UKC

I'm just trying to get my trad head back for a good year. For extra motivation, I'm setting myself a slab a hit list. The intention is to work towards ticking Sundowner (prob with siderunner) sometime later in the year. I've been climbing for a while, but have mainly been pottering sub-VS, so this is also an attempt to push myself a bit harder.

The list I've got so far is:
Wall End Slab (ticked yesterday
Hargreaves Original Route
Black Slab Variations (Burbage N)
High Neb Buttress
Sunset Slab
Three Pebble Slab
Fairy Steps
Tango Buttress
Trafalgar Wall
Left/Right Edge@Rivelin
VS-E1's@End Slab (Stanage)
C.M.C. Slab

I've noted, from previous topics, that there are some nice slabs at the Roaches and Rylestone. Does anyone else have any further suggestions for climbs I should have on this list? I'm based in Sheffield, so Eastern Grit is the easiest for me to get to - however, I don't mind travelling and it would be good to have some inspiration to check out other crags. Also, I don't mind if the route is not a "pure" slab. I'm interested in any routes that are more about footwork and composure rather than strength.

Thanks,

J

In reply to orge: If you come up to go to Rhylstone then go to Eastby in the morning (Rhylstone catches afternoon sun) and do Whaup Edge, quite soft at VS 4b, it's very much about composure and not strength. Plus Eastby's a lovely little crag in its own right.

In reply to orge: I suspect our definition of 'easy slabs' is rather different but what about Sunstroke Slab at Heptonstall Quarry.

In reply to orge: You've missed the classic, Grotto Slab. And the Question Mark route up Flying Buttress Slab section, both Stanage,
Also Pedestal route (great view of the roof) and Technical Slab and Central Route, all beneath The Sloth.

In reply to Al Evans: Ooops, missed out Great Slab on Millstone.

In reply to Lemony: Isn't there a classic hard severe slab at Crookrise, I forget its name but RF fell the length of it when we were soloing it once, he was nearly killed by being spiked on a burnt out pine tree at the foot of the slab, bacisally it was too easy for him and he forgot he was climbing, good route though

In reply to orge:
possibly sunset crack?
The crack is there for gear, but your feet stay on the slab, and you can use the crack as much or as little as you want

Condor Slab @ Roaches upper. VS 4b. Feels a little necky, but I suppose so do many of those you've already ticked.

In reply to Al Evans:
Grotto Slab? Joking I presume? A torrential and gale force day at Stanage meant that this was all I climbed. A mod at best and not really anything special. You do mean the broken, fallen slab dont you?

In reply to Owen W-G:

Just spotted, your list is a wishlist not a done list.

Have a go at Hargreeves @ Stanage first - better, better pro and easier (?) than High Neb.

There's a couple of HVS 5c's - Greengrocers Wall and Pedlars Slab which are involve hard moves at 2m height then easy, but effectively solos. Not suggesting you jump straight on them, but if you are doing well on your list and having a good day at Stanage you could have a go.

In reply to orge:

The Brain at Curbar is a lovely VS slab traverse with a well-protected but exposed finish up an arete.

Great Slab at Millstone isn't very slab-like (in that it has holds and gear and stuff) but definitely requires some footwork and technique.

There are some lovely slabs at Crookrise as well so it's worth a visit there.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Pedlar's slab is good.

I wouldn't describe Greengrocer's Wall as a slab, nor is it effectively a solo. It is easily protectable with cams.

lsn

Thanks all for the recommendations!

Definitely seems like a trip to the Roaches would be a good idea - I think I've seconded both those routes, but have never been back to lead them. Eastby and Crookrise also look like places I should visit sometime.

Al, not sure what route you mean by "Question Mark" at Flying Buttress?

I think I'm gonna tick a few more of the climbs at Stanage and then plan some trips to the Western and Yorkshire crags.

Cheers,

J

In reply to orge:

He means the ordinary Diff (or whatever it is) up Flying Buttress.

jcm

In reply to orge:

A few more:
Curbar:

Campion Wall: VS4c
Green Acres: E1 5b
Short Slab: HVS 5a.

Baslow:

Rough Wall Climb VS 4c
Laicifitra 2 S
Laicifitra 1 VS 4c
Jolly Green Dwarf VS 5a
Resurgence HVS 5b
Rennaisance HVS 5b

Burbage North:

Overhanging Buttress Direct S

Burbage South:

Dunkley's Eliminate VS4c

Lawrencefield:

Gingerbread HVS 4c
Meringue HVS 5a
Vanilla Slice E2 5c - Easy for grade

In reply to orge:

Excuse the hijack, but how do you define a slab? When I hear "slab" mentioned, I think of Idwal slabs or even Chalk Storm on the Lower Tier at the Roaches as being a slab route because of it's angle.

Pedestal Route at the Roaches is not one that I would class as a slab. Maybe I have the definition slightly wrong, could someone put me right please?

In reply to staceyjg:

I'd tend to agree that a slab is usually considered to mean a route whose crux is not a roof. I suppose it has a slabby bit lower down.

jcm

In reply to orge:

Wrinkled Wall at Bamford is brilliant at VS. There are also Old & Wrinkled at HVS and The Crease at E1 to go at if that is too easy.

In reply to staceyjg:

Yes, I don't know why Al has included Pedestal Route because it has no slab climbing on it at all. It's just climbing a slabby wall on cracks and positive holds all the way with an overhang thrown in at 2/3 height.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Ok. Already ticked then.

J

In reply to Mr Justice Cocklecarrot:

Some good suggestions for Baslow and Curbar - I've not been to either of those crags very much, although I have solo'd a few bits and pieces at Baslow. I've been to lawrencefield a few times and know the routes your suggesting there, will prob leave them for later on in the season though!

Thanks also to nick, as I have yet to check out the routes around Wrinkled Wall. Adding them to the list now.

J

In reply to Will Hunt:

Why can't a mod be a classic? Especially such a rare one on grit as this.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

No John, everybody does the direct up the L edge now, the 'Question Mark' was more interesting and was the original name and the way it was climbed.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:


Sorry, didn't realise slabs needed 'padding', While I'm here I'll give a mention to Chalked Up at Yarncliffe, protectable if you are good with very small wires.

In reply to Al Evans:Sorry, missed making my point, surely Pedestal route is no steeper than Meringue?

In reply to Al Evans:

At the crux, Meringue is far less secure. If your feet go on PR route you will probably be able to stay on the rock; if they go on M, you will probably fall.

In reply to Al Evans:

I agree however that Grotto Slab IS a slab, because it involves balance climbing. The whole route is an excellent climb to take a beginner up.

In reply to orge:

Routes on the dental slab, Rylstone (names escape me) provide some propper smeary slab climbing at a modest grade and with a great view

<sandbag warning> Old Lace, Crookrise </sandbag warning> a test of composure that will hurt you if you lose it!

Eastby has some fine slabs on pebbles that will test the nerve (and your luck!).

The boulder below Big Greeny, Almscliff (no chips) is a short and artifical test of composure but it is good slab padding.
jk

In reply to orge:

Thanks for starting this as we are in the middle of adding the top ten list for Offwidth and might have overlooked stuff (might be a while as we are delayed by guidebook work).

For various peak grit non-slab suggestions, sandbags, soft touches etc try here:

http://www.eee.ntu.ac.uk/offwidth/top_tens.html

In reply to Offwidth:

I don't understand why Heather Wall at Froggatt gets Severe; bit surprised to see Stonnis Arete not included in the slabby aretes, and Green Gut not making it into the top ten easier corners.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

All grades are current BMC grades. The lists were originally set up as good but safe testers (some undergraded) where possible across the grades and the peak. Stonnis arete is too bold to fit that mold but gets a mention further in. Green Gut is not quite hard enough at severe (even though it gets HS in Rockfax!)

In reply to Offwidth:

You think Green Gut is easier than severe?

In reply to Reaver2k:

No, I think its a 'not desperate for the grade' severe.

I always thought Green Gut is an odd one... None of the moves are especially hard and there's gear just about anywhere you feel like placing it. However, it's quite sustained, particularly if you lack the grit confidence to stand/smear on some of the polished edges - something that might make it feel a touch more precarious to less experienced climbers.

J

In reply to orge:

Go back to the linked thread. Its solidly middling HS in the Rockfax database votes and I'm mystified. IMHO its an upper end severe but not borderline HS; but within the range of subjectivity would naturally have a minortiy of experienced climbers voting lower grade HS. Take the smaller polished edges away and I think its still just severe (ie not a monster S corner like the old grade for The Drainpipe at Burb South). Awkward but safe routes at a grade will almost by definition cause the inexperienced to struggle.

In reply to Al Evans:

No they dont, everyone follows the line that is in rockfax and where all the biggest most polished steps are, because people wh oclimb it are mostly beginners - and that line is the question mark. Ive done it many times and didnt realise anyone ever climbed it up the left edge

In reply to orge:

I'm not sure if it technically a slab, but Jitter Face on Stanage feels more like one than some others mentioned here..

In reply to Fredt:

Jitter Face is a lousy route to try when you come back as its unprotected (and sandbag graded in the old guides). Quite rightly upgraded in both BMC and Rockfax to HS 4a.

In reply to Si dH:

Im with you. Most follow the polish, a minority do the left edge.