UKC

MRJ takes a look at the Trango Max Cam

"Trango's claim that it feels at home in your hand from the first trigger pull seems to hold true. As for holding strength and such like, I haven't taken any huge whippers onto it, but the few small falls I have taken onto it caused no problems. "

Includes words from Climbing magazine's gear guru, Craig Luebben and a statement from the designer, Max Reed.

Read more but don't stare for too long....http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=387

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Worth noting that these cams are not CE rated and therefore not available in the UK/EU?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
is that review a review or an advert?

In reply to Dr.Strangeglove:

Please be aware that this thread is permantely attached to the review.

There are four elements to that review.

1. An independent and unsolicited review from someone who bought the gear and used it.

2. A review from a climbing guide and journalist.

3. A note from the designer.

4. This thread where anyone can contribute.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

<scratches head> ... that post about the un peened rivet/QC problem has nothing to do with the Trango Max cam advert/review, it relates to the equally befuddling but totally different Link Cam... right?

jk

In reply to jkarran:

Yip...my mistake. That review is up next along with an Edelrid Eddy Review...now deleted.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Right... now that's cleared up ignore my post ^
jk

In reply to Fiend:

It would be nice to have a trust fund but ufortunately we don't!

As I said above:

There are four elements to that review.

1. An independent and unsolicited review from someone who bought the gear and used it.

2. A review from a climbing guide and journalist. (from Climbing magazine)

3. A note from the designer.

4. This thread where anyone can contribute.

Unlike magazine advertorial reviews there is no hiding on the internet. We have a forum here where everyone can contribute. When I talk to the gear manufacturers they actually prefer robust reviews and they like the fact that we can present gear on here and then all and sundry can comment about it here on the forums.

So if you have experience of this cam, speak up!

Personally I never rely on one gear review alone, especially when it comes to new gear. I google, I read the websites, I talk to mates who may have experience. The BMC is also a good source of information.

Stack the odds in your favour, by active not passive, after all it is your life.

Mick

In reply to Fiend:

That's why I included it.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Fiend - did you just pull you're post? Anyway this is what I was trying to say in a reply to your now dissappeared post:

If it was Climbing that liked them it must have been Rock and Ice that gave them a very bad review. I very nearly got a mate who was visiting the US to buy me some then just happened to see the review which was really quite strong by magazine standards. Does anyone have it? They seemed to think the design was really rather flawed if I remember correctly - was it that cams walked very easily? Anyway after reading it I decided to sit on my wallet and wait a bit. The new funky metolius ones got the good review, whilst the link and max cams both got less than favourable reviews as I remember.

I have had the 0.75 Max Cam now for almost two summers (ordered it from the US), and I have the same experience as the reviewer: it is the most used cam in my rack of otherwise solely BD C4:s. It has taken some smaller falls by me, and a friend (180 lbs guy) of mine took a 30 feet fall on it, and it held without problems. I haven't noticed any problems with walking, but then again, I very seldom clean it

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Another review here:
http://alpinistmountainstandards.blogs.com/alpinist_mountain_standar/2006/1...

In summary, not too positive (it walks), though with a few changes (cam-stops), it could be very good.

In reply to Jubjab: When placing these, how deep does the crack need to be? can you just place the upper section and have the lower section out of the crack in shallow placments?

joe

In reply to joe_alexander:

Not sure what you mean. The Max cam must be placed with all cam lobes having good contact with the rock, just like any other cam.