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NEW ARTICLE: Dreadnought (E3 5c) in 1969 by Frank Cannings

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 Jack Geldard 23 Nov 2008
Dreadnought (E3 5c) in 1969, by Frank Cannings

"John Cox's excellent account of his gripping epic on Dreadnought at Berry Head reminded me of the early days on The Old Reboubt and of our initial eventful forays across the traverse above the Great Cave to the hanging belay..."

“Dreadnought .. must have had them seriously considering that they were in over their heads, after a huge chunk of rock fell away (containing the greater part of their belay). Cannings recalled that they were left hanging (nose to nose) from a dubious and solitary peg..."


Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1453
 Kafoozalem 23 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Wow those guys were nails. It is wonderful to see the old photographs and learn how these routes were done. I wonder if we can tempt other pioneers out of the woodwork to share their reminiscences and photographs at UKC.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 23 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Excellent stuff - heroes one and all!

Chris
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Great photos and history - thanks.

The one I always wanted to read is the one referred to in hard Rock and called 'My God Have I Got To Do That', describing an early ascent/attempt. Shamefully I can neither remember the name of the author nor be bothered to go downstairs and check. Anyone got that one?

jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

John Hammond, I remind myself. Rocksport January 1970 - anyone??

jcm
 Andy2 24 Nov 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: John, I could probably find a copy and scan it for you, but not before next weekend. It's an excellent article - "...I had failed on the greatest route of my life. I was overjoyed."
 Mick Ward 24 Nov 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> John Hammond, I remind myself. Rocksport January 1970...

A lovely article.

Mick



 duncan 25 Nov 2008
In reply to Frank Cannings:

Great photos and very impressive climbing, especially in those trousers.

I wondered if Emo had reached Devon 40 years early, but then remembered this guy: http://tinyurl.com/5toza5
 Frank Cannings 28 Nov 2008
In reply to duncan:

I gather those Emo skinny trousers are normally worn with a studded or spiked belt, a pretentious asymmetrical haircut, and a gaze of apathetic angst on the face of the wearer, none of which applied to us I hope!

The jeans worn in those days had a tendency to shrink and those in the photos are simply a result of pioneering Deep Water Soloing!

Bob Dylan's drainpipe trousers could explain the high notes on some of his earlier songs (On Desolation Row he sings about "sniffing drainpipes"). But did you notice his shoes? - also historic climbing gear - as worn by Al Harris on Zukator ("anything Crew can climb I can second in winklepickers").
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I believe by old friend Mark Springett accompanied Cannings and Biven on a new route on the Old Reboubt in about 1968 and he borrowed my one and only bong for the route.I had purchased it specially for the first pitch of the West Face of the Great Zawn where we did the 6th ascent in 1967, a much better way than with the wooden wedges we had used some time earlier.(see Rocksport October 1968).Great times, great people, real climbers!

Steve

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