This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Looking for recs for a first HVS, ideally on Peak district grit, something well protected and reachy, I'm quite tall so have to play to one's strengh, though been a girl I'm probably not as insanely strong as most male climbers out there (something to keep in mind.)
I'm not quite ready to actually lead HVS but when I do so I'd like to onsight my first one so want to keep a few good ones in store and not go 'accidently' seconding them first. So what would you recommend?
I'm not quite ready to actually lead HVS but when I do so I'd like to onsight my first one so want to keep a few good ones in store and not go 'accidently' seconding them first. So what would you recommend?
In reply to Aurelie:
Tower Face. That's was my first grit HVS and it was awesome. Unlike the still enjoyable but overrated Knights Move.
(Stanage and Burbage respectively)
Tower Face. That's was my first grit HVS and it was awesome. Unlike the still enjoyable but overrated Knights Move.
(Stanage and Burbage respectively)
In reply to Aurelie: todys wall was my first, fairly straightforward if your tall
In reply to Big Steve: 49 Bikinis, Stanage popular.
In reply to ClimberEd:
But Tower Face has an extremely tricksy, thin, (and I think badly protected ... can't quite remember) start, unless you sidle in from the right. Then, as you say, brilliant.
Avalanche Wall at Curbar is a good first grit HVS. No pushover, but well protected, and certainly quite low in the grade.
But Tower Face has an extremely tricksy, thin, (and I think badly protected ... can't quite remember) start, unless you sidle in from the right. Then, as you say, brilliant.
Avalanche Wall at Curbar is a good first grit HVS. No pushover, but well protected, and certainly quite low in the grade.
In reply to Aurelie:
Chequer's Buttress, Froggatt. Well protected, not stenuous. There is a long reach to a good hold, but this can be overcome with technical cunning as well as brute length!
Chequer's Buttress, Froggatt. Well protected, not stenuous. There is a long reach to a good hold, but this can be overcome with technical cunning as well as brute length!
In reply to Aurelie:
I'd second the suggestion of Chequer's Buttress. Lots of gear, decent rest before the crux (which is supposed to be much easier if you can reach!), soft touch but definitely HVS and thus unlikely to be downgraded. While you're at Froggatt you could also do Tody's Wall which is just about HVS thanks to its memorable crux. Avalanche Wall is pretty good and also fairly soft touch. Lyon's Corner House Direct at Millstone is quite technical rather than thuggy, with good gear, and Bond Street is supposed to be fairly steady if you can jam.
Can't really recommend any other reachy ones as they're the ones I tend to avoid!
I'd second the suggestion of Chequer's Buttress. Lots of gear, decent rest before the crux (which is supposed to be much easier if you can reach!), soft touch but definitely HVS and thus unlikely to be downgraded. While you're at Froggatt you could also do Tody's Wall which is just about HVS thanks to its memorable crux. Avalanche Wall is pretty good and also fairly soft touch. Lyon's Corner House Direct at Millstone is quite technical rather than thuggy, with good gear, and Bond Street is supposed to be fairly steady if you can jam.
Can't really recommend any other reachy ones as they're the ones I tend to avoid!
In reply to Aurelie: Todys wall at froggatt is nice and safe with an obvious crux at 13 height. If you want a really easy hvs try bilberry cake at burbage north. slabby, short and feels like a severe. If youve climbed plenty of VS's you'll have probably climbed stuff harder than these two.
In reply to climbingpixie:
I agree, Chequers Buttress is not hard for the lanky (how did you find it?) and well protected (Swanage VS!) but not strenuous.
Scott
I agree, Chequers Buttress is not hard for the lanky (how did you find it?) and well protected (Swanage VS!) but not strenuous.
Scott
In reply to Aurelie: the sloth, the roaches. i'm gonna have a go for the first time tommorrow if ya up for it aurelie?
In reply to scott titt:
I still found it fairly soft for HVS but the crux felt about 5b and a bit tenuous, involving matching hands on a sloping break whilst rocking over. Would've obviously felt a lot tougher without the bombproof gear in close proximity. Ace route and one of my Froggatt favourites
I still found it fairly soft for HVS but the crux felt about 5b and a bit tenuous, involving matching hands on a sloping break whilst rocking over. Would've obviously felt a lot tougher without the bombproof gear in close proximity. Ace route and one of my Froggatt favourites
In reply to climbingpixie:
Surprised Knights Move has not been tipped.
I found Croton Oil pizza pish.
Chequers Buttress as above is safe and not too 'ard.
The Stanage 2* ones - Eliminator, Paucity, Cave Arete - are all honest.
Surprised Knights Move has not been tipped.
I found Croton Oil pizza pish.
Chequers Buttress as above is safe and not too 'ard.
The Stanage 2* ones - Eliminator, Paucity, Cave Arete - are all honest.
In reply to Owen W-G:
Cave arete is a good call for a reachy one.
Further afield you might try Brant Direct down the pass or Merlin Direct at Tremadoc.
> (In reply to climbingpixie)
Cave Arete - are all honest.Cave arete is a good call for a reachy one.
Further afield you might try Brant Direct down the pass or Merlin Direct at Tremadoc.
In reply to SC:
I see what you did there.
> (In reply to Aurelie)
>
> Three pebble slab. Good solid HVS.
>
> Three pebble slab. Good solid HVS.
I see what you did there.
In reply to Aurelie:
The biggest obsticle I have found to not pushing your grade is not pushing your grade. For years I could never break into the world of E1 and then suddenly it dawned on me that the reason for this was because I wasn't trying any E1s.
My advice would therefore be that you are never ready for the next grade unless you give it a go. Many will give you advice on which soft touch HVS to try first but at the end of the day, an HVS is an HVS and you know if you have cheated by climbing a tough VS that recently got upgraded. Wander up and down a crag and pick your line. HVS isn't that hard on the grand scale of things and if you pick a gritstone crag, you will be able to see everything the climb has to offer you before you set out. So you can avoid blank slabs or juggy overhangs if required.
Good luck and just go for it.
> I'm not quite ready to actually lead HVS
The biggest obsticle I have found to not pushing your grade is not pushing your grade. For years I could never break into the world of E1 and then suddenly it dawned on me that the reason for this was because I wasn't trying any E1s.
My advice would therefore be that you are never ready for the next grade unless you give it a go. Many will give you advice on which soft touch HVS to try first but at the end of the day, an HVS is an HVS and you know if you have cheated by climbing a tough VS that recently got upgraded. Wander up and down a crag and pick your line. HVS isn't that hard on the grand scale of things and if you pick a gritstone crag, you will be able to see everything the climb has to offer you before you set out. So you can avoid blank slabs or juggy overhangs if required.
Good luck and just go for it.
In reply to SC:
... You Muppet.
Having watched a friend climb Three Pebble Slab as his first E1 solo I must say thanks but no thanks.
... You Muppet.
Having watched a friend climb Three Pebble Slab as his first E1 solo I must say thanks but no thanks.
In reply to Jon Dittman:
Thanks! Really sound advice. My first VS had the adrenaline pumping for days beforehand, and me repeating the moves in my head, but once I committed to it it felt easy and smooth. Such an awesome feeling ^^
Thanks! Really sound advice. My first VS had the adrenaline pumping for days beforehand, and me repeating the moves in my head, but once I committed to it it felt easy and smooth. Such an awesome feeling ^^
In reply to Aurelie:
I'll confirm that Tody's and Chequers Buttress both make excellent first HVS's having broken into the grade on them last Thursday. In fact I led 3 HVSs with Sunset Slab being the first.
I'd also back up what Jon said - if you don't try you don't know.
I'll confirm that Tody's and Chequers Buttress both make excellent first HVS's having broken into the grade on them last Thursday. In fact I led 3 HVSs with Sunset Slab being the first.
I'd also back up what Jon said - if you don't try you don't know.
In reply to MttSnr:
And if you're scouse, it's no contest.
> (In reply to Aurelie)
>
> Manchester United at Stanage. If you're tall, its a path.
>
> Manchester United at Stanage. If you're tall, its a path.
And if you're scouse, it's no contest.
In reply to Aurelie:
Another vote for Cave Arete. Well protected, one long stretch for a positive hold. I'm 5'7" and managed to stretch for a slightly less good hold, so any taller than that and you should be fine.
I wouldn't recommend Tower Face, in terms of confidence-inspiring gear before the crux.
Another vote for Cave Arete. Well protected, one long stretch for a positive hold. I'm 5'7" and managed to stretch for a slightly less good hold, so any taller than that and you should be fine.
I wouldn't recommend Tower Face, in terms of confidence-inspiring gear before the crux.
In reply to Aurelie: Ratline at birchen has a long reach and the crux was protected, but after that there is no gear. it's been down graded from E1 5b to HVS 5b which felt about right if you can reach the hold. But again as a first HVS you can't go to wrong with Tody's Wall - plus you always end up with an audience because it can be really entertaining.
In reply to Aurelie:
If you want Peak grit, reachy, safe and not to hard or powerful at the grade then as others have said:
Chequers buttress, Froggat - Excelent, meets all your criteria
Tody's wall, Froggat - One move wonder but otherwise ideal
Lancaster wall, Stanage - Ideal, good but escapable climbing
VS/HVS... there's not a lot between them if you're in the right mood. Just go for it and surprise yourself. Most of the suggestions can be protected better than your average sport route.
jk
If you want Peak grit, reachy, safe and not to hard or powerful at the grade then as others have said:
Chequers buttress, Froggat - Excelent, meets all your criteria
Tody's wall, Froggat - One move wonder but otherwise ideal
Lancaster wall, Stanage - Ideal, good but escapable climbing
VS/HVS... there's not a lot between them if you're in the right mood. Just go for it and surprise yourself. Most of the suggestions can be protected better than your average sport route.
jk
In reply to Aurelie:
After various failed attempts on assorted HVSs, I did Knight's Move. Good route.
The final reach on Lancaster Wall defeated me (or my mind?), but you may not find it a problem if you're tall. As jk says, it's easily escapable.
After various failed attempts on assorted HVSs, I did Knight's Move. Good route.
The final reach on Lancaster Wall defeated me (or my mind?), but you may not find it a problem if you're tall. As jk says, it's easily escapable.
In reply to Aurelie:
Great North Road at Millstone is well protected and quite forgiving, it is not as sustained as suggested despite its length. Climb Great Harry at Lawrencefield first as a warm up then run across the road and do GNR. Bond St is ok if you are confident at jamming, if not, its a pumpy nightmare.
Great North Road at Millstone is well protected and quite forgiving, it is not as sustained as suggested despite its length. Climb Great Harry at Lawrencefield first as a warm up then run across the road and do GNR. Bond St is ok if you are confident at jamming, if not, its a pumpy nightmare.
In reply to Aurelie:
another good hvs if you are tall might be 'right hand tower' at stanage , well protected by cams and has the advantage of being away from crowds with lots of other good routes close by...
another good hvs if you are tall might be 'right hand tower' at stanage , well protected by cams and has the advantage of being away from crowds with lots of other good routes close by...
In reply to Owen W-G:
looks like i'm out voted here then. Still think GNR is very reaonable for the grade, you can bridge out and get some good rests and there is really only one 5a move , which has good gear to protect it.
How about Plexity.
looks like i'm out voted here then. Still think GNR is very reaonable for the grade, you can bridge out and get some good rests and there is really only one 5a move , which has good gear to protect it.
How about Plexity.
In reply to Aurelie:
My first HVS was the The Fang at Tremadog. It went rapidly downhill when I traversed to the right (following a line of chalk) to find myself on the crux of the first pitch of Extraction. At this point I fell off, and was stopped after a while by a large hex in a parallel-sided crack. After consideration, and armed with more information, I managed the first pitch without further incident. The second pitch was traumatic, because I only possessed three wires, only one of which would fit anywhere. Retreat soon ceased to be an option (well actually, it ceased to be an option as soon as I left the stance). However, once on the top, I found myself with knew-found wisdom and the confidence to do more at the grade.
It was also an experience that I don't seem to have found time to forget! Go for it - pick something that you think you might actually enjoy, so that any struggling is offset by some enjoyment too.
My first HVS was the The Fang at Tremadog. It went rapidly downhill when I traversed to the right (following a line of chalk) to find myself on the crux of the first pitch of Extraction. At this point I fell off, and was stopped after a while by a large hex in a parallel-sided crack. After consideration, and armed with more information, I managed the first pitch without further incident. The second pitch was traumatic, because I only possessed three wires, only one of which would fit anywhere. Retreat soon ceased to be an option (well actually, it ceased to be an option as soon as I left the stance). However, once on the top, I found myself with knew-found wisdom and the confidence to do more at the grade.
It was also an experience that I don't seem to have found time to forget! Go for it - pick something that you think you might actually enjoy, so that any struggling is offset by some enjoyment too.
In reply to nniff:
A good story, but i think that if you are pushing your grade,
identifying a route which you can climb smoothly and safely, will boost confidence and allow you to assess your own capacity to climb at this grade.
A good story, but i think that if you are pushing your grade,
identifying a route which you can climb smoothly and safely, will boost confidence and allow you to assess your own capacity to climb at this grade.
In reply to Pilch:
I tend to be with you on this. The fact that GNR is an inspirational line, is well protected and has no real vices makes (fair at mid grade HVS 5a) it not a bad choice. OK its sustained by grit standards but only the same length as most limestone routes.
I tend to be with you on this. The fact that GNR is an inspirational line, is well protected and has no real vices makes (fair at mid grade HVS 5a) it not a bad choice. OK its sustained by grit standards but only the same length as most limestone routes.
In reply to Aurelie:
My votes go to
Right Hand Tower - Not strenuous, just bring big cams.
Mayday at Millstones HVS 5a - short and sweet.
Svelt at Millstone - A slab followed by a short wall.
Scoop Face at Castle Naze.
Tody's Wall - well protected crux.
I would avoid Bond Streent and GNR as both being a bit strenuous.
Also why not try some VS 5a climbs as I found this a great way to get used to HVS climbing.
Sulu at Yarncliffe and Tyrone at Lawrencefiedl - both ff these are listed as HVS in some guides and both are great experience .
same goes for great harry at Lawrencefield.
My votes go to
Right Hand Tower - Not strenuous, just bring big cams.
Mayday at Millstones HVS 5a - short and sweet.
Svelt at Millstone - A slab followed by a short wall.
Scoop Face at Castle Naze.
Tody's Wall - well protected crux.
I would avoid Bond Streent and GNR as both being a bit strenuous.
Also why not try some VS 5a climbs as I found this a great way to get used to HVS climbing.
Sulu at Yarncliffe and Tyrone at Lawrencefiedl - both ff these are listed as HVS in some guides and both are great experience .
same goes for great harry at Lawrencefield.
In reply to Aurelie:
Still surprised more people haven't said Knight's Move - I thought it a really nice route. Also Meringue at Lawrencefield, a bit short but pleasant (if you like slabby/technical as opposed to thuggery-juggery)
Still surprised more people haven't said Knight's Move - I thought it a really nice route. Also Meringue at Lawrencefield, a bit short but pleasant (if you like slabby/technical as opposed to thuggery-juggery)
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...