rare good day". If I got/get back to that kind of grade though, guaranteed I would not be entirely satisfied and would be looking at the next grade up.
In reply to TimS:
Because.......it is! For example UK Tech 6b is broken down into:
V4, V5, V6, V7, or:
Font 6c, 6c+, 7a, 7a+, 7b.
Honest! If you don't believe me consult the Rockfax grade comparison table.
That's cause I'm fat & weak and I've got shit technique! ('keen 'ell....I'm a poet and I don't know it!).
HD.
> (In reply to hugedyno)
> [...]
>
>
> How is bouldering more incremental thatn trad climbing?
> [...]
>
>
> How is bouldering more incremental thatn trad climbing?
Because.......it is! For example UK Tech 6b is broken down into:
V4, V5, V6, V7, or:
Font 6c, 6c+, 7a, 7a+, 7b.
Honest! If you don't believe me consult the Rockfax grade comparison table.
> After reading your dieting and training posts in the past it would surprise me if you hadn't climbed F7b!
That's cause I'm fat & weak and I've got shit technique! ('keen 'ell....I'm a poet and I don't know it!).
HD.
In reply to JLS:
I would like to climb on-sight trad routes at E3 leading, E4 seconding and sport routes at F6c+ on-sight and redpoints at F7a+.
Unfortunately age and lack of training will not allow this; although youth and vigour did give me access to some great routes a few years ago.
I just have to be content with E1 and F6a+ nowadays. Things aren't improving just now either.
I would like to climb on-sight trad routes at E3 leading, E4 seconding and sport routes at F6c+ on-sight and redpoints at F7a+.
Unfortunately age and lack of training will not allow this; although youth and vigour did give me access to some great routes a few years ago.
I just have to be content with E1 and F6a+ nowadays. Things aren't improving just now either.
In reply to JLS:
I'd like to be happy with HVS's and not too scared on some E1's, don't have any sort of mind to ever get onto E2... yet.
I'd like to be happy with HVS's and not too scared on some E1's, don't have any sort of mind to ever get onto E2... yet.
In reply to JLS:
At this stage I've not done any trad (YET) and yet to shift from 5c to 6a outside, and to shift from 5+ to 6a sport climbing. Those were the goals for the summer before the rain.
I'd be amazed at myself if I ever hit E1. From my rookie perspective there is a strange appeal about E1.
I'm not bagging many 5cs but I won't be content until I can climb 6a for the most stupid of reasons.
Wouldn't it be nice to just be able to enjoy everything you climbed though (assuming you don't already)?
At this stage I've not done any trad (YET) and yet to shift from 5c to 6a outside, and to shift from 5+ to 6a sport climbing. Those were the goals for the summer before the rain.
I'd be amazed at myself if I ever hit E1. From my rookie perspective there is a strange appeal about E1.
I'm not bagging many 5cs but I won't be content until I can climb 6a for the most stupid of reasons.
Wouldn't it be nice to just be able to enjoy everything you climbed though (assuming you don't already)?
In reply to JLS:
I think I've always looked to E2; this should comfortably allow me to do my main 'target', Cenotaph Corner at E1, and open the possibility of Left Wall. But I also fancy 'Shrike' on Cloggy; Steve Ashton makes it sound very interesting, but that goes at E3 if I remember right...
Dave.
I think I've always looked to E2; this should comfortably allow me to do my main 'target', Cenotaph Corner at E1, and open the possibility of Left Wall. But I also fancy 'Shrike' on Cloggy; Steve Ashton makes it sound very interesting, but that goes at E3 if I remember right...
Dave.
In reply to Cat on a Hot Thin Roof:
It was only upgraded to E2 in the current guidebook, Shrike.........
AJM
It was only upgraded to E2 in the current guidebook, Shrike.........
AJM
In reply to JLS:
I climb fairly steadily at Severe, and have no desire whatsoever to improve on that.
Y.
I climb fairly steadily at Severe, and have no desire whatsoever to improve on that.
Y.
In reply to JLS:
I just want to enjoy what I'm doing, and keep improving.
Had my first crack at a HS/VS this weekend (2nded) and got up it after 2 falls. Previously I was content to have led severe. There will always be the challenging lure of something harder - though I suspect there will come the time when I think, no, I don't want to die, I just want to enjoy this lark and the next step is one too far.
I just want to enjoy what I'm doing, and keep improving.
Had my first crack at a HS/VS this weekend (2nded) and got up it after 2 falls. Previously I was content to have led severe. There will always be the challenging lure of something harder - though I suspect there will come the time when I think, no, I don't want to die, I just want to enjoy this lark and the next step is one too far.
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