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Alex Honnold, one of the visiting American climbers, currently rampaging across the Peak District, has continued his gritstone demolition with an impressive on-sight solo of the classic E5 finger crack London Wall at Millstone and an on-sight ascent of Masters Edge (E7 6b), also at Millstone.
Read more: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45459
Read more: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45459
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Phenomenal!!! Were they recorded!
Is that the first onsight of masters edge?
Phenomenal!!! Were they recorded!
Is that the first onsight of masters edge?
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
I wonder if they'll have a go at Equilibrium.....
I wonder if they'll have a go at Equilibrium.....
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: it just gets better and better
In reply to james oswald: Would have thought they have at least had a look at it? They really have taken the grit by the short and curlies. Can't wait for the video (although maybe it will all look too easy?).
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
The onsight solo of London Wall is one of the finest things they did this trip. Up there with the solo of Wellington Crack!
The onsight solo of London Wall is one of the finest things they did this trip. Up there with the solo of Wellington Crack!
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Are they both firsts? The onsight of MW ann the onsight SOLO of LW, I Mean?
Are they both firsts? The onsight of MW ann the onsight SOLO of LW, I Mean?
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Welly Crack is piss compared to London Wall. I expect Moonlight Butress harder still.
Welly Crack is piss compared to London Wall. I expect Moonlight Butress harder still.
In reply to Simon Lee:
I wonder if he cleaned the gravel off the top of LW first!
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
>
> Welly Crack is piss compared to London Wall. I expect Moonlight Butress harder still.
>
> Welly Crack is piss compared to London Wall. I expect Moonlight Butress harder still.
I wonder if he cleaned the gravel off the top of LW first!
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
London Wall onsight solo. Now that is impressive! I almost can't quite digest it, knowing how those last moves are so insecure.
However, having been sat at the belay on The Rostrum in Yosemite and watching Alex solo past me whilst chatting and handing out beta then nothing that he does surprises me so much any more. Hands down the most impressive and competent climber I've ever witnesses firsthand and probably ever will.
London Wall onsight solo. Now that is impressive! I almost can't quite digest it, knowing how those last moves are so insecure.
However, having been sat at the belay on The Rostrum in Yosemite and watching Alex solo past me whilst chatting and handing out beta then nothing that he does surprises me so much any more. Hands down the most impressive and competent climber I've ever witnesses firsthand and probably ever will.
In reply to james oswald: no it was onsighted by james mchaffie wasn't it?
Onsight solo of london wall? That's just gobsmacking. someone get these lads back here in the summer when the big crags are dry.
Onsight solo of london wall? That's just gobsmacking. someone get these lads back here in the summer when the big crags are dry.
That's phenomenal! Really inspiring.
I'll bet it was a laugh compared to Moonlight Butress.
I'll bet it was a laugh compared to Moonlight Butress.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: os solo of london wall is in my eyes the most impresive climb of his trip here.
In reply to mark s: 2nd that
In reply to mark s:
I think that seems to be the consensus, but does anyone know if it's been done before?
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC) os solo of london wall is in my eyes the most impresive climb of his trip here.
I think that seems to be the consensus, but does anyone know if it's been done before?
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: does anybody know if these ascents are going to be in a video? I cant think of a better climbing video with all these ascents
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Maybe he should try and onsight an E9?
Maybe he should try and onsight an E9?
In reply to Silum:
I know some have been filmed. They will probably end up on Momentum Video Magazine soon.
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC) does anybody know if these ascents are going to be in a video? I cant think of a better climbing video with all these ascents
I know some have been filmed. They will probably end up on Momentum Video Magazine soon.
In reply to Adam Lincoln: sweet
In reply to Silum:
Excuse my ignorance having not climbed London Wall but it is 25/7a+/7b isn't it and that is not particularly difficult these days if you are operating well above 8a? Even for onsight solo
Excuse my ignorance having not climbed London Wall but it is 25/7a+/7b isn't it and that is not particularly difficult these days if you are operating well above 8a? Even for onsight solo
In reply to nz Cragrat:
It is if you live within a twenty file mile radius of the route
> (In reply to Silum)
>
> Excuse my ignorance having not climbed London Wall but it is 25/7a+/7b isn't it and that is not particularly difficult these days if you are operating well above 8a? Even for onsight solo
>
> Excuse my ignorance having not climbed London Wall but it is 25/7a+/7b isn't it and that is not particularly difficult these days if you are operating well above 8a? Even for onsight solo
It is if you live within a twenty file mile radius of the route
In reply to nz Cragrat:
I think its the fact that there are no real footholds on the final crack section which is the most disconcerting thing! Its not like its Sardine which is covered in footholds although an on sight solo of Sardine would also be very impressive.
> (In reply to Silum)
>
> Excuse my ignorance having not climbed London Wall but it is 25/7a+/7b isn't it and that is not particularly difficult these days if you are operating well above 8a? Even for onsight solo
>
> Excuse my ignorance having not climbed London Wall but it is 25/7a+/7b isn't it and that is not particularly difficult these days if you are operating well above 8a? Even for onsight solo
I think its the fact that there are no real footholds on the final crack section which is the most disconcerting thing! Its not like its Sardine which is covered in footholds although an on sight solo of Sardine would also be very impressive.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
The cahones and belief in ones ability to set off on London Wall on the onsight solo is something I can't quite get my head around!
Then again soloing Moonlight Buttress is out of this world.
The cahones and belief in ones ability to set off on London Wall on the onsight solo is something I can't quite get my head around!
Then again soloing Moonlight Buttress is out of this world.
In reply to Jus:
I suspect Moonlight Butrress solo is in a different league to London Wall solo - its 5.12d and 1000'+ long - London Wall is 5.12a (a guess?) and shorter!
Chris
I suspect Moonlight Butrress solo is in a different league to London Wall solo - its 5.12d and 1000'+ long - London Wall is 5.12a (a guess?) and shorter!
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs: Plus there is some really thrutchy looking climbing on Moonlight Buttress and I wouldn't want to trust Zion rock too much.
In reply to nz Cragrat: Excuse my ignorance having not climbed London Wall but it is 25/7a+/7b isn't it and that is not particularly difficult these days if you are operating well above 8a? Even for onsight solo
Be interesting to have AH's take on this. We can take it for granted that as a yank he could jam before he could crawl. By comparison I know of one Sheffield hotshot who had to be instructed how to handjam when top roping Requiem. Personally I think London Wall is the living end - I couldnt even dog the top moves - there are no footholds. Howver, Alan James thinks its a path and used to do several laps on it before breakfast - or at least that is the impression I formed...
Be interesting to have AH's take on this. We can take it for granted that as a yank he could jam before he could crawl. By comparison I know of one Sheffield hotshot who had to be instructed how to handjam when top roping Requiem. Personally I think London Wall is the living end - I couldnt even dog the top moves - there are no footholds. Howver, Alan James thinks its a path and used to do several laps on it before breakfast - or at least that is the impression I formed...
In reply to teddy:
Impressive though an on-sight solo of London Wall is, it's hardly a surprising feat for a top American crack climber! If you are good at jamming, I would imagine it's a really very secure route to solo. Sure, there are no foot holds on the top section, but the jams are solid. I suspect Alex H could reverse every move on London Wall if he didn't fancy continuing. You couldn't say that about some of the other routes he's cruised on the grit!
> (In reply to nz Cragrat)
> [...]
>
> I think its the fact that there are no real footholds on the final crack section which is the most disconcerting thing! Its not like its Sardine which is covered in footholds although an on sight solo of Sardine would also be very impressive.
> [...]
>
> I think its the fact that there are no real footholds on the final crack section which is the most disconcerting thing! Its not like its Sardine which is covered in footholds although an on sight solo of Sardine would also be very impressive.
Impressive though an on-sight solo of London Wall is, it's hardly a surprising feat for a top American crack climber! If you are good at jamming, I would imagine it's a really very secure route to solo. Sure, there are no foot holds on the top section, but the jams are solid. I suspect Alex H could reverse every move on London Wall if he didn't fancy continuing. You couldn't say that about some of the other routes he's cruised on the grit!
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Still ONSIGHTING the rather forbidding looking London Wall is not miles off his solo of MB. Of course I may be wrong if LW felt like HVS to him!
Still ONSIGHTING the rather forbidding looking London Wall is not miles off his solo of MB. Of course I may be wrong if LW felt like HVS to him!
In reply to Jus: London Wall is not miles off his solo of MB
Hmmm..
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP17/climbing-notes-wilder
Hmmm..
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP17/climbing-notes-wilder
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Agreed but Alex extensively rehearsed MB on toprope before his eventual send compared to his onsight on LW. Similar achievements in my view bearing in mind he said that MB was 'locker' all the way ie. positive jams.
> (In reply to Jus)
>
> I suspect Moonlight Butrress solo is in a different league to London Wall solo - its 5.12d and 1000'+ long - London Wall is 5.12a (a guess?) and shorter!
>
>
> Chris
>
> I suspect Moonlight Butrress solo is in a different league to London Wall solo - its 5.12d and 1000'+ long - London Wall is 5.12a (a guess?) and shorter!
>
>
> Chris
Agreed but Alex extensively rehearsed MB on toprope before his eventual send compared to his onsight on LW. Similar achievements in my view bearing in mind he said that MB was 'locker' all the way ie. positive jams.
In reply to Tom Briggs: He didnt totally cruise the top section, I'd say he spent maybe 5 mins hanging around working out what to do, because he could only fit his pinkies in the crack. Extremely unpleasant to watch!
In reply to Jus:
i agree, people seem to be forgetting that part. Yea MB is harder climbing, less secue etc sure, but at least he knew that. On sighting a climb a couple grades lower than that is still mighty impressive
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> Still ONSIGHTING the rather forbidding looking London Wall is not miles off his solo of MB. Of course I may be wrong if LW felt like HVS to him!
>
> Still ONSIGHTING the rather forbidding looking London Wall is not miles off his solo of MB. Of course I may be wrong if LW felt like HVS to him!
i agree, people seem to be forgetting that part. Yea MB is harder climbing, less secue etc sure, but at least he knew that. On sighting a climb a couple grades lower than that is still mighty impressive
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Amazing!
Disregarding everything else Alex has done this trip if I had flashed Gaia, onsighted Masters Edge and onsight soloed London Wall (crazy scary, regardless of the ongoing discussion on this thread) I would be a very happy man.
These climbs, along with the ground-up of Parthian Shot fit in really nicely with the recent renewed interest this 'purer' style of climbing.
Amazing!
Disregarding everything else Alex has done this trip if I had flashed Gaia, onsighted Masters Edge and onsight soloed London Wall (crazy scary, regardless of the ongoing discussion on this thread) I would be a very happy man.
These climbs, along with the ground-up of Parthian Shot fit in really nicely with the recent renewed interest this 'purer' style of climbing.
In reply to boothy:
Millstone? Ilkley?
> (In reply to GrahamD)
>
> [...]
>
> Or a repeat of Loaded at Millstone.
>
> [...]
>
> Or a repeat of Loaded at Millstone.
Millstone? Ilkley?
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
I think it's clear what the situation calls for, and that's for someone to hop over to Bishop for six weeks, repeat all their highballs there and downgrade those....
Unfortunately I'm a bit pushed for time at the moment myself - any volunteers?
jcm
I think it's clear what the situation calls for, and that's for someone to hop over to Bishop for six weeks, repeat all their highballs there and downgrade those....
Unfortunately I'm a bit pushed for time at the moment myself - any volunteers?
jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I've stood underneath most of them, and abbed a couple of them. Most of them are font 7c+/8a/8a+ climbing in a less than comfortable distance from the ground. Think Wills Young gave them E grades a while ago. I'll see if i can find link.
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> I think it's clear what the situation calls for, and that's for someone to hop over to Bishop for six weeks, repeat all their highballs there and downgrade those....
>
> I think it's clear what the situation calls for, and that's for someone to hop over to Bishop for six weeks, repeat all their highballs there and downgrade those....
I've stood underneath most of them, and abbed a couple of them. Most of them are font 7c+/8a/8a+ climbing in a less than comfortable distance from the ground. Think Wills Young gave them E grades a while ago. I'll see if i can find link.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: i would, but....
-the weather doesnt look to go
-my tendons feel weak
-i'm more of a trad man myself
-i have an essay to finish
-it might rain
-the conditions arent very good
.....
-the weather doesnt look to go
-my tendons feel weak
-i'm more of a trad man myself
-i have an essay to finish
-it might rain
-the conditions arent very good
.....
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
People are talking as if its a peace of piss. If you’ve seen Leo Holdings footage on best forgotten art were he nearly throughs up at the top you could get some measure of this climb.
People are talking as if its a peace of piss. If you’ve seen Leo Holdings footage on best forgotten art were he nearly throughs up at the top you could get some measure of this climb.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Tons of Brits go to Bishop. In fact several were involved in the development in the late 90's/2000.
Apr 26 2007: E-grades for American Highball Boulder Problems by Mick Ryan
Some protectionless routes in the UK that were once given E-grades are now increasingly given bouldering grades, Font or V, take your pick, and are redefined as highball boulder problems - or Super Blocs to some.
In an interesting twist, Wills Young of Bishop, sent us a list of highball boulder problems around Bishop, California, that he has assigned E-grades to.
The Ninth V7 (Pollen Grains, Matt Wilder, Nov. 2005) — E6
This Side of Paradise V10 (Bardini Boulders, Matt Wilder, Nov. 2005) — E7
Flight of the Bumblebee V9 (Secrets of the Beehive Area, Kevin Jorgeson, Jan. 2007) — E8
Evilution V11/12 (Peabody Boulders, Jason Kehl, Nov. 2002) — E8
Pick of the crop is The Beautiful and the Damned V13 at the Bardini Boulders first climbed by Kevin Jorgeson this last January and given a proposed E-grade of E9. This monster got a repeat by Ethan Pringle, another American climber who is making waves like Jorgeson, both of whom Wills describes as world-class climbers.
These problems/routes are usually pre-inspected on a rope and in some cases moves are practiced.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=04&year=2007
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> I think it's clear what the situation calls for, and that's for someone to hop over to Bishop for six weeks, repeat all their highballs there and downgrade those....
>
> I think it's clear what the situation calls for, and that's for someone to hop over to Bishop for six weeks, repeat all their highballs there and downgrade those....
Tons of Brits go to Bishop. In fact several were involved in the development in the late 90's/2000.
Apr 26 2007: E-grades for American Highball Boulder Problems by Mick Ryan
Some protectionless routes in the UK that were once given E-grades are now increasingly given bouldering grades, Font or V, take your pick, and are redefined as highball boulder problems - or Super Blocs to some.
In an interesting twist, Wills Young of Bishop, sent us a list of highball boulder problems around Bishop, California, that he has assigned E-grades to.
The Ninth V7 (Pollen Grains, Matt Wilder, Nov. 2005) — E6
This Side of Paradise V10 (Bardini Boulders, Matt Wilder, Nov. 2005) — E7
Flight of the Bumblebee V9 (Secrets of the Beehive Area, Kevin Jorgeson, Jan. 2007) — E8
Evilution V11/12 (Peabody Boulders, Jason Kehl, Nov. 2002) — E8
Pick of the crop is The Beautiful and the Damned V13 at the Bardini Boulders first climbed by Kevin Jorgeson this last January and given a proposed E-grade of E9. This monster got a repeat by Ethan Pringle, another American climber who is making waves like Jorgeson, both of whom Wills describes as world-class climbers.
These problems/routes are usually pre-inspected on a rope and in some cases moves are practiced.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=04&year=2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Short interview with Alex when he returned back to America.
http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&am...
Short interview with Alex when he returned back to America.
http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&am...
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Great interview. He comes across as very humble and incredibly modest.
"But eventually it worked out, like it always does"
Now THAT is what I call self-confidence. In my eyes the guy is a legend.
Great interview. He comes across as very humble and incredibly modest.
"But eventually it worked out, like it always does"
Now THAT is what I call self-confidence. In my eyes the guy is a legend.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
That is just amazing. Totally amazing. London wall isn't the easiest route to hang around and figure the moves out on either. What a guy.
That is just amazing. Totally amazing. London wall isn't the easiest route to hang around and figure the moves out on either. What a guy.
In reply to Shani:
Further insight in to the Honnold
Solo, Part I: Alex Honnold
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/wfeature-solo-honnold
Further insight in to the Honnold
Solo, Part I: Alex Honnold
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/wfeature-solo-honnold
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Personally I find this one of THE most amazing climbing feats of all time! I know many people who have flashed LW, I know many people who have soloed E5 onsight and soloed E6 and above. I know few who would venture up LW onsight-solo.
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> That is just amazing. Totally amazing. London wall isn't the easiest route to hang around and figure the moves out on either. What a guy.
>
> That is just amazing. Totally amazing. London wall isn't the easiest route to hang around and figure the moves out on either. What a guy.
Personally I find this one of THE most amazing climbing feats of all time! I know many people who have flashed LW, I know many people who have soloed E5 onsight and soloed E6 and above. I know few who would venture up LW onsight-solo.
In reply to Shani: exactly. It's hard 6a, some say 6b, with little rest on steep terain, solo?! on paper it doesn't sound too impressive, but it's probably equivalent to E7 to solo.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
It is interesting that on the IF interview, Dawes conceives of 'running down the slab' if he fell. Now this is unlikely to save you from dying on IF, but mentally gives you a plan B - albeit a bloody marginal one.
On LW, if you pop off there is no plan B - and that is one nasty landing.
It is interesting that on the IF interview, Dawes conceives of 'running down the slab' if he fell. Now this is unlikely to save you from dying on IF, but mentally gives you a plan B - albeit a bloody marginal one.
On LW, if you pop off there is no plan B - and that is one nasty landing.
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