UKC

Why......

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 nikinko 04 Oct 2007
Does some gear have two differnt ratings? Point in hand DMM nut #1, marked as 7kn and 4kn?
 Caralynh 04 Oct 2007
In reply to nikinko:

Depends how it's placed
OP nikinko 04 Oct 2007
In reply to Caralynr:

you mean a shite placement is good for 4kn?

The orientation of the nut in the crack? if so, why don't all have two different ratings?

 Justin T 04 Oct 2007
In reply to nikinko:

Smaller nuts are less strong in sideways hence the lower rating (limitation of the material strength of the alloy used at that size). As they get larger the strength of the nut itself becomes less of an issue compared to the strength of the wire / swaging hence equally strong either way around.
 Mark Stevenson 04 Oct 2007
In reply to nikinko:
> The orientation of the nut in the crack? if so, why don't all have two different ratings?

You can't get hold of the CE EN 12270 test standard without paying for it but http://www.uiaa.ch/web.test/visual/Safety/SafComPictorials/PictUIAA124-EN12... details the test methods and would seem to suggest that the two ratings in this case (DMM #1) will be the two differing orientations.

In larger chocks the failure mechanisms will change and the differences between orientaions are likely to be smaller therefore not worth recording and it's likely only the lowest would be quoted.

HTH
OP nikinko 04 Oct 2007
In reply to Mark Stevenson:

wow, a straigt answer from Quadmyre. ;¬)

Thanks all, that makes sense now.

*puts nuts away and looks for another diversion from writing job applications*.
In reply to nikinko:

No, No....

It's 7 metric Kilonewtons which is the same as 4 American Kilonewtons.

Only on the smaller bits of gear 'cos that's the only ones that the yanks use for aid y'see.



 Calder 05 Oct 2007
In reply to Steve Culverhouse:
> (In reply to nikinko)
>
> No, No....
>
> It's 7 metric Kilonewtons which is the same as 4 American Kilonewtons.
>

Are you taking the pi$$?

Newton: the SI unit of force, equal to the force that produces an acceleration of one meter per second per second on a mass of one kilogram.

And thats true in the UK, US, Russia, on the moon or anywhere else you care to mention...
Sam L 05 Oct 2007
In reply to Steve Culverhouse: I assume you are joking? The two ratings are for the different orientations.
Sam
 Justin T 05 Oct 2007
In reply to Calder:

> Are you taking the pi$$?

That was surely pretty obvious? I can't believe you bit!
 Calder 05 Oct 2007
In reply to quadmyre: I can believe it. I just hope I'm never reincarnated as a fish cos I'd not last so very long.

Then again its not beyond comprehension that someone on here would really think that...

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...