UKC

Is it true that for Pearsons flashed 8b's were done after he was sent measurements of the spacing of the holds and the angle of the wall, even getting the holds moulded so he could set the routes?

In reply to groovypiper:

I think all James pearsons 8b's were downgraded to 8a+.

secret splendor 8a/+
Shark hunt 8a+
Ganymede takeover 8a+

In reply to groovypiper: Where did you hear that?

In reply to daverockjock:

Incorrect.

Ganymede is 8A+ unless you do the original low start when it's 8B.

James Pearson flashed it from the low start so I don't think there's any argument on that one.

The others have been downgraded by some people and Schule Des Lebens (his other 8B flash) is considered very soft for 8B.

In reply to daverockjock:
Yeah, hes f*cking shit that pearson, all mouth

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Fair play, great effort

In reply to groovypiper:


Where did you hear that? I know he mentioned on his blog that he'd been trying a replica of a route (Rhapsody by the look of it) before going to look at the actual thing but I haven't heard this. It would pose a very interesting ethical question.

In reply to groovypiper:

Where did you hear that? It sounds like rubbish to be honest, especially seeing as they were in Switzerland.

Although others have built versions of routes at home or in walls but I can't see how you would ever get that exact just through phone or email conversations. I don't think it matters really anyway.

It's incredible anyone can do 8b first time. Hard to get your head round really.

D.

In reply to emo: That amde me laugh

In reply to remtherockclimber:

In the late 80's Ben Moon took tin foil impressions of key pockets on a futuristic project at Buoux called 'la grande bomb bleu'. his intention was to create a cellar replica of the crux section to work on back in Blighty. I don't know if his efforts ever came to fruition or if the line has yet been climbed.

A mate was climbing in Rodellar and met Jens Larson (head honcho at 8a), he was saying it was going to be a wee facto in the new 8a climbing year book.

I dont think it seems that unrealistic that someone like james, who is bound to have a few chums cruising about Europe, could find one of them to take a few measurements and make a few impressions of holds in places they are probably climbing anyway.

Could all be pish, but it's what I was told, I was just wondering if anyone else had heard of this.

I also think it is very bad ass for someone to climb 8b first go, or even at all.

In reply to teddy:

Hi Ted,

Those tinfoil impressions ended up being made into resin replicas of the pockets by Bendcrete who I think sponsored Ben at the time. They were in their boardroom, mounted at the right angle and spacing... and they were really rather poor holds indeed! Didn't Alasdair ever show you?

I don't think the route has ever been done, although I remember hearing an unconfirmed rumour that an anonymous Eastern european had done it.

In reply to TimB:

I remember John Gaskins built Hubble in his cellar (the route not the space telescope!)

In reply to TimB:

Hey Tim great you learn something every day! No big Al never showed me dude, i never made it round there before he made the switch to EP.

In reply to groovypiper:
I can tell you that is utter rubbish Funny how stories start...

Must remember to speak to Jens

Take it easy

James

In reply to J-Pearson: Ok, we'll let you have the flash then!