UKC

Off to Curbar hopefully at the weekend for the first time what routes would you recommend around the VS hvs grade especially any slabby types.

In reply to simonty1:

Curbar isn't renowned for VS slabs ! off the top of my head, I can't think of many - there is a scruffy HVS slab to the right of Green Acres but apart from that....

In reply to simonty1:

I prefer Birchen to Curbar, loads of quality HS - HVS routes there.

In reply to simonty1:

peapod

In reply to rogersavery:
thats HVS isnt it? seen pics of it

In reply to simonty1:

Forget Curbar mate, this time of year.

Do yourself a favour. If you can't comfortably lead HVS/E1, go elsewhere

In fact... if you can comfortably lead HVS/E1, go elsewhere! 8-)

In reply to simonty1: it is hvs but its amazing well worth a pop or should i say pod

In reply to Cragrat Rich:
heard it had a bit of a reputation may wander along to Froggat

In reply to simonty1: Walk along to three pebble slab at Froggatt. A fabulous slabby route.

In reply to simonty1: The Toy would be good to try as an E1 if you feel like pushing the boat out a bit. Short, just about a slab and with good gear.

In reply to deacondeacon:
yeah want a go at that seconded it so want to go back and lead it

In reply to simonty1: its brilliant. Did it on sunday as my first hvs lead. There is a few good slabby routes at froggatt.

In reply to simonty1:

As others have said, Curbar's not renowned for VS or HVS slabs, the general advice for there is to put your forearms on Defcon 1...

That said, The Brain is a great route at VS with a slabby start and Owl Arete's worth a look too. I can't think of any HVS slabs at Curbar (Baron's wall might be *just* off-vertical from memory - but it's hardly a soft touch!).

PMC1 is the obvious warmup at HS too - well worth doing.

In reply to Different Steve:


Potters Wall is another good choice for an HS warm up and make sure you throw in a quick solo of Dog Leg Crack.

bluebrad

In reply to simonty1:

The blind leading the blind....

There's quite a few routes with slabby stuff to do at those grades; 'soft' means overgraded IMHO, 'sandbag' the opposite.

Try:

Beech Buttress - (soft) VS slabby wall to slab arete
Amythyst - VS slabby wall
Campion Wall - VS finger crack to slab
Short slab -HVS slab
Greenacres -(soft) E1 boulder problem to slab
Thin -VS steep slab finger crack
The Brain- VS bold slab to easier corner/arete finish
Illiostomy -VS bold slab arete
Suspect Intellect - HVS boulder problem onto steep slab on rounded breaks
Pretty Friend -VS bold slab (avoid loose HVS top corner pitch)
Pale Complection - VS steep slab arete (watch the HVS steep slab climbs around here...all sandbags)

In reply to Offwidth:

Oh, forgot Peter Rabbit - (sandbag) VS very bold slab (but really at least top half HVS)

In reply to simonty1:

Could be remembering wrongly
but Bel Ami is a good VS - not slabby tho'

In reply to Carless: It is slabby .... as undercut corners go.

In reply to Offwidth:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?text=avalanche+wall+&x=8&a...

In reply to Offwidth:

Hmmm - I think your definition of slab might be different to mine Of the ones I remember, The Brain finish is solid and steep VS climbing and Thin and Campion wall are, well, walls !

In reply to GrahamD:

Some slabs are steeper than others, some slab's runners are better than other slab's runners (apologies to Morrisey).

The Brain slab is the bottom bit and the crux, the steeper top is prob HS.