UKC

I saw a short film at KMFF about the Polish climber Vortech (Vorteck?) Kurtyka. He struck me as incredibly charismatic and I thought he was interesting so I'd really like to know more about him.
I was wondering if anyone knows if he has written anything or if there are other films about him?
I have already had a look online but can't seem to find anything further. My Polish isn't really good enough to search Polish sites...
Thanks

In reply to Dilys the Dachshund: Not sure where you looked but Google found this in a few seconds
http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,490,0,3,climbers.html

In reply to Doug: Gah, I'm having a bad day with google I think!

In reply to Dilys the Dachshund:

Might be worth following up on those references in Doug's link. (Alpine club library?) I remember his article, Broken English in Mountain. Apparently Dirty Alex (MacIntyre) had given him a tape of Marianne Faithfull's album, Broken English. It's very edgy stuff, a brilliant comeback after years of terrible heroin abuse. Alex handed it to him and said, "Everyone has been there and everyone has done great harm." I remember being surprised by his sensitivity, hadn't imagined it in him but evidently was wrong.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward: I think there's a few more articles from Mountain not listed on that site where he's mentioned. Sure I can remember an article about climbing in the Hindu Kush with Dirty Alex & John Porter (probably written by the second) - 'Long necks in the Hindu Kush' comes to mind but something tells me that was about another expedition. One day I must get all my books, etc out of storage & shipped to France.

In reply to Dilys the Dachshund:

Good thread. The articles I have read by him really stick in the mind but are quite hard to come by. There was a good one in Alpinist a few years ago about climbing a low level gully in Nepal. Several well known alpinists have mentioned the following article as inspirational to them:

The Art of Suffering, Mountain 1988, May/June,No 121

I've never managed to track it down. Anyone know if there is copy on the web somewhere that doesn't come up on Google or alternative sources (or sell me an old copy!!)?

In reply to Samu:

Well I certainly have that copy of Mountain and it is a great article. If I had a scanner I would scan and send you a copy (once I found said item)

In reply to nz Cragrat:

If by any chance you live in Christchurch perhaps we could come to an arrangement with a rental fee and I could photocopy it.

In reply to nz Cragrat:

or I'd be more than happy to send you some $ in return for a photocopy.

In reply to Samu:

I am sure we can come to an arrangement...

I live in Methven but...

However after a quick look in the garage today it appears they are stored under a friends house in Lyttelton but I might be able to get to it on Thursday

In reply to Dilys the Dachshund:

My Vertical World by Kukuczka is well worth reading in its own right, and as you'd expect, Kurtyka crops up a fair bit in there as well.

In reply to nz Cragrat:

I've sent you an e-mail

In reply to Dilys the Dachshund: If anyone out there wants a copy of Mountain 121 containing the aforementiond article, let me know. Free!
Colin H

In reply to Colin H:
Yes! I would love to have a copy at my email henrik@luetzen.dk . Thanks!

In reply to Doug:
- 'Long necks in the Hindu Kush' comes to mind but something tells me that was about another expedition.

Yes that was Boardman's 1972 expedition (and amusingly he wrote to Ken to object to the title of the article. Ironically when you read the article it seems fair comment)

In reply to Samu:

Incidentally it is one of my friends on the cover of 121

Old photos (mainly from '70) by Voytek's wife, Ewa: http://irys.um.pabianice.pl/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=ekurtyka