UKC

NEWS: Sharma - Two F8c Onsights This Week

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 Jack Geldard 24 Sep 2008
A report on SuperTopo states that Chris Sharma has onsighted two impressive F8c routes this week.

"So, this past week Chris shows up for some climbing at Maple Canyon and proceeds to first onsight T-Rex (14b) and then over the weekend to onsight Devine Fury (14b)...."

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=09&year=2008#n45334
 mattjam 24 Sep 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Legend
 James Oswald 24 Sep 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Amazing!
 The sharp end 24 Sep 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Wow!
 JLS 24 Sep 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Golly!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: The guy has talent! Well done Chris!
 Michael Ryan 24 Sep 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

"We got word from Chuck Odette via Joe Kinder that Chris Sharma visited Maple last weekend. He didn't just do well- he onsighted two of the hardest routes there, without any trickery, beta or kneepads.

Here's what Chuck had to say:

"I was in Maple on Sat. when Chris "on sighted" Devine Fury (14b). Took him 23-24 minutes to do the route. He had to YELL a lot to get through the crux which I'm guessing he made 14c or 14d by missing the "approved" sequences with no knee bars, scums or even drop knees.
Pretty much straight on one-armed his way through the crux section mid-way out. "

http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&am...
Eric_at_PetzlUSA 25 Sep 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Check out photos of Chris on Divine Fury here:

http://petzlcrew.petzlteam.com/index.php/post/2008/09/24/Chris-Sharmas-stra...
 UKB Shark 25 Sep 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: by missing the "approved" sequences with no knee bars, scums or even drop knees.


What are scums ?
TimS 25 Sep 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:
>
> What are scums ?

Toe hooks in U.S parlance I think.
magnus 25 Sep 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

"by missing the "approved" sequences with no knee bars, scums or even drop knees. Pretty much straight on one-armed his way through the crux section mid-way out"

So he's got crap technique then... I'm glad it's not just me!
 The Bantam 25 Sep 2008
In reply to magnus:

Comman problem. For me a 'drop knee' is very closely followed by a drop leg, arm, body and head.

Sharma appears on fire at the moment.
 GrahamD 25 Sep 2008
In reply to The Bantam:

Yep. A healthy lifestyle living in Europe is doing him the power of good
 NearlyDutchDan 25 Sep 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) by missing the "approved" sequences with no knee bars, scums or even drop knees.
>
>
> What are scums ?

amazing whatever will they think of next, check out:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climbing_technique

Of course Scums is/are not listed... and as for knee bars/drop knees they sound like medical complaints.



 jwi 25 Sep 2008
In reply to Simon Lee: A knee-scum is when you use the friction on your knee as a hold. As for example in this photo http://www.neilgresham.com/photos/016.jpg

I recon.
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