UKC

Ten year-old Josie Ball and her five-year-old brother Archie have established 14 new sport routes at a new area, Costa del Sidings in the Dinorwig Quarries, Llanberis, North Wales.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=02&year=2008#n42611

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

What a star she is. And whoever nicked the route off her, shame on yers.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

I'm not keen on the "Costa Del ..." names as it draws parallels with Spanish bolt clipping which to me doesn't tie in with the slate vibe (notice I didn't say 'ethic'!), but well done to Josie (and Archie for his) on new routing at a grade I can only just onsight! And if the line that got stolen was bolted by her Dad (which it sounds like it was), it's a little harsh that someone nipped in first (if the other party bolted it themselves, then fair play I guess). Does Josie trad climb too or is it too early for that responsibility?

I thought this was another one of those parody stories until I clicked it and read the full thing!

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

I'd just like to say congratulations to Josie and Archie (and dad, Fraser). Must have been a lot of fun establishing all those routes; finding the lines, equipping them, the big event of leading them, then naming them.

There's even more fun to come. Just imagine all the climbers who are now going to enjoy all your work!

I hope you do many more.

Mick

Hi Mick thanks for your comments!I enjoyed climbing them and hope others will.
From Josie.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Hmmm. Josie looks a lovely kid, reminds me of my own daughters at her age, and her achievements are great. I just hope, and he probably has, that her dad has got the sense not to push her too far too soon, it sounds as though it could be a dangerous game. I'm sure I am totally wrong (I hope I am).

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: The slate quarries are a really special place with a lot of history and I think it's wrong to turn it into a mainstream sport climbing area. All this 're-bolting' is going a bit far.

Luke

In reply to grit-addict:

Hmm... I just wrote:

"You're presuming that they *are* trying to turn it into a mainstream sport area, no? Plus it says Josie's routes are new routes, not rebolted ones. And this has been done to death already, so maybe you're just stirring If you're not, your concerns may be valid, and we all have some, but maybe this is not the place for it? This is about a 10 year old FA-ing a 6a+."

Then looked up The Sidings in my book. The article says it's a new slate sector, but it's in my slate book. Not only that, but the slate route currently highest on my wishlist, "Above The Line" is on there, so I thought "please tell me that's not been bolted!"

So I looked up in the wiki. Above The Line (the only original listed route, others are only vaguely mentioned) is still down as HVS 4c, and all the bolted routes look to be new.

I almost deleted this whole post as it might kick of a discussion rather than prevent it, but I'll leave it up instead and run away!

In reply to grit-addict: They are new routes, not retroed. What's wrong with a bit of sport climbing being established on neglected bits of an old quarry anyway? You can still climb on Rainbow Slab if you want to poo your pants! If the locals want to have a mixture of accessible year round climbing options, both trad and sport, then fair play to them.

In reply to grit-addict: I have climbed in the slate quarries since the mid 1980's and have climbed many classic bold and not so bold (sports) routes. The quarries are indeed a VERY special place, the history that you feel is not just about the routes climbed but the industrial heratige of the once, working quarry. There has always been sports routes along side traditional ones, the Rainbow slab and Colossus wall to name one area.What has happened at Dalis hole and the sidings has not affected this history or established routes, they are on areas of rock which after careful consideration with other local climbers lend themselves to this style of route and at a grade which allows mid-grade climbers to enjoy this unique setting. The slate quarries are vast with more than enough rock/areas to allow for different styles of routes, all offering a different experience, giving climbers of all grades the choice. In the past that choice has been there for some eg. Gordie war cry F7a+ or Scare city E6 6a at bus stop, now this choice is open to more climbers. I was at the sidings at half term and lots of climbers were enjoying the routes from a well known couple in there 70's to a younge girl of 9/10. Joe Brown has by accounts enjoyed the routes at Dalis hole. This is about the sensetive development which will never turn this vast climbing location (as a whole) into a "mainstream" sport climbing area, something that I and am sure the other mid-grade sport new routers would not want to see.

In reply to cider nut: You will find that "Above the Line" will in some way be affected by the bolts. The original line is not clear the guide book description and the line on the photo are confusing. After talking to Chris Parkin who soloed the route for the first ascent, the actual line is still not clear. He was more than happy for his line to be included into the new sports routes on the slab.It appears that the "Above the line" may have started up the Mallard to move right to finish up Polar Express, but then again as Chris is not sure who knows!

In reply to daddy day care:

I agree with everything you said.

i did above the line the other day and I enjoyed it. It is a solo anyway so it doesn't matter if there are bolts near it, right?

In reply to Al Evans: Thanks for your comments. Josie Climbs twice a week at the wall or outside. She is helped and encouraged to think about her development physically by myself and other experienced climbers she boulders with. The hardest thing is trying to rein in her enthusiasm for all things steep and fingery. She is well aware of the potential damage to her finger joints and through her background as a competative gymnast she understands the need to warm up and not to overdo things, even if she needs to be reminded at times! She has done no trad routes this is something that if she wants can come latter. At the moment she is having fun in a controlled and as "safe as possible" way, which is great to see.

In reply to cider nut:

hmm obscure slate HVS 4c...i thought wishlists were meant to comprise quality routes?

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Why?

In reply to daddy day care:

It is sentences like this that reassure me completely that the redevelopment of the quarries is in good hands.

In reply to daddy day care:

Cheers for the info, I'll see how much I can work out next time I'm there! Do you have a topo for your new routes? (Sorry if the answer to that is obvious and I've missed it)

In reply to Morgan Woods:


My wishlist is comprised of routes that have been recommended to me or I'll come across a photo of/mention of/description of, that arouses my curiousity. Whether they're quality I won't know until I've climbed them, just because someone else has voiced their opinion on something does mean that *I* will find it quality.