UKC

Does the panel have any suggestions on this as a venue for taking out (a) a beginner or (b) a six-year-old? Both on the capable side as their types go.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Hmmm - not sure. It's on the intimidating side, with abseil approaches or awkward downclimbs to many of the routes we did. I think you'd want to be climbing E1 to get the best out of the place. However, Tall Pall is pretty good as Severes go, though it lacked line in its upper half (imho). I think Pink Flamingo is the other 3 star severe, though we couldn't get to it when we were there as it's tidal.

Reiff is much friendlier if it's not too far from where you're based.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I wouldn't recommend it for either a beginner or a 6 year old. There is great potential for tumbling into the ocean or being swept off by the ocean on belay ledges. The 1st Geo is probably be the safest, but lacks low grade pitches of good quality.

Reiff is a good hour's drive away as a good alternative. But even closer is the multitude of slab climbs in the Kinlochbervie/Rhiconich area.

In reply to Jack Frost:

I like the sound of this multitude of slab climbs. I only have the 1992 Northern Highlands guide. Are they in there and I'm too stupid to see them, or have they been developed since, and if so is there a guidebook they're in?

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Yes, all recent developments and included in the 2004 Northern Highlands North guide.

http://www.smc.org.uk/Publications/Publications.php?ID=24

In reply to johncoxmysteriously: John, there are some friendlier routes in Polin Geo in the S-VS range. Low tide access is straightforward and climbs look OK (not actually climbed there as tide was in and we were just checking it out). Access is from Polin Bay itself (just before Shiegra), or a nice walk across oldshoremore beach. Alternatively there is a smalll crag halfway across Oldshoremore Beach that loosk to have potential for easy climbing, bit I am not sure about belays ast the top.

In Second Geo there is a Diff at the far left hand side that may be OK for both beginner and 6 yo. There are a few other crags in the area like Ridgeway View crag that may be suitable. There has been a load of new development in the area, mostly in the guide JF recommends.

And Oldshoremore is a gorgeous beach with good swimming / surfing depending on sea state.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Crackin Corner (VS) is worth its stars and very accessible.
Shark Crack(HS) is good too but abseil approach. One of the HVSs in the 2nd geo is easily accessible by descending the ramp a little.

All depends what you mean by 'capable'.

N Highlands N guide much more use than the old one.

Alternatives in the area-

Ridgeway Crag is good for a short half day.
The walls on the far side of Sandwood Bay are worth the walk with routes and some bouldering on blood-red Gneiss above the sand.
Creag an Dubh Loch (the Tarbet one) isn't as good as it sounds.

Wherever, there will be clegs.

In reply to Irton Pike: Not sure I would recommend shark crack for a beginner or 6 yo regardless of ability. Abseiling to a hanging belay above a booming sea cave may not put them in a good frame of mind. Some of the Severes on Treasure Island walls would definitely be a better choice.

In reply to Chris F:

This is true - all depends on exactly what he means by 'capable'.
I thought even the accessible routes off the slabby ramp in the 2nd Geo were rendered kind of 'atmospheric' by the situation.