I read the artrial when it was first released. I was quite happy with twidds report and have contactted him through email before and after the report. I didnt think such details really mattered in the purpose of the report. That is education.
But There's still questions floating around, which ill answer honestly. I tried to avoid answering them. Mainly because I was a pick and feel like one.
I tied only onto a 8.1mm as i lead out 60m to reach the start of the route. we didnt like the snow. I built a belay under Kellets route. Kerletts looked in great condition so i climbed Kelletes first pitch. I decided to
still use the 60m 8mm as the first pitch looked over 50m's and i realized i was handicapped with only 4 ice screws. 10 meters of extra rope would give me rope to find a belay for Dave.
Unable to find a rock belay (having only one screw after the 50 meter pitch) I traversed into the cramped smiths cave. Building a good belay, i realized my 8mm would be difficult to belay with my equipment available. I chose a body belay which i was familiar with. having used this system on on rock climbs and alpine climbs and a the few Scottish climbs i had completed. I have held a small leader fall, and quite a few tired seconds, (even with a single 8mm, while climbing the frendo spur) I was well aware how much fiction a body belay creates and how uncomfortable lowering can be.
Dave followed fine. In the cramped stance, i felt cold, but instead of taking time to but a fleece on i rushed off the belay to warm up. forgetting to tie into my 50m, which while placing my first ice screw i realized my mistake, but saving time didnt down climb.
Arriving at the stance i arranged this belay
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc131/ianjackson_bucket/Scotland2008.jpg
its in important to consider the how i built this belay, as it looks to good on paper. The snow/ice was terrible. ignoring this i dug a stance and dugout some ice to place my last ice scew. It when in to easily and i wasnt happy with it. I hammered my ice axes in above linking them all with a sling. Not happy and dug away snow to find, too my relief a peg. which was loose so i replaced it and was I happy with it. The nut in my unprofessional opinion was solid, hammered home. equalized these pieces with my 8mm rope.
I learnt on the system gear to my right, gear to my left. I felt tied in. i felt really solid. obviously false. I took the rope round my
back and twisted over my left arm.
Daves weight came onto the system. I held him. fully confident on the system i didn't even thing "what if?". My Ice belay came out. this twisted my hip sending the rope over my shoulder and on to my neck. halving the fiction Dave increased speed. I believe i must of let the rope over my neck. maybe because it was stinging? the rope now twisted only round my arm. I had lost complete control over the rope. the rope came tight, with extreme force. Crushing my hand as twist round the rope formed a bite round my hand. I fainted. Leaving my and dave held on the Peg and Nut. I belive the belay broke davids fall. the speed he was going, he would of not wakled away if the smiths icefall was 50 meters tall.
I woke up in extreme stress, expecting to have killed my partner. Shouting down his name, a faith reply came up. "Iam not coming back up!!" in a rather angry yorshire ascent that i recognized as Daves. In shock, i started to prepare to rope down to Dave. the crux of the matter trying to tie a prussic knot. I came aware of Twidd and his client and wisy decided to stay put as he "suggested".
Twidd climbed to my stance, built an amazing belay. dragged his client up and lowered me to the ground. where now i was pleased to meet, Duncan Francis. who was descending Tower Gulley after climbing Point 5. He and Dave helped me down to the CIC hut. Duncan and his partner Simon then drove me and my car to hospital.
I wasn't suppose to be climbing that day. We were driving home. I was planning soloing a climb in the morning and running back. I didn't have the heart to say I was wanting to climb alone. So Dave joined me. Me were slow setting off and slow walking up. Time was pushing, I was rushing. Rushing the wrong things.
Please see ive got nothing to gain from this post. I hated writing it and now Iam now regretting writing it, but some people leave me with no choice!
Francis - you have mail.
Ian Jackson.