UKC

On Wednesday the 12th November Alex Honnold climbed Gaia E8 at Black Rocks. He'd not been on the route before and had seen video footage of someone climbing Gaia in the past. Video below by Sam Whittaker of the Climbing Works.

Read more at : http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45444

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Brilliant! I thought the blurb said it took him three minutes?


Chris

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Very neat, didn't like that top sloper at first did he, then got confidence and eventually made it seem like a jug!!

Well done that man.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Excellent,getting the top right onsight is amazing.

Hope he's brushed all that chalk off afterwards.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

probably the best bit of trad climbing ive ever seen on film. amazing.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Excellent - I was nervous even though we sort of know what the outcome is going to be!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I wonder how many people will choose not to view the video for fear of blowing a future on-sight?

What a stunning route; definitive slopey gritstone wierdness.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Astonishing. Yeah this has been well filmed several times before but its another thing to feel holds for yourself. Brilliant links to clips like these are one reason that uk climbing is such a great site

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Astonishing. Yeah this has been well filmed several times before but its another thing to feel holds for yourself. Brilliant, links to clips like these are one reason that uk climbing is such a great site

In reply to sutty:
Yes, very styling. Nice understated top-out, too. No adolescent whooping and screaming either, always the sign of someone in control and content with themselves! (Ahem, over-analysis warning...)

In reply to Jon Read:

Now if I had been on the route it would have been on sight with no knowledge of the route apart from Alex's picture of a falling climber. I thought he was copping out by going right at the top, thinking the route went straight up!!

Direct finish anyone. Would it go?

In reply to sutty:


Yes. http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=10785

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Alex repeated The New Statesman, E8 7a at Ilkley yesterday.

In reply to Mini:

I wonder if Alex will go back to try that now?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Wow, so impressive-he was so smooth and considered, it really looked like a very controlled lead-well done alex, and cheers for the footage Sam and UKC, keep up the good work.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Brilliant ascent, notice the lack of toe hook before moving hands to the top? WOW!!

In reply to Chris Craggs:

>"the blurb said it took him three minutes?"

Alex breezed his way up the route in a time of just over three minutes.

http://www.climbmagazine.com/gaiaonsight.aspx

David Simmonite's watch must need a new battery.

In reply to JLS: maybe he subtracted all those superfluous dips into the chalk bag?b

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I don't fully understand why, even though I know he flashed it, I found myself getting tense watching that.

Awesome.

In reply to sutty:
Charlie Woodburn did it E9 7a and you will hit the ground!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
That was awesome!!
IS there sound or is it my comp!?!?

In reply to james oswald:

In reply to Mini:

Missed the boat, James?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
are either of these boys planning on onsighting indian face before they go home? & if they are, where can i buy tickets?

In reply to petestack:
Yes
Hehe
However i have been away so i think that's a fair excuse :P

In reply to Bret (rock god):


Unlikely; Indian Face is a very different sort of proposition. I suspect that they'd also approach Birkett/McLeod testpieces much more cautiously. They do seem to have got gritstone well dialled though

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: bit off topic but has anyone else seen the video with this man climbing an offwidth in indian creek on the black diamond website. Now that is a man with good composure.

well done to him

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Is there no gear in the crack which Alex laybacks up at 34 seconds. Looks like there could be in the pic? Or is it merely decieving making it look like there is?

In reply to james oswald:


Do you think that everyone from Dawes onwards might not have noticed if there was extra placements there? For an easier comparison do Sunset Slab at Froggat. It kind of looks like there should be something there, but as many thousands of nervous onsighters have found out - there isn't.