UKC

"Dear Alan,

I remember clearly as if it was yesterday the two weeks that I spent with you in the Dolomites and then we moved on to the Alps. They were probably the hardest two weeks climbing of my life.....It was way back in July 1974 when you joined me out in Italy. I remember meeting you at Milan train station and us running to get away from a gang of very determined prostitutes wearing very little. We first climbed one of the Sellaturm ......and knocked off a load more routes finishing up with Torre Winkler which almost proved the end of me it was so difficult and steep"

Alan Heason takes up the story of his and Brian Manton's season in the Alps in 1974 before family commitments took centre stage.

With great photographs: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=803

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
Fantastic article, and great pictures. Good work!

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Superb! can honestly say that's one of the best, one of the most informative articles I've read in the mags.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Thanks for that Alan, brought a lot of memories back. Were we all really the blind leading the blind in those days, going for routes that are often left for a few seasons nowadays.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
Great work, fantastic and inspiring article. cheers

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

A very good article Alan and I'm sure there are more.....Matt showed me the photos of some of the early white water expeditions....

Happy Birthday for your 70th!

Cheers

Dan

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: fantastic article.. really good read!

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Good one! And Brian Manton is climbing just as hard know!!!

Stu

In reply to Stu Tyrrell: He is also climbing just has hard now?

Stu

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
A very interesting article. Those were the days! I was also in the Dolies that summer - mainly in the Pala group.
Incidently, in the photos, I am sure the two unknown people are actually below the Vajolet Towers and Brian is about to climb on the FIRST Sella tower with the great Pordoi wall in the background.
The Fourth Sella Tower was rarely climbed in those days and even today it is quiet. However it is included in the latest Alpine Club Guidebook (Dolomites West and East) with two routes, the West Face Direct (V) and the more modern North Face (VI+) which is ideal in hot weather.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

great artical, particularly as I am planning a dolomites trip.

Just one niggle - when did the Sloth become E1....

In reply to kendogcatchy:

Ever since I was misinformed recently. Sorry. HVS, I believe. Still seemed very hard then. Oh, and no-one spotted that the pic is a mirror image.

Alan Heason