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Climbing/ Mountaineering Trip To Wasdale

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 olliejackson 25 May 2008
I am planning a trip to the Peak District (Wasdale area)in June. I am only 16, so can not drive and have selected various trains and buses to get me to Ravenglass.

I was wondering if anyone had any information about good routes of various difficulties to have a go at...and equipment needed for them. Also if anyone new any cheap ways to get from Ravenglass to Wasdale? Finally, anybody know any good camping spots?

Thanks Ollie
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 25 May 2008
In reply to olliejackson:

Peak District - Wasdale, you mean Lake District - but you knew that!


Chris
OP olliejackson 26 May 2008
In reply to olliejackson: yes i did mean that.
basic error :S

but yer can anyone help?
 Caralynh 26 May 2008
In reply to olliejackson:

Let people know a bit about your experience - are you looking for single or multi pitch climbs? Trad or sport? (although no sport in Wasdale) What sort of grades are you looking for?

A bit more info should get some good responses
 stewart murray 26 May 2008
In reply to olliejackson: Ollie, you can get to Wasdale head by walking over Styhead Pass from Seathwaite at the end of Borrowdale (train to Windermere or Penrith then bus) which has the advantage of being more accessible than the West of Cumbria. For climbing on Great Gable you can wild camp at Styhead Tarn for a couple of nights. You'll find if you fill in your profile that people will be more forthcoming with advice re climbs etc as they will have some guide as to what is likely to be suitable for you.
 sutty 26 May 2008
In reply to olliejackson:

Few questions as you have no details of where you live or experience in your profile. Will there be someone else with you to climb with, can you walk from Boot to Wasdale after getting the narrow gauge railway from Ravenglass as Rob does each year;
http://www.fellwalk.co.uk/p_corpse.htm
http://www.streetmap.co.uk/streetmap.dll?G2M?X=317600&Y=500680&A=Y&...
http://www.streetmap.co.uk/streetmap.dll?G2M?X=317365&Y=500705&A=Y&...
http://www.streetmap.co.uk/streetmap.dll?G2M?X=319500&Y=506500&A=Y&...

Campsite is where you arrive in Wasdale.
 sjbutterworth 26 May 2008
In reply to olliejackson:


Hi Ollie

Wasdale is the back end of beyond and you'll need to plan buses VERY carefully, including dial-a-ride.
http://www.cumbria.gov.uk/eLibrary/Content/Internet/544/931/1099/3950715515...
Best bet might be the walk from Ravenglass or use the Ravenglass to Eskdale Railway and get off at Eskdale Green and walk.


You could get a taxi if you don't mind paying but it will be £10-£20.

Wasdale is just awesome and is my favourite Lakeland valley but takes me two hours drive and I only live 10 miles as the crow flies. The Borrowdale/ Styhead Tarn suggestion sounds brilliant as long as you don't mind a bit of a walk. You could also do from Langdale but it is a big walk. It will probably take about 4-5 hours. Be sure you can navigate and have the kit and skills to spend the night out if you need to.

Langdale is much easier to get to, is less remote and less intimidating. Train to Windermere, bus to Ambleside, frequent bus to Langdale.

Enjoy your trip
 BelleVedere 26 May 2008
In reply to olliejackson:

As mentioned Langdale and Borrowdale are both easier to get to by public transport, as both have buses that kind of link with trains.

For borrowdale you can get a bus from either penrith or carlisle, and for langdale from windermemre.

But if your heart is set on Wasdale - then maybe think about hitching.
 kaiser 26 May 2008
In reply to olliejackson: Ollie - stick to Plan A and go the Peaks, Wasdale is not a good area for Gritstone and you'd need to take your passport as it's in Wales
OP olliejackson 27 May 2008
In reply to olliejackson: Right experience wise, i have done a number of technical multi pitch routes, however i am a much better mountaineer for my age.

I will have two other people climbing with me, one who is very competent, so climbs can be of various standards.

thanks Ollie
 Caralynh 27 May 2008
In reply to olliejackson:

Which routes have you already done? (Just to get an idea of things you're after).
As for "much better mountaineer" - better than what? Better than a climber? So you're after easy long mountain routes? What about the non-competent person? Will you be climbing in a 3, and does he/she have any experience at all?
 stewart murray 27 May 2008
In reply to olliejackson:
Some suggestions. Wasdale is the best climbing centre in the Lakes if the weather is good. You'll be able to get to Scafell, Great Gable and, after a bit of a walk, Pillar.

However, if the weather isn't good then there's not many options so you need to be flexible. I'd plan to bus/train it to Borrowdale then if the weather is set fair, go and camp at Styhead Tarn, have a day or two's climbing on Gable before descending to Wasdale. If the weather isn't so good then you can stay in Borrowdale where there are far more valley crags and the distractions of Keswick.

As for routes on Gable, if you are comfortable leading VD then do Arrowhead Ridge to begin with. This has the advantage of an approach walk which takes you past all the main climbing areas on that side of the mountain so you can identify other routes you like the look of.

Assuming you find Arrowhead Ridge well within your ability you can then retrace your approcah route and could, in order of arrival do some from Abbey Buttress (VD), Eagles Nest Ridge (MVS) (if you are confident climbing 4b above a no 2 rock) and Tophet Wall (HS). All are serious mountain routes so it is taken as given that you are confident route-finding and setting up bomber belays. Innominate Crack (VS 4b) is another good route.

I've deliberately left out Napes Needle as it requires some interesting rope techniques to belay on top and protect the descent - refer to Needlesports website for full story.

If multipitch VD is well below your normal grade, then just pick out routes in the order that you arrive at them ie something on Kern Knots, Tophet Wall, then the Napes. I'd still recommend Arrow Head Ridge - you could ascend it with sacs as your last route of the day and finish on the summit of Gable.

Once you've enjoyed some routes on Gable, descend to Wasdale Head. There's camping at the pub (don't think the facilities are up to much), or a little further down the valley at the National Trust site - showers and shop.

Next I'd head for Scafell. Assuming you're climbing around VD - S (if you're climbing harder then you can sort out some routes for yourself - there's more 3 star routes at VS and above than you can shake a stick at) you could do a route on Pikes Crag (big crag on your left, catches the sun) such as Grooved Arete (VD) carrying your sacs. This will leave you but a short walk from Mickledore where you can leave sacs and head for a route on Scafell. Pisgah Buttress is good at MS. Slingsby's Chimney followed by the Knife Edge Arete to the top of Scafell Pinnacle is well worth doing.

If you find these easy then Moss Ghyll Grooves is just MVS because of a couple of well protected 4c moves on pitch 2, and imho the best route of that grade on Scafell.

Pillar involves a long walk in (around 2 hours) but is another superb crag. Classic routes in the easier grades are the North Climb (HS - can't comment as I haven't done it) and New West - superb VD. The descent, especially from High Man where New West finishes is complex involving descending a moderate climb - Slab and Notch. There's a post on here somewhere where Stephen Reid recommends ascending then descending this as a first route so that you're familiar with the descent.
 sjbutterworth 28 May 2008
In reply to stewart murray:

This is a World Class post - fantastic stuff. Think I'll print it off and save it for a sunny day. Quality

 sutty 28 May 2008
In reply to sjbutterworth:

He did make some good suggestions didn't he for a newcomer to the area?

Well done Stewart.

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