UKC

VIDEO NEWS: Andrew Earl Repeats High Fidelity...highball V13

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 Michael Ryan 20 Nov 2007
Northumberland's Andy Earl has made a fine repeat of the High Fidelity at Caley in West Yorkshire. This plum line gets a confirmed grade of highball V13/Font 8b and was first climbed by Steve Dunning (author of the forthcoming Yorkshire bouldering guidebook) with its second ascent coming from the evergreen Ben Moon. Andy pre-inspected this powerful line by abseil, or bloc as Andy insists.......

See the video at at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Pre inspected by absiel? Does that mean no actual practice because he makes it look a piece of pish.

Well done that man.
 Jus 20 Nov 2007
In reply to Richard Bradley:

Yes, it's hard I'm sure but it looks like he could definitely do something harder.
 davepwsmith 20 Nov 2007
If Will and I hadn't been dicking around at roadside, we might have seen him do that. I was round the corner slipping off Bob's Bastard. How embarrassing :P
OP Michael Ryan 20 Nov 2007
In reply to Jus:
> (In reply to Richard Bradley)
>
> Yes, it's hard I'm sure but it looks like he could definitely do something harder.

I think that ease in which Andy Earl appears to despatch High Fidelity in the video hides the problems difficulty. This is a major line, at a popular area and it has only had three ascents.

Pre-inspection? A brief look on abseil at the holds in this case I think, well according to Andy's blog.

Mick
 JDal 20 Nov 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
He got it 1st go - from Chris Grahams Scarpa blog - "Anyway so we get to Caley, Andy brushes the holds and sets off, not expecting to get too far on his first go. Undoubtedly inspired by my awesome spotting ability he waltzed straight past the crux to top it out first try. Good effort from the sparrow legs! You can watch the full video on the scarpa youtube pages but here's what I thought of his ascent..."

 Lemony 20 Nov 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Blimey, bloody impressive effort!
OP Michael Ryan 20 Nov 2007
In reply to Lemony:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) Blimey, bloody impressive effort!

In both style and speed of ascent.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Fantastic effort then.
 JDal 20 Nov 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I like the way he casually uses his leg as an arm on the topout.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Wrong more misleading facts, he got it first go on the day, it was a project he had been working.

A very fine effort indeed.
OP Michael Ryan 20 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Wrong more misleading facts, he got it first go on the day, it was a project he had been working.

Aha..

News report updated.

"Andy had worked the problem previously and on the day of his ascent pre-inspected this powerful line by abseil, or bloc as Andy insists on calling boulder problems, and after warming up fired the line first try"

Cheers,

Mick
 JDal 20 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless: Ah! Fair enough.
 seagull 21 Nov 2007
In reply to JDal:

Yes he'd been trying it for a while.

If you look at the video of Ben doing the second ascent he also makes it look pretty easy. This is often the case when someone does something really hard.

http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=36

Awesome looking problem. Well done to Andy.

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