UKC

"The story of the early attempts to climb the Eiger North face has been told many times, and is full of heroism and mythology, not least because the most famous account, “The White Spider”, was written by Heinrich Harrer, one of those on the first successful ascent.

When I first heard about Rainer Rettner’s new book “Eiger – Triumphe und Tragödien 1932-1938” I kind of expected another rehash of the known stories, with added new pictures. I was pleasantly surprised that I was wrong......"

writes violentViolet

Read the full review: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=945

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Reiner, is in my humble opinion, today's greatest writer of mountain history. He's a great writer AND a great historian. His book on the Corti tragedy of 1957 was an amazing achievement, and I think that "Eiger - Triumphe and Tragodien" will ever surpass it. It's really a new generation of mountain histories, something I think it's somehow needed at long last.

Really hope this book will put him on the map even outside the German language area!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Nice to see the German-language lit getting reviewed here. You ought to think about reviewing Lehner's book as well, as it's still fairly recent and would be an interesting complement.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Without wanting sound either facile or slightly homoerotic, but Heckmair was built like a brick s**thouse then wasn't he!?! You think back to past and tend to remember the funny haircuts or silly mustaches but forget the top guys of their age were super athletes just like the top people of our age. Heckmair's "buffness" for want of a better word, makes that point!

In reply to TobyA:
Yes. I find that photo very beautiful and also touching, for just the same reasons. It reaches to you through the years.

In reply to Luca Signorelli:
I hope this book comes out soon in an English translation. Having had the privilege of browsing a copy I agree with violentViolet that it is worth getting just for the photographs, but I would so like to read it properly.

In reply to TobyA: He has a beautiful body. Looks like a lot of modern day boulderers. How did he manage that without modern training techniques? That's a tongue in cheek and actual question.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

What a great review - thanks VV

J

In reply to Moacs:

Rettner's publishers have the review also - and are very pleased.

English translation is more than possible we are told.

Mick

In reply to TobyA:

Yeah, I had to check the date on the photo! I thought they were all 'gentlemen' climbers but he looks well strong.

J

In reply to gingerkate:

Actually the kind of books that Reiner and Daniel are producing are great of the picture AND for the text, so just browsing the pictures is missing half of the point, whatever good the pictures may be. Their book on the Corti tragedy was informative AND gripping without aiming at the lowest common denominator.

They're really bringing mountain historiography into 21st century!

In reply to Moacs: seconded!