UKC

UKC Fit Club is a substitute for the UKC training diary which was promised in 2006 and shamefully has yet to appear.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday evening for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

58 diary entries last week.

Tim Bertenshaw bagged Raindogs – his second 8a in as many weeks and AJM ticked V3. TomUK, Tyler and Rich Kirby all upped their game in Spain in an orgy of onsighting and downgrading.

Repeat contributors last week:

IainRUK
skydivingbluecat
PaulB
Andy Farnell
tobyfk
Serpico
Tony Fryer
Burnsie
Jenn
mbh
WEBBO/Steve Webster
Ian Jackson
TimS
Tyler
TRNovice
Wibble Wibble
CJD
craigd
biscuit
davidwright
andy reeve
jfw
MattG
tbertenshaw
Duncan Disorderly
catt
jon barton
fimm
Richard Hession
iain roberto
Burns
AJM
abarro81
necromancer85
annah
A Jo by any other name
the colonel
kipper (the original one)
DougG
martin riddell
Si d H
Stig
trevf
JimR
SARS
ebygomm
Oli
loulou
Mark Westerman
Mark Stevenson

7 New starters/returners
Seankenny
Guy Maddox
Karl Woofinden
Goonie
TomUK
Rich Kirby
galpinos

3 Absentees last week:
Ferrito
Mkean
Wilbur (finger injury)

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG: 1) boulder V3 before Xmas
2) get a fell run done this week
3) No drinking Mon to thur

LTG: RP F7a and onsight E3 6a

OK STG 2+3 are not ones i want praise for achieving i just needed to write them down to get motivated. Although i would like some praise as i actually didn't drink from Sun - Thur. Got plastered on Friday night though :0)

Sun - Fingerboard, core + Antagonist. Fingers felt really weak. Needed lots of assistance.

Mon - Rest

Tue - Fell run. 5 miles and roughly 1600ft of ascent. Not too bad for first one in 15 mths.

Wed - Bouder session at Keswick wall. No sore legs from yesterday which was nice. I seem to be naturally much better at running than climbing but prefer climbing - BUGGER !
Good session with progress made on current projects. Now linked all the moves on 2 that last time i couldn't get anywhere near doing. Finger strength seems to be the key.

Thur - 1 hr of faffing at Cockermouth wall after work there. Working on endurance circuits.

Fri - tries to fit a fingerboard session in before going away but my extremely chatty neighbour put paid to that.

Sat - away in camper van rest day.

In reply to biscuit:

Goals: Austrian Oak , Rumble in Jungle and Hasse route in 2008 and sub 1.35 in Taunton Half Marathon in May.

M. Foundry with boys – bouldered on Wave
T .
W. Foundry with boys – bouldered poorly on Wave but campussed surprisingly well
T. Lock off and short HIT board short session.
F. Foundry with boys – bouldered poorly on Wave
S
S. 50 min slow run in Peak with dog – first run in ages

Overall plan is to continue concentrating on bouldering and strength training until the Spring ie more of the same.

In reply to Simon Lee:

M:
T:Circuits (wall)
W:Bouldering (wall)
T:Routes
F:
S:Circuits and routes
S:

Going well. Need to get out! Feel like now would be a good time try some routes. Work and weather are conspiring between themselves to prevent it.

Got a bug- sore throaty type thing.

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG - V7 and climb well on sport trip
MTG - V8

M -
T - Woodie Session - ok
W - Mile End, much better than last week but still not as good as recently, prob tired due to end of term etc
T - 7 mile run (first for ages)
F - Campus Session
S - Cross Country Match ok but obviously not great preformance due to a lack (read no) training
S -

Need to keep up running and do some stamina work

In reply to Simon Lee:

STGs: continue good progress with the elbow and get out climbing, onsight E3 before Jan 9

M: rest
T: yoga in evening
W: lunch bouldering - first time in 3 weeks, finger strength low and tweaked finger
T: swimming over lunch, evening routes at MCC up to 6b, overlong session, tired
F: got stressed at work
S: very good routes session at MCC, made good progress on 'project' route
S: 7 mile walk in Peak

Elbows still grumbling a bit but seem ok.

Week ahead: do some more bouldering in the week in preparation for weekend outside. Please let the weather improve!

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG: 30 min run by end of November
MTG: V2

M: 18 min run, upper body w/o
T: 15 min swim
W: rest
T: 23 min run
F: 1hr bouldering indoors
S: rest hangover
S: 22 min run

Five booze-free days for the second week running and just 7 mins short of my running goal

In reply to Simon Lee:
M-
T- mileage bouldering/SACC at works
W- stamina/mileage routes at edge
T-
F-
S- gentle bouldering at matrix
S- damp day outside, short fingerboard and core session

Easy week working more on fitness to let elbow niggles sort themselves out - seems to be having desired effect. Will take it easy-ish again this week, more stamina and power-endurance.
Good amount of antagonistic work, must remember to keep it up even when the elbows aren't sore!
Lots of stretching and already noticing it: good so far, need to keep it up.
Not enough core (again!)
Should start running again, at least just once a week or something.

Winter goals: 5 more E6s onsight/flash, E7 in good style, WSS, 7C, flash 7B, EOTA headpoint
LTGs (next summer): E7 onsight, F7c onsight, F8a+

In reply to Simon Lee:

Constant routines

One gym session per week, focus mainly on antagonists and cardio although with a bit of weights thrown in every now and again

One preferably two board sessions per week, continue pushing myself there. If only one board session then some fingerboard training etc to supplment it on at least one day

Climbing as many weekends as possible - training instead if the weather sucks

Winter-time goals...... By my birthday (start of March) I would like to have:

Done trad when weather allows, aim to get more comfortable down at Swanage doing as many of the classic HVS/E1 routes as possible

Bouldered V4 and hopefully V5

Redpointed a number of (say 3) French 7as

Led WI5. Also led Scot V if I've made it to Scotland in the winter.

Got myself in a good position for a trip to Siurana mid-March with the optimistic goal of having a crack at a 7a+ R/P

M: Rest
T: Board session. Excellent - did the long stamina problem I'd been trying for a while.
W: Felt ill.
T: Badminton after work, good fun. Then a board session where I started working on some new problems.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: The Cuttings - played on Live by the Sword (7a+ - it looked nice so why not) and Tipping the Scales (7a 2-bolt micro-route) - both desperate. Vertical crimpy UK6b is hard! Tried The Unworthy (6c, fairly short but surprisingly pumpy for its length) at the end of the day, could do all the moves easily but was too shattered to try for a redpoint. Very tired now, and I'm going to ache tomorrow

Feeling a bit ill still, its been lurking since midweek. Very tired now too. Have identified a real need to work on my finger strength after today's session - for once my fingers seem to be the weaker link than my upper arms. Going to try and get some board problems on the go to work on this.

AJM

In reply to Simon Lee:
I missed out last week as the little pixies had made off with my broadband connection so here is two weeks for the price of one.
Last week: 2 sessions at Swindon Wall about 2 hours each, a few 6a+ and 6b routes (well they claimed 6c) followed by getting resoundingly put in my place by the overhanging wall where I was struggling on 5b. Finished up working a 6b lead route on a gentle overhang that I've been playing on for awhile and fell off this about 3 times. Planned to hit it earlier in the evening on the next session so I wasn't so tired.

This week:
1 session at Swindon wall, climbing like a complete fool. Tried the 6b lead route again and failed miserably. Not a good session. To hit my targets I need to get in a lot more upper bbody work which I've got time to do as my employers have signed me off sick again. Also went to Calshot Wall and got a horrific shock as most of the routes seem to be about 1 numerical grade too hard, pulling on a 1 finger pocket on a 3+ was a shock! It was very cold but the routes were all really good (if excedingly hard for the grade) worked a 6c features only route which was great.

Targets for next week, lots of ice axe chinups and maybe go for a run.

Long term goal: Redpoint 8B, Onsight 7C+, Headpoint E7, Boulder 8A

Short term goal: Get fit and get back to Redpointing 8A, climb grit E6

M. Aching from Gym day before, swimming with son, 35min run in evening
T. works for a short session, mopped up some of the comp problems i couldn't do on Friday and a few other things that i had failed to do before
w.
th.
f.
s. 9 hours plastering in my loft. Absolutely wasted.
s. Raven tor. Sardine to warm up and 3 redpoints on In brine. really cheesed off as i got through where i have been failing and managed to re split my finger when it rolled off the crimp.

I think i am going to sack it off and get on something else as it is starting to wind me up.

In reply to Simon Lee:

this week:
too much being-at-work so tired, grumpy and demotivated.

M: nothing
T: 1hr bouldering circuits - managed 18 or 27 moves on the circuit that I'm *still* struggling with, so i felt pleased
W: gym, a bit halfhearted
T: a few hours at MCC - 12 routes, iirc. Hadn't led anything in a while so that was good.
F: nowt
S: gym - good session
S: nowt

could be worse I suppose. Could also be better... hurrah for not having to work next weekend though. And for having Friday off. I think some trudging up hills may be called for.

In reply to Simon Lee:

LTG : fitness into old age. Be like the old fellow I pass every time I go running along the Camel trail. He must walk the whole length of it, at least the stretch between Poley's Bridge and Wadebridge (10+ miles), almost every day. Or like the old couple I met at the hut by the reservoir in the Bregaglia, well into their sixties, but still striding out into the snow, ice-axe in hand.
MTG : Some long distance challenge next summer. I would really love to do the Etape du Tour, but think that's probably beyond me, kit, money and time-wise if for no other reason. Alternatively, either the Bob Graham Round or traverse of the Cuillin ridge are targets. 18 (!) years ago I did a marathon (3:45), and the Welsh 3000s in a day (14 hrs), and I'm fitter now than I've been for at least a decade, having done something aerobic at least 5 times a week for over a year now, so these don't seem unrealistic targets to me. But i've got to stop myself from getting injured so often. That didn't happen in the past.

M - swim 1600m
T - nothing
W - run 3m (24m, @5am!), swim 1600m, all before work. Felt smug
Th - nothing
F - nothing
Sa - run 7.6m (75m, pb = 67m). In the dark, headtorch on, ice everywhere. A surreal experience.
Su - run 6m, cycle 14.3m, hilly, 66min

Felt serious twinge in groin at top of last steep hill of Saturday's run. On Sunday, tried flat route, all along the Camel trail, hoping to do 9-10m. After 6m, had to stop because the groin thing had flared up and was really quite painful.

So I'm cycling and running more slowly than I was 6 months ago. But at least i'm still doing it, and enjoying it

In reply to Simon Lee:
LTG: Redpoint 8a by end of December 2008.
MTG: Tear down 6a's at Harissons, get stronger on slopers.
STG: Complete 2 v6 ish problems at Mile end.

M - Fast, short run + Long fingerboard session/ core body/ press ups and sits ups chez moi.
T - Mile end. Flashed a pink problem and completed another evening project. Press ups, negatives and pull ups.
W - Long gentle run.
Th - Mile end. Worked pink problem on comp wall + monkey room.
F - Short recovery run.
Sa - Fingerboard session at home, one arm training and power enduro.
Sun - Harisson's Rock. 2 5c, softouch 6a and failed again on SW climb in second session.

In reply to Simon Lee: Goals - Redpoint 8a+ (Conehead, Overnite, Grooved Arete), boulder font7b+

Tues - light session bouldering at Awesome. Still feeling weak and demotivated.

Thurs - didn't climb as felt shattered

Sun - reasonable session routing at Warrington. Indoor stamina is improving a little but I'm still under the weather with this lingering virus.

Andy F

In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: Rebuild some lost stamina on longer routes, lose a stone.
LTG: Redpoint higher sixes by {insert last weeks timescale here}.

Monday: Rest day (after a full week cycling last week)
Tuesday: Cycled 32 miles
Wednesday: Cycled 21 miles
Thursday: Cycled 21 miles
Friday: Cycled 32 miles
Saturday: Rest day.
Sunday: Routes at MCC.

Ive done a little less cycling than usual this week <sigh>
Hope to get 130 min miles done next week and get climbing 3 times to get some stamina back up QUICK!

Ive been better at abstaining from biscuit consumption since we've re-organised the office and moved the biscuit tin.

In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: Get strong over the winter. Fnt7c.
LTG: 8b+ at 40.

M:
T:
W: Broughton, pyramids. Tricked into improving on previous week's session by the promise of "soft touches".
T:
F: MCC, bouldering; moved well.
S:
S: Boulder UK, short, intense, session.

I know I've done some core work this week, but yet again I've failed to write it down - need to sort this.

In reply to Simon Lee:

M - Trained Martial Arts
T - Warrington climbing wall
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Warrington climbing wall
S - Rest
S - Mountain bike

** Should have gone to Martial arts on Weds and MTB Thurs there is always next week.

In reply to Simon Lee:
Finally caught up and responding on a sunday

W: rest day
T: fingerboard session
F: fingerboard session
S: nothing - incredibly hungover
S: half a fingerboard session.

There has been an awful lot of drinking this weekend!
Need to keep up running and fingerboard sessions until my toe gets well enough to climb again. Its slowly improving - fingers crossed for some good bouldering starting in Jan.

In reply to Simon Lee:
Short term goals:
Loose some weight, regain lost hill-fitness

Longer term goals:
Onsight a 6a at Alien Rock, complete a triathon

M: climbing Alien Rock. Did some footwork exercises, which was quite useful. However I seem to have done something to my shoulder when I fell off my bike, so didn't do anything too strenuous.
Tu: went swimming with the bloke. Did some kick drills which was hard work!
W: Ran 6km 41 minutes
Th: nothing
F: swam. Not a very long session
Sa: ran with the bloke - 8.7km 51 minutes. Cold wind - found it hard.
Su: nothing - stood around watching the bloke run a cross country race!!

In reply to Simon Lee:

Mon - day off
Tue - 8 mile biking
Wed - 8 mile biking
Thu - 8 mile biking
Fri - 8 mile biking
Sat - 2.5 hours bouldering
Sun - 40 mile bike ride (70% off road)

In reply to ebygomm: Shit week shit diet, drunk most nights, ate too much.

M: am: core session, press ups, sit ups, knee and leg raises, burpess, tricep dops and pm: 6 miles track session 10 x 400m efforts plus warm up cool down.
t: 10 mile up Snowdon
w: 6.12 miles up Foel Goch
t: 8 miles up Moel Eilio
f: am: 3.24 miles, pm: 4 miles
s: footall game
s: hill walking

In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: HP Scritto's Republic
Deliverance

Medium TG: OS an E5

M - Nothing
T - Nothing
W - Nothing
T - Nothing
F - Bouldering at Curbar. Repeated Trackside and did Gorilla Warfare, so useful. Highlights a severe lack of power endurance!
S - Nothing
S - Bouldering at Plantation. Not especially productive or on form. Stretch.

This week, some more trad onsighting and hopefully get back on Scrittos. Go indoors once or twice for some training and stretch lots.

In reply to Simon Lee:

MTG: complete F7b-F7c'ish project bolted during the summer
LTG: F8a or 5.13 redpoint

This week again mostly hopeless due to travel

M. beer and cakes
T. <train ride from one central european country to another> more beer and cakes
W. final beer and cakes day <flight and late arrival home>
T. tired and jet-lagged
F. <flight to asian city-state>yet more beer
S. afternoon bouldering with local guru and various upsettingly-strong people. good fun and quite a lot of mileage; various V0-V2 plus one surprise V5. far too much beer in evening.
S. felt like sh*t <flight to capital of another asian country> continued to feel like sh*t

In reply to Simon Lee:

... had a good week last week

M - Gym Session (CV & weights)
T - Gym Session (CV & weights)
W - Yoga
Thurs - Wall Session
Fri - Surfing
Sat - Wall Session (Ratho - how cold is that place!!!)
Sun - MTB at Glentress

I need to keep this as an active reminder!

In reply to Simon Lee:

Another week of being ill and tired. Nothing to report

I am really upset about having to take this much time out, but not much to be done about it.

Goals for this week include at least three gentle bouldering sessions and sticking to one time zone!

finger injury from rugby two weeks ago still not 100% but has improved

M: Nothing
T: bike ride (55 mins lots of big hills) followed by 20 press ups and sit ups.
W: easy climbing at college wall.
T: college wall again. pushed it a little bit hard and hurt already injured finger.
F: rest
S: Nothing
S: Nothing

The best week of excercise i've had in months. hope to do more next week - if i can fix my puncture!

In reply to Simon Lee:
M-S flu
S 1hr Korf

In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: Flash 3 specific grit routes, two already done; T-Crack; get fit for fell run in two weeks.
MTG: Get strong for Font in January, particularly slopers
LTG: Regularly lead E6 on all rock types; Urgent Action.

M: 13 mile run - knees felt funny so took it steady, about 1:50
T: Power-endurance at works, doing circuits
W: Routes at edge, felt poor!
T: Rest
F: Soling at Rivelin, lovely. Purple circuit at works in a session - great fun. Fun day.
S: Rest
S: Out at Bamford, damp so did nowt. Works bouldering, did yellow on skip - good. Noticably stronger than before.

Summary
Been on nights again so lacking direction a bit. Both knees feeling alternatley funny so not been training enought for race in one weeks time, may yet pull out if they don't mend themselves quick. Knees have also prevented stretching. However it is a complete lack of self discipline which has resulted in a lack of core work. Will do some as soon as I post this, promise!
Still not had opportunity to complete any STGs for last 3 wks I think, frustrating. Feel able to just need to be given the chance!

Plan
If have opportunity, really need to get on some of these STGs!
Run if knees okay.
Bit of endurance training, routes and circuits.

In reply to Tommy G: Argh bollocks, previous post was Andy Reeve, on Tommy G's computer. Additional STG, become computer literate.

In reply to Tommy G:

Well .. all this traing is rubbish cos I'm getting worse!

problems with RSI so will train antagonist

ignored upper arm and lock off .. need to work on that

so next week no climbing or board sessions

just running , pull ups and weights

In reply to Simon Lee: In Oz and New Zealand, Till Jan 3rd. Will not be training or eating very healthy over Christmas. (Due to heat)

Will return in Jan for a massive training routine.

Weight: 59.8KG

In reply to Simon Lee:

mon: rest and stretch
tues: 3 mile road
wed: 5 mile hill (Heughscar fell)
thurs: moving house
fri: same as thurs
sat: unpacking boxes.
sun: decorating and diy

Hectic week. Thought i could still get a few runs in but the house move was top priority. Drank way more booze than usual but it felt good. Pissed decorating. Definitely recommend it.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Lingering bout of illness meant little exercise at start of week :-

S - Nothing
S - Nothing
M - 18m bike ride
T - 18m bike ride
W - 18m bike ride
T - 18m bike ride, bouldering session Kelvin Hall
F - 18m bike ride

In reply to Simon Lee:
ltg font 7b+
stg recover from various injuries
m. rest felt tired from w/e
t.physio + rehab exs,55 min turbo session 5min hard effort 1 min easy x 7 h/r 80%+
w.rest
th.swiss ball exs,weights,deadhanging,turbo 1min max effort 1min easy x10 h/r 90%+
f.physio+rehab exs discharged from physio
sat 2 hours bouldering oaklands wall,2 hours mountain biking dalby forrest.managed to fall off right at the end,severly bruised fore arm and thigh.
sun arm very sore can't close fingers properly.11/2 hours road biking.
conclusion try to stop being such a clumsy tw*t.

In reply to Simon Lee: Time is now running out for my last 2007 goal (onsight E5) and my revised short-term goals of redpointing 7b routes. A poor week as despite spending the weekend in the Peak I didn't get any climbing done.

M nil
T routes @ local school wall
W nil
T bouldering @ Warehouse, Gloucester
F nil
S observed on SPA assessment course (got rained on)
S observed on SPA assessment course (no climbing)

This week should be better with 4 days training indoors planned.

In reply to Simon Lee:

M - 1hr 20 bouldering up to V2. Fingerboard
T - 1hr 30 bouldering V1, V2, V3 and V4 pyramid
W - Fingerboard
Th - Gym, 35 mins, upperbody + calf raises.
Fr - Gym, 5k rowing, squats, pullups and shoulder presses.
Sa - Rest
Su - 4 hr 30 fell run / walk round the Kentmere Horseshoe.

In reply to Simon Lee:

After a pretty successful trip to Spain last week (one STG and one MTG achieved) I rested at the begining of the week, then:

Thursday: Poor bouldering session at Craggy Island, re-emphasised my weakness.
Saturday: Hungover session at MMC
Sunday: Longer session at MMC

In reply to Simon Lee:

Well, it was fun, i did what i wanted to do in the short term, i on-sighted 6C+, go me.

Still got the long term goals, in the short term now i think going for a 7a on-sight is gonna be a target!
Monday - 5 Mile run
Tuesday - Swimming - 1000 metres
Wednesday - Kick as bouldering session at the edge, flashed v5 and worked some harder stuff. Good session!
Thursday - worked all night and ate a lot of pizza.
Friday - had the worst session ever, got cained on V0-( not sleeping sucks )
Saturday - Brilliant routes session at the foundry, got the 6C+ on-sight there and got a 7a+ after falling from the crux twice. Good times!
Came home from the routes session and went for 7 mile off road headtorch run, blasted it out and felt awesome for it!

In reply to Simon Lee:

still laid out with finger injury. Was in peak sat/sun though and managed to boulder at climbign works sat (rain) without pain for the first time in about 8 wks - still taking it easy and only doing open-handed grip with right hand...

In reply to Simon Lee:
STG - 2007
* 3 x f8a's in 2007 (2 sofar),
* Tick 1 Broughton 6c,
* 20 x 6b+'s (4)
* 30 x 6b's, (19)
* 50 x 6a+'s (34)
* 71 x 6a's (55)

MTG -Till Easter 2008
1 font 7b
10 font 7's

LTG (2008)
10 x f8's
1 x f8a+
font 7C

Weight 67.4 - 66.8KG
AM PM
M REST MCC
T REST REST
W REST Broughton (1 x 6b+)
T REST Broughton (very tired)
F REST REST
S Plywood Masters
S REST

*spent some time this week trying to focus on new goals.
*Think MCC on monday was definately a mistake. had a big session at the works on the sunday previous and i defaintely needed the rest, remember still aching in the obliques and core on the wednesday.
*Comp at boulderuk was a wake up call need to get a lot stronger. Good motivational value however.
*New weekly goals of more sleep and rest and sticking with the bouldering reguime.
*need to start adding in some more fingerboard work.

Cheers
Tim

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG: Get power for grit routes.
MTG: Route fitness earlier in the season.
LTG: Not sure!?

Lacking a bit of direction this week.

M: Rest
Tu: Foundry Wave bouldering.
Wed: Rest
Thu: Foundry new board.
Fr: Rest:
Sat: Eating and drinking.
Sun: Works. Campussing and comp board.

Inevitably somewhat de-motivated post Spanish trip. My plan now is to boulder until Xmas, with the aim of snatching any outdoor climbing possible. I haven’t really bouldered on steep boards for a couple of years due to injury, so keen to get on small holds and work on power and contact strength.

In reply to Simon Lee:

M 5miles (short) 28:56 core.
T 6 miles fartleck inc 4x800m efforts. climbing Mile end traverses, boldering 4xYellow, 2xOrange, leading 1x Green (O/S flash) 2x yellow.
W 11 miles 1:09:46
T 3 miles(long) 20:56 legs tired climbing Castle warm up boldering 5x5b 9x5c 1x6a deadhangs and core
F 6 miles inc 10x200m hills jog back 39-40 sec
S climbing at rivlin 1xdiff lead, 3hrs recovering from hypothermia
S climbing with novice @ stanage 1x Vdiff 1xsevere 1xHS leads

only 31 miles running but only 3 junk miles, needs a proper long run. Climbing is still showing slow improvement but I am getting my lead head back on at last.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Short Term Goals: Boulder font 7c, recover from knee injury. get properly strong arms/fingers

Long Term Goals: Boulder font 7c+

Monday: Good session on the woody
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Strong campus session, new pb's!
Thursday: Good short intense weights session
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Secret venue, climbed ok, 3 7a & 2 7a+, close on a 7b and worked 3 7c's a bit.
Sunday: Rest

Pretty good week after 3 weeks since I injured my knee in the cave. Felt good all week and climbed better then I expected to on the Saturday. Arms felt strong but finger strength has dipped a little. Need to get a fingerboard routine in place again, maybe combined with weights in a split day routine.

In reply to Simon Lee:
Goals: Climb up to F6c/7a, lead English E2. Get strong again.

M: ill
T: nothing
W: Mile End wall, did plenty of circuits
T: late night at work
F: in the car
S: quick run in the rain at Stanage
S: hungover bouldering sesh at Burbage South

Need to get flexible.

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG (whats left of 2007):
Boulder F7a, Cycle 50 miles per week.

LTG (2008):
Boulder 7b, Redpoint 7b+, Trad E4/E5, Surfing fit for two trips next year (Barbados and Indo).

Current weight: 12 st 5lbs
Fighting/Target Weight: 11 3/4 st.

Last week was poor as I was recovering from two busy weeks at work in the US, picked up a cold and had a poorly wife to look after. Although in the US I did manage a few sessions in the gym on the indoor bike.

S - Slept
M - Knackered
T - Knackered/Cold
W - Knackered/Cold
T - Knackered/Cold
F - Looked after wife after dental surgery.
S - Cycle ride - 15 miles - high heart rate

This week looks more promising with a bike ride yesterday and the opportunity for a few indoor climbing sessions.

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG: 7b+ on new year Spain trip (decided I'm going, bugger the cost!), chucked everything else gonna concentrate on this.
MTG: Font 7b, F7c (like in a year)
VLTG: F8a (6 years 1 month)

Plan is now to work power 1 day a week (bouldering) and fitness (routes) 1 day. Then if it's dry get out on the weekend either bouldering or getting on hard routes that I want to red or headpoint (I've knocked the E6 headpoint off my short term list for now in favour of training for Spain but if the conditions dictate it and the belayer's there...) and start running again (depending on achillies tendonitis).

M: Nowt
T: Bouldering @ the works - good session, did the rest of the purple circuit, apart from a couple of real desperates and a few yellows. Felt OK even with Fiend and Sloper constantly claiming everything I couldn't do was piss even when they failed or struggled - tossers)(serves me right for climbing with em I suppose).
W: Rest
T: Routes @ the edge, good session - flashed 7a and did loads of 6c's and 6c+'s.
F: Chill
S: Looked after boy, caught stomach bug.
S: Ill with above bug, tried to pull on fingerboard - failed!

All going to plan at the moment apart from the bug (and poor choice of friends) should try and fit in a fingerboard session and a run next week depending on the bug.

In reply to Simon Lee: Returning after 6 weeks out due to injury finally back to climbing regularly and trying to re-establish some consistency in training.

Goals - short term (3/4 wks)devise a new training plan, re-establish leading and lead 5+, boulder v3 indoors, medium term (10 - 12 wks) lead 6a indoors, boulder v4 indoors, boulder 6a outdoors by completing my project - 'verdigris 6a' at Brownstones and the pond traverse 5c Brownstones, long term (24 wks) lead 6b+ indoors, HVS outdoors, top rope E3

M -
T -
W -
T - 3 hrs Climbing at Preston wall - routes up to 5c
F - rest
S - 3 hrs Climbing at MCC Routes up to 6a+, 6a traversing to work on resting and recovering.
S - Bouldering at Brownstones working at highballing, stamina training on nexus wall, concentric lowers and falling practice - all a bit wet really.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Goals: Again, way too long to repeat, see http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=257930&v=1#3800530

Arrgghhh!!!!

Ill yet again last week (will this never end?). Off work Monday and Tuesday, tried to go in Wed and worked half a day. Off Thursday again. Did a full day Friday, but knackered by it. No training whatsoever .

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG - HVS mileage on grit before it gets too cold. An E1 by the year end weather permitting.
MTG - Font 7b/+ (Deliverance hopefully) by end of grit season.

M - 14km bike. Bouldering at the Castle.
T - Rest.
W - Bouldering at the Castle. Felt weak/tired but still managing to work on 6b so must be some improvement there.
T - 14km bike.
F - Rest
S - Very wet in the Peak so retired to the Climbing Works for a good session.
S - Couple of hours at the Plantation early on. Condidtions weren't fantastic. Disssapointed not to be able to get on Deliverance(a MTG) but started working out the Green Traverse.

In reply to Simon Lee:

M - Fingerboard
Tu - Fingerboard
W - Rest
Th - Fingerboard
Fri - Climbing wall session for first time in about 10 months since I sprained my ankle in Cali. Onsighted up to 10d, got pumped on an endurance/overhanging 11b/c - endurance terrible.
Sat - Fingerboard
Sun - Fingerboard

Probably too many fingerboard sessions... definitely a more structured approach this week - beginning with plenty of rest.

In reply to Simon Lee:

ST: Consolidate E2, consolidate Font 7a (tick some in Font as opposed to the Peak), certain problems at the wall
MT: Font 7b, E3

M:
T:
W:
T:
F: Bouldering at Joe Rockheads
S:
S: Bouldering at Joe Rockheads

Made it to Toronto. Didn't get much done at the start of the week. Feeling week/demotivated after font.

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG redpoint Daylight Robbery
LTG: Onsight E4, sub 5 min mile

M: 10K in Gym
T: 3M on road
W: 2 hours bouldering Swindon
T: 5 mile run + food poisining + puking
F: Bed
S: Nowt
S: Nowt - lost 3lbs

In reply to Mark Westerman:

m: Rest
t: Rest
w: Rest
t: Driving to Font
f: Elephant / Cuiver Rempart
s: Isatis / Cuisinere
s: Rain

Font trip mainly thwarted by bad weather, somehow managed to tweak my finger i havent a clue how.

In reply to Simon Lee:
M:wall, tired after also climbing at the wall sunday, not bad session, about 2.5 hrs, failed to repeat hard yellow problem. but did hard black.
T: V sore from two wall days in a row - good reminder to break into high intensity winter training slowly. Some theraband to loosen up.
W: 30 pullups and theraband
T: Wall, felt good - hard yellow problem had holds changed to make it easier. Managed hard salmon i failed on two sessions previously, pretty happy.
F: Rest, beer, curry.
S: Rain, rest, brunch. Do not train due to good forecast next day.
S: The cliff really good nick. Get close to one of my projects, flail on Jess's roof (previous STG) again. Finish off having a play on Ped arete and blockbuster at caley. Good day out.

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG (end Jan 08):
1. Climb F7b
2. Hang 2nd smallest edge on Moon fingerboard
3. Get on 45 degree board (get 1 problem)

MTG (june 08)
1. Back working on F7c (2 routes by end of summer)
2. Do finger board session + 10kg
3. 6c boulder problems (2 slab, 2 steep (45 degree, 2 other)

LTG (2 years+)
1. F8a
2. West side story @ burbage or font 7c
3. Front lever
4. Hang three finger open 1 armed from medium edge
5. Campus 1-5-9

Last week:

Continue with daily press ups of 36 in three different positions and one set of pull ups each day this week 12 again.

M: Good session at Mileend 1.5 hours, got 2 problems I had been working on. Went home did finger board session. Did press ups and pull up sets

T: Some traversing at the wall 30 mins, Press ups and pull ups, stretching.

W: Press ups and pull ups Rest

Th: Lock offs and Fingerboard session press ups and pull ups.

F: Press ups and pull ups, 30 Mins traversing. Press ups and pull ups.

Sa: 30 mins traversing, 1 hour doing problems, Flashed some 6a’s (happy with that. 45 mins on 45 degrees board, felt surprisingly good and shocked myself with some of the moves I made. Now got three problems to work on. Fingers did not even hurt so very happy.

Su: 30 mins traversing and then 30 mins lock offs and core work.

Next week: I think I might get one of the problems on the 45 board, continue as before going to do 13 pull ups daily except Sunday and add in 3 more to the press ups.

Rested for the first few days then had two days in font - did a few good problems, thanks to recent training!

Crazy Horse, Delta Rock (flash)Super Prestat (in about five or six goes - one or two lobs/slides from the top) L'Angle Parfait (quite hard for the grade), and a few other bits and pieces.

In reply to Simon Lee:

M: Pullups + 1 hour cardio.
T: Nothing
W: Yoga. Cycled up hill.
T: Hillwalk + pullups
F: 1 hour cardio + wall
S: Nothing
S: Nothing

Better week than last.

In reply to Jon Barton:

Good ticks I gather. Nice work.

In reply to IainRUK: Shit week shit diet, drunk most nights, ate too much

Or looked at another way - an excellent week

In reply to Simon Lee:

After a gentle reminder here's my week.

16 miles on bike.

Finally managed to run again! First time in 3 weeks. Managed 8 miles on Thursday (2 x 4 miles) and then 2 hours slow on Ilkley moor on saturday. Got carried away and should not have done that much as ankle flaired up again Sat and Sunday.

Got some prescription anti inflams and pain killers and running seems to be back on the cards for next week.

Now got some short and long term goals!

Short term goals - get back to fitness and 40 to 50 mile running weeks plus miles on bike

Long term goals - Good time at 3 peaks in April, train for fellsman!

In reply to Simon Lee:

Just a couple of sessions at the works this week
Really on a rest period and think I need a few weeks off then get into it again around Christmas time

In reply to Simon Lee:

UKC Fit Club Police have been hassling me.......despite last week being a record low for motivation, it would be rude not to contribute.

Following a successful first 8 days in Spain with a LTG achieved, the last 2 days of trip were un-productive

Sun : Rest day - Terredets
Mon : Warm up's + o/s attempt + flails on 7b+.
Tues : Rest - Fly home
Wed : Nout
Thurs : Shocking weights session.
Fri : 50 min Bike ride.
Sat : Nout

Generally, lacking any enthusiasm to train in a climbing related way. Considering a month off wall/bouldering and concentrating on weights and aerobic fitness, which I at least have a little enthusiasm for. Although this is unlikely to enhance my performance in Cresciano over New Year!!

On the upside, really enjoying being lazy, nerdy and shopping.

sorry i'm late

m: nowt
t: Works - 10 minutes arc, 2 x 6a on comp wall (flashes), 3 goes at a 6c - generally unstructured session
w: run 3 miles
th: nowt
fri: nowt
sat: nowt
sun: Almscliff - some easy problems and flying arete!!