UKC

We'll keep this as a permanent Premier Post for route conditions on Yorkshire Limestone.

Feel free to post any updates on routes cleaned, re-equipped or even new routes.

Blue Scar Restrictions Lifted
by - Dave Musgrove on - 09:41 Wed
I've just received notification from the YDNPA that the restrictions are now lifted at Blue Scar. The young bird is now fully fledged but still around the crag and the adults may do a bit of sqwarking but that should not be an issue from now on.

Dave

Routes Cleaned
by - Steve Crowe on - 22:52 Wed
In reply to Steve Ramsden:

Kilnsey was much drier yesterday (Tuesday). I hope to get to Blue Scar this weekend and will climb/clean Central Wall and the routes around it.

The Cave Routes in Gordale have been cleaned.

Routes Cleaned
by - GeoffG on - 01:36 Thu
In reply to Steve Crowe:
As have Butchers Dog, Central Wall and I'll be taking the insitu wires out of Doubting Thomas soon. I understand that a hold has come off the crux of Crossbones making it harder(6a?) and has someone cleaned The Overlap recently because it looks to be in quite good nick.
We could do with an update of cleaned routes on a regular basis as it makes a big difference to the enjoyment if they are in good condition.
Just a thought
Geoff.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

At Kilnsey, DeJa Vu, Deidre, Original Route, White Feather and Claws (first pitch) have all been cleaned.

In reply to Steve Crowe:

On the same trad theme, Balas at Kilnsey was climbed recently and is pretty clean.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: matt troilett and mick johnston have done a belting 8a starting up wyswyg before moving right into the overlap then up the steep headwall to the right of this route.emailed jack with details had no response.cheers matt

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

All the 6b and 6c routes to the right of Gingerbread House, Blue Scar, climbed and cleaned on Friday. The whole crag was dry and seepage free then. I suspect it may look a bit different by now.

Dave

In reply to bogster: Hi Matt,
Mick has forwarded the email on to me. Thanks,

Jack

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Hi All,
thought it prudent to mention from across the catwalk we saw someone pull off a foot and a half tall block from the loose blocky top part of puddlejumper. It missed the seasoned belayer but think it probably killed his sandwiches in the rucksack. before resting with other historical holds in the river.

Didn't go back to look but overheard that they had written "loose rock" on the top after this so presumably there is still loose rock on the top. Sorry cannot be more specific but thought it worth warning so someone can post clearing up the current state of the route

Cheers
Tim

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

by - richard kirby on - 27 Feb 2008

So far....

Malham Upstairs :

Lob'Session - top 3 replaced
Obsession - 4th and 5th
NAT - 2nd replaced
Herbie - all replaced
Conehead - all replaced

Downstairs (not sure 100% on these)
The Oak - all done, will have an extra bolt added on the run-out at a later date (with John's permission)
The Maximum - 2nd and last
Magnetic - all done AFAIK
Connect 4 - top bolt
Raindogs - bottom 3 at least
Free and even easier - bottom bolt
+
The Groove - New(replaced)Half Height Belay(Chain at later date)
The Groove - Bolt before H.H.Belay.

by - richardh on - 27 Feb 2008

add in to the above:

L'Ob Session - new belay
Herbie - new belay
Toad Licker - 4 bolts and belay
Last Waltz - 2 bolts and belay
Last Toad - 1 bolt

7th Aardvark - second bolt
The Oak - John's comment was something along the lines of "are you going to do something about that run out, the only reason there's a gap is I couldn't afford a bolt"
Connect 4 - 3 bolts
Mid Ledge Spread - done
Space Race - most
Hands of Time - most

In reply to richardh: The top belay of The Groove could do with a proper chain lower off plus 1 new bolt. The existing faded slings do not inspire confidence when lowering off 35m to the ground! One of the bolts is fairly new but the other looks ancient! Surely such a classic route deserves a better lower off?

In reply to marky:

Rich Kirby probably mentioned it when he put the extra two or three in mid-route? I can't remember what we said back in Feb now.
We didn't get enough spare belays from the BMC replacement allocation, but I can ask the Yorkshire Bolt Fund guys for one.

I have some left-over bolts so as and when people mention things, I'll put it on the todo list for after the summer holidays. I can't get any time off until the window closes around the 22nd July

In reply to richardh: Anyone got an up to dae conditions report for Kilnsey and Malham? espeically North Buttress and catwalk...

In reply to north country boy:

12:41 (7 hours ago)

Reply

Things are very wet- anything left of overnight is black the things right of bongo are going that way. Upstairs seemed to be holding out for the moment but it is raining loads at the mo. I can climb between 12 and 4:30 tomorrow if you can think of anything that might be dry enough to try!

Will

In reply to richardh: working all weekend i'm afraid, hopefully it will be a bit better by midweek ....

In reply to richardh: The belay on NAT doesn't inspire confidence, any chance of a new bolt(s) up there? Was very grateful for the new 2nd bolt on the route, keep up the good work!

Also, what's the deal with Puddlejumper? Are there plans to glue in place whatever loose blocks there are, or is general consensus to remove the loose stuff?

In reply to Sean_J:

I thought they'd cleaned up Puddlejumper when the bits came off? After I took the mickey, Paul R responded "As for any loose stuff left, it all got brushed off. So it should be ok for now??! ". Is there an issue, not been up for a couple of weeks?

A belay on NAT will/could be in the autumn now, no bolting from the 22nd July. will put it on the list.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Kilnsey was wet yesterday, with all the rain we had last night i don't think there will be much at all dry today. We managed to do Little Ernie thought it was 7b+ and worth 3 stars, it is completely reequipped

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Anybody heading up to Malham tomorrow? What state is the Oak in? and Mid Ledge Spread?

In reply to north country boy:
I was on Mid Ledge yesterday and it was bone dry, in fact yesterday was the mythical 'sticky damp'.
Hopefully going back for a rematch tomorrow, are you looking for a partner?

In reply to Serpico: quite possibly, although not sure i can get there yet due to lack of transport.....

I will hopefully be meeting people there, but will post later and let you know...

In reply to Serpico: How can it be bone dry, sticky, damp and mythical all at the same time. An impossibilty shirley?

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:
To get back on topic! we've cleaned and climbed the routes on the left side of Blue Scar today ie Unreal, Blue Grit, Hells Teeth and The Kill. Still a small seepage on Central Wall but getting better and rest of routes look in good nick. Shootist and Spineless fairly wet. Underlap and Professor of Desire still seeping a lot. The crag needs more traffic, so get on them!
Geoff.

In reply to GeoffG:
This picture sums up the seepage situation at Malham yesterday evening:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilbinns/2688753052/sizes/l/

In reply to Neil Binns:

now, that *is* service, nice one. Can we install you on the path just about there for a daily snapshot??, 365 days a year, of course.

In reply to richardh:
A webcam would be very handy for that purpose

In reply to Neil Binns:

Much better nick last night.
Groove almost dry.
Zoolook only damp on final tufa.
Upstairs looked in good nick.

Twisted has two new runners. Lower-off to be installed after the schools summer holidays; no more bolting for now. Route needs a good clean though.

In reply to ally smith:
Much more seepage at Malham yesterday. Did Zoolook but wouldn't have liked to have been on the lead on it; the mid height rest was wet and the final tufas were running with water. Bottom half of The Groove also V wet.
Steve D drove past Kilnsey and said it didn't look like there was a dry route there.

In reply to Serpico: So Kilnsey's not in the mythical 'sticky damp' status then...

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

No, neither Malham last night, it was the less fabled sodding sh**ty damp. so slimy I pinged off Rose Coronary to much mirth and hilarity.

In reply to Serpico: A do you know what state Goredale is specifically Defcon 3 as I gave this a clean earlier in the year before the monsoons arrived - probs need to get the wire brush out again now? Also does anybody know if Illywacker is dry at Hollywood Bowl?

In reply to marky:
Had a walk in to Gordale on Friday and it was soaked.

In reply to Serpico: Cheers A looks like Defcon will have to wait till I get back fom France. Do you reckon Hollywood Bowl would be worth a look?

In reply to marky:
I think It'd be wet, I've not heard of anyone climbing there recently. We're trying Kilnsey today.

In reply to Serpico:

Kilnsey was pretty dry yesterday but very warm and humid. A bit of seepage on pockets, a few route affected more significantly (I believe Urgent Action was wet). Pretty quiet too - has everybody gone to France?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Trow dry.

In reply to idc:

All dry yesterday bar the odd damp hold on the shady side.

In reply to richard kirby:

this may get missed so put in here.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=313853

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Most things on the left were dry or drying as of the end of the day on sunday. Straightened was dry, zoolook and new dawn seeping tufas. Didn't rain all day whilst i was there up till about 4:30 (cannot say after that)

Cheers
Tim

Malham bolting arrangements update :

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=314446

In reply to richardh: Anyone know the state of Kilnsey at the moment? And what is the situation with bolting? (especially new lines...)

In reply to north country boy:

kilnsey was bone dry last weds. I have no idea since the deluge on thursday night. As blue was apparently sopping on the weekend, I wouldn't hold out much hope.

Bolting, no restrictions that I'm aware of, apart from retro the trad stuff at your peril, new stuff up to you I think.

In reply to richardh: Ok, sounds like a goer for the weekend.

Need to scope out a line at the weekend, with a long lost trad start however which the gear looks very suspect on....

In reply to north country boy:

Kilnsey was pretty dry last night. Few avoidable wet bits on WYSIWYG. Dalience had a few wet bits.

Malham conditions

Loads wet today. Overnite dry, as is connect 4 and energy vampire. Most warm ups around consenting dry. Upstairs looked dryish too.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

forgot to mention full tilt and urgent action wet also, plus surrounding routes.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Malham - Most stuff dry, just stuff around Maximum and Austrian, damp patches on bottom of Groove, and a few damp patches upstairs.

Kilnsey - Most stuff dry apparantly, except stuff on North Butress.

Anyone been to kilnsey today? Is it still hanging in there/be alright tmrw?

In reply to Steve Ramsden:
Forget it, it's soaked. And where it's not soaked it's humid and soapy.
We had to wade out it was so bad.

Anyone going to Malham today post some conditions reports on returning Mainly, Cry Freedom, Overnite, Maximum, upstairs.

Thanks

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Even in the current conditions there'll be something in decent nick upstairs. Last year was wetter and you could climb all the way through if you picked your route. Most of the ones around Main Overhang/Conehead should still be ok.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

Yeah thought so. Climbed up there other day, was really good. Did that Conceptual contunuity, well worth doing, and a few more holds came off Conceptual, so thats probably 7b+ now....

In reply to Adam Lincoln: I'd heartily recommend Conehead, it's got some of the best moves I've ever done on a route and no where near as hideous as it's reputation.

Andy F

In reply to Adam Lincoln: someone on Cry Freedom today so presumably dry in parts if not completely dry. Maximum wall looked pretty wet. Not sure about overnight but raindogs had it's low seepage streaks in full flow as a reference? Upstairs was in good nick (as always?), though the tufas on herbie, etc. were wet. However, the seepage drips/rain was blowing in quite a lot at times and it was freezing.

In conclusion, I'd guess most of what gets wet at malham, is wet right now....

In reply to Adam Lincoln: all routes you asked about are wet Adam, upstairs was good although Herbie and NAT were wet.

left hand side looked very wet downstairs!

In reply to north country boy:

Thanks guys...

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Upstairs : Herbie tuffas wet, New Age T wet, Lob Session dry & climbed Obsession dry & climbed on, Renaissance dry Free & East dry Main Overhang dry Conehead dry plus most routes to the right

Cheers

Ian

Malham
Connect 4/overnite dry, everything else left wet. Most stuff up to fence us dry. Upstairs, most dry execpt new age, and stuff further right wet.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Anyone been today?

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Malham
Dont bother unless your on the easy 7's warmups, connect 4, overnite or toadall recall

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Thursday, Malham , wet wet and then wet . BUT its nice and sunny today .

It was minging though .

Any update?

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

bump

In reply to nbonnett:

Off to Malham now, will post later.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Bookmark this guys, ill try and keep it updated.
http://yorkshireconditions.blogspot.com/

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

you know malhamba.com sort of did the same? always seemed easier to come by here and catch a random conditions thread.

In reply to richardh:
Yesterday evening Malham looked soggy, Blue Scar was Black and I've never seen Kilnsey with so much seepage - even in the depths of winter. There was a lot of surface water on the roads too. It's all going to need some drying
Andy

In reply to richardh:

On a seperate note, do you know who rebolted Toadal recall? The 3rd bolt, when a quickdraw is hanging on it is right on the way of a crucial hold...

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Toadal wasn't part of the last round of re-bolting IIRC. The 3rd bolt never seemed much of an issue when I did it, nor when other I've belayed were on it.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

It might not be the third, but the draw hangs right on the hold you need to use on the slopey shelf with the three holds on it.

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Aye remember its only slightly annoying, i don't remember it being a big issue. Certainly mustn't have been for you either.

Top route was my first 8a and was pleasantly surprised at how fast it went.

Cheers
Tim

In reply to tbertenshaw:

Yeah very good route. This rain is a blessing in disguise! Forcing me onto upper tier. Big hold broken off it as well since Arran did it. Move after the undercut you get after tuffa gaston. Was a big pocket now a poor sidepull pocket.

In reply to Adam Lincoln: aye was a poor sharp pocket when i did it. still youre not on it for long, just whilst you reach up to that good crimper before the "Real" crux arrives.

Cheers
Tim

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Don't know mate, as Andy said, that wasn't part of this round of replacements, so no idea.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Anyone been out today? Last night?

Whats dry at Malham Kilnsey Gordale?

Or are most things seeping?

Ian

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Friday, blue very streaked up. climbed on Kilnsey where there are a few dry routes. Malham very streaked on Wednesday. Nice dry day in Dales today (Saturday)so things should start to stop seeping

In reply to Alan Steele, aka Mr Inglesport:
Well not being the greatest sports reporter I'm not sure about downstairs but I can confidently say that the Right Wing was in good nick today. Most things from Mulatto Wall through to the right hand end were in good condition and several were done.
Geoff.

In reply to GeoffG:
Central Wall @ Blue now climbed and clean. Get to it!
Geoff.

In reply to GeoffG:
Kilnsey very wet with few routes worth doing. Much wetter than Monday. Even Sticky Wicket has a wet hold!
Geoff.

In reply to GeoffG:

Blue scar even wetter, not a dry sport route on the crag, some of the trad may have been do-able. We decamped back to kilnsey for more dampness, though open road and arch rival were dry. as was frankie and ground effect.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Worth noting that I pulled a fair sized block off the start of From Beer To Infirmity on Blue Scar at the weekend. I pulled off most of the remaining loose stuff that I could so it should be fairly solid now but still worth taking care. I reckon the start was more like 7B rather than 7a+. Nice glued on hold above the roof Paul!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Any recent updates?

Kilnsey was soaking at the weekend very few dry routes.

Cheers
Tim

In reply to marky: Obviously should have used some glue at the start too!

Paul

In reply to tbertenshaw:

Gigg South was bone dry yesterday but probably of little interest to you Malham/Kilnsey guys.

Dave

In reply to Dave Musgrove:

Still useful though, I've been surprised by conditions at Panorama and Foredale when both Kilnsey and Malham have been sopping and had very good days out at both.

Nothing really dry this evening at Malham except Consenting, rated pg and personnel services

Kilnsey piss wrapped

Yorkshire game over!

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

not game over yet, it'll probably be dry all winter! get your thermals out.

Malham closed this morning as someone decided to slip off the top of the crag. Just re-opened now.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Echoes of Syrett. Odd how we were only talking about that on Friday. Fatal I presume?

In reply to Adam Lincoln: is everything still seeping? believe even the warmups were seeping on friday.

In reply to Serpico:

Yes. Blood splattered everywhere according to Jordan....

In reply to tbertenshaw:

Ill get the person that told me to let me know whats dry and ill pass info on

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Things were improving this evening but theres still bits of seepage on anything other than the warm ups, even overnight was still damp. it needs a few sunny days...

In reply to bubblewrap: Any update at present-weather has not been too bad this week?

In reply to millsy: Anyone been up today?

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

Drying quite nicely now.....
Still lots wet though

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Got to be something dry again now ??

I was there on Thursday and some of the warmups ok, rated pg wet at the bottom. Raindogs absolutely gopping until between 1st & 2nd bolt.

Surely with an (almost) dry weekend there's been improvement!? Hoping to head up 2moro so info appreciated.

In reply to S i'm on & on:

What you after getting on and ill tell you if its dry! Obviously warm ups are ok.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Hoping to get amongst the Oak, a mate wants to get on a dry raindogs - I couldn't believe the state it was in on Thurs when he was trying to redpoint it!! My alternative is GBH.

In reply to S i'm on & on:

I would say the oak and GBH are still pretty wet. Raindogs i can't remember looking at. Your best bet is upstairs, mostly dry.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

ah well, it'll be the crimpy crimpy crux of L'obsession then.

In reply to S i'm on & on:

The start is just a tad wet, making it tricky on the feet.... Sorry!

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

FFS!

AND it's raining again near Skipton as I type.

In reply to Adam Lincoln/others:

Going back to the Toadal bolt, the draw hangs right over the hold which isn't too annoying. However because the next few bolts are to the right, the nut on the bolt was constantly coming undone when I was last on it which could be pretty dangerous. I even took a spanner up but it still had worked loose some time later on.

In reply to S i'm on & on: No sneaky 'Oak' action Mr R. The shed was dry last night....I may summon up a posse for some Sunday night crushing if you're keen.

In reply to Robertostallioni:

I know Huecool is dry enough to climb at Gordale if that's any help!

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Well gollygosh, it certainly is. That may well be the revised Saturday plan.

In reply to S i'm on & on:

Well stop typing then...

In reply to S i'm on & on: Loctite or a nyloc nut might help?

In reply to danm:

Everything on the cove is drying fast today. The longer routes on the left are looking climbable again alonmg with everything upstairs. Other stuff should be sorting itself out as the sun hits it. The groove is wet between the end of ss and the rest at the mo.

Will

In reply to bubblewrap:

[hidden from the stallion]
YAY! Is the oak dry? Please.

Pretty please.
[/hidden]

In reply to S i'm on & on:


Tis now, dont know what will happen overnight but everything is now looking dry, might be the odd bit of stealth seepage in some of the undercuts though.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: has anyoe been up at Malham or Kilnsey today, whats it like?

In reply to tom2121:

guessing malham pretty dry now....

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Totally dry, even the Groove was mostly dry - hot mind

Kilnsey pretty much dry.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Trow Gill North wall pretty much dry, although the stuff from polka dot demon leftwards was like pre-season dirty.

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Everything dry now apart from The Groove which is still seeping at the tufa above SS. A bit too hot yesterday in the sun but ok later when the sun had gone off it!

In reply to marky:

The grooves dry today...but still too hard. Did anyone pick up a grigri at malham yesterday? Think i left it below space race.

Will

In reply to bubblewrap: Cheers for the info - didn't see a spare grigri knocking about beneath Space Race/Tremelo area. I hoped the tufa would have improved with all the recent seepage! Dry - looks like time to get back on it!

Kilnsey pretty mint today. If a little windy!

In reply to marky:

Blue scar dry as of today.

Priapism, Central Wall and More Bolts from Blue now have chalk on them.

Everything everywhere should be dry now!

In reply to Adam Lincoln: how was Malham today anyone? Cold i imagine? Any Seepage started?

In reply to north country boy:

Guessing just the groove wet. Think i have given up on routes for the year. The odd short thing maybe!

In reply to Adam Lincoln: wasn't too bad, bits on left wet, groove looked fine....

It was hotter than the sun until about 3ish when it started to disappear behind some cloud cover...

In reply to north country boy:

Seepage coming through today. A lot on left has wet patches. Would think more over night too.

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Anybody know if The Groove is still dry?

In reply to marky:
Total respect for your optimism there Mr H. but no.

In reply to Serpico: Ah well never mind! It was worth a shot as it was drying nicely when we left last sunday. Looks like that could be it for this year!

In reply to Serpico: Could you then tell us what is dry o Serpicocious one?

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

does this mean you're out of retirement?

In reply to richardh:

Must... resist... urge... to post....

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Any conditions reports?

In reply to tbertenshaw:

On Sunday was suprisiningly poor - upstairs was dry from Toadal Recall leftwards except for the starts of L'obsession and routes to its left. Left wing of the catwalk was a complete write off. Middle everdry routes were OK(ish), stuff to the right (Something Stupid onwards) was pretty poor though a few things were climable (e.g. Rose Coronary if you dodged the wet patches).

Given we've had a decent amount of rain this week I don't imagine things will have improved much.

In reply to Ian Patterson: anything more recent than sunday? Forecast was looking okish this week at skipton so wondering if anything has dried out.


Cheers
tim

In reply to tbertenshaw: Given the soaking conditions on Sunday and the rain on Mon/Tues I'd be surprised if anything had dried out significantly. Upper Tier should mostly be fine but most of the Lower Tier will probably be FUBAR.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell: Sunday was as I predicted, but for a surprisingly wet hold on the crux of Conehead. Which was annoying.

Andy F

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Any updated conditions reports? not around this weekend but would be good to track the state of the seepage.

Tim

In reply to tbertenshaw: Anyone been up this week? Has the dry spell had the desired effect?

Andy F

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Malham - mostly dry downstairs, the occasional damp patch upstairs. Pretty stunning conditions.

Andy F

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Any one know the current conditions at Malham

In reply to mattish2000: Malham - Been and found out for myself today. We had the place to ourselves. Did not go upstairs. Mainly Nice and dry downstairs but not sure how long that will last. Some seepage starting to apear and it rained alot while we were there.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: anyone been to malham recently? Hows it looking?

In reply to akhughes:
Drove past Kilnsey last week and that looked black with wet.
Anyone been to Malham recently?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Did anybody make the trip to Malham yesterday and can give am update on the state of the seepage?

In reply to marky:
Malham in generally good nick with lots of traffic.
Kilnsey seeping from many pockets so that most routes have some wet on them.
Geoff.