UKC

NEWS: Steve McClure Working New Hardest Sport Route

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 Michael Ryan 06 Sep 2007
In May this year after Steve McClure's ascent of Overshadow 9a+ at Malham Cove we asked Steve, what is next?

He replied, "Maybe the extension to Steve Dunning's Northern Exposure at Kilnsey."

Norther Exposure is a short but very hard 8b+ to the right of Dominatrix. It finishes where Steve is in th...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
 GrahamD 06 Sep 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

The man just seems to be head and shoulders above anyone else in the country at the moment. Incredible motivation to be putting up this sort of route in England.
 Andy Farnell 06 Sep 2007
In reply to GrahamD: That's because he is. This latest project looks blank from below. You can see holds on Northern Exposure, but none on Steve's project! Ste Dunning said it was Font 8a territory after the belay.

Andy F
In reply to andy farnell:
Took some photographs of Steve playing on this and you have to look close to see the dirty crimps he's using. Fantastic. Will be awesome when it goes. Let's hope for a dry couple of months.
OP Michael Ryan 06 Sep 2007
In reply to David Simmonite:

post the photos dave
 Simon 06 Sep 2007
In reply to David Simmonite:
> (In reply to andy farnell)

Let's hope for a dry couple of months.



Amen Big Dave, its goy to stay dry now until Xmas - I order it as its Autumn & looking forward to those colours coming out in the evening sun.. yay!

Si
 Bulls Crack 06 Sep 2007
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> The man just seems to be head and shoulders above anyone else in the country at the moment.

English sport climbing I presume you're talking about?
 lummox 07 Sep 2007
In reply to Bulls Crack: are there any other 9as eleswhere in Britain ?
 seagull 07 Sep 2007
In reply to lummox:

Yes.
 lummox 07 Sep 2007
In reply to seagull: sorry- ignorant of sport routes- is there one at LPT ? Can`t think of one anywhere else....
 Alastair Lee 07 Sep 2007
In reply to lummox:

Big Bang 9a, LPT ('96 Neil Carson)
Mutation 9a, Raven Tor ('98 Steve McClure)
Northern Lights 9a, Kilnsey ('01 Steve McClure)
Rainshadow 9a, Malham ('03 Steve McClure)
Violent New Breed 9a+, Hollywood Bowl ('04 John Gaskins)
Ben's Roof/Evolution link 9a, Raven Tor ('06 Steve McClure)
Overshadow 9a+, Malham ('07 Steve McClure)
 seagull 07 Sep 2007
In reply to lummox:

Mutation 9a Raven Tor
Big Bang 9a LPT
Violent New Breed 9a+ Giggleswick
Northern Lights 9a Kilnsey
Rainshadow 9a Malham
Overshadow 9a+ Malham

And I'd include Staminaband/PUTP 9a/8B+ Raven Tor (for a bit of controversy).

Think that's it but I could well be wrong!

 seagull 07 Sep 2007
In reply to Alastair Lee:

Ha ha. Thought someone might beat me to it!
 GrahamD 07 Sep 2007
In reply to Bulls Crack:

I'm talking about the climber, not the routes - its been a whil since Carson was climbing 9a and I'm not aware of anyone else in UK operating consistantly at 9a / 9a+ at the moment.
 nigel pearson 07 Sep 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Is anyone trying to repeat his routes?
 Glyn Jones 07 Sep 2007
In reply to nigel pearson: Me!

This season I've got as far up as the M25.
 Bulls Crack 07 Sep 2007
In reply to lummox:
> (In reply to Bulls Crack) are there any other 9as eleswhere in Britain ?

I was merely defining terms. Steve M is our best sport climber and obiously one of the worlds best. There's more of a discussion re:trad
 Andy Farnell 07 Sep 2007
In reply to Alastair Lee: Total Eclipse 9a Malham ('95 John Dunne) to add to your list. Or did you forget to add it on purpose

andy F
 Alastair Lee 07 Sep 2007
In reply to andy farnell: On my list (from McClure's column in Climb about 'ard sport climbs) Total Eclipse is 8c+, it also mentions controversy surrounds it, which is odd
Tristan 07 Sep 2007
In reply to Alastair Lee:

Now then...

The best bit about this thread is that I've seen Steve climb the route and more importantly I've seen Alastair's uncut footage of this from the Psyche DVD... Let me tell you the route is H*A*R*D* and it's been filmed in such a good way - it looks awesome. Possibly the best piece of climbing on film since Cobra Crack on First Ascent.

Can't wait to see the finished polished version!!! (hint hint Al, it's nearly Christmas...!)






Anonymous 13 Sep 2007
In reply to Tristan:

Sweet man. Set In Stone was cool. Can't wait to see more of Dave Birkett. Clips look ace on the Posiing Productions site!!!
Changabang 13 Sep 2007
In reply to Alastair Lee:

Hey Alastair,

I saw your lecture in Holmfirth last March. It was really funny. Any plans to do any more talks?
Tristan 13 Sep 2007
In reply to Anonymous:

Just re-watched the raw footage...!!!! AWESOME!!!

Tristan 13 Sep 2007
In reply to Changabang:

Hey man. Are you on my mailing list? If not go to this site and send me an email.

http://www.mountaineeringlectures.co.uk/newsletter.htm
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