UKC

Was a very good weekend in the Northern Corries. Saturday everything was nicely hoared up and not too much snow, we did Belhaven which was in great condition. Originally we had wanted to go over into Loch Avon basin, but it took as ages to get up the ski road due to icy conditions. A cold, but great day, -6 at the carpark in the afternoon.

Sunday was much warmer (-1 at the car park), but wild and windy, full on white out conditions on the top. It had deposited quite a lot of snow overnight, too. Did the Messenger on the Mess of Pottage. More teams out today then yesterday, despite the minging weather!

In reply to Heike:

I was really surprised by how few folk were out on Sat.
Sounds like you had a great weekend, nice to prove the nay-sayers wrong every nowand again about conditions!

My 2p:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=330159

In reply to Heike:

Couldn't be bothered with the 20 minute drive from Aviemore...! Might go out on Tuesday if it's cold calm and sunny though. Did you come across much old neve on the routes or on the plateau? ;-0

In reply to Ron Walker:
Found a couple of neve patches on the goat track and the plateau on Saturday, don't think I would have found them today - all buried now.

20 min from Aviemore...took an hour an half from Dalwhinnie this morning....

In reply to hindu:

I quite like the naysayers, leave's the corrie quieter for us !!! Looks like you had a good day, too.

In reply to Heike:

Typical, I move out to Canada and Scotland gets good early winter conditions!

Always wanted to do Belhaven but the Message is a great climb.

In reply to Removed User:

oops, just noticed you did "the Messanger" still, all good stuff.

In reply to Removed User:

Do you actualy live in Canada now - how did you manage that?

In reply to Heike:

Pretty hard move on The Messenger, pushing technical 7? What did you think?

In reply to Ron Walker:

Yes. Moved out here last January. Ended up in Saskatchewan (Due to the type of work I do) which has limited climbing but great X country skiing, some downhill, plenty of back country hiking, snow shoeing and canoeing and the rockies are a very easy (as in set cruise control and go) 6 hrs away.

In reply to Removed User:

Quite amazing how the world has shrunk with internet forums. I assume Jim H is still in Newtonmore? No doubt we'll get somebody from an ice breaker in the south pole or from the international space station next...!

Cheers Ron

In reply to Andy Nisbet:

I thought it was quite hard, not much for your feet. But very enjoyable!

In reply to Ron Walker:

Aye, it is a small world now, just the time difference to deal with. Jim is still in Newtonmore and I would expect has been out climbing as soon as conditions have allowed.

In reply to Removed User:

Haven't seen Jim post here for a while but rest assured he is climbing as much as ever. Proximity of routes to a real ale pub remains a priority for 'Faither'.

Davie (residing in Bermuda but still jealous of those able to winter climb in Scotland)

In reply to Wee Davie:
..... but still jealous of those able to winter climb in Scotland)

And me

In reply to Wee Davie:

You staying there now?

In reply to Wee Davie:

Better keep it a secret or we will have queues of folk in Bermuda shorts wanting to go DWS and winter climbing around Loch Avon and Loch Etchacan..!!! Last time I saw you was with Burnsie after Fluted Buttress Direct...

Your going to say you miss Glasgow next!

In reply to Ron Walker:

>Your going to say you miss Glasgow next!

Not yet!
The Bermuda thing is temporary- probably for another couple of years.
Plenty of new routing to get done in the meantime....
It's good out here but the closest you get to mountains is about 60m above sea level.
And, the weather can be less than brilliant as well sometimes.
Me and Dr Evil were baltic cragging today in 65 degree temps. Once you're acclimatised to warm weather anything less than 75 feels like the ice age!

In reply to Removed User:

Hey Bob,

How's Saskatchewan a year on? Calgary has been Chinook-bound again over the weekend, which is probably a good thing as there is some really nasty ice on the minor roads around us - half an inch thick and polished up.

Over beyond Canmore I hear that quite a bit of stuff at IV and above is in, but I'm waiting a couple more weeks before trying to get out. The addicts have been climbing for 8 weeks already! If you're coming up my way and fancy climbing then drop me an email via the site? I have some new tools to play with.....

Cheers
Joe.

In reply to Heike:

Was on Mess of Pottage also on Sat and did Honeypot which was in excellent condition, plastered in new snow and well hoared up. Several other teams on the cliff around the Haston Line area but difficult to see in the murk.

Is there much turf left on Belhaven nowadays ?

In reply to ashand26:

Not a lot in the groove proper, it's quite tenuous the climbing. Very interesting. On the last 10 metres where it get's easier there is some turf let.

In reply to Snorkers:

I aim to get out there soon and I'll give you a shout then.

In reply to Heike: We did this last year on a very stormy day. My mate led the main pitch so maybe i found it well hard as you do sometimes when not on the sharp end but i thought it was very high in the grade.

In reply to Removed User:

Great - look forward to it.

In reply to ashand26:

How is Honeypot, say in comparison with The Message?

In reply to jazzyjackson: Thin start, perhaps hardest moves, a liittle balancy traverse right and then a steady couple of pitches of tech 4 through a little chimney, come gully, and pretty straightforward up the wider open chimney at the top. The crux at the top of this chimney is steep, one hard pull through the overhang, but with good gear just about head height to the left. All in all a good route, I found the first pitch of opening break harder, but then that was under powder. Haven't done the message. I also thought the seam was harder.

In reply to Heike:
Pictures and a report from today at
http://www.highmountaineering.com/

James e

In reply to James Edwards:

Looks good and keep em coming. Let me know anytime you want a spelling lesson in Gaelic

In reply to James Edwards: Take it the old grade for escapologist is nearer the mark. Spoke to Pete about doing this early last year, he said Graham thought it was graded for ice. Don't want to get sandbagged!

Thought Fiacail buttress was a nice wee romp.

In reply to Donald M:
Yes, sorry about that, i never seem to have the guidebook to hand. You know it would be easier if we just changed it all to English! 'Fear-cul', what do you reckon?! I'm thinking of writing an article to Scottish Mountaineer to explaind my proposal.

Will, wouldn't give the overall Grade of VI as that would be silly, but without ice in the back blind corner it is technically desperate. iv,7 or there abouts. But i don't know for sure as I used aid as it started raining and Pete was a bit miserable in his softshell so hard to say what the grade is. I may have missed some obvious hook, i only needed one good one to reach easy ground but the whole thing was buried under a foot of rime and we had to get a move on.
James e

In reply to James Edwards:

Fiacaill Buttress does ice up quite thickly but not often. Because being east facing, it can get drifted in with snow. It then escapes the worst of the thawing winds. Jailbreak is an example, old IV and climbed when icy despite the first ascentionists's denials, now VII,7. And Alan Mullin thought VIII,7 under powder. When I freed Smokestack Lighnin', it was very icy - better climbers than me have failed to free it

In reply to James Edwards: i did escapologist a while ago and was amazed how easy it was, no ice at all. where you off route? it climbs to the left of men in black yeah? I dont have the guidebook handy

In reply to Andy Nisbet: I still think Houdini under powder is the hardest route Ive done in the N Corries and probably the best

In reply to James Edwards:
Quote' But i don't know for sure as I used aid as it started raining and Pete was a bit miserable in his softshell so hard to say what the grade is.'

Thats a cracker James, i'll have to remember that excuse next time i can't do a move on a route!

Pete

In reply to jazzyjackson:

Difficult start, prob is technical crux but gear is good. Good steady climbing up to the final bulge on P3, then a strenuous pull up and round. I found this harder than the Message and a better route overall.

In reply to Andy Nisbet:
That all makes sence. I've realised that i have actually climbed Escapologist in the late 90's (i thought i remembered the jump for the turf). I think that the corner must have had ice in it then as i don't remember having any difficulty of note.
Blair and Es climbed Jailbreak shortly after Alan (they clipped his copper head below the crux) probably also under powder and thought that it was very insecure.
James

In reply to James Edwards: jump for turf? I dont remember a jump! describe the line you took. We where close to the corner of men in black at one point and i was tempted to climb it (it was before it had been done)

In reply to Erik B:
You are taller than me Erik!
From the point where you can go right into men in black you go left for maybe 5 to 8m till you come to a ledge with a big boulder/pedistal on it which you step off (or jump) to reach a legde of turf. from this ledge (V shaped with a wall on either side and the blind corner at the back) its about 3m to easy ground. I couldn't find anything in the corner so i aided up a crack i found under all the rime on the left wall to get to the easy ground.
Sound familiar?
p.s. Gareth is up and about for climbing, iv'e got to take my lad to his appointments for the next couple of days so can't climb with him, maybe you can?
Right, i really must get to work!
James

In reply to James Edwards: yeah we went left at the point you can go right into men in black, dont remember any difficulties or ice, think we thought IV despite it being in the guide as a VI.

where is gareth staying these days?

In reply to Erik B:
I think he was at Blair's and the Raiburn hut. he may come to mine if the NW comes good but i'm not free till Sunday.
I may have missed something really really obvious under all the rime as i didn't want to waste time standing there hacking it all off to look, but as it is only 3m it seems silly to change it from IV,
Remember as well Erik, you are a rampaging viking warrior when you get the bit between your teeth so no wonder that you found it easy
(actually i bet you climbed it no bother as you were fuming at Geoffreys braying below you and wanted to get down and give a piece of you mind!)

In reply to ashand26:

thanks for that, looking forward to trying it. You readin this Jimbob?

In reply to jazzyjackson:
yip it sounds fun.
not as many stars in the guide as the message
but the same grade so can't be much harder or easyer
and still makes it in to the select guide with a star