UKC

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Good to see a strong Nott's Wall contingent as usual: well done Ashleigh and Luke.

Lets hope a few more 'outsiders' come for the boulder comp next year... they might learn a thing or two.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Yeah, it's a shame there was no women's super final on that route or she'd have wupped everyone.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
How exciting, well done Shauna!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Why's there no winner up for 'women 46+'?

In reply to gingerkate:

Hi Kate,

I'm guessing due to lack of entries - however that is a guess.

Here is the full listing: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2470

No female 46+ mentioned.

I'll ask the BMC.

Jack

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
That's my guess too.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Not a suprise that Shauna did so well. I'd expect some interesting news about her achievements outside to be hitting headlines before the end of the summer.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

or maybe before the end of spring!

In reply to andy farnell:

What's she been on at Malham then?

In reply to Paz:

Tom Waites song

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Mule Variations?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

And an album too, no?

Go Shauna, it's your birthday. Go Shauna, it's your birthday*

*We don't give a f it's notchya birthday.

In reply to Paz: sorry if i'm being a bit dumb here (after all it is a bit late) I don't really understand the results table on the BMC site, can someone explain? thanks.

In reply to Paul B:

You have to read the table from left to right. The rows are given in descending order of who won, came second, third etc. which is only worked out right at the end. If everyone or more than one row in a column is a 1 it's beause they all did equally well in that round (basically they all topped out), and so went through to the next one to split the pack. I think after one of the rounds two are in joint 4th so they go forward too to `play off' for fourth place. I've no idea how the scores are calculated.

"
Full results below:

Female 12-15

Route 1

Route 2

Combined

Final
Forename Surname Height Posn. Height Posn. Score Posn. Height Posn.
Shauna Coxsey TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 2.958 1 = TOP 1  
Kitty Wallace TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 2.958 1 = 34 2  
Rebecca Hall TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 2.958 1 = 27+ 3  
Hannah Beresford TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 2.958 1 = 27 4  
Charlotte Ellison TOP 1 = 32 5   4.183 5        
Alice Waterhouse TOP 1 = 28 6   4.583 6        
                           
Male 12-15

Route 1

Route 2

Combined

Final
Forename Surname Height Posn. Height Posn. Score Posn. Height Posn.
Luke Tilley TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 2.000 1 = 26- 1  
Tim Lloyd TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 2.000 1 = 25- 2  
Paul Williamson TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 2.000 1 = 24 3  
Michael Clayton 14- 4   16 4   4.000 4   11 4  
                           
Female 16-18

Route 1

Route 2

Combined

Final
Forename Surname Height Posn. Height Posn. Score Posn. Height Posn.
Ashleigh Naysmith TOP 1   36- 1   1.000 1   26- 1  
                           
Male 16-18

Route 1

Route 2

Combined

Final
Forename Surname Height Posn. Height Posn. Score Posn. Height Posn.
Pete Whittaker TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 1.732 1 = 24- 1  
Tony Musselbrook TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 1.732 1 = 23 2  
Andy Gravestock TOP 1 = 23- 3   2.449 3   13- 3  
William Osborn 19 4   14 4   4.000 4        
                           
Female 19-45

Route 1

Route 2

Combined

Final
Forename Surname Height Posn. Height Posn. Score Posn. Height Posn.
Karen Whitehouse TOP 1 = 28- 1   1.414 1   26 1  
Lizzie Bowler TOP 1 = 13+ 3   2.449 3   25+ 2  
Sarah Messenger TOP 1 = 22- 2   2.000 2   21 3  
                           
Male 19-45

Route 1

Route 2

Combined

Final
Forename Surname Height Posn. Height Posn. Score Posn. Height Posn.
Alan Cassidy TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 3.000 1 = 14 1  
Adam Watson TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 3.000 1 = 14- 2 =
Drew Haigh TOP 1 = TOP 1 = 3.000 1 = 14- 2 =
Adam Jeewooth TOP 1 = 29 4 = 4.500 4 = 14- 4 =
Joe Wilson TOP 1 = 29 4 = 4.500 4 = 14- 4 =
Roberto Stallioni TOP 1 = 23- 6   5.196 6        
Simon Rawlinson TOP 1 = 22 7   5.612 7        
Nick Moulden TOP 1 = 21 8   6.000 8        
Simon Tilley 29- 9   11+ 9   9.000 9        
                           
Male 46+

Route 1

Route 2

Combined

Final
Forename Surname Height Posn. Height Posn. Score Posn. Height Posn.
Nick Colton TOP 1 = 19- 1 = 2.121 1 = 26- 1  
Ian Dunn TOP 1 = 14 3   3.000 3   22 2  
Alan Murray TOP 1 = 19- 1 = 2.121 1 = 20- 3  
Peter Brown TOP 1 = 12- 4 = 3.674 4 = 17- 4  
Dave Godley TOP 1 = 12- 4 = 3.674 4 = 14- 5  
"

In reply to Paz: Thanks for straightening out, I thought that was the case, I was just struggling how to make the secondary part of the news article fit with a lot of people topping out.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

i find that hard to believe based on a recent points ranking:

Female - 12 - 15 yrs
1. Shauna Coxsey - 300 points - 8 rounds

vs

Male - 19 - 45 yrs
1. Drew Haigh - 345 points - 4 rounds
2. Alan Cassidy - 325 points - 4 rounds
3. Robin Sutton - 320 points - 4 rounds
4. Roberto Stallioni - 300 points - 6 rounds
4. Joe Wilson - 300 points - 4 rounds

the same or more points with half the number of rounds in most cases.

I'm all for bigging up the kids but truth in reporting is also important.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

That quote is truthful reporting. It's what someone said, which as you can see below is a mixture of fact and opinion.

"The really interesting thing is that at the end of the comp, 15 yr old Shauna Coxsey got on the men's route (ok not under stressful comp conditions) and basically would've beaten all the 19-45 yrs men - how good is that?! She's gonna be a star..."

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

wait....i thought the comp was a cumulative points based thing....ie one that can invite comparisons such as the one i made.

if the quote is true then she would have similar stats as the blokes no?

In reply to Morgan Woods: From my limited understanding its based on cumulative total over 3 rounds. I went and tried some after it had finished at leeds and i think its 20 points for the onsight which means on average she was onsighting 7c i think.

In reply to Morgan Woods:


Morgan,

I will inevitably get news wrong, however I certainly won't lie and I find it quite offensive that you have suggested that I am.

I have a quote from a very senior and reliable source within the BMC who was one of many witnesses to this event. I have used that quote in my news item.

Your statement: "I'm all for bigging up the kids but truth in reporting is also important."

implies that I am lying in my report, which is not the case. If you are implying that my source is lying, then I would appreciate it if you clarify that on the forums.

Of course they could be lying, I wasn't at the event. But I doubt very much that they are, and as you are speculating without any real foundation and I am quoting an eye witness official from the event, I would perhaps seek clarification before continuing your argument.

Remember, this isn't a pub. The forums are archived, stored on the server and searchable. They are a reference tool. And this thread is linked directly to a news item and an article.

Jack Geldard

Editor

UKClimbing

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Morgan

I think you should check your facts before spouting off on a Forum.

The points totals you quote are the total scored during the best 3 rounds by each individual. The figure saying how many rounds is merely confirmation of how many rounds that climber had entered. So the points totals are completely comparable.

As for your comment on "bigging up the kids" that really is so derogatory and so completely inappropriate.

You obviously weren't at the event, but I was, and I can confirm that the most impressive ascent of any Female competitor, regardless of age, was Shauna's casual flash of the final route. The same route was used in the Senior girl's final, and none of them got close.

The most impressive (but this time not by far) ascent of any male competitor was 17 year old Pete W's near flash of the final route. The same route was used in the Senior men's final, and none of them got close.

After the comp had finished, Shauna got on the mens final route, and flashed to a higher point than any of the senior men had reached.

These top "kids" needed no bigging up. Their comprehensively superior performances were there for everyone to see.

Neil

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Jack,

I'm sorry if that's how you understood my comments. I just had trouble believing the statement based on the results I was able to get from the BMC site. Could you please look at what I said, the facts quoted and let me know if I drew the wrong conclusion?

That said I would withdraw any suggestion that you are lying.

In reply to Neil Foster:



Now that makes a lot more sense.

In reply to Morgan Woods: Thanks Morgan, appreciated.

I think from your later posts that you perhaps misunderstood how the finals worked. They were in a standard comp format.

The scores from the 'ladder' were to enable the finalists to be chosen.

I refer you to Neil Fosters post above.

Full rules here: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=134

Congratulations again to Shauna and all the other finalists. I am inspired by her performance and I wish her good luck in future comps.

Thanks,

Jack

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
So the route that Shauna did so fantastically well on, after the comp, is that the route some of the guys were talking about on this thread, the one with the 'very greasy sloper' ?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=293673&v=1#x4353812

In reply to gingerkate:

It was Kate.

Actually that link you posted was very interesting, as I hadn't previously spotted Drew - sorry Dirtbag1 - 's comments, or indeed Rob's on the Malham thread.

They both argue that the Stockport comp walls were not the most appropriate because they weren't steep enough, and therefore the strongest, fittest climbers would not prevail.

Interestingly I commented to a few people before the event that the only problem with Stockport would be that they would be bound to set the final on the steepest walls - which they did - and those walls are really too steep, when combined with hard moves, for people like me.

Personally I would have rather climbed on a final set on the vertical walls. This would have been much more challenging for the setters to set, but could have produced a really interesting final which didn't just come down to a test of strength.

Each to his own, I guess...

Neil

In reply to Neil Foster: Its interesting that as I'd say the bouldering comps have done exactly that, becoming extremely technical so beastliness doesn't always prevail.

In reply to Neil Foster:
Yes, I suppose everyone is going to want the sort of route that suits them, that's only human. Competitors must be so keyed up before an event like that, and it must be very disappointing for a person who feels they haven't been able to show their best.

Jack, is Shauna 14 or 15? Top of this thread it says 15, but in the mini-interviews it says 14? Also, how long has she been climbing?

In reply to Neil Foster:


My friend who was in the men's final was annoyed when he fell off because he wasn't too tired, just his foot popped.

Shame that all the men fell off the same move and it was decided on count back, especially as it was relatively low down.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC & Neil Foster:

Thanks for clarifying guys. Again sorry to call your integrity into question. And I certainly wouldn't want to cast doubt on Shauna's achievement either.

In reply to Morgan Woods: Sorry to be picky Morgan, but the BMC were not very good at updating the scores, Drew (me) on-sighted every route in the last 5 rounds. The first two scores were disappointing, but understandable as they were very close to my recent illness. As my health improved so did my scores. These results gave me the max score of 360. Cheers. I worked hard for this score and just wanted to set the record straight.

Congratulations to everyone who did well; and to everyone who had a go.

I want to congratulate everyone, regardless of sex and age.

No-one can do that well without putting lots of effort in. Well done!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

It seems from the photo that Nick Colton has been cheating since he appears to possess size 23 feet . Shouldn't there ben some sort of handicapping system introduced to offset the advantages of outsize appendages?

In reply to dirtbag1:

That is a remarkable achievement, Drew. I'm not surprised you are proud of it and wanted to set the record straight. I would be too! (chance would be a fine thing...).

Now, how come you couldn't hold that greasy sloper on Saturday...?

Neil

Just want to say well done to,Pete ands Tony who climbed really well on the final men's route. Maybe there is a future for British indoor climbing comps after all.