UKC

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: This is awesome news. Gutted i can't be over there! Have a good one guys. ED

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Sounds like a very impressive attempt!

Not sure if they did already but would have been nice if the BMC publicised the meet on here....esp the host program:

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2296

i will be up there this weekend anyway....albeit as a F7a climber who is <occasionally> willing to go for it, close to good protection and onsight (with plenty of beta).

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Hello Morgan
Hosting opportunities were advertised in a UKC premier post in Feb/March - see http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=288356

Tony Ryan, BMC

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Not surprising - Nico Favresse and his mates have been putting up some impressive routes all over the place for a while now

http://www.nicolasfavresse.com/

In reply to Tony Ryan, BMC:

cheers Tony....i must have missed that.

In reply to Morgan Woods:



Not the first time Sean's tried to onsight an E8. He tried to onsight another one in Fairhead in Ireland a while back. The climb was The Complete Scream (the last climb in Underdeveloped for those who have seen it). Sean ended up down climbing it after breaking a peg on it while testing the peg with a few tugs. Sean then went and did the second ascent of the route last September after some inspection. This is a route that James Pearson retreated from in the past and that Ben Heason only just did the 3rd ascent on last weekend....10m's runout over skyhooks.....scary!!!

He's well known around Ireland for coming and eating up all our hard routes...last summer he even added a new E7 to The Burren and a few weeks ago he added a new E6/7 to The Mournes. I've never come across anyone so enthusiastic....even in the face of shit weather.

The two of them and two others were in Pakistan last year and they put up some really impressive new lines. One of their routes Ledgeway To Heaven they did in Alpine style base camp to base camp in 40 hours roughly I think, and this was with difficulties up to 7c......really impressive stuff especially when the routes are 1200m's long and top out at 6000m above sea level. I have the book from their trip at home and the pictures are inspiring. Has to have been one of the most impressive ascents form last year!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

>It is often wondered what would happen to British trad if we ever spawned a F9a climber who is willing to go for it, way above poor protection and onsight

Sounds like they'd fall off! Wonder what the Rich-Simpson-could-easily-onsight-Indian-Face-if-he-could-be-arsed crew think.

Maximum respect for the effort, though.

jcm

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
I had the pleasure of climbing with Sean on day one. It's so inspiring to see these guys (and others, there were E6 onsights by the Italians and Slovenians too) trotting up to the base of these routes and dispatching them with very little fuss. Lord had several ascents and Right Wall was practically a trade route. More importantly they're all thoroughly bloody nice blokes, very friendly, chatty, and encouraging. What a great week, well done to the BMC again!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Spoke to some of the Spanish (Catalan) guys at the Grochan yesterday who were getting on well with some of the harder routes there.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Check out my photos from the BMC climbing meet if you would like to share a piece of the action! http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/48222598