UKC

I was hoping to have a pop at this A1 route over the summer and was looking for any advice from experienced aid climbers and in particularly some beta from people who've done this route. What do i need other than usual stuff for ropework? Will i need aiders? How long a rope is needed?

Are there any other aid routes in the area?

Sorry for the amateurish (sp?) questions.

Matt

In reply to Matthew Burton:

Fifi hooks very useful for efficiency. Use extenders where you change direction to cut drag.

In reply to Matthew Burton:

A belay seat if you split the route, long slings if you don't

In reply to Matthew Burton:

Oooo. This sounds fun. Can I come?

In reply to Matthew Burton:

Just the usual stuff, specifically a short extender or two if you don't have a fifi. Highly entertaining and bloody strenuous is my memory!

I struggled a bit to decide on where to go as there seem to be more bolt lines than routes in the N. Limestone guide so take care when scoping out a line. We got monster rope drag on the line we took too.

Also, be prepared for weirdness! When I was there earlier in the year there were a number of robed up folk who'd bivvied up there and who spent their time chanting and (apparently) praying to the rock. Added a certain something to the experience!

In reply to Matthew Burton:




There are several other aid lines in Thors cave itself and also some at Dove Holes in nearby Dovedale such as The Bat and The Ball. A recent thread on here suggested these had been rebolted quite recently as the gear on them was in an appalling condition.

In reply to pec:

Yes the Bat had new bolts about 5 years ago which made it quite straightforward. Unlike about 15years ago when three consecutive bits of gear on the roof were:-

rusty upward placed peg held in by small wooden wedge
downward pointing bolt (no hanger) with sling larks footed on.
troll bolt with bent hanger not able to take a krab so hooked with a nutkey

Good old British aid!!

Kyrie Eleisen good on a wet day - we started up the obvious rock pillar at the back of the cave then traversed into the normal route. Rope drag a problem - over extend everthing or only leave every second or third clipped. If you have no belay seat its possible to return to ground from midway, belay from there then jug up and continue - saves some pain!!

In reply to Matthew Burton:


Do The Bat!

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.

Monk - you'll have to get yourself up to the peak then wont you

In reply to Matthew Burton:

We took a gri-gri and moved together - took hours from what I can remember, and hard work if you're not used to it (I wasn't).

Never cease to be amazed at how muddy you can get from climbing in a cave - apparently due to my poor technique

I dont suppose anyone knows of a good website with some aid techniques on as i've not managed to find anything myself.

In reply to SiWood:

We did it (500 years ago - might even have been the 2nd ascent) moving together, about 40' appart, with the rest of the rope as a loop to pass the gear back to the leader. Took about an hour (FA was three weeks of drilling I believe!)


Chris

In reply to Matthew Burton:

Do you use aid style gear in trees?

In reply to Monk: Personally I just use 2 different friction knots at the moment because i'm a cheepskate. Lots of people do use asenders which is one thing i'm thinking of investing in over the summer. SRT isnt that much use in commercial tree work though and i cant footlock so I may just stick with knots and string.

In reply to Matthew Burton: I did this route last weekend, took me just under 2 hours. I left 2 quick draws in, too short to re-cover them!! Help yourself!
Enjoy the route its great fun.

In reply to riddle: This doesnt bode well for me since i'm short aswell. Though I do have an unhealthy desire when crag swag is involved!

In reply to Matthew Burton: Go for it anyway! I should have used "pull throughs," to recover my gear on the longer drops. But figured it was worth it for the fun, although my hips did ache for a day or so after. I didnt use a belay seat, didnt have one with me.

In reply to riddle: I dont have a belay seat but i can get hold of a tree climbing harness which basically has a bench built in. I do think i need to get hold of some more extenders though.

In reply to Matthew Burton: u can make a seat. Small plank with drilled holes and some cord. Best to thread rope under your bum as its not funny when its snaps in half not that ur going anywhere

In reply to Matthew Burton: You dont need a seat! You wont be sat still for long enough to feel the benefit! The seat is a great if you are bolting the route or aiding up vertically.
KE is only 60m's long.
I just used my climbing harness and kept most of my weight on my feet. I used slings as i didnt have proper etriere.
I used q/ds to creat extra space on the hangers, made it easier to clip and clip the ets and short attachment.

In reply to Matthew Burton:
Matt. Hereford??