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NEW REVIEW: FRCC Gable & Pillar Guidebook: by Bill Birkett

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 Michael Ryan 21 Nov 2007
The BMC and Rockfax aren't the only ones to be publishing prize-winning, state of the art guidebooks.

They'd better watch out! The Fell and Rock Climbing Club and the main authors, Phil Rigby, Stephen Reid and Al Phizacklea have just published a beauty to one of the UK's oldest climbing areas.

Lakeland photojournalist and climber, Bill Birkett, takes a look....and be sure to check out that photo topo of Pillar Rock and Al Phizacklea's beautiful 3-D overview maps.

Read more: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=653
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

All guidebook writers were given a 'wake up call' with the FRCC 'Lakeland Rock' selected guide, which IMHO was as big a leap forward in presentation as the 'revolutionary' Rockfax format.

From what I can tell, the new guide takes the game to a new level.

And 'No', I'm not an FRCC member
 The Pylon King 23 Nov 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


looks good , apart from the 80's style, smart arse footless climber (although it is a good pic)
 Skyfall 23 Nov 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I got this recently and I like it but find it strangely old-fashioned in some respects, not helped by the colour and front cover pic. Funnily some people at my work saw it and asked if it was an old book! I think the contents are generally great though and one to read through over the coming winter months with a glass of something to hand.
Stephen Reid 25 Nov 2007
In reply to JonC:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> old-fashioned

"Old-fashioned", us FRCC types? Surely not! Well yes actually, I'll admit to that I guess, but mainly from an "if it ain't broke don't fix it" point of view.

Thus the guide is the same shape and and has the same colour spine and the same plastic cover as the previous Gable (& Pillar) guide, and the one before that, and the one before that... The reasons being that the guide is much easier to fit in your pocket if climbing multipitch routes (which most of the climbs in the guide are), the plastic cover protects it from the rain that it will almost certainly end up in if you use it regularly and from damage if you drop it, and the yellow spine makes it very easy to distinguish from all your other climbing guides so you don't and up at the crag with the wrong book because you left the house in the hurry. All these things are tried and tested and all work well so why change them? The title font on the cover is peculiarly FRCC but again, it works - what reason is there to change it? Inside are far more historical photos (and information) than there have been in any previous FRCC guide and I admit that the history of Lake District climbing is a particular interest, but there are other reasons for including it too. The FRCC has a wealth of old climbing photos in its archives many of which haven't seen the light of day since they were taken and it just seems a great thing to be able to use some of these to illustrate the guides, especially when they show so clearly the suicidal equipment that many first ascents were made with. It is doubtful that a future series of guides will be able to include such information again as space will be at a premium by then due to the extra routes that will have been done.

The route descriptions are old-fashioned in that they follow the same tried and tested formula that has been used in FRCC guides since the 1920s - not sure how we could change that? Or why anyone would want to?

The colour photo-diagrams look fantastic to my mind but I guess they are old-fashioned too as the FRCC first used crag photodiagrams in its very earliest guides although those ones were in black and white. But what the whole thing looks like is far less important than whether it gets you to your route and then up it and otff the top of the crag without getting lost. These new photodiagrams should do that really well I hope.
OP Michael Ryan 25 Nov 2007
In reply to Lord of Starkness:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> All guidebook writers were given a 'wake up call' with the FRCC 'Lakeland Rock' selected guide, which IMHO was as big a leap forward in presentation as the 'revolutionary' Rockfax format.
>
> From what I can tell, the new guide takes the game to a new level.
>
> And 'No', I'm not an FRCC member

UK guidebooks are in a very healthy state because of numerous developments in technology, design, competition between publishers and the expectations of climbers.

 Skyfall 04 Dec 2007
In reply to Stephen Reid:

Stephen, I didn't really mean the contents of the guide. I love the FRCC guides in terms of useability and agree with the "if it ain't broke" principle. My Buttermere & East guide is probably my favourite ever guide and that's about as old fashioned as they come nowadays.

I simply meant the cover itself, which is what I did say in my post. The colours and lay-out really do just look old fashioned, in a nice way.

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