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UKC Fit Club is a substitute for the UKC training diary which was promised in 2006 and shamefully has yet to appear.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday evening for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
62 diary entries last week.
Repeat contributors last week:
IainRUK
skydivingbluecat
PaulB
Andy Farnell
tobyfk
Serpico
Tony Fryer
Jenn
mbh
WEBBO/Steve Webster
Ian Jackson
TimS
Tyler
TRNovice
Wibble Wibble
CJD
craigd
biscuit
davidwright
andy reeve
jfw
tbertenshaw
Duncan Disorderly
catt
jon barton
fimm
Richard Hession
iain roberto
Burns
AJM
abarro81
necromancer85
A Jo by any other name
the colonel
kipper (the original one)
DougG
martin riddell
Si d H
Stig
trevf
JimR
SARS
ebygomm
Oli
loulou
Mark Westerman
Mark Stevenson
Seankenny
Karl Woofinden
Goonie
TomUK
Rich Kirby
galpinos
Mkean
Wilbur (finger injury)
8 New starters/returners
mattyork2
Paul748
RowieB
Derbyshire Ben
rginns
catt
Mkean
Wilbur
5 Absentees last week:
Ferrito
MattG
Burnsie
Guy Maddox
annah
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday evening for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
62 diary entries last week.
Repeat contributors last week:
IainRUK
skydivingbluecat
PaulB
Andy Farnell
tobyfk
Serpico
Tony Fryer
Jenn
mbh
WEBBO/Steve Webster
Ian Jackson
TimS
Tyler
TRNovice
Wibble Wibble
CJD
craigd
biscuit
davidwright
andy reeve
jfw
tbertenshaw
Duncan Disorderly
catt
jon barton
fimm
Richard Hession
iain roberto
Burns
AJM
abarro81
necromancer85
A Jo by any other name
the colonel
kipper (the original one)
DougG
martin riddell
Si d H
Stig
trevf
JimR
SARS
ebygomm
Oli
loulou
Mark Westerman
Mark Stevenson
Seankenny
Karl Woofinden
Goonie
TomUK
Rich Kirby
galpinos
Mkean
Wilbur (finger injury)
8 New starters/returners
mattyork2
Paul748
RowieB
Derbyshire Ben
rginns
catt
Mkean
Wilbur
5 Absentees last week:
Ferrito
MattG
Burnsie
Guy Maddox
annah
In reply to Simon Lee: Goals: Austrian Oak , Rumble in Jungle and Hasse route in 2008 and sub 1.35 in Taunton Half Marathon in May.
M. Foundry with boys – bouldered on Wave
T .
W. Foundry – routes
T. 3.5mile slow run with dog.
F. Foundry with boys – routes
S Stanage – 2hrs/13 routes
S. Foundry –3hrs/10routes
Weight: 11.6- 11.8
The plan remains to continue concentrating on bouldering and strength training but feeling jaded I decided to take a break from it for 10 days or so. Weds was a depressing eye-opener at how route unfit I had become but improved with each subsequent session.
M. Foundry with boys – bouldered on Wave
T .
W. Foundry – routes
T. 3.5mile slow run with dog.
F. Foundry with boys – routes
S Stanage – 2hrs/13 routes
S. Foundry –3hrs/10routes
Weight: 11.6- 11.8
The plan remains to continue concentrating on bouldering and strength training but feeling jaded I decided to take a break from it for 10 days or so. Weds was a depressing eye-opener at how route unfit I had become but improved with each subsequent session.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Mon: 3 miles 170m ascent
Tues: rest and stretch
Wed: 5 miles fell and road pace, 220m ascent
Thurs: 5.5 miles hill training, 280m ascent
Fri: rest
Sat: rest
Sun: 13 miles, 780m ascent
Total mileage: 26.5 miles
Total ascent: 1450m
Poor week on the ascent and missed a long run on saturday, but weather was rubbish, and low motivation, too many beers and crap diet a big factor.
Mon: 3 miles 170m ascent
Tues: rest and stretch
Wed: 5 miles fell and road pace, 220m ascent
Thurs: 5.5 miles hill training, 280m ascent
Fri: rest
Sat: rest
Sun: 13 miles, 780m ascent
Total mileage: 26.5 miles
Total ascent: 1450m
Poor week on the ascent and missed a long run on saturday, but weather was rubbish, and low motivation, too many beers and crap diet a big factor.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Diet this week has been reasonable (except fridays drinks) but exercise has been a bit of a let-down due to unforeseen circumstances...
Monday: Cycled work and back (32 miles)
Tuesday: puncture(0 miles)
Wednesday: Another puncture...
Thursday: Fixed my tyre properly (removed broken glass from it). Cycled 32 miles.
Friday: Cycled 21 miles
Saturday: Laps from my bed to the toilet (hangover)
Sunday: Still feeling wobbly and Tescos.
So, collectively, no climbing and only 85 miles this week. No gold stars for me.
Goals for the next week: check my bike over every evening before i realise at 6am i cant cycle to work, also watch my diet and do some fingerboard sessions and ab exercises.
'Til next week,
H
Diet this week has been reasonable (except fridays drinks) but exercise has been a bit of a let-down due to unforeseen circumstances...
Monday: Cycled work and back (32 miles)
Tuesday: puncture(0 miles)
Wednesday: Another puncture...
Thursday: Fixed my tyre properly (removed broken glass from it). Cycled 32 miles.
Friday: Cycled 21 miles
Saturday: Laps from my bed to the toilet (hangover)
Sunday: Still feeling wobbly and Tescos.
So, collectively, no climbing and only 85 miles this week. No gold stars for me.
Goals for the next week: check my bike over every evening before i realise at 6am i cant cycle to work, also watch my diet and do some fingerboard sessions and ab exercises.
'Til next week,
H
In reply to Simon Lee:
Short Term Goals: Boulder font 7c, recover from knee injury. Improve finger strength + general open hand
Long Term Goals: Boulder font 7c+
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: First visit to Raven Tor, ticked a few 7a's and 7b
Wednesday: Rest, felt utterly destroyed
Thursday: Felt just as bad! Was suffering with a cold (rest)
Friday: Good Fingerboard session, felt a lot better
Saturday: Christmas Shopping in Chester + a steak!
Sunday: Weather was shite, sacked off the orme, Rested
Been a very lazy weak, Never quite physically recovered from Tuesday with a combination of doing a bit more than usual and fighting off a cold most of the week (which still ingers now)! I'm working a lot this coming week so need to get something done Tuesday.
Short Term Goals: Boulder font 7c, recover from knee injury. Improve finger strength + general open hand
Long Term Goals: Boulder font 7c+
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: First visit to Raven Tor, ticked a few 7a's and 7b
Wednesday: Rest, felt utterly destroyed
Thursday: Felt just as bad! Was suffering with a cold (rest)
Friday: Good Fingerboard session, felt a lot better
Saturday: Christmas Shopping in Chester + a steak!
Sunday: Weather was shite, sacked off the orme, Rested
Been a very lazy weak, Never quite physically recovered from Tuesday with a combination of doing a bit more than usual and fighting off a cold most of the week (which still ingers now)! I'm working a lot this coming week so need to get something done Tuesday.
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: 1) boulder V3 before Xmas - this may change to doing a particular problem indoors due to poo weather.
LTG: RP F7a and onsight E3 6a
Sun - pyramid fingerboard session, core + antagonist exercises at home
Mon - Fell run - same route as last week. 5 ish miles and 1600 ish feet of ascent
Tue - Rest
Wed - Routes at Chalk Face, Egremont
Thur - endurance traverses at Cockermouth wall.
Fri - short fingerboard session
Sat - eating + drinking at in-laws
Not a bad week: Pyramids on fingerboard felt hard/different but i need to increase the intensity of my core exercises.
Run went really well after last weeks warm up. Managed to knock 6 mins off previous time. Still nearly 15 mins off my all time best though.
Routes were 1st ones at a wall since July. My strength has improved but i have no power endurance.
Short fngerboard session had to do instead of a day out due to weather/time. Used the easy metolius 10 min session off the interweb and it was easy. Will do intermediate if i have to do it again.
Need to: Keep running, stop drinking, increase core work and thinking of doing 10 min board session every non-climbing day rather than blasting my fingers with long sessions.
STG: 1) boulder V3 before Xmas - this may change to doing a particular problem indoors due to poo weather.
LTG: RP F7a and onsight E3 6a
Sun - pyramid fingerboard session, core + antagonist exercises at home
Mon - Fell run - same route as last week. 5 ish miles and 1600 ish feet of ascent
Tue - Rest
Wed - Routes at Chalk Face, Egremont
Thur - endurance traverses at Cockermouth wall.
Fri - short fingerboard session
Sat - eating + drinking at in-laws
Not a bad week: Pyramids on fingerboard felt hard/different but i need to increase the intensity of my core exercises.
Run went really well after last weeks warm up. Managed to knock 6 mins off previous time. Still nearly 15 mins off my all time best though.
Routes were 1st ones at a wall since July. My strength has improved but i have no power endurance.
Short fngerboard session had to do instead of a day out due to weather/time. Used the easy metolius 10 min session off the interweb and it was easy. Will do intermediate if i have to do it again.
Need to: Keep running, stop drinking, increase core work and thinking of doing 10 min board session every non-climbing day rather than blasting my fingers with long sessions.
In reply to Simon Lee:
M- fingerboard and core
T- mileage/power endurance at works, 20min run
W-
T- mileage/power endurance at edge, yoga
F-
S- easy day at baslow
S- harder boulders at works, core
not enough good weather and outside cranking so struggling with goals! good amount of stretching and antagonists this week which is pleasing.
plan: start skipping lectures again to get out more!
Winter goals: 5 more E6s onsight/flash, E7 in good style, WSS, 7C, flash 7B, EOTA headpoint
LTGs (next summer): E7 onsight, F7c onsight, F8a+
M- fingerboard and core
T- mileage/power endurance at works, 20min run
W-
T- mileage/power endurance at edge, yoga
F-
S- easy day at baslow
S- harder boulders at works, core
not enough good weather and outside cranking so struggling with goals! good amount of stretching and antagonists this week which is pleasing.
plan: start skipping lectures again to get out more!
Winter goals: 5 more E6s onsight/flash, E7 in good style, WSS, 7C, flash 7B, EOTA headpoint
LTGs (next summer): E7 onsight, F7c onsight, F8a+
In reply to Simon Lee:
another weak week. Still, it's giving me time to think about what I want to be doing over the next 12 months.
Tuesday: 1hr bouldering circuits
Saturday: a six mile womble between pubs in a very wet Langdale.
Wednesday and thursday involved a lot of shoulder pain, and Friday involved a visit to the physio, where it turned out I've got 'classic impingements' of both shoulders, so I have exercises to do, no climbing for two weeks, and any suggestions for lowering one's stress-ridden shoulders from somewhere up round one's ears gratefully received
another weak week. Still, it's giving me time to think about what I want to be doing over the next 12 months.
Tuesday: 1hr bouldering circuits
Saturday: a six mile womble between pubs in a very wet Langdale.
Wednesday and thursday involved a lot of shoulder pain, and Friday involved a visit to the physio, where it turned out I've got 'classic impingements' of both shoulders, so I have exercises to do, no climbing for two weeks, and any suggestions for lowering one's stress-ridden shoulders from somewhere up round one's ears gratefully received
In reply to Simon Lee:
MTG: Fnt 7c
M:
T: Pyramids Broughton
W:
T: Pyramids Broughton, short session before taking 5 days rest.
F:
S:
S: Light core work.
Will start training again Tues' pm at Broughton with an easy pyramid session, then start raising the intensity in subsequent sessions.
MTG: Fnt 7c
M:
T: Pyramids Broughton
W:
T: Pyramids Broughton, short session before taking 5 days rest.
F:
S:
S: Light core work.
Will start training again Tues' pm at Broughton with an easy pyramid session, then start raising the intensity in subsequent sessions.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Goals: Again, way too long to repeat, see http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=257930&v=1#3800530
Still ill this week - have worked two whole days and two half days in two weeks. Starting to feel better now however and at least got to the wall a few of times (more or less as I was sick of being in the house). No aerobic exercise though, hope to recommence the cycle to work mid-week.
M - Ill
T - Ill / 3 hours ultra-light bouldering at The Castle
W - Ill
Th - Ill
F - Ill / 3 hours light bouldering at The Castle
S - Starting to feel a bit better
Su - Starting to feel a bit better / 2 hours medium bouldering at The Castle
Goals: Again, way too long to repeat, see http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=257930&v=1#3800530
Still ill this week - have worked two whole days and two half days in two weeks. Starting to feel better now however and at least got to the wall a few of times (more or less as I was sick of being in the house). No aerobic exercise though, hope to recommence the cycle to work mid-week.
M - Ill
T - Ill / 3 hours ultra-light bouldering at The Castle
W - Ill
Th - Ill
F - Ill / 3 hours light bouldering at The Castle
S - Starting to feel a bit better
Su - Starting to feel a bit better / 2 hours medium bouldering at The Castle
In reply to Simon Lee:
(V)LTG: Font 7b
(V)STG: Regain strength after lay-off
M - Rest / still a bit ill
T - 3hrs bouldering at the Castle up to UK 5b - weak!
W - Rest
H - 20min run around Little Venice (hard work, but managed a reasonable 6.6mph); shoulder exercises (Internal / External Rotations, Rows and Scaptions with medium resistance band)
F - 3hrs bouldering at the Castle up to UK 5c
Sa - Beer
Su - 2hrs hung-over bouldering at the Castle up to UK 5c, highlights include cutting loose on a red UK 5c and deciding to campus the rest of the problem - hmm, maybe I'm getting back into it...
Not too bad of a week given that I haven't been climbing for ages. Grrr, waiting for my strength to come back is quite frustrating though.
Plans for this week include the same again, but hopefully a higher standard.
(V)LTG: Font 7b
(V)STG: Regain strength after lay-off
M - Rest / still a bit ill
T - 3hrs bouldering at the Castle up to UK 5b - weak!
W - Rest
H - 20min run around Little Venice (hard work, but managed a reasonable 6.6mph); shoulder exercises (Internal / External Rotations, Rows and Scaptions with medium resistance band)
F - 3hrs bouldering at the Castle up to UK 5c
Sa - Beer
Su - 2hrs hung-over bouldering at the Castle up to UK 5c, highlights include cutting loose on a red UK 5c and deciding to campus the rest of the problem - hmm, maybe I'm getting back into it...
Not too bad of a week given that I haven't been climbing for ages. Grrr, waiting for my strength to come back is quite frustrating though.
Plans for this week include the same again, but hopefully a higher standard.
In reply to Jenn:
>
It was rather reminiscent of Dr Ock chasing Spider-Man up a building, I thought you were going to rip the holds off the wall!!!
>
> highlights include cutting loose on a red UK 5c and deciding to campus the rest of the problem
It was rather reminiscent of Dr Ock chasing Spider-Man up a building, I thought you were going to rip the holds off the wall!!!
Long term goal: Redpoint 8B, Onsight 7C+, Headpoint E7, Boulder 8A
Short term goal: Get fit and get back to Redpointing 8A, climb grit E6
M. Late night at work
T. 3 Hours at works
W. Rest
Th. 2.5 hours at works
F. Rest
S. frogatt. Very cold. A few easy routes, and a bit of bouldering. Wimped out 3 times on last move of Oedipus, and then wimped out on Strapadictomy, but could not feel my hands.
S. rest
I think i need to rethink my trad goals. i am finding it all too scary. Up to E6 i wanted to climb everything ground up but not sure now. I don't get out often enough on grit to be totally comfortable with it.
Maybe with my limited time to get out if i headpoint a few easier routes then it will help me achieve my short term goal.
Short term goal: Get fit and get back to Redpointing 8A, climb grit E6
M. Late night at work
T. 3 Hours at works
W. Rest
Th. 2.5 hours at works
F. Rest
S. frogatt. Very cold. A few easy routes, and a bit of bouldering. Wimped out 3 times on last move of Oedipus, and then wimped out on Strapadictomy, but could not feel my hands.
S. rest
I think i need to rethink my trad goals. i am finding it all too scary. Up to E6 i wanted to climb everything ground up but not sure now. I don't get out often enough on grit to be totally comfortable with it.
Maybe with my limited time to get out if i headpoint a few easier routes then it will help me achieve my short term goal.
In reply to Simon Lee:
M -swim 1600m 44m
W - swim 1600m 42m
W - run 5k treadmill, 20:59
Th - run 3m, hilly 24:20
Sa - run 6.2m, 8:50 pace
Su - run 9.2m, 8:40 pace
So, have found can do sub 7:00 pace over 5k, am puzzled as to why am swimming slower over 1600m by up to 5min than I normally take, and I wish I could say that the weekend runs were intended to be that slow.
The Sunday run was in the dark, wind and rain along a trail where I passed an old guy who is walking along it, one way or another, almost every time I run that way. In the way that you eventually acknowledge someone whose path crsses your own enough times, we got chatting, standing there in the murky wind and rain. It turns out he's eighty, he walks six to twelve miles a day and is in the Guinness book of records as the oldest person ever to have walked from John o'Groats to Land's End. Moreover, he used to be a climbing instructor in the Cliff Assault wing of the Marines, based near Sennen, and knew Zeke Deacon, and Mikes McDermott and Banks. I told him how I couldn't do Zig zag, even on a tope rope ,and that I was doing what I was doing, at my age, so that I could do what he was doing, at his age.
M -swim 1600m 44m
W - swim 1600m 42m
W - run 5k treadmill, 20:59
Th - run 3m, hilly 24:20
Sa - run 6.2m, 8:50 pace
Su - run 9.2m, 8:40 pace
So, have found can do sub 7:00 pace over 5k, am puzzled as to why am swimming slower over 1600m by up to 5min than I normally take, and I wish I could say that the weekend runs were intended to be that slow.
The Sunday run was in the dark, wind and rain along a trail where I passed an old guy who is walking along it, one way or another, almost every time I run that way. In the way that you eventually acknowledge someone whose path crsses your own enough times, we got chatting, standing there in the murky wind and rain. It turns out he's eighty, he walks six to twelve miles a day and is in the Guinness book of records as the oldest person ever to have walked from John o'Groats to Land's End. Moreover, he used to be a climbing instructor in the Cliff Assault wing of the Marines, based near Sennen, and knew Zeke Deacon, and Mikes McDermott and Banks. I told him how I couldn't do Zig zag, even on a tope rope ,and that I was doing what I was doing, at my age, so that I could do what he was doing, at his age.
In reply to Simon Lee:
(new)STG: 45 min run by end of december.
MTG: V2
Achieved my STG of running 30 mins this week.
M: upper body w/o
T: 30 min run
W: rest
T: indoor climbing session, 15 min run
F: rest
S: hike 8hrs lake district
S: rest
(new)STG: 45 min run by end of december.
MTG: V2
Achieved my STG of running 30 mins this week.
M: upper body w/o
T: 30 min run
W: rest
T: indoor climbing session, 15 min run
F: rest
S: hike 8hrs lake district
S: rest
In reply to Simon Lee:
Down on last week due to social engagements on Weds & Thurs but managed a wall session on Monday and went surfing yesterday. Need to get thicker gloves!
Down on last week due to social engagements on Weds & Thurs but managed a wall session on Monday and went surfing yesterday. Need to get thicker gloves!
In reply to Simon Lee:
7 days of lurgy! Bed ridden at the begining of the week, managed to get to the wall on Sat but was pretty pedestrian.
Ugh.
7 days of lurgy! Bed ridden at the begining of the week, managed to get to the wall on Sat but was pretty pedestrian.
Ugh.
In reply to Simon Lee:
A new all time low this week as I managed about an hour at craggy island. Must try harder.
A new all time low this week as I managed about an hour at craggy island. Must try harder.
In reply to craig d:
Hi Craig
It was pretty cold on saturday I wouldnt beat yourself up.
A couple of (v.arguable)thoughts:
Grit grades are a bit wierd as a measure and I personally wouldnt use a specific grade on grit it as a goal per se - better to have specific grit routes in mind as goals. Also ignore absolute grades and stick to ground-up rather than scoring E-points on headpoint Im sure its better for the soul in the long run.
Best, Simon
Hi Craig
It was pretty cold on saturday I wouldnt beat yourself up.
A couple of (v.arguable)thoughts:
Grit grades are a bit wierd as a measure and I personally wouldnt use a specific grade on grit it as a goal per se - better to have specific grit routes in mind as goals. Also ignore absolute grades and stick to ground-up rather than scoring E-points on headpoint Im sure its better for the soul in the long run.
Best, Simon
In reply to Simon Lee: Returning after 6 weeks out due to injury finally back to climbing regularly and trying to re-establish some consistency in training.
Goals - short term (dec/jan)devise a new training plan, re-establish leading and lead 6a, boulder v3 indoors, medium term (March 08) lead 6a+ indoors, boulder v4 indoors, boulder 6a outdoors by completing my project - 'verdigris 6a' at Brownstones and the pond traverse 5c Brownstones, long term (June 08) lead 6b indoors, HVS outdoors, top rope E3 cleanly
M - Bouldering at Broughton - routes to 5b
T -
W - Climbing at Preston - routes to 6a+
T -
F -
S - Climbing at Brownstones - a few routes including dezerit 5b which I've been meaning to do for a while
S - fingerboard
Goals - short term (dec/jan)devise a new training plan, re-establish leading and lead 6a, boulder v3 indoors, medium term (March 08) lead 6a+ indoors, boulder v4 indoors, boulder 6a outdoors by completing my project - 'verdigris 6a' at Brownstones and the pond traverse 5c Brownstones, long term (June 08) lead 6b indoors, HVS outdoors, top rope E3 cleanly
M - Bouldering at Broughton - routes to 5b
T -
W - Climbing at Preston - routes to 6a+
T -
F -
S - Climbing at Brownstones - a few routes including dezerit 5b which I've been meaning to do for a while
S - fingerboard
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: Get fitter and stronger
MTG: Get fitter and stronger
LTG: 8a+
Nothing except excessive eating at the begining of the week but a shortish gym visit on Thursday and wall both weekend days.
STG: Get fitter and stronger
MTG: Get fitter and stronger
LTG: 8a+
Nothing except excessive eating at the begining of the week but a shortish gym visit on Thursday and wall both weekend days.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Mon - Martial arts training
Tue - Warrington climbing wall
Wed - Rest
Thu - Martial arts training
Fri - Warrington climbing wall
Sat - Awesome walls
Sun - Rest
Mon - Martial arts training
Tue - Warrington climbing wall
Wed - Rest
Thu - Martial arts training
Fri - Warrington climbing wall
Sat - Awesome walls
Sun - Rest
STG: Mainly boulder on the wood until Xmas and get out on the real thing as and when.
MTG: Grit & Scotland.
LTG: ?
Mon: Rest
Tue: Lunch routes Foundry. P.M. School bouldering. Predictably crap.
Wed: rest
Thu: A.M. School. Better, but tweaked lower back.
Fri. Rest
Sat: 9am warm up at school then messin on potential grit proj. very cold.
Sun: Works. Tweaked lower back (again) on warm up. Sigh.
MTG: Grit & Scotland.
LTG: ?
Mon: Rest
Tue: Lunch routes Foundry. P.M. School bouldering. Predictably crap.
Wed: rest
Thu: A.M. School. Better, but tweaked lower back.
Fri. Rest
Sat: 9am warm up at school then messin on potential grit proj. very cold.
Sun: Works. Tweaked lower back (again) on warm up. Sigh.
Short term goals:
Loose some weight, regain lost hill-fitness
Longer term goals:
Onsight a 6a at Alien Rock, complete a triathon
M: climbing Alien Rock. Shoulder still sore (I've got a physio appointment for this coming Thursday) so didn't push myself - did some more footwork exercises
Tu: ran 5.8 km in 41 minutes
W: swimming - a bit of a short session
Then had a long weekend with the bloke in the Lake District
Th: mountain biking
F: fairly short hillwalk due to poor weather
Sa: more mountain biking
Su: ran 10 km in an hour - the first time I've actually run a full 10km so pleased to do it in an hour (especially as there were several gates en route!). Then walked up the Old Man of Consiton. (The last, steep, bit HURT!!
I suspect a fairly lazy trip to the Lakes with lots of nice food and cooked breakfasts hasn't done anything for my feeble efforts to loose weight...
Loose some weight, regain lost hill-fitness
Longer term goals:
Onsight a 6a at Alien Rock, complete a triathon
M: climbing Alien Rock. Shoulder still sore (I've got a physio appointment for this coming Thursday) so didn't push myself - did some more footwork exercises
Tu: ran 5.8 km in 41 minutes
W: swimming - a bit of a short session
Then had a long weekend with the bloke in the Lake District
Th: mountain biking
F: fairly short hillwalk due to poor weather
Sa: more mountain biking
Su: ran 10 km in an hour - the first time I've actually run a full 10km so pleased to do it in an hour (especially as there were several gates en route!). Then walked up the Old Man of Consiton. (The last, steep, bit HURT!!
I suspect a fairly lazy trip to the Lakes with lots of nice food and cooked breakfasts hasn't done anything for my feeble efforts to loose weight...
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: Get a bit fitter.
LTG: F6c/7a at Portland, lead E2.
M: Ran for 25 mins
T: Stamina traversing at Westway.
W: TV!
Th: Fancy restaurant with mates I haven't seen for ages.
F: 1/2 hr swimming.
Sat: Stamina traversing at Westway.
Sun: 1/2 hr swimming.
Woke up on Sunday to find a sore finger on left hand. Might have to take it easy this week...
STG: Get a bit fitter.
LTG: F6c/7a at Portland, lead E2.
M: Ran for 25 mins
T: Stamina traversing at Westway.
W: TV!
Th: Fancy restaurant with mates I haven't seen for ages.
F: 1/2 hr swimming.
Sat: Stamina traversing at Westway.
Sun: 1/2 hr swimming.
Woke up on Sunday to find a sore finger on left hand. Might have to take it easy this week...
In reply to Simon Lee:
m: AM: 6.6 miles qurry loop. PM: 5 mile track sesion.
t: 6.6 mile run, Pen Y Pass return 47 mins.
w: 9 mile run on Angelsey roads
t: 7.5 mile run Moel Y Ci
f: 6.6 mile run beddgellert forest
s: football game, wo 4-1
s: 9 mile fell race, 15th in 1:23:35.
m: AM: 6.6 miles qurry loop. PM: 5 mile track sesion.
t: 6.6 mile run, Pen Y Pass return 47 mins.
w: 9 mile run on Angelsey roads
t: 7.5 mile run Moel Y Ci
f: 6.6 mile run beddgellert forest
s: football game, wo 4-1
s: 9 mile fell race, 15th in 1:23:35.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Aim: Stop Slacking Off (although in my defence I was in Romania and on a course for atleast a section of my slackerness)
Sunday: 1hr gym 1hr swim
Monday: Long walk avec dug
Tuesday: 1hr Gym
Wednesday: Gym, bought new pair of climbing shoes, had a peak at new aberdeen wall
Thursday: Swim 1hr
Friday: Slob day
Saturday: oot sawing trees down all day
Aim: Stop Slacking Off (although in my defence I was in Romania and on a course for atleast a section of my slackerness)
Sunday: 1hr gym 1hr swim
Monday: Long walk avec dug
Tuesday: 1hr Gym
Wednesday: Gym, bought new pair of climbing shoes, had a peak at new aberdeen wall
Thursday: Swim 1hr
Friday: Slob day
Saturday: oot sawing trees down all day
In reply to Simon Lee:
MTG: complete F7b-F7c'ish project bolted during the summer
LTG: F8a or 5.13 redpoint
Third successive week blighted by non-climbing-related travel
M. <just arrived in capital of major asian country> feeling like sh*t ... business meetings
T. feeling like sh*t ... business meetings ... evening visit to local wall with local UKC rep, surprising myself by doing ~10 routes to F6b+
W. feeling worse ... business meetings
T. health vaguely stablising ... business meetings
F. more business meetings ... went out on town until 4am then stayed awake to catch bus to airport
S. <flight><another flight>
S. worthy session on home bouldering wall working on moves specific to current project ... fairly energetic hour of football straight after. Feel slightly less slug-like than I'd feared.
Nothing disruptive in the diary for next month and lots of time off due, so hopefully things get better from here.
MTG: complete F7b-F7c'ish project bolted during the summer
LTG: F8a or 5.13 redpoint
Third successive week blighted by non-climbing-related travel
M. <just arrived in capital of major asian country> feeling like sh*t ... business meetings
T. feeling like sh*t ... business meetings ... evening visit to local wall with local UKC rep, surprising myself by doing ~10 routes to F6b+
W. feeling worse ... business meetings
T. health vaguely stablising ... business meetings
F. more business meetings ... went out on town until 4am then stayed awake to catch bus to airport
S. <flight><another flight>
S. worthy session on home bouldering wall working on moves specific to current project ... fairly energetic hour of football straight after. Feel slightly less slug-like than I'd feared.
Nothing disruptive in the diary for next month and lots of time off due, so hopefully things get better from here.
In reply to Simon Lee: In reply to Simon Lee: a week off this week - apart from 2 hours down the works getting burnt off.
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG & LTG: get fitter
Mon - 8 miles cycling
Tue - 8 miles cycling
Wed - 8 miles cycling
Thu - 8 miles cycling
Fri - 8 miles cycling
Sat - 16 miles cycling
Sun - Rest Day
Dead hangs and pull ups at various random times throughout the week.
STG & LTG: get fitter
Mon - 8 miles cycling
Tue - 8 miles cycling
Wed - 8 miles cycling
Thu - 8 miles cycling
Fri - 8 miles cycling
Sat - 16 miles cycling
Sun - Rest Day
Dead hangs and pull ups at various random times throughout the week.
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: Maintain fitness and build up climbing strength
MTG: Improve flexibility
(V!)LTG: Lead E1
M: Had to work late, missed yoga
T: 3 hour routes session at The Edge
W: 45 min road run
T: 45 min road run
F: Nowt.
S: 8 mile fell run/scramble
S: 45 min road run followed by proper stretching (for a change) pull ups and sit ups.
Not climbed enough this week due to busy week at work/disappointing weather. Plan to make up for it this week tho…
STG: Maintain fitness and build up climbing strength
MTG: Improve flexibility
(V!)LTG: Lead E1
M: Had to work late, missed yoga
T: 3 hour routes session at The Edge
W: 45 min road run
T: 45 min road run
F: Nowt.
S: 8 mile fell run/scramble
S: 45 min road run followed by proper stretching (for a change) pull ups and sit ups.
Not climbed enough this week due to busy week at work/disappointing weather. Plan to make up for it this week tho…
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG - 2007
* 3 x f8a's in 2007 (2 sofar),
* Tick 1 Broughton 6c,
* 20 x 6b+'s (5)
* 30 x 6b's, (27)
* 50 x 6a+'s (44)
* 71 x 6a's (66)
MTG -Till Easter 2008
1 font 7b
10 font 7's
LTG (2008)
10 x f8's
1 x f8a+
font 7C
Weight 67.4KG AVG
M REST Boulderuk
T REST Broughton
W REST Boulderuk
T REST Broughton (strongest 4th day on)
F REST
S Broughton
S Broughton
*4 days bouldering straight, hoping to see if this makes a difference without getting injured.
*kept up with getting more sleep but sacrificed Gym for this. got between 7.5 and 8 and half.
*spent a fair bit of time working problems i couldn't do at broughton. Its hard on the motivation but good when you realise you are working hard and over time you'll get stronger at the moves and then be able to do them.
*Think i would gain a lot more from being much stronger locking off close to the waist whilst reaching high.
*A little more dynamic movement also would be useful.
*did start to add in a little campus work although i am rubbish at this so hoping to see some improvement rather than injury.
*Fingerboard! fingerboard! fingerboard!
*keep up with the increased sleep this week.
*gonna take a 3 day rest this weekend i think.
Cheers
Tim
STG - 2007
* 3 x f8a's in 2007 (2 sofar),
* Tick 1 Broughton 6c,
* 20 x 6b+'s (5)
* 30 x 6b's, (27)
* 50 x 6a+'s (44)
* 71 x 6a's (66)
MTG -Till Easter 2008
1 font 7b
10 font 7's
LTG (2008)
10 x f8's
1 x f8a+
font 7C
Weight 67.4KG AVG
M REST Boulderuk
T REST Broughton
W REST Boulderuk
T REST Broughton (strongest 4th day on)
F REST
S Broughton
S Broughton
*4 days bouldering straight, hoping to see if this makes a difference without getting injured.
*kept up with getting more sleep but sacrificed Gym for this. got between 7.5 and 8 and half.
*spent a fair bit of time working problems i couldn't do at broughton. Its hard on the motivation but good when you realise you are working hard and over time you'll get stronger at the moves and then be able to do them.
*Think i would gain a lot more from being much stronger locking off close to the waist whilst reaching high.
*A little more dynamic movement also would be useful.
*did start to add in a little campus work although i am rubbish at this so hoping to see some improvement rather than injury.
*Fingerboard! fingerboard! fingerboard!
*keep up with the increased sleep this week.
*gonna take a 3 day rest this weekend i think.
Cheers
Tim
In reply to Simon Lee: Better than last week. Had a very good weekend of productive training with mates. Now feeling massively pysched and looking forward to starting a new training cycle working on general fitness and endurance for the next month or two.
M - nil
T - Routes @ local school wall
W - nil
T - nil
F - nil
S - Hill Sprints, Boulder Comp at Dynamic Rock
S - 30min Run, BMC Leading Ladder Routes & Circuits @ Bristol.
Flashed the BMC LL 7a and had 2 good but failed attempts on the 7b. Feeling fresh I think it will go later this week, unfortunately too late to score though.
2007 goal of E5 onsight looks liike being missed as is my STG of UK 7b redpoints. Have started thinking about new goals for the start of 2008.
M - nil
T - Routes @ local school wall
W - nil
T - nil
F - nil
S - Hill Sprints, Boulder Comp at Dynamic Rock
S - 30min Run, BMC Leading Ladder Routes & Circuits @ Bristol.
Flashed the BMC LL 7a and had 2 good but failed attempts on the 7b. Feeling fresh I think it will go later this week, unfortunately too late to score though.
2007 goal of E5 onsight looks liike being missed as is my STG of UK 7b redpoints. Have started thinking about new goals for the start of 2008.
In reply to Simon Lee:
M 5 miles (short) 28:24
T 5 miles fartleck ~400m efforts, climbing at mile end traverses, movement exercises on a top rope then leading 4xyellow 1xgreen and core exercises
W rest
T 7.5 miles 46:16, Climbing @ castle warm up with movement work boldering 4x5b 10x5c 1x6a, deadhangs and core work.
F 6 miles slow
S 17.5 miles 1:55:10 (previously 18 but now think 17.5 is more accurate)
S climbing @ castle warm up 30 mins traverses + movement exercises. Endurance boldering session all flashed about 50% OS 13x5a 12x5b 5x5c with 6 or 7 failures as well.
All in all a good week, 40+ miles running for only the second time in the last two months though it could do with the junk session becoming an interval one. A good volume of climbing with some signs of improvement mainly need more proper leading.
M 5 miles (short) 28:24
T 5 miles fartleck ~400m efforts, climbing at mile end traverses, movement exercises on a top rope then leading 4xyellow 1xgreen and core exercises
W rest
T 7.5 miles 46:16, Climbing @ castle warm up with movement work boldering 4x5b 10x5c 1x6a, deadhangs and core work.
F 6 miles slow
S 17.5 miles 1:55:10 (previously 18 but now think 17.5 is more accurate)
S climbing @ castle warm up 30 mins traverses + movement exercises. Endurance boldering session all flashed about 50% OS 13x5a 12x5b 5x5c with 6 or 7 failures as well.
All in all a good week, 40+ miles running for only the second time in the last two months though it could do with the junk session becoming an interval one. A good volume of climbing with some signs of improvement mainly need more proper leading.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Getting it done early this week....
Goals: 7b+ on new year sport trip, get stronger and climb font 7b.
M: Chill and get rid of stomach bug.
T: Bouldering @ the edge, good long session left feeling trashed and managed to complete a few things left over from me last session there.
W: Rest
T: Works bouldering, another long session, did most of the left over problems from the purple circuit and a couple more yellows. Tried but failed to pull on me fingerboard (just about hung medium holds) when I got back, must save some beans for this next week.
F: Chill and drink red wine
S: 2hr yomp in the Peak carrying me boy, felt suitably tired afterwards - earned curry and wine.
S: 6 hr session at Leeds wall, loads of routes, a bit of bouldering, felt weak but persevered and feel trashed today so must be doing some good.
Not a bad week all told, was aiming for a run but substituted it for a long yomp with the family, fingerboard session was woeful but feel that I actually got quite a bit of climbing done so it's all good.
This week - try and get a run and a fingerboard session in along with 1 bouldering session, 1 routes session and a trip outside depending on conditions.
Getting it done early this week....
Goals: 7b+ on new year sport trip, get stronger and climb font 7b.
M: Chill and get rid of stomach bug.
T: Bouldering @ the edge, good long session left feeling trashed and managed to complete a few things left over from me last session there.
W: Rest
T: Works bouldering, another long session, did most of the left over problems from the purple circuit and a couple more yellows. Tried but failed to pull on me fingerboard (just about hung medium holds) when I got back, must save some beans for this next week.
F: Chill and drink red wine
S: 2hr yomp in the Peak carrying me boy, felt suitably tired afterwards - earned curry and wine.
S: 6 hr session at Leeds wall, loads of routes, a bit of bouldering, felt weak but persevered and feel trashed today so must be doing some good.
Not a bad week all told, was aiming for a run but substituted it for a long yomp with the family, fingerboard session was woeful but feel that I actually got quite a bit of climbing done so it's all good.
This week - try and get a run and a fingerboard session in along with 1 bouldering session, 1 routes session and a trip outside depending on conditions.
In reply to Simon Lee:
S Kinder, walking.
m Weights session.
t Routes at Wall (not at all psyched)
w
t Weights session
f
s Macc Forrest, walking
Still struggling with motivation and little to aim for. However,as of last night psyche seems on the UP following change of plan for New Year
S Kinder, walking.
m Weights session.
t Routes at Wall (not at all psyched)
w
t Weights session
f
s Macc Forrest, walking
Still struggling with motivation and little to aim for. However,as of last night psyche seems on the UP following change of plan for New Year
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG - Get back up to 40 - 50 miles pw running
LTG - 3 Peaks good time and train for fellsman
Better week now i am coming out the back of an Injury (or so I thought)
Mon - 8 miles bike
Tues - 8 Miles bike 6 miles running roads including 6 x 800m hill reps
Wed - 8 miles road running
Thur - nothing
Fri- nothing
Sat - 4 miles easy
Sun - 3 hour fell score orienteering event around Hope/Edale and Kinder - 11th overall (7th in category)
Quite happy with week and event as first week with decent activity. Ankle flaired up last night and think I can firmly say it is my inov8s. Back to icing, ibuprofen and less time in fell shoes.
STG - nearly there, should be there this week hopefully
LTG - Dropping Fellsman from LTG, have loads more that I will add once I get next years event diary sorted.
STG - Get back up to 40 - 50 miles pw running
LTG - 3 Peaks good time and train for fellsman
Better week now i am coming out the back of an Injury (or so I thought)
Mon - 8 miles bike
Tues - 8 Miles bike 6 miles running roads including 6 x 800m hill reps
Wed - 8 miles road running
Thur - nothing
Fri- nothing
Sat - 4 miles easy
Sun - 3 hour fell score orienteering event around Hope/Edale and Kinder - 11th overall (7th in category)
Quite happy with week and event as first week with decent activity. Ankle flaired up last night and think I can firmly say it is my inov8s. Back to icing, ibuprofen and less time in fell shoes.
STG - nearly there, should be there this week hopefully
LTG - Dropping Fellsman from LTG, have loads more that I will add once I get next years event diary sorted.
m: yoga (first in ages - shock to system)
t: works (still knackered from yoga)
w: rest
t: works, easy milage
f: run 3.68 miles
s: burbage north and west, british grades: 4c, 4c, 5a, 5c, 6a, 6b, 6a, 5b,
s: rest
t: works (still knackered from yoga)
w: rest
t: works, easy milage
f: run 3.68 miles
s: burbage north and west, british grades: 4c, 4c, 5a, 5c, 6a, 6b, 6a, 5b,
s: rest
In reply to Simon Lee:
M - rest
T - fingerboard
W - fingerboard
T - rest/beer
F - rest
S - rest
S - climbing outside. Some easy stuff (including failing to onsight some easy stuff), got on a 12b/c which felt beyond me now but doable if I keep the training up.
New STG - redpoint the 12b/c
MTG - redpoint more 12s
Beautiful setting on Sunday, Japan has amazing scenery.
M - rest
T - fingerboard
W - fingerboard
T - rest/beer
F - rest
S - rest
S - climbing outside. Some easy stuff (including failing to onsight some easy stuff), got on a 12b/c which felt beyond me now but doable if I keep the training up.
New STG - redpoint the 12b/c
MTG - redpoint more 12s
Beautiful setting on Sunday, Japan has amazing scenery.
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG - An E1 by the year end weather permitting. 10sec Dead hang the 2nd smallest crimps of a Moon board by the new year.
MTG (to Easter) - Font 7b/+ (Deliverance hopefully) by end of grit season. E1 if not done already.
M - 14km bike.
T - Rest.
W - 14km bike. Short run (2.5km). Bouldering at the Castle. Good session
T - 14km bike.
F - 14km bike.
S - Short run. Bouldering at the Castle. Unstructured hang session.
S - Rest
STG - An E1 by the year end weather permitting. 10sec Dead hang the 2nd smallest crimps of a Moon board by the new year.
MTG (to Easter) - Font 7b/+ (Deliverance hopefully) by end of grit season. E1 if not done already.
M - 14km bike.
T - Rest.
W - 14km bike. Short run (2.5km). Bouldering at the Castle. Good session
T - 14km bike.
F - 14km bike.
S - Short run. Bouldering at the Castle. Unstructured hang session.
S - Rest
In reply to Simon Lee:
goal climb font7b+
m.unable to climb due to bruised forearm as a result of falling off mountain bike.
t.1hr 20 mins on turbo.
w. nothing as a result of major problems with teenage daughter.
th. rockcity 30 problems nothing too hard fore arm a bit stiff.
fri. weights.50 mins on turbo.
sat rockcity problems reset did about 25 nothing too hard.
sun weights.55mins turbo
shit week loads of problems with daughter which meant i had to near by to provide united front with the missus.
goal climb font7b+
m.unable to climb due to bruised forearm as a result of falling off mountain bike.
t.1hr 20 mins on turbo.
w. nothing as a result of major problems with teenage daughter.
th. rockcity 30 problems nothing too hard fore arm a bit stiff.
fri. weights.50 mins on turbo.
sat rockcity problems reset did about 25 nothing too hard.
sun weights.55mins turbo
shit week loads of problems with daughter which meant i had to near by to provide united front with the missus.
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG - Climb well on mallorca trip F7b+
LTG - V8
M - Slit thumb open by being a prat
T -
W - Mile End - Good session bit of a lay off has done me good but can't climb properly due to thumb
Rest of week - Decide that healing thumb is more important than training as off on trip.
Won't be posting next week due to being in Mallorca
STG - Climb well on mallorca trip F7b+
LTG - V8
M - Slit thumb open by being a prat
T -
W - Mile End - Good session bit of a lay off has done me good but can't climb properly due to thumb
Rest of week - Decide that healing thumb is more important than training as off on trip.
Won't be posting next week due to being in Mallorca
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: Purely bouldering now, some specific goals but just generally get out without my routes head engaged.
MTG: Get stronger on slopers for Font in Jan.
LTG: Regularly lead E6 on all rock types; Urgent action.
M:Rest
T:Rest
W:Endurance at works - intervals on board.
T:Routes at Edge - loads better than last week! Good session.
F:Worked long day
S:Bouldered at Baslow, not much done so finished at Works - felt good.
S:Christ I was hungover.
Summary
Not done loads this week but maybe prudent given I want to hammer the bouldering for the next month to be ready for Font. Left knee still giving trouble, but improving steadily. Haven't had opportunity for routes STG for last month so sacking that off now, succeeded on two of the three onsights I wanted, other was GU, so very happy anyway. Have reverted to zero core work again, oops.
Plan
Loads and loads of core work!
Campus, hang board, boulder, Short but intense sessions is way forward I think.
Works comp on Friday, something to keep me motivated through the rain.
STG: Purely bouldering now, some specific goals but just generally get out without my routes head engaged.
MTG: Get stronger on slopers for Font in Jan.
LTG: Regularly lead E6 on all rock types; Urgent action.
M:Rest
T:Rest
W:Endurance at works - intervals on board.
T:Routes at Edge - loads better than last week! Good session.
F:Worked long day
S:Bouldered at Baslow, not much done so finished at Works - felt good.
S:Christ I was hungover.
Summary
Not done loads this week but maybe prudent given I want to hammer the bouldering for the next month to be ready for Font. Left knee still giving trouble, but improving steadily. Haven't had opportunity for routes STG for last month so sacking that off now, succeeded on two of the three onsights I wanted, other was GU, so very happy anyway. Have reverted to zero core work again, oops.
Plan
Loads and loads of core work!
Campus, hang board, boulder, Short but intense sessions is way forward I think.
Works comp on Friday, something to keep me motivated through the rain.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Swwet fa this week as my girlfriend came out to see me. Eaten really badly (or well, depending on how you look at it).
Getting back into it this week.
Swwet fa this week as my girlfriend came out to see me. Eaten really badly (or well, depending on how you look at it).
Getting back into it this week.
STG (whats left of 2007):
Boulder F7a, Cycle 50 miles per week.
LTG (2008):
Boulder 7b, Redpoint 7b+, Trad E4/E5, Surfing fit for two trips next year (Barbados and Indo).
Current weight: 12 st 6lbs
Fighting/Target Weight: 12 st.
S - Recovering from cold - 15 mile bike ride
M - Felt much better - 20 mile bike ride
T - Travelled to Aberdeen & Worked
W - 45 Minute run/fartleck + Core/Body Weight Exercise - Flew home.
T - Worked into the evening - Light fingerboard session, drank too much wine.
F - Worked all day
S - Finger board, Core/Body Weight and 45 Minute Run
Last week was good and felt like I'd broken into a routine or at least a state of mind of really "wanting it". I'm seeing a personal trainer tomorrow as I'm travelling so much with work (off to the US again this coming weekend) that I need a routine that I can travel with and use in the gyms.
Boulder F7a, Cycle 50 miles per week.
LTG (2008):
Boulder 7b, Redpoint 7b+, Trad E4/E5, Surfing fit for two trips next year (Barbados and Indo).
Current weight: 12 st 6lbs
Fighting/Target Weight: 12 st.
S - Recovering from cold - 15 mile bike ride
M - Felt much better - 20 mile bike ride
T - Travelled to Aberdeen & Worked
W - 45 Minute run/fartleck + Core/Body Weight Exercise - Flew home.
T - Worked into the evening - Light fingerboard session, drank too much wine.
F - Worked all day
S - Finger board, Core/Body Weight and 45 Minute Run
Last week was good and felt like I'd broken into a routine or at least a state of mind of really "wanting it". I'm seeing a personal trainer tomorrow as I'm travelling so much with work (off to the US again this coming weekend) that I need a routine that I can travel with and use in the gyms.
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: be climbing again by early January (out of my control really, short of making sure I dont stub my toe)
LTG: E2 and several E1s by April
M: fingerboard session
T: fingerboard session, 2 mile run
W: nothing
T: fingerboard session
F: 4.5 mile run
S: nothing
S: fingerboard session
STG: be climbing again by early January (out of my control really, short of making sure I dont stub my toe)
LTG: E2 and several E1s by April
M: fingerboard session
T: fingerboard session, 2 mile run
W: nothing
T: fingerboard session
F: 4.5 mile run
S: nothing
S: fingerboard session
In reply to Simon Lee:
Constant routines
One gym session per week, focus mainly on antagonists and cardio although with a bit of weights thrown in every now and again
One preferably two board sessions per week, continue pushing myself there. If only one board session then some fingerboard training etc to supplment it on at least one day
Climbing as many weekends as possible - training instead if the weather sucks
Winter-time goals...... By my birthday (start of March) I would like to have:
Done trad when weather allows, aim to get more comfortable down at Swanage doing as many of the classic HVS/E1 routes as possible
Bouldered V4 and hopefully V5
Redpointed a number of (say 3) French 7as
Led WI5. Also led Scot V if I've made it to Scotland in the winter.
Got myself in a good position for a trip to Siurana mid-March with the optimistic goal of having a crack at a 7a+ R/P
M: Rest. Up in Cambridge in the evening.
T: Rest. In Cambridge, few drinks in the evening.
W: Mile End. Reasonable session, although realised that slopers and lockoffs limit me a bit. Too many board problems with no rules for feet has improved my twisting on steep ground but not worked my face-on strength.
T: Board. Work a bit on another steep problem, devise a henious sloper problem, and try the pocket problem I devised a while back - making progress.
F: Rest
S: Dancing Ledges. Worked the (quite unobvious) moves on Rambling Moses (6b+) before the rain started. Went and hid under the overhangs near Sugar Ray, made reasonable progress on the V4 start of the 6c+ next to it.
S: Rest - up to Oxford in the afternoon.
Feeling a bit uninspired. Have developed a habit of not warming up properly due to lack of inspiring easier routes, and hence sessions haven't been as good as they could be. Also had trouble finding something suitably inspiring to try to project. That and the bad weather haven't been kind to my psyche.
Still, I had a look at a different training book on Tues, and the idea of pyramid structures to your best routes appeals - need to get on a load of 6cs and 6c+s to get my personal pyramid back into balance for progressing to 7a
AJM
Constant routines
Winter-time goals...... By my birthday (start of March) I would like to have:
M: Rest. Up in Cambridge in the evening.
T: Rest. In Cambridge, few drinks in the evening.
W: Mile End. Reasonable session, although realised that slopers and lockoffs limit me a bit. Too many board problems with no rules for feet has improved my twisting on steep ground but not worked my face-on strength.
T: Board. Work a bit on another steep problem, devise a henious sloper problem, and try the pocket problem I devised a while back - making progress.
F: Rest
S: Dancing Ledges. Worked the (quite unobvious) moves on Rambling Moses (6b+) before the rain started. Went and hid under the overhangs near Sugar Ray, made reasonable progress on the V4 start of the 6c+ next to it.
S: Rest - up to Oxford in the afternoon.
Feeling a bit uninspired. Have developed a habit of not warming up properly due to lack of inspiring easier routes, and hence sessions haven't been as good as they could be. Also had trouble finding something suitably inspiring to try to project. That and the bad weather haven't been kind to my psyche.
Still, I had a look at a different training book on Tues, and the idea of pyramid structures to your best routes appeals - need to get on a load of 6cs and 6c+s to get my personal pyramid back into balance for progressing to 7a
AJM
In reply to Simon Lee: Nothing. Diddly squat. Zilch. Zero.
Severe lack of motivation, lots of work and family time means no climbing for me. Must try much harder. But then again I'm still not feeling 100% in myself, so an enforced break to re-charge may not be a bad idea.
Andy F
Severe lack of motivation, lots of work and family time means no climbing for me. Must try much harder. But then again I'm still not feeling 100% in myself, so an enforced break to re-charge may not be a bad idea.
Andy F
M: 3 hours climbing at Calshot
T: Rest
W: took it easy on college wall
T: college wall- climbed very well 2hrs
F: Rest
S: Nothing
S: easy bouldering at the cuttings
finally showing signs of improvement again.
doing more excercise but the college work has gone down hill!
still need to fix puncture!
In reply to AJM:
Is everyone planning to go back to Siurana again this coming March then? I must admit I'd been hoping we'd all go somewhere different this time...after the last two years there Ive done almost everything I can do, unless I can really sort myself out and drag myself up to redpointing 7a (gulp). not that it isn't good, but isn't anyone else feeling like trying somewhere else?
(or are you going separately from others and me talking gobbledegook?)
> (In reply to Simon Lee)
> Got myself in a good position for a trip to Siurana mid-March with the optimistic goal of having a crack at a 7a+ R/P
Is everyone planning to go back to Siurana again this coming March then? I must admit I'd been hoping we'd all go somewhere different this time...after the last two years there Ive done almost everything I can do, unless I can really sort myself out and drag myself up to redpointing 7a (gulp). not that it isn't good, but isn't anyone else feeling like trying somewhere else?
(or are you going separately from others and me talking gobbledegook?)
In reply to Si dH:
I'm told so. I've taken 2 days off work to make a 4 day trip, and I'm told that its likely to be there.
You'll have to get stronger, perhaps. You seem to have taken to excessive fingerboarding at the moment, so it can't be that far away. If I can aim at 7a, so can you, after all.
I wouldn't mind elsewhere. But by all accounts its a pretty much ideal location for cheap budget scummy-student trips, so I suspect they will be going back. And I don't mind, since I've never been there before. Personally, I like the sound of the Frankenjura or the South of France (Blavet or somewhere else in Provence, I got told great things about Seynes by Yuri) at some point, but I think you need a hire car for there so may be less appropriate for them.
AJM
I'm told so. I've taken 2 days off work to make a 4 day trip, and I'm told that its likely to be there.
You'll have to get stronger, perhaps. You seem to have taken to excessive fingerboarding at the moment, so it can't be that far away. If I can aim at 7a, so can you, after all.
I wouldn't mind elsewhere. But by all accounts its a pretty much ideal location for cheap budget scummy-student trips, so I suspect they will be going back. And I don't mind, since I've never been there before. Personally, I like the sound of the Frankenjura or the South of France (Blavet or somewhere else in Provence, I got told great things about Seynes by Yuri) at some point, but I think you need a hire car for there so may be less appropriate for them.
AJM
In reply to Simon Lee:
M - Mile End bouldering, Completed STG poblem
T - Short Run
W -
Th - Mile End Bouldering
Fri -
Sat -
S - Long Walk, Short Hard Run, Fingerboard Session
M - Mile End bouldering, Completed STG poblem
T - Short Run
W -
Th - Mile End Bouldering
Fri -
Sat -
S - Long Walk, Short Hard Run, Fingerboard Session
In reply to Simon Lee:
M- Astanga Yoga
T- Climbing indoors
W- nah
Th -Yoga and Korball
F- nah
S- Walk around the 'dam
S - nah
M- Astanga Yoga
T- Climbing indoors
W- nah
Th -Yoga and Korball
F- nah
S- Walk around the 'dam
S - nah
In reply to loulou:
M- rest from font
T- rest from font
W- climbing works - both injured finger sore
T- sulk/rest
F- sulk/rest/eat pie and chips
S- sulk/rest - swelling down
S- Rest
Not a productive week, i'm thoroughly fed up of my various niggles. I'm going to try and get psyched for core and stretching but its a big ask.
M- rest from font
T- rest from font
W- climbing works - both injured finger sore
T- sulk/rest
F- sulk/rest/eat pie and chips
S- sulk/rest - swelling down
S- Rest
Not a productive week, i'm thoroughly fed up of my various niggles. I'm going to try and get psyched for core and stretching but its a big ask.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Mon - Fingerboard
Tue - Gym. 2K rowing, squats, calf raises, etc.
Wed - Gym. 1K rowing upper body
Thu - Rest
Fri - 1 hour run
Sat - 6 mile walk and 9 hour drinking session.
Sun - Unsurprisingly, rest.
Mon - Fingerboard
Tue - Gym. 2K rowing, squats, calf raises, etc.
Wed - Gym. 1K rowing upper body
Thu - Rest
Fri - 1 hour run
Sat - 6 mile walk and 9 hour drinking session.
Sun - Unsurprisingly, rest.
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG (end Jan 08):
1. Climb F7b
2. Hang 2nd smallest edge on Moon fingerboard
3. Get on 45 degree board (get 1 problem)
MTG (june 08)
1. Back working on F7c (2 routes by end of summer)
2. Do finger board session + 10kg
3. 6c boulder problems (2 slab, 2 steep (45 degree, 2 other)
LTG (2 years+)
1. F8a
2. West side story @ burbage or font 7c
3. Front lever
4. Hang three finger open 1 armed from medium edge
5. Campus 1-5-9
Last week:
Continue with daily press ups of 39 in three different positions and one set of pull ups each day this week 13.
M: Good session at Mileend 1.5 hours, got a 6a problem on the 45 degree board on third attempt, tried some other problems, felt strong and no pain.
T: AM: Fingerboard session starting to get somewhere on the small crimps and holding for 8 to 10 seconds X 5 on 5 sets of holds. Some pain in right forearm on two fingers however (think I WILL BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THESE). PM:Some traversing at the wall 30 mins, Press ups and pull ups, stretching.
W: Press ups and pull ups Rest
Th: 1.5 hours climbing back on 45 degree board, the problem I got on Monday already feels like a warm up problem. Tried other stuff fell off lots but generally made a little progress. Got home rested 2 hours then Lock offs and Fingerboard session managed to hang the 2nd smallest edge on moon board for 3 secs (stg) press ups and pull ups.
F: Set som,e problems at the wall tried them out and then did bugger all.
Sa: East Vs West comp at Mileend felt good early on flashed some V6’s felt OK close to a V7 (shocked myself) fell off some technical V5’s and V4’s set by JD got frustrated by my lack of stamina for the comps. however got my highest score yet and was reasonably pleased..
Su: Did nothing rest all day
Next week: Need to rethink my short term goals as I have got two of them already, will have a think about this for next week. I am going to increase my daily pull-ups to 14 and pushups to 42. Going to really start working on flexibility especially highstepping as this let me down in the comp.
STG (end Jan 08):
1. Climb F7b
2. Hang 2nd smallest edge on Moon fingerboard
3. Get on 45 degree board (get 1 problem)
MTG (june 08)
1. Back working on F7c (2 routes by end of summer)
2. Do finger board session + 10kg
3. 6c boulder problems (2 slab, 2 steep (45 degree, 2 other)
LTG (2 years+)
1. F8a
2. West side story @ burbage or font 7c
3. Front lever
4. Hang three finger open 1 armed from medium edge
5. Campus 1-5-9
Last week:
Continue with daily press ups of 39 in three different positions and one set of pull ups each day this week 13.
M: Good session at Mileend 1.5 hours, got a 6a problem on the 45 degree board on third attempt, tried some other problems, felt strong and no pain.
T: AM: Fingerboard session starting to get somewhere on the small crimps and holding for 8 to 10 seconds X 5 on 5 sets of holds. Some pain in right forearm on two fingers however (think I WILL BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THESE). PM:Some traversing at the wall 30 mins, Press ups and pull ups, stretching.
W: Press ups and pull ups Rest
Th: 1.5 hours climbing back on 45 degree board, the problem I got on Monday already feels like a warm up problem. Tried other stuff fell off lots but generally made a little progress. Got home rested 2 hours then Lock offs and Fingerboard session managed to hang the 2nd smallest edge on moon board for 3 secs (stg) press ups and pull ups.
F: Set som,e problems at the wall tried them out and then did bugger all.
Sa: East Vs West comp at Mileend felt good early on flashed some V6’s felt OK close to a V7 (shocked myself) fell off some technical V5’s and V4’s set by JD got frustrated by my lack of stamina for the comps. however got my highest score yet and was reasonably pleased..
Su: Did nothing rest all day
Next week: Need to rethink my short term goals as I have got two of them already, will have a think about this for next week. I am going to increase my daily pull-ups to 14 and pushups to 42. Going to really start working on flexibility especially highstepping as this let me down in the comp.
In reply to Simon Lee:
M:nowt
T: Wall, ok sesh
W: Theraband and free weights
T: Wall, good sesh
F: Booze
S: Cliff, cold, windy did moves I hadn't done on project before and big link, pretty happy
S: Rain, outdoors DIY and shack session.
M:nowt
T: Wall, ok sesh
W: Theraband and free weights
T: Wall, good sesh
F: Booze
S: Cliff, cold, windy did moves I hadn't done on project before and big link, pretty happy
S: Rain, outdoors DIY and shack session.
In reply to Simon Lee:
M: 10K
T: Nothing
W: 6M run + 2 hours bouldering at Swindon
T: 40mins Pyramid training
F: 3.5M
S: Wharncliffe coule of leeds, few top-ropes (shock horror)
S: Leeds wall - reps on the main overhanging wall -good session
M: 10K
T: Nothing
W: 6M run + 2 hours bouldering at Swindon
T: 40mins Pyramid training
F: 3.5M
S: Wharncliffe coule of leeds, few top-ropes (shock horror)
S: Leeds wall - reps on the main overhanging wall -good session
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: no point really, with shit weather and underlying injuries draining my motivation. Oddly I'm climbing ok, but probably need to sack it off until I get back from boarding trip in mid Jan, to rest and hopefully get properly better.
In the hope of motivating myself then:
MTG: redpoint 7b in El Chorro, first week of March. Onsight E3 without pressurising myself. Train towards that end from mid January.
LTG: redpoint one or more of some specific 7b+s during the summer. Climb some cherished ticklist E3s, just like I did with some classic E2s in summer 2006.
M: work/rest
T: bouldering at MCC, progress on some probs, evening yoga
W: routes at MCC, good session on long routes
T: 1.5 hours snowboarding, caught edge, bad crash and sprained ankle. typical.
F: pain
S: easy bouldering at Burb South. Great to be out but had to take care
S: DIY type excercise
STG: no point really, with shit weather and underlying injuries draining my motivation. Oddly I'm climbing ok, but probably need to sack it off until I get back from boarding trip in mid Jan, to rest and hopefully get properly better.
In the hope of motivating myself then:
MTG: redpoint 7b in El Chorro, first week of March. Onsight E3 without pressurising myself. Train towards that end from mid January.
LTG: redpoint one or more of some specific 7b+s during the summer. Climb some cherished ticklist E3s, just like I did with some classic E2s in summer 2006.
M: work/rest
T: bouldering at MCC, progress on some probs, evening yoga
W: routes at MCC, good session on long routes
T: 1.5 hours snowboarding, caught edge, bad crash and sprained ankle. typical.
F: pain
S: easy bouldering at Burb South. Great to be out but had to take care
S: DIY type excercise
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: Scritto's Republic and Deliverance
MTG: OS an E5
Last week was generally rubbish as it rained alot.
Tuesday; had a good session in the Works and had forgotten how good a venue it is.
Friday; went bouldering at Over Owler Tor for about an hour. Conditions not great but flashed a 6a which was alright.
Need to get out more, do a bit more training when the weather is rubbish. Hope that the weather improves and Scrittos dry so I can get back on it.
ps; I didn't realise that once you replied to the fit club once you were hooked with a reminder and all...
STG: Scritto's Republic and Deliverance
MTG: OS an E5
Last week was generally rubbish as it rained alot.
Tuesday; had a good session in the Works and had forgotten how good a venue it is.
Friday; went bouldering at Over Owler Tor for about an hour. Conditions not great but flashed a 6a which was alright.
Need to get out more, do a bit more training when the weather is rubbish. Hope that the weather improves and Scrittos dry so I can get back on it.
ps; I didn't realise that once you replied to the fit club once you were hooked with a reminder and all...
In reply to Simon Lee:
Sorry about the late reply, it appears my training and me getting over falling 3ft onto a bolt has started to kick in! had a session last night! 7a! but that's next weeks training diary material
Anyways, here goes
Monday - Rest day from the the weekends slaying
Tuesday - 5 Miles on tarmac in the rain - Awesome
Wednesday - Session at the edge, didn't push myself on routes, just did some boulder problems. Easy going.
Thursday - University and a drive to the northern corries got in the way of any real training!
Friday - Did my first winter route, didn't get tired from the walk-in or the days events in general. Could have done a few more routes but my partner got ill and started hurling. Lame.
Saturday - Drove sickboy home from scotland through the night, fun times.
Sunday - Leading and boulder @ leeds wall, did one of their " Very Hard" problems, probably about v6/7.
On the whole, feeling a lot stronger than i ever have before!
Sorry about the late reply, it appears my training and me getting over falling 3ft onto a bolt has started to kick in! had a session last night! 7a! but that's next weeks training diary material
Anyways, here goes
Monday - Rest day from the the weekends slaying
Tuesday - 5 Miles on tarmac in the rain - Awesome
Wednesday - Session at the edge, didn't push myself on routes, just did some boulder problems. Easy going.
Thursday - University and a drive to the northern corries got in the way of any real training!
Friday - Did my first winter route, didn't get tired from the walk-in or the days events in general. Could have done a few more routes but my partner got ill and started hurling. Lame.
Saturday - Drove sickboy home from scotland through the night, fun times.
Sunday - Leading and boulder @ leeds wall, did one of their " Very Hard" problems, probably about v6/7.
On the whole, feeling a lot stronger than i ever have before!
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