UKC

has anybody ever climbed in ben alder and if so any advice and suggestions gratefully recieved
thanks leo

In reply to leo of aviemore: Cycle in and do it as a 2-dayer.

In reply to dan bailey: I meant in terms of the actual climbing and will go for a long weekend thanks

In reply to leo of aviemore:
I'll let you know after next week

In reply to Dr.Strangeglove: that would be useful thanks as am thinking of going 2nd weekend of march if your back before that

In reply to leo of aviemore:
sleeper train up this friday, and back wednesday night, I'll try to remember
to post on thursday - any area you are particularily interested in?

In reply to Dr.Strangeglove: general conditions and if you get a look at the route alderwand that would be handy although any info gratefully recieved. good luck this weekend looks like you could get a lot of snow but high winds as well

In reply to leo of aviemore: you did say 'any'

In reply to leo of aviemore:
yep, just looking at the forecast - might bin the tent and bothy instead, at least on saturday night.
Alderwand is certainly on our hit list - probably also look at the northern routes as well. if poor nick we will just go bagging.

In reply to leo of aviemore:

The cliff with Alderwand is long with few distinguishing features, particularly in poor visability. The most defined feature (from memory) is Culra Gully about 2/3 rds the way along the cliff (if approaching from Culra). The newer guide has a reasonable topo, older guides only have text. Furthermore the plateau edge is prone to cornice. Consequently a day with reasonable visibilty is helpful.

Routes are climbable in leaner conditions providing the turf is frozen, and in such conditions may sport some good frozen seepage, particularly in the first few pitches. Neve would be best, and powder or heavy snow will significantly decrease runner and belay oppertunities. A few blade pegs & couple warthogs/hooks are useful.

Nice to visit every now and again. Have a good one.

In reply to ScraggyGoat: Even with the topo, in thick mist and thin snow cover we were unable to find Alderwand as the face lacks features.

In reply to ScraggyGoat:
thanks thats helpful

In reply to leo of aviemore:

remember to take some fuel for the bothy - there's not much wood in big left to burn.

pegs are definately recommended for these hills.

ice maiden is great route but probablly not there at the moment.

Plenty of snow on Ben Alder yesterday though looking over from Beinn Udlamain. Alot of windslab so worth checking out the aspect of Alderwand as its a big face. I think the guide implies most of the face goes at a similar grade so if you can't find the route exactly it doesn't matter - just be explorative.

In reply to Neil Anderson:
certainly the impression I've formed, there are a few routes in the smc new routes update which might be worth a look as well as the guide book ones.

In reply to leo of aviemore:
snow conditions this week at ben alder,
sat-tues, fresh accumulations of snow each day and around or sub-zero at 750m. below fresh accumulations a layer of weakness at about 20cm but required heavy loading to shear. massive cornice, exits difficult. the exit at the top of leftz gully not existant on tuesday-weds.
thaw on weds morning and snow pack saturated below 950m, still decent depth of snow cover. if it freezes up soon could be good but
carefull of those cornices. if you follow us up left gully you will find the detrius of our retreat after a pleasent night sleeping in the cornice
-]

have fun
Dr.S

In reply to Neil Anderson: Agree, I did Alderwand a few years ago and wasn't sure I followed the correct line, though somebody had done it the day before and I followed their cornice cut through. Thought it was very straightfoward for Grade 3, though the attraction will always be the isolation/remote feel to it. Pick a good forecast, great place and worth waiting to get the views..

In reply to drstrangeloveinforeignparts: sounds like you've been having fun!

In reply to Paul Atkinson:
yes, a very entertaining evening, what one might call educative. had stunning weather - will post some pics. certainly a great venue for a couple of days stay.
wind was ferocious on the wednesday - trashed a brand new ultra - quasar!