UKC

NEW REVIEW: XT Gloves from Marmot, by Jack Geldard

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 UKC Gear 29 Nov 2008
UKC Editor Jack Geldard slips his hands inside the XT gloves from Marmot:

"They are a mid-weight, do everything type of glove, and they are great. They are perfect for winter rock climbing in the UK (belaying, resting while bouldering etc), and winter hill walking."

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1470
 TobyA 29 Nov 2008
 Jack Geldard 29 Nov 2008
In reply to TobyA: Hi Toby, Yes I thought they'd be good for ice-fall cragging unless it was really, really cold.

I didn't get chance to actually test them myself for that, so your comment is really useful.

I'll add your quote in to the review if that's okay - and a link to that photo as it covers an area I couldn't.

Cheers,

Jack
 HeMa 29 Nov 2008
In reply to UKC Gear:

I also used those as my main ski touring gloves, and worked fine for resorts as well, unless it was freakin' cold.


Marmot did have a different kind of model a season or two back, with the same name (XT)... Good to see they have resurrected the old original version... Might have to stock a few pair, since I lost mine (in Eberg, me thinks) and before Marmot decides to change the model again...
 robdan 29 Nov 2008
In reply to TobyA: I'm looking to buy a pair of new gloves for ice climbing in Rjukan in Feb. Any idea if they'll be warm enough for those conditions ?
 HeMa 29 Nov 2008
In reply to robdan:

Might be, or they might not.

Depends on what kind of year they are having and how easily your hands get cold...


They will however work well as the action layer, as long as you have a pair of warm (big) mitts to be put over the gloves for belaying etc.
 robdan 29 Nov 2008
In reply to HeMa: Well they'll go on the christmas list then. cheers
 TobyA 30 Nov 2008
In reply to robdan: I'll ask my friend to comment on this thread if has chance as he's the one with the gloves! But he has used them lots and lots of ice climbing and Finnish conditions probably aren't so different from Rjukan. Like HeMa said having a glove system with you is the best bet - some for climbing, something warmer for belays, some old ones for the approach as they might get covered in snow etc.
 adamsky 01 Dec 2008
In reply to UKC Gear:
Just bought a pair for mixed and ice-falls based on this review and the recommendation from a mate who has been using a pair for a couple of years and says their awesome.

 smac 01 Dec 2008
In reply to UKC Gear: I'm on to my second pair after 2-3 years of use out of the first. I've used them for scottish winter ice and mixed in all conditions, although sometimes with belay gloves as a back on proper cold days. They are perfect for ice cragging, (used in Norway extensively), as they have good feel and dexterity for tools and gear. They have also been used for general hill bashing, snowboarding, and a Bergen winter cycle commute.
They are by far the best gloves i have owned!
 robdan 01 Dec 2008
In reply to TobyA: Cheers fellas appreciate the lowdown.
 Jody 03 Dec 2008
In reply to UKC Gear:

As TobyA mentioned I used them for two winter seasons in Finland. The main strengthens were there grippyness and dexterity. While I used them down to -15, the short wrist cover meant I had to used them in conjunction with long sleeves and thumb hole on an under fleece.

At 50€ they were great value for money especailly since if I hadnt sometimes also worn them in the summer(as a cleaning glove) they would had probably lasted another winter.

Cheers,

Jody
 Heike 03 Dec 2008
In reply to Jody:
My climbing partner has used these for the last 2 and a bit winters and thinks they are great for leading - easy to fiddle gear in with, and very sticky. That has included Scottish mixed, continental ice and arctic Greenland. However he does have to use mitts for belaying.

They are not that waterproof so they tend to get pretty wet after a typical Scottish day out, but on the other hand they tend to start self-drying once his hands warm up.

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