In reply to sutty:
> (In reply to Rob Naylor)
>
> Large sections of the BMC do not appeal to me, the competitions, the walls sections, the bolt fund, to name three. Walls are commercial operations and should be able to run competitions without input from anyone else. Bolts, well woopy doo, perhaps they will spend another £10.000 on first timers gear, or giving me some free gear to climb with, people doing sport routes should do the same as trad climbers, pay for their own bolts, or make appeals, not get it from the national body.
I see where you're coming from on this, though the competitions thing is something I'd disagree with the economics of. I was involved in the BRYCS for several years and I've hasd discussions on the economics of walls setting competitions with the owners/ managers of several walls. For a regional/ national event like the BRYCS, it's *not* economic for a wall to run a comp itself, unless it's well-sponsored. Look at the income lost for a whole day (usually a Saturday and one of their busiest days) plus the extra staff required, plus extra staff/ route-setters required on days prior to the comp (any idea how long it takes to set and check up to 18 roped routes and up to 30 boulder problems...not just checking the grade but checking things like "reachiness" for y8nger age groups)?
So I don't think comps such as BRYCS would be run at all if it was purely down to commercial walls to organise them directly...you can argue whether that's a good or a bad thing in itself!
Agree on the bolt funding.
> Perhaps if they set up a regular young persons meet every month in a different area so those under 18 could get out and meet other people their age to climb with, or even every weekend in the school holidays.
> Weekend camp or hut in Yorkshire and Derbyshire. Weeks camp at Ogwen and Borrowdale with transport from Bangor and Penrith for those on trains.
More diffcult now, with the level of Child Protection Policies in place, and the demands they make on things like the type of accommodation that can be used.
> Think of Fawcett, Nunn and all the other lads who were doing hard stuff at 15/16 years of age, they would not have had the chance unless they lived locally to crags.
Historically, my club has had several good 15/16 year olds join and go on to become very committed climbers. They've done this by escaping the sandstone and coming along with us on away trips from quite a young age. Unfortunately the requirement for affiliated clubs to subscribe in full to the BMC's Child Protection Policies means that although we allow people to join at 15, it's now no longer really viable for them to come on away trips with us until they're over 18.
Wonder why the BMC implemented that? I've never heard of any "incident" at a club (and I can't think of a safer place for a minor than in an alpine-style bunk room with another dozen adults of both sexes in the same room)...We had a steady trickle of 15-18 year olds coming into the club. We lost a lot of them at university time, but many retained links with us. Now they tend not to join, as what they can do wiht the club is severely restricted until they're 18...by which time they're mostly off to uni and will join their uni club in preference.