UKC

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Wow, cheers Fraser and JLS - very jealous that you got to watch masterclasses for free (although there goes your on-sight attempts!)

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Looks like there's an even more direct version of direquiem still to do!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

It's interesting there has been all this discussion about rhapsody not being the best/most obvious line.

In the picture it looks no more contrived than any of the other lines, Direquiem goes one way, Rhapsody goes the other.

In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat: So it looks like the 'real' direct is still to be climbed

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: good to see this diagram, Rhapsody can be clearly seen as being totally independant from the requiem finish, so where does this eliminate stuff come from?

In reply to Erik B:
The actual line of Rhapsody is about a meter left of the line in the picture (you reach to the chalked hold a little down and left of the 5th green dot on cop out), and from the point that it traverses back right, you can reach your left hand on to the arete, I think that is why it is being called an eliminate.

Nice one Steve on a quick ascent, I look forward to hearing your opinions.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Just spoke to Keith Sharples who was on Requiem this weekend.

The technical grade is more like English 6c.

Also, the significance of Requiem is not to be underestimated. Climbed back in 1983 by Dave Cuthbertson - and it is a trad route that Keith thinks is harder than Statement of Youth Fr 8a, Ben Moon's quality creation climbed a year after Requiem.

Much respect to Cubby.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Someone should make sure Gary Gibson sees this - there are at least 4 more lines to be done in there...

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Not having a go but couldn't that have been inferred from the grades that were asigned at the time, ie Statement E7 6b, Requiem E8 6b?

In reply to Stig:
Requiem was given E7 7a at the time wasn't it? (I think it's that in Dave Jone's photo book...)

Is the top section of Requiem initially climbed usig the obvious feature for the feet and hands up where the blue dots are?

The Ent

In reply to sbowness:

This 1.8mb download of photos...

http://cid-abb64eeabac65fc9.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/Sonnie%20Tro...

...showing one of Sonnies redpoint attempts shows the line climbed a bit to the left as you say.

You can see that the range of body positions required on the route(s) mean that the line actually climbed swings about a bit and covers a lot of rock... I'm sure the forth coming HotAches video with make all the lines clear in due course.

The photo topo tries to follow the main rock features followed, the actual body position may be at arms length away either side of the line.

In reply to Enty:

This series of photos show Requiem being climbed. I think the answer to you question is yes.

http://cid-abb64eeabac65fc9.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/trotter%20lo...

In reply to sbowness: how can rhapsody be an eliminate when it isnt near another route? there are thousands of routes which have possible escapes off them but arent called eliminates

In reply to Erik B: I think the point was that Trotter felt it was deliberately ignoring the most obvious lines up the headwall. That makes it an eliminate.

In reply to Lemony: what are the obvious lines? the two obvious visual lines/features are requiem and rhapsody, if anything the recent additions are eliminates and completely pointless.

In reply to Erik B:

If I was on an E3 and ignored a jug which would make it E1, I'd call that an eliminate.

The Ent

In reply to sbowness:

As JLS said above, you're spot on - apologies for the error. I've found a good shot showing Sonnie in that exact position and should've checked for it prior to now. I've just uploaded it to my gallery so should be viewable soon, for those that are interested.

In reply to Erik B: Rhapsody isn't an obvous line, its the 'hardest line of resistance'

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: it's certainly amazing climbing and a great achievement, but i haven't heard about the ascents of the other routes in the picture. who did those, and how long are the routes from where the climber is?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

So was Requiem the first E8 after all then (pace your Margins of the Mind pieces?!)

jcm

In reply to Aiden Wright:

>"who did those"

See the current news page on this site...

Requiem E8 6b FA: Dave Cutherbertson, 1983.
Rhapsody E11 7a FA: Dave MacLeod, 9th April 2006.
Direquiem 5.14a R FA: Sonnie Trotter, 5th June 2008.
Cop Out 5.13 b/c R FA: Sonnie Trotter, 11th June 2008.

>"how long are the routes from where the climber is?"

About 20m of climbing the Requiem crack takes you from the starting ledge to the point shown in the photograph.