In reply to andy kirkpatrick:
Good article Andy.
Hear are my musing, I'm stuck in the office so plenty of rambling time, not aimed at anyone in particular, just my observations.
Be slick as they say in America - or as we say in Scotland, Don't fanny around.
Slick getting out of the car - Have split the rack the night before so all you have to do is put your boots / gaiters on and go.
Slick on the walk in - I.e rucky packed in right order - rack and rope at the bottom, hat & gloves / nibbles & drink at the top. Know where you are going, case out walk ins on crap nick days.
Be slick gearing up - Eat your sarnies WHILE gearing up. don't spend 20min taking in the view and then gear up. decide who is doing the fist pitch on the walk in give this person both halfs of the rack as soon as you get to the gearing up spot. The other person should be flaking out the ropes not just standing about waiting for something to happen.
Take in the view FROM THE BELAY ledge, you have plenty of time here.
Be slick at gear swap overs. Only take the gear if you are confident you are going to nail the pitch or give it your best shot. Fannying around bottling something is a good way to waste an hours or so. I.e. make the decision before you swap & set off.
Be slick packing up at the top / rucky drop point. - open rucksack, take your food / water out, bung everything in, forget the wee rubber things for your crampons. Sort the gear at the car or at home.
I recon a slick team can gain 2 or 3 hours by being organised. 2 or 3 hours in winter is a lot of time and can make the difference between topping out in the dark or not and as Erik says, topping out in the dark is when the shit usually hits the fan.