UKC

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia:

It's a start. Fingers crossed eh?

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia:

believe me its not in nick, we tried today, to thin and brittle

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia:

went up today, no difference on the photos.

In Ogwen - Tower gully and the area around it is in very good nick grades 1-2.
Idwal Stream is a goer but not fat and fully formed.
No other ice in Ogwen that we have seen over last few days, which is climbable.
Streaks in Idwal but nothing to climb.
Not sure about Sergents

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia: Anyone been up to black ladders? Cheers, Ed

In reply to boothy:
Walked around the top of them on Sunday, the turf was frozen solid at all levels, but no ice or snow on them at all that I could see. There was hard neve in Ffynon Llyfant under the top of Llewelyn, but only on easy slopes within 100m or so of the top.

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia:

forget ladders

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia:

New conditions reports just in: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

Several routes have been climbed, including Central Icefall Direct, Cascade and Left Hand Branch on Clogwynn Ddu.

Thanks for the excellent photographs.

Jack

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia:

Apparently the 2 guys who did these routes have also done a few other grade 3 and 4,s. Looks like these locals have the beta, have done thier homework and have snatched routes whilst no one else has done anything. Nice one lads. Hope your plans for Friday prove to be as successful. I for one are envious.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor: 'Scuse the ignorance... but...What exactly is a 'clean top rope ascent'?

In reply to mmd: I can't really see how top roping an ice route is a good achievement.

Wait for the route to form and then lead it. Top roping rock isn't great but top roping ice before the route has formed would surely damage it and prevent others from climbing it a bit later when it has formed.

In reply to Dee:

Agree. A top rope ascent of anything in winter is not worth reporting.

Davie

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia: If you think about it. If you knew anything, then you would realise that these routes take some time before they fully form. They will be gone by this Saturday eve, Sunday morning so its not going to hiderence any body who wishes to lead them, because no one will. The temp yesterday afternnon was plus 12. Also an ascent is an ascent, climbers practice boulder moves, top rope rock routes, top rope in the wall, aid routes in the alps and worlwide so whats the problem.

In addition to this the are superb ice routes, so whilst you all sit around waiting for stuff to fully form these guys have had some sport without doing any harm. Actually seems like have have managed to climb 400ft of near vertical ice which most folk would spend a whole weekend to do and drive to Scotland in order to find them.

Regards to Jack reporting these as clean top rope. What he is doing is informing climbers that these routes have reached a certain thickness, it helps give climbers an understanding of the conditions in the Pass and stops them assuming routes are in good condition, and thusgetting excited and travelling miles to Wales.

Oh it also shows that locals get out and do not sit around all day.

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia:

a clean top rope ascent , is one when you top rope it and you do not fall off at all. Jack has mentioned this as to give an indication of the ice, and its thickness, ie its to thin to lead but theres enough to get up. Well i suppose you could lead it, but considering 13 teams have been up to have a look to my knowledge and none of them have led it shows that its not ready.

hope this helps.

No one is saying its an amazing ascent. You have to remember that this route was last in good nick in 1996 and has few ascents since them Mind you it seems you know nothing otherwise some of you would have not written what you have.

In reply to mmd:

What an odd thing to say. Climbers all over the UK actually get out climbing.

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia:

Agree with the sentiments about the style.

Quite frankly, if the ice is there and is likely to melt in a few days then who cares if you top rope it or lead it. There's no point moaning about "waiting for it to fully form" if it's all going to be melted in a couple of days.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Top roping's the way forward, next those brave folk will claim the headpoint !

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia:

I'll probably have a bimble up Siobod later.Post some shots late afternoon.

Beautiful cold clear day again.

In reply to mmd:

If the ice was thick enough to be top roped cleanly, then it was thick enough to be lead by someone with balls.

In reply to withey:

so what you are saying is it's not newsworthy an UKC are scraping the bottom of the barrel ?

In reply to Norrie Muir:

Good point- That excludes you then!

In reply to Laubie:

(_X_)

In reply to mmd:

>considering 13 teams have been up to have a look

I was sure it was 11 teams (doh). I'll have to see about getting my turnstile re- calibrated.

Davie

In reply to Joe Brown - Snowdonia: Thanks for the info Joe.

Please keep letting us know if anything is worth doing.