UKC

This morning in Yosemite Valley, Hans Florine and Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama set a new speed record for climbing the 870m (2900') Nose route on El Cap. On their fourth attempt in the last ten days they achieved a time of 2 hours 43 minutes and 33 seconds, beating the previous record set by the Germans Thomas and Alexander Huber by 2 minutes and 12 seconds...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Awesome - congratulations to Hans and Yuji!

How long before the Hubers appear in Yosemite again?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Please link to Tom Evans' report when it's available. His reports are tremendous reading.

In reply to John2:

I'm in touch with Tom. Will do.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
It looked like it was only going to be a matter of time...

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

and for a well written, non-sensationalist account in the mainstream media:

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/07/02/BAQ111IP82.DTL

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Any idea the mix of free vs aid climbing on an ascent like this? And how hard are the free (if any) sections?

I gather Yuji is an 8b+ onsighter so he must have a fair bit in reserve but not sure about Hans.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

The Nose: 2:43:33
by Tom Evans - El Cap-pics 03/Jul/2008

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1141

In reply to Morgan Woods: I think Yuji frees everything up to 12b ish, but ibviously he'll pull on any fixed gear that's in place.

They simul a good amount of the route so Hans frees up to around the 11c mark while belaying.

These are sort of rough guesses, but seem okish! The only 12 stuff really is the start of boot flake, the start of the great roof and the pitch off camp 5, the rest is a bit easier (bit the top stuff is freaking steep!)

Pete

In reply to Chris Sansum:

Awesome but somehow dull and trivial....imo

In reply to Bulls Crack:

disagree that it's trivial.....it's an Olympian effort....i think anyone who aspires to doing something like the Nose in a Day will find this interesting. maybe you have different aspirations.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Like I said that was my opinion. I don't aspire to do the nose in a day because time isn't an important factor in my climbing world and speed records seem irrelevant to me.

In reply to Bulls Crack: Awesome effort by Hans and Yuji

Also check out http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=zh-CN&tl=en&u=ht...


It's not the best film but it's worth remembering that the wall is 15m high, 5 degrees overhanging and the guy on the left does it in 7.35 seconds, a new world record.

In reply to Morgan Woods:
Yuji has onsighted 8c twice, including Pata Negra in Rodellar last year at the age of almost 40, he could still have a reasonable claim to be the worlds best climber(if he wasnt so modest).