UKC

UKC Fit Club is a substitute for the UKC training diary which was promised in 2006 and shamefully has yet to appear. I have linked a number of physical training articles here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 (this may be reproduced as an FAQ on the Articles page at some stage).

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday evening for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

56 diary entries last week.

Necromancer has returned from Majorca having redpointed his firstF7b+ and onsighted his first F6c+. Abarro81 also got his first Ft7b+,Blind Date, followed this week with Blind Fig Ft7c.

Repeat contributors last week:

IainRUK
skivingbluecat
PaulB
Andy Farnell
tobyfk
Serpico
Jenn
mbh
WEBBO
TimS
Tyler
TRNovice
Wibble Wibble
CJD
craigd
biscuit
davidwright
andy reeve
jfw
tbertenshaw
Duncan Disorderly
jon barton
fimm
Richard Hession
iain roberto
Burns
AJM
abarro81
the colonel
kipper (the original one)
Si d H
trevf
SARS
ebygomm
loulou
Mark Stevenson
seankenny
Karl Woofinden
Goonie
Tom Briggs
richardkirby
galpinos
mattyork2
Paul748
Derbyshire Ben
rginns
catt
mkean
Reese
stuckonarock
Jack Geldard
Mr Justice Cocklecarrot
Jake Shaw
MattG

3 New starters/returners

Tony Fryer
necromancer85
Burnsie

3 Absentees last week:

Oli
Mark Westerman
JimR

Goals: Austrian Oak , Rumble in Jungle and Hasse route in 2008 and sub 1.35 in Taunton Half Marathon in May and Only Locals at Arco in June.

M. Foundry– bouldering
T. Foundry– bouldering
W
T. Lock off HIT board session
F. (belaying)
S Stoney -bouldering
S. Stanage - bouldering

Let myself down with the running this week.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Nice to meet you at last yesterday Simon (with Jim, I'm Andy).

Simple week for me, too much Christmas got in the way. Goals the same as ever.

Mon-Fri - nothing
Sat - got spanked and mangled my foot (damned foot jamming) at stoney, then bailed to the Foundry - had a good session onsighting/flashing/nearly flashing routes at reasonable grades for each style
Sun - nothing. Drove to my parents house. Was going to Portland but overslept, and the freezing mist still lingering in Salisbury at gone midday makes me think I may have been wise.....

AJM

In reply to Simon Lee:
Not toooo bad a week from me...

Monday: Bouldering/freezing at Burbage.
Tuesday: Same sh!t, different location; Roaches. MCC routing.
Wednesday: Cycled to work and back (32 miles).
Thursday: MCC routing. Can feel stamina returning. Dizzy heights of 6a+ here i come!
Friday: Cycled 32 miles. Drank my body weight in wine.
Saturday: Slept. Zzzzzzzz...
Sunday: Cycled 32 miles by accident (got carried away on a quick leisurely bike ride). Ah well Apparently burned off 1152 calories. Thats a lorra lorra cake.

In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: Complete 45 move 8b/+ traverse at the Beacon.
MTG: 1 Alpine North Face this winter season.
LTG: Big wall free climbing in May, Gogarth new route project in the summer.

M - Indoor bouldering
T - Indoor bouldering
W - Indoor bouldering (that makes 5 days on <whew>)
T - Rest
F - Weights 1.5 hours
S - Indoor route climbing and 1 attempt on traverse
S - Rest

This coming week - Christmas puddings and Ice climbing in France.
After New year: 2 x fell running sessions per week and more leg weights.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Great route, very polished. I'll be publishing an UKC article on Arco in a few weeks time. It has some info and a photo topo for Zanzara which is also fantastic.

Good luck!

In reply to Simon Lee:

Monday - Rest
Tuesday - 5k Run - quite a lot of hills this time, fun times. Wasn't tired at all!
Wednesday - Few routes at the edge, didn't feel up for it so bailed on it.
Thursday - Rest
Friday - Bouldered and did routes. Okay session
Sat- Epic session at the works, felt mullered. DId 6C+
Sunday - Did the blue circuit and some purples and blacks, feel rinsed now!

Good times, going to train on the finger board for more finger strength!

In reply to Simon Lee:
M:Bouldering Widdop, pm: deadhangs + system board
T:
W:Bouldering Earl, pm: deadhangs + system board
T:
F:Bouldering Gorple, pm: deadhangs, SB, + sshoulders
S:Core
S:Bouldering Almscliffe, pm: deadhangs + System board.

Starting to get a bit of a strength kick from the additional training, still 3Kgs heavy, need to do more core work.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Goals: Again, way too long to repeat, see http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=257930&v=1#3800530

Tried to get out in the Peak, but defeated by the weather - at least I semi-resumed cycling to work.

M - Rest
T - Three hours bouldering at The Castle
W - 10km bike ride / 1.5 hours yoga
Th - 10km bike ride / three hours bouldering at The Castle
F - Rest / pack for The Peak
Sa - 345 mile round trip to various parts of the Peak to see the different affects of rain and mist on varying rock types
Su - 4 hours bouldering at The Castle

No progress against goals, nevertheless things are beginning to come back after travel- and illness-induced lay-off. Still get tired really quickly and struggling with all but the least powerful of lock-offs. However marginal progress, just a shame not to get anything done outdoors - oh well.

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG: Lead scottish III/IV and IV
MTG: Boulder font 7a again
LTG's Alpine D+ on a mixed route, TD on a rock route

M-F: Not a lot, I was tired!
S: See above
S: 100 sit ups, back stretches, mobilising spine

Less than productive! Hope to get to scotland over the next 2 weeks, Im off every day so I better had! This might assist with the STG's

In reply to Simon Lee:

MTG: Font 7b
STG: Regain strength after lay-off

M - Shoulder exercises (Internal / External Rotations, Rows and Scaptions with medium resistance band) and stretching.
T - 3 hours bouldering at the Castle up to UK 6a.
W - 1.5 hours yoga.
H - 3 hours bouldering at the Castle up to UK 6a. Good session. It's starting to come back, but get tired very easily.
F - Shoulder exercises, as above.
Sa - Drive to Peak, look at wet rock, drive home, about 8 hours
Su - 4 hrs bouldering at the Castle up to UK 5c (flashed) and UK 6a (worked), made progress on new project UK 6b (can do all but one move, grr). Good session, starting to get a bit of strength back (can do 1-4 on campus board again), however it seems to last for about 15 minutes! Got really tired towards the end.

Shoulder seems to be settling down through exercises, yoga and not sleeping on it! Strength is showing signs of returning, but I get worn out very easily. No running, too cold, need to get back into doing that.

I miss rock! Hopefully will get out next week.

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG: 1) boulder V3 before Xmas - Or a particular 5c problem at Keswick wall which has beeen eluding me for ages.

LTG: RP F7a and onsight E3 6a

Easy week to write up

Sunday - climb at Trowbarrow. Some bouldering and easy routes to warm up and made a valiant attempt at Cracked Actor - it was BLOODY freezing.

Rest of week was a planned rest week. I've done nothing at all.

Revising goals now for new year. Failed my STG but this was due to time/weather. I feel sure i'd have done them if the weather had held. Really chuffed with even having a go at an E2. I'd had problems with bottle all year and had only done 1 E1. The idea of training was to boost my confidence in my ability and it's worked :0)

STG: To be done by end of Jan
RP fr6c inside.
On-sight v2 outside.
Finish V2 6a project at Honister.
Finish V3 project at St Bees.


MTG: Redpoint 7a and on-sight 6c on Easter bolt clipping trip to El Chorro.

LTG: Lead E3 6a

In reply to Simon Lee:

Sunday: yoga
Monday: rest
Tuesday: weights
Wednesday: 11 mile yomp
Thursday: short walk
Friday: rest
Saturday: christmas food shopping in sainsburys

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG: Get stronger for Font in 2 wks; get knee better.
LTG: Regularly lead E6 on all rock types; Urgent Action.

M: Hangboard session, assisted 1arm hangs and bar work.
T:
W: Campussed at works, felt good until I was an inch from rung 7, then faltered! Few sests 13-5-3-5- to work deep locking.
T: Rest
F: Rest as felt tired still.
S: Short core work on floor.
S: Campussing at works, did 147 on R but not L on smallish rungs. Few sets of 13-5-3-5-. Felt good.

Summary
Knee still holding me back but way better than a week ago. Hopefully better by Font! Think I'm getting stronger still. One core session better than nothing!

Plan
More core work, otherwise keep up same as this wk.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor:

Double-checked - got confused - I meant Abissi - failed on it this year - 12metre routes at Malham werent great preparation for a 35metre 7c/+ with the crux at the top. Some stamina training in order to be in shape for when I go out for a week at whitsuntide. If anyone is out there at the same time I dont have a partner.

In reply to Simon Lee: Re-joining after some time away if that's ok!? Retired from fit club before as I achieved my 2 main goals and wasn't actually training at all - just climbing a lot. Got new goals though now and one still left from before so it's time to do some training again. Goals:

1) Bouldering: some 7b+ and 7c problems - plenty in mind on Yorkshire and Peak Grit.
2) Bench Press: 8reps of bodyweight + 20% (ie. 84kgs) , 1 rep max of bodyweight + 50% (ie. 105kgs).

see you next week.

Goals to be redefined next week!

M Rest
T Broughton
W Broughton
T MCC Routes
F REST
S REST
S Climbing With Sister (effectively rest or SACC)

* Made some good progress this last month at broughton got really close to some quite high goals. Some time left till end of year but effectively think i have reached my limit mostly in terms of accomplishing goals.
* Will reassess next years goals next week as i reformulate new plans but i am currently quite happy with strength progress. Came close enought to accomplishing most broughton goals to say they were done or there and thereabouts.


Cheers
Tim

In reply to Simon Lee:
M - Martial arts
T - Climbing
W - Nowt
T - Martial arts
F - Birthday
S - Climbing
S - Walking

In reply to Simon Lee:

MTG: complete F7c'ish project bolted during the summer
LTG: F8a or 5.13 redpoint

M. stretching
T. <busy getting organised for Oman road trip>
W. long drive ... beautiful bouldering on unclimbed river-polished limestone boulders to V-not-much
T. various onsighting to F6b, decent onsight attempt on F7a+, did it with one rest
F. bouldering and onsighted a new trad route (overhanging crack, E2'ish) .. drive ... couple of F6b's later
S. various routes to F6c onsight
S. quick'ish F7a redpoint and F6c ...

In reply to Simon Lee:

T - fingerboard session, good.
Th - fingerboard session, again good.
Sat - Good wall session. Very close to onsighting 11b/c
Mon - Fun outdoor session. Nothing hard though, and failed to climb an 11c short slab route (felt very hard).

Felt like I had made very good progress on Sat from 9 months of little climbing, but failed to follow that through with progress outside.

In reply to Simon Lee:

M. 50 min fast MTB
T. Routes - MCC
W.
T. Kinder/Bleaklow /Weights Session
F.Booze in Manchester
S. Routes, Stockport. (14@50p a route)
S.London for Xmas

Despite a lazy-ish week Saturdays session felt good - 4 high 6's and 10 7's led. Great cloud inversion on Kinder and an iced up downfall.

Psyched for France(Alpes Maritime) on Thursday.

Tyler has a note of abscence Sir (He's in Spain).

In reply to Simon Lee:
M: Bouldering Burb N and W, not a bad sesh, cold but rock a bit damp.
T: Bouldering Crookrise, close to a 7B, quite a good sesh
W: Rest
T: Bouldering Cratcliffe and RHS, failed on some classics, managed some others, start of a cold.
F: Rest, cold, beers.
S: Malham 8 times toprope on Concenting, everything else damp. Leeds wall, managed a 'v.hard'. quite happy, still ill.
S: Peak - in search of dry rock, few goes on Suavito with no warm up, better than before, was a bit damp. Works - comp wall climbing, quite tired, still ill.

In reply to TimS:

M: 9 miles Chatsworth Estate and Moors
T: 6 miles hill sprints on Blackamoor
W: 9 miles Tigger Tor Recce on Houndkirk Moor
T: 8 miles up Drum
F: 9 mile up Moel Eilio
S: Football game won 3-1
S: 5.5 mile race, came 4th.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Short term goal (month): Font 7C and some power endurance

Long term (1 year): Some more F7C's and a 7C+

Mon: Weights
Tues: Rest
Weds: Boulder in the pass (freezing!)
Thurs: Light session
Fri: Rest
Sat: Rest, feel ill
Sun: Burbage North, bad skin, hate grit, felt shit!

Might rest for a week or just do some fingerboarding and weights till I get my skin back

In reply to Simon Lee: Goals - short term (dec/jan)devise a new training plan, re-establish leading and lead 6a, boulder v3 indoors, medium term (March 08) lead 6a+ indoors, boulder v4 indoors, boulder 6a outdoors by completing my project - 'verdigris 6a' at Brownstones and the pond traverse 5c Brownstones, long term (June 08) lead 6b indoors, HVS outdoors, top rope E3 cleanly

M - Bouldering at Broughton up to 5b
T - Bouldering at Broughton - working on downclimbing/stamina
W - Bouldering at Broughton - short session, up to 5b+
T - Climbing at Preston - routes to 6a+, falling practice, lead half a 6a
F - Pull ups
S - rest
S - Pull ups

Fairly good week -especially constructive was the falling on lead practice at Preston on Thursday - finally getting to grips with my head problem which has been lurking for about 4 years since a fall in Spain!

In reply to Simon Lee:

Short term goal - damage limitation over chrimbo

Main Goals (in order of implementation):
Work on the indoor Goal (F7a Redpoint)
Redpoint D7 Drytool route I worked last autumn.
Be hill fit for any spur of the moment big hill days.
Be in good shape for outdoor winter goal (VII)


M Routes Ratho – too bloody cold though.
T Nothing
W Nothing
T Bouldering Ratho
F Nothing
S Drytooling Newtyle – nearly managed my project D7 on the lead. The improvement has nothing to do with training and all to do with borrowing my mates ergo tools. Could benefit from better core as it was my feet that poped. Also more brute arm / lock strength and I recon I could have it in the bag.
S 3.2km run – motivated by yesterdays near victory, just a wee one to remind me how to put one foot in front of the other.

In reply to Simon Lee:
M-
T- afternoon bouldering at burbage, worked blind fig
W- my best day ever of bouldering: managed blind fig (first 7C) then WSS straight after! 2 big goals in one day.. wicked
T- core (floor work only)
F-
S- bouldering and tried Paz's project on TR at avon
S-

not bad on the stretching and antagonists, could do better though. elbows still dodgy - limiting training now I'm at home for x-mas and fingerboard-less as indoor bouldering involves the arms a bit too much. Good week even though it only involved 3 sessions.

Pre-easter hols: 3 more E6s onsight/flash, headpoint EOTA, WSS (DONE), 7C (DONE), learn to climb cracks (ie do some E4+ cracks)
LTGs (next summer): E7 onsight, F7c onsight, F8a+

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG - To be re re-evaluated for Jan/Feb I think.
MTG (to Easter) - Font 7b/+ (Deliverance hopefully) by end of grit season. E1 if not done already.
M-LTG (to end 2008) Fr 7b/+, E2

M - Cycle 14km. Castle - easy route session. First inddor routes session since last winter.
T - Cycle 14km. Rest
W - Cycle 14km. Castle - routes, good session, got on a 7a that should go in a couple more sessions.
T - Rest.
F - Rest.
S - Rest.
S - Rest.

Glad to be back on the routes after getting bored with the bouldering and hitting a plateau.

In reply to Simon Lee:

The only thing I managed all week was one hilly 7.6m run, on Sunday!

In reply to Simon Lee:

Terrible week of slackness - bit of fingerboarding and a crap trip to mile end combined with far too much drink and not enough sleep. Next few days need to be core and general fitness as going skiing.

In reply to necromancer85:
M - Climb - Blue Circuit (3-5), no soreness on either finger
T - Rings - added assisted iron cross (30% assistance)
W - Rest
T - Climb - Warm up, do progressively harder probs, fingers both sore, pain subsided quickly after stopping
F - Rest - no residual swelling
S - Rest
S - Rest

I'm now assuming that my finger niggles are due to scar tissue and need some deep friction massage etc.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Seriously poor week.

3 half-arsed sessions on the bag.

I can feel my weight increasing.

:-o

Long term goal: Redpoint 8B, Onsight 7C+, Headpoint E7, Boulder 8A

Short term goal: Get fit and get back to Redpointing 8A, climb grit E6

M. 2 1/2 hours at the edge, onsighted 15 routes up to 7a+. Felt okay. 1st time indoor leading for over a year.
T.
W. 2 1/2 hours at the works. Okay session just did loads of easier problems (60) up to 7a+
Th.
F. 1 1/2 hours at works. Shorter session. very cold. warmed up on easy greens, then did all new problems put up this week, including flashing new traverse. Then 1/2 hour on training board. Finished off with 1/2 hour on comp wall.
S.
S. Burbage North. Warmed up at remergence and tried Blind Date. Moved on to boulders above Sphinx, then Irrepressible Urge (Scary o/s). Then almost flashed the 7B+ version of Zaff Skoczylas, fell off at last hold. Did it on 3rd try


Going to rethink my goals.

Really into bouldering at the minute so going to focus on that for a while.

New goals:

STG: Try and consolidate on 7c, low start to Zaff Skoczylas, Shit at Higgar, West Side Story, The Storm

MTG: Work on my trad grades. Work towards E6 ground up (Pulsar direct, Linkline at Higgar, and Mothers pride at Millstone) and Balance it is at Burbage E7 headpoint

LTG: Sport 8B/+ (42 at The Cornice) (Revelations) (Mecca), Boulder: Bens roof, powerband, stamina band


Must also do more running

In reply to Simon Lee:

M: 10K Treadmill
T: 30 min interval training 1min off/on
W: Xmud fun run around local building site/canals 1h30m
T: Nowt
F: 15mile walk on Cheviots
S: Nowt
S: 6 miles

Mark

In reply to Simon Lee:

Goals were 1-4-7 on smallish rungs on campus board and rumble in the jungle

Monday: Cycled to Work (24miles round trip)
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Bouldering and Campus session (good sesison felt stronger)
Thursday: Dips (35/35/35 reps 4 mins rest between sets), and weights at home.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Too hung over to move (forced rest)
Sunday: Bouldering (a lot of mileage - felt good again)

Note to self - resting is a good idea and does not make you weak!

Goals for next week: 40, 35, 30 dips, 1-4-7 x2 each hand.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Mon - Nothing
Tues - 1 hr hill session
Wed - Nothing
Thurs - 1 1/2 hour run including tempo session
Fri - Nothing
Sat - 4 hours on ilkley moor running the perm O course.

Not a huge amount last couple of weeks but I have just completed coursework and not back to work until the 8th so hopefully get a few miles in Christmas week.

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG (end Jan 08):
1. Climb F7b
2. Hang smallest edge on Moon fingerboard
3. Get on 45-degree board (get 3 problems I am working on)

MTG (June 08)
1. Back working on F7c (2 routes by end of summer)
2. Do finger board session + 10kg
3. 6c boulder problems (2 slab, 2 steep (45 degree, 2 other)

LTG (2 years+)
1. F8a
2. West side story @ Burbage or font 7c
3. Front lever
4. Hang three finger open 1 armed from medium edge
5. Campus 1-5-9

Last week:

Continue with daily press ups of 45 in three different positions and one set of pull ups each day this week 16.

M: Did finger board session went really well held the smallest crimps on the moon board for 5 secs (happy with this) also got a really good warm up session where I hold all the holds on the metollious woody board for 20 secs and try to keep my body as angled as possible working towards a front lever (absolutely kills the core) reckon I am some where between

T: Rest press ups and pull-ups

W: Did routes at the Castle went well flashed routes up to F6c and fell off the second last move on a long 7a, tried a 7b and pieced together all the moves will try to link it before the end of January (quite happy with the session).

Th: Rest press ups and pull-ups

F: Rest press ups and pull-ups Xmas party at Mile end

Sa: Did nothing

Su: Travelled to Scotland for Xmas

Next week: I am going to do nothing Xmas break.

In reply to Simon Lee: Not much last week due to a heavy dose of manflu. Did get to Warrington on Xmas eve and hauled myself up a few things on top-rope. Taking it easy while this virus is still kicking round the system.

Targets for next year - the same as last year.

Andy F

In reply to Simon Lee:

Recovering from a US trip and tying up lots of loose ends at work followed by a pre-Christmas cold meant it was a miracle I did anything at all.

S - Can't remember if I went for a run.
M - Blue circuit at The Works, did 39 out of 40 & felt pretty good.
T - Work
W - Lunchtime bike ride 15 miles.
T - Board session - getting there !
F - Christmas party/late night
S - Chores etc.

This week will be one of two halves...

In reply to Simon Lee:

STG: Maintain fitness and build up climbing strength. January 10 mile fell race.
MTG: Improve flexibility
(V!)LTG: Lead E1

Last week all seems like a bit of a hazy memory now…

M: Away
T: Nowt
W: Nowt
T: A relaxed but productive session at the Works. Concentrated on footwork on steeper problems and came away with much needed renewed confidence.
F: Nowt
S: Had to work
S: Away

Did very little last week but been so busy with work and the required rounds of festive boozing/mince pie eating that I make no apologies. I really needed a week of relaxing and taking it easy and will be back on the training regime with a vengeance this week (hopefully).

In reply to Simon Lee: In reply to Simon Lee: In reply to Simon Lee:
Last weeks STG: By end of week.
- Complete one minute set of 6 second hangs on largest moon hold, with intermediatry 2 second slight rests.
- Do three lots, on seperate days of 240 press ups, 8 lots of 30, each time.
- Book Mallorca Trip for January!)

Changed focus on hangs to longer more stamina based hangs of a minute with better feet rests, moving between holds, and managed to get a good pump on and stay on for two and a half minutes. Only one lot of 240 press ups but booked Mallorca!

MTG: Before end of January.
- Redpoint fr7b in mallorca this January.
- Complete the 20 minute fingerboard workout 'advanced' at 8a.nu.
- Move up North to a place where I can get strong and get out more!

LTG: Before end of 2008.
- Redpoint 7b+ in Val di Mello this April.
- Redpoint fr8a.

Monday: Short run and stamina session on fingerboard.
Tuesday: Short run and stamina session on fingerboard.
Wedenesday: Venice
Thurdsay: Venice
Friday: Venice and press up set and plank exercises.
Saturday: Venice
Sunday: Long run and 8a nu 20 minute advance session on fingerboard. Much more success than last time. Surprised myself with the hangs and negatives.

All in all not bad considering time abroad but need to really get some proper outdoor climbing done next week.

In reply to Matt Maynard: * This weeks short term goals.
- Stay on fingerboard for three minutes.
- Get 2 lots of 240 press up set in.
- Get an outdoor route in!

In reply to Simon Lee:
m.1 hour turbo bike.drinks at friends
t.bouldering rockcity.
w.1 hour turbo bike before work.bouldering rockcity evening.
th.wifes works christmas party.
fri.ill
sat.on call at work.managed to sneak a bouldering session in at rockcity
sun. bouldering oaklands.christmas shopping with the missus.
managed to do a reasonable amount despite social commitments.
webbo

Thu: Calshot. Climbed poorly - blamed on the last two days work (being a student I'm not use to work!)

Sat: Calshot. Top roped lots of easy long problems to get my fitness up.

Sun: Winspit. Climbed much better than previous visit. Much of the easier problems were a lot easier and got up two new 6a+ relatively well.

Still improving and thinking of setting higher goals soon.