UKC

NEWS: Alex Huber - Multi Pitch 8b+'s & Grand Capucin Solo

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 Jack Geldard 03 Sep 2008
Alex Huber has recently soloed the Swiss Route on the Grand Capucin, climbing both up and down the route.

Huber has also been busy establishing hard, long sport climbs in the Tyrol. His latest creation Feuertaufe is seven pitches long and weighs in at a hefty F8b+.

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=09&year=2008#n45293
 Mr Lopez 03 Sep 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
> climbing both up and down the route.

??????????????????????????????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 jwi 04 Sep 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Regarding the A0 passage on the Swiss Route, Alexander Huber writes this on his webpage:

>Nach meinen Erkundungsgängen kannte ich die Route und
vor allem die schwierigen Kletterstellen, trotzdem
musste ich für mein Vorhaben, völlig hilfsmittelfrei
diesen exponierten Gipfel zu erklettern, noch zuwarten.
Denn das für die Gletscherwelt im Montblanc-Massiv so
segensreiche schneereiche Frühjahr machte einiges an
Abwarten notwendig: Ein Riss, der zwischen der
Schweizerführe und der benachbarten Route „O Sole Mio“
den Ausstieg ermöglichte, eiste immer wieder nachts mit
dem täglich anfallenden Schmelzwasser zu.

My German is horribly rusty, but I take this to mean that Mr. Huber climbed the route without aid, using a crack between "Swiss route" and "O Sole Mio" to bypass the aid at the top?

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