UKC

Read this report Ben Nevis in very good nick

http://www.abacusmountaineering.com/currentconditions.html

In reply to jessie:
Looks lovely! I hope it lasts.

In reply to Alex Roddie:
Weather maps looks like lots more snow with some minor thaws for the next 7 days. Then high pressure building from the North. Please let this happen

In reply to jessie:

Noooo! A dislocated ankle means all I can do is feel sorry for myself. Please don't rub it in

In reply to CurlyStevo:
I've already have two trips with reasonable conditions, so knowing my luck, by the time I head up to Scotland again on March the 17th it will all have gone...

Still, I get to go to Wales weekend after next so maybe (just maybe!!) there'll be some winterness over there too!

In reply to Alex Roddie: Well appears you have a low level of commitment there

In reply to mike kann:
Hehe, I'm quite surprised myself actually at how many trips I'm managing to cram in! Four in just over two months, that's good going for me. And I don't think I've ever cancelled a trip because the conditions might be bad ... I always get out and learn something new.

In reply to Alex Roddie: Well I'm up on Thursday. Yipee!

In reply to mike kann:
Time to book a week off work i think!

In reply to hindu: Its a done deal. Some how it appears for once I have actually managed to hit (touching my table which is solid pine and sat on a birch chair) a good weather window!

In reply to Alex Roddie:
Ben Nevis is generally a late season venue that continues on and off till late April or May most years, you'd be pretty unlucky for it all to have gone by mid March! The MET office spring forecast is looking fairly promising for the first half of spring also.

Could be mild and wet on any particular day though.

In reply to mike kann:
Lucky sod!

In reply to Alex Roddie: <sticks tounge out>

In reply to jessie:

This thread is probably misleading, especially for folk thinking of driving long distances. Glen Clova & Beinn Udlaidh are much better bets for this weekend and probably the foreseeable future.

In reply to Jonny Tee 69:

Quite right, and as Curly states the Ben is a late season venue, nothing comes into dondition for at least another 4 weeks.

In reply to jessie:

North face of Mount Keen has just come in.

In reply to JimMcQ:
Excellent that means Chonzie is in as well then, I'm glad the guides are keeping quiet regarding these locations. Maybe we should do the same?

In reply to drmarten:

Mums the word then.

In reply to Jonny Tee 69:

What are you on about did you read the conditions report ? Its in condition ! Its certailnly not misleading in fact it could not be a better report for those thinking of making the long drive as they now know its worth making ! I have seen it with my own eyes the Ben is in ! Its certainly known as a late season venue and am sure that it will get better but if its in its in, if people are waiting for all the routes to be in at the same time and the skies blue then you will be waiting a long time. Given the way the winters are going if there is ice to climb then get in there as your end of season paradise might not happen !!!!!
Take it while its there !!!

In reply to Dan Goodwin: Me thinks Jonny Tee, was being just a tad sarcastic!!

In reply to Dan Goodwin:
No, no, you don't understand. Clova will definitely be better.
I've heard that Mount Florida is looking good at the moment too.

In reply to Iain Forrest: Look C gully is in its best nick for 25 years. Apparently. Heard from my mates, dogsitters sisters workmates mum.

In reply to Iain Forrest:

I got a text saying is looking Mount Vernon good.

In reply to drunken monkey: I don't think it's worth driving any further north than the lakes.....I've heard there's stonking great piles of neve everywhere!

In reply to Alasdair Fulton: Aye, Kinder Downfall is fat too.

In reply to Iain Forrest:


Only at the very top of Prospecthill. Mount Vernon might be worth a try though.

In reply to Norrie Muir:
Excellent stuff, that's my weekend sorted!
With the forecast as it is, there's a good chance that the North Face of Maryhill could be shaping up nicely too.

In reply to Iain Forrest:


Gilmorehill is a place to avoid just now, what with all the students having epic.

In reply to Iain Forrest:

I'll have a look out the door in 15 minutes and let you know.

In reply to Norrie Muir:
Cheers, I appreciate it - just watch out for avalanches from your cornices.

In reply to Iain Forrest: Norrie in Avalanche chasing shocker!!!

In reply to drunken monkey: I might dry tool the glasgow city chambers tonight before it gets plastered in snow!

In reply to drunken monkey:

I'll have you know, I nearly got hit by an avalaching Cornice on Ben Nevis, it must have been one of Curly's late winters, as it happened in June or July 1972, it was the day I did Strident Edge.

In reply to Norrie Muir: Aye, winters were late back then! (Not that I'd know, being a whipper snapper an all that)

In reply to Dan Goodwin:

Sheesh....

In reply to Jonny Tee 69: Dont spill the beans!! Dont want everyone knowing how good Udlaidh is gonna be this weekend.

In reply to Iain Forrest:

I can confirm Maryhill is in condition, I saw 58 people with North Face Jackets; 36 people with Berghaus Mera Peak Jackets; 15 axes; 10 hammers and what looked like 128 people with ice daggers.

In reply to Norrie Muir:

Didn't they go out with Gaston? Or have you been watching Basic Instinct?

In reply to Norrie Muir: "128 people with ice daggers"

Not exactly a rare occurance in Glasgow, but more commonly known as "Chibs".

In reply to Norrie Muir:
Excellent. It's good to see that people are responsible enough to get tooled up before going out in these conditions.

In reply to Iain Forrest: Its always a good idea to go oot "tooled up" in Maryhill.

In reply to mike kann:

I don't think Gaston is a common name in Maryhill, those types are only seen when the Maryhill Magyars are playing at home.

In reply to Dan Goodwin:

So what is 'in', other than the usual suspects?

In reply to Norrie Muir: Braeriach.

In reply to jessie:

100 mph winds and pishing rain dont sound great to me.

is someone looking at an old december pic on their winter climbing calendar?

In reply to jazzyjackson: its not raining high up.

Looks rather Wintery to me: http://www.mwis.org.uk/mountain/WH.PDF

In reply to drunken monkey:

no, sounds like full on blizzard conditions with winds making walking hazardous/impossible over the next few days.

In reply to jazzyjackson: People will still get stuff done. It may well have to be away from the west coast however. Unfortunately, that is where I am off to this weekend (Well Torridon, so NW), but will make the most of it where possible.

In reply to drunken monkey:
Me too, as it happens. The weather doesn't look the best, but there's always something good to do in Torridon. Maybe bump into you on the hill (as I blow past).

In reply to jessie:

What's the latest news on Hadrian's? I heard it was complete but a bit thin.

In reply to Iain Forrest: Yeah, it looks wild indeed. I've got the 3 munros on the south side to do, so hopefully get them done this weekend.

In reply to jessie: i hav no doubts mr peascod is a gr8 position 2 assess the conds on the Ben. But his reports read like a cheap travel brochure. i.e. Glanced at then tossed in the bin by those who hav bn there & know what it is really like.

In reply to jessie: Was up at my Dads in Ayrshire today, and the Bing accross the field is hoaring up nicely.

In reply to parafinn: Can not really understand what you are getting at have you been up there your self if so please tell us what it is like if not go and post your views on another post .Ps check out the number of views this posting has had last time I looked it was past 1800. I live in the Lakes some 4 hrs drive from the Ben reports like this help me decide wheather it is worth the drive or not.

In reply to neil0968: Hi Neil I live in the lakes too! Would u like 2 meet up & tell me that face 2 face?

In reply to parafinn:

Ooh a tough guy.

In reply to Mooncat: right that's it top of V Corner 04.00 am Friday! Oh hang Fell top assessor has just declared Hellvellyn out of bounds

In reply to parafinn:

My mum always collects me from school anyway.

In reply to parafinn:If you check other blogs and websites they will confirm that report as for your other comments its only a forum.

In reply to neil0968: 2 borrow a phrase: 1800 views doesnt mean its right. Are u a sheep or a herdwick?

In reply to parafinn: Aye ,do people not realise that guides are always posting sh1te like this.
Hadrians being thin in March doesnae equate to good conditions in my book !
I would also like to say that a short while ago me and a pal were roping up at the start of a route and a guide appeared and tried to start before us,while we were enjoying a smoke.
Needless to say he was tw*ttted and rolled downhill with no more ado .......

In reply to Gael Force: hi Gael, despite my own Weggie origins & Sassenach's prejudices towards me, I do not condone physical violence. In ur situation id hav tied off his rope.

In reply to jessie:

Just come back from the Hills.

I doubt Glen clova is in as its too low down for conditions at the mo. (but you never know).Went up Glas Moal at Glenshee Weds. snow that is there is excellent but southern cairngorms has missed most of the recent snowfall. eg no runs complete at Glenshee. FL has been above summits too alot so not much ice around. Lochnagar was predominately black on Weds pm. snow in gullies but no hoaring/icing on buttresses.

Yesterday (on Drumochter hills) snow overnight to 650/700m small amount but rapidly thawed off during morning below 800m with showers turning to rain. Plenty of snow i facing North thru' East facing gullies but alot of windslab around yesterday on top of a hard old layer over 900m.

Felt much more like 'avergae' April weather and conditions than February. (accepting there is much to an average in Scottish weather these days.)

If you want something in nick this weekend my advice head high. Enjoy the wind!

In reply to neil0968:

It's looking quite windy, but I can almost guarantee that a very large number of people will find routes in condition on Ben Nevis this weekend, if that helps.

In reply to parafinn: We did try diplomacy first,briefly,....but my friend has a bad temper.

In reply to Neil Anderson: Didn't you know that Clova has it's own micro climate which turns it into an all year round winter climbing venue?

In reply to jessie:

I think you need to read between the lines of this report. It's better than it was but nothing looks fat.

In reply to DaveHK: try going to dundee- last time i was there it was fat everywhere

In reply to jessie:

I was in Clova this morning and Look C is in fine condition, can't wait to get at it. Will have to be an early start to beat the lemmings though!

In reply to Barber Baz:
haha

In reply to JimMcQ: The waterfall at Muchalls shore was frozen this morning, so I guess all the other sea level waterfalls on the Aberdeen coast will be in condition too. Make an early start.

In reply to Chris F:

I plan too. 00:01 start time, any earlier and I'd be late for the day before............

In reply to Barber Baz:ooft! Get em Dave!

In reply to jessie:

With respect to Mike and those supporting him, there is nothing in that report that a seasoned weather watcher could not have made an educated guess at. Precipitation plus temperature fluctuation is almost always a winner on the Ben. I hope the ability to make conditions judgements on weather info alone is not being lost.

In reply to Jamie B.:

I suspect you may be disappointed. It's not the seasoned weather watchers that are the concern.

In reply to Jamie B.: I was tempted to head up the Ben this weekend but gonna wait until end of March. I'll be surprised if I don't climb every day, in decent conditions.

In reply to Mooncat:

Hi I waited for you at the top of V groove his morning. Where were you? Colud you not get your car of fits bricks?

In reply to Ian Black: Couple of mates climbed the message on tuesday in decent nick.

In reply to Jamie B.:

Jamie, Exactly right. Mike tends to Highlight Route Names & Grades then says the route was "looking" in condition / forming etc. very misleading.

Mike P if you read this could you cut out the conjecture from your reports, please? Can you also confirm your reports have absolutley no commercial interests at all?

In reply to parafinn:
Tend to agree with most of your points of view and only use the photos on the reports to see if my guesses are founded.
However, I don't get your point on commercial interest...of course it has a commercial interest!
It's a way of getting advertizing in a way that is not too expensive (appart from time). He is not bothering himself for the greater good (although I'm sure he's a nice bloke...don't know him so can only guess). So, in that respect, I won't give any sticks.

It is what people do with the info that matters: if you're canny you follow experience, and if you're unexperienced and uncanny you end up queueing...that is called climbing darwinism.

You make the mistake at the start, evolve, improve your knowledge and get better experiences. And some will never know any better and could never get a feel for a real scottish adventure... their loss! That it could coincidentally be more dangerous just adds to the darwinist theory.

In reply to riquet:

Riquet, vachement, merci bien. J'ai cinquante ans et peut etre je ferai un bonne continuation pendant ma vie. Darwin ou non?

felicitions

In reply to riquet:
I've met Mike before, seemed like a nice guy and has also freely given me advice when asked by email before.

I tend to agree in his position he's going to tend to be optimistic but whilst still remaining accurate enough to be useful at increasing peoples enjoyment of Scottish winter!

In reply to riquet:
A reliable English language informant I know, who lurks in these, alas, unfrozen UKC waters, is telling me I have committed an uncompromisingly gallic mistake: apparently one gives someone stick not sticks!!!
Despite him being a geographer, he is relatively well read and lettered so will trust him and humbly ask UKC readers to forgive my ignorance.

parafinn:
A polyglot Scotsman (BTW you might well be English for all I know), this is rarer fare nowadays! Would you agree with my point cependant? oui ou non?

In reply to parafinn:

I would take Mike's occasional over-optimism any time over the pessimism and defeatism that one often encounters here and elsewhere.

In reply to Jamie B.:


That is true... however, is it not a John Knox heirloom!? All is doom and gloom if you're not predestined to be on The right route on the right day?

Are thee worth of thy creator's benevolent ice? Search your heart and repent thy unfrozen sins and thou shalt be let in Heaven. For is not Heaven the antithesis of the furious fires of Hell?

In reply to riquet:

Bit early for you to be on the uisge beatha is it not Erick?

In reply to riquet:

Ecossais, j'habite a L' Angleterre dans le Pays du Lacs, mais desire habiter a la France.
D'accord mais Darwin? Si vrai, pour les animaux, pas droite pour les alpinistes - beaucoup des veut morir, non?

Allez les blues!

In reply to parafinn:
There is no conjecture to cut out - I report what I see (hence "looking") and it is down to each one of us to stick our noses in it and have a go. Making the judgement on the condition of a route is your call - if you are relying on me to do it for you I suggest you take up a different sport.

I get around 1000 unique visitors on my site every day and of those I imagine 1 or 2 might be looking to book some guiding. However the conditions page does make the site look up to date and current and it is quite nice for my clients to phone home and say to their friends to have a look at what they've been up to. I think there is very little direct commercial value in the reports.

Anyway, what's your point? What's wrong with me being commercial and running a guiding business?

Mike

In reply to Mike Pescod: Well said mike I think your site is very useful a really good report the other day.It fact all of the guides now have excellant web sites.please keep reporting.

In reply to Mike Pescod:

Mike agree that there is no substitute for shoving your nose in it.

There is no way after years of Scottish Winter climbing I could keep up the level of activity and enthusiasm your clearly display.

Where I do take issue is your links and posts to your commercial site on general chat forums.

You advise me to take up another sport if I overly rely on your reports. Sorry, but I take your reports with the same disdain others have posted on this thread.

Something tells me all good boys who have aspirations for routes on the Ben 2moro should be in bed. goodnight
kind regards

Davie Parafinn

In reply to parafinn:

Why do you have an issue with Mike's post because they are commercial? UKC is a commercial site which has "general chat" forums with adverts. To use UKC to say another site is commercial and take issue with that seems at best naive, at worst totally stupid.

UKC doesn't provide winter reports directly as none of the ownners, from what I can see, get out in winter regularly. Mike et al do.

In reply to parafinn: Just read through this thread, and I can't really see what your problem is. If you don't think any web sites conditions reports are accurate, then don't bloody look at them. It's a bit like watching the BBC national weather and then complaining that, in fact it didn't pan out the way the forecaster said it would. If you need a conditions report from a guides web site to make your decisions then maybe you should think about employing a guide to help you make decisions for your self. And as has already been said, a mountain guiding business is in its very nature commercial, so it makes sense that a guiding business's website will be commercial.

In reply to Monkeyrock: Could not have put it better myself by the way it was my oringal posting {I have changed my user name} I never thought a simple cut and paste of a excellant condition report from ben nevis would create such discussion some of the comments have been off the mark but I suppose it is a forum and thats the nature of them.

In reply to Jim Fraser:
Jim, I was up there yesterday and a team were belaying at the start of Hadrians, it looked "in but thin" though you'd be better asking those two guys. There were others on Observatory Ridge and at least 3 or 4 pairs round in Coire na Ciste (Raeburns/Comb Gully or Buttress was what I overheard) when we left the CIC at 9am. There's a large snow/ice fall down the front of Gardyloo Buttress (Smiths?) and the snow higher up was quite firm. JohnnyTee69 may like to know the chockstone on Gardyloo is blocked again, tunnel where/how/wtf? Did the variation on the right and exited the cornice to the left. There were occasional gusts of wind and very occasionally brief snow showers but nothing too bad, the weather forecast was worse than the actual. The constant snow started on the walk-off.