In reply to Dilys the Dachshund:
Good thread. The articles I have read by him really stick in the mind but are quite hard to come by. There was a good one in Alpinist a few years ago about climbing a low level gully in Nepal. Several well known alpinists have mentioned the following article as inspirational to them:
The Art of Suffering, Mountain 1988, May/June,No 121
I've never managed to track it down. Anyone know if there is copy on the web somewhere that doesn't come up on Google or alternative sources (or sell me an old copy!!)?